I’ve been playing with ambient light for my TV for a while now, as you can see in the “Ambient TV lighting with XBMC Boblight, OpenElec and WS2811/WS2812 LEDs“, to make colorful lights (LEDs) light up matching the video you’re seeing on your TV.
The downside of that project is that it only works for a dedicated HTPC running for example Kodi (XBMC).
But what if I’d like to see this with video from my XBox 360, XBox One, Wii, or … Blu-ray player or cable box?
Besides the fact that we need to grab this video, and all it’s technical complications, we will be running into a copy protection issue called HDCP, a HDMI feature nobody really asked for.
Please note that I’m not writing this article to promote pirating content! This article is solely aimed at using non-HDCP compliant equipment with equipment that seems to require HDCP. So I’m looking at older HDMI LCD/LED/Plasma TV’s, HDMI Projectors, Game Recording (PS3), taking screenshots for documentation and/or articles, and of course my own little project to generate ambient light behind my TV! Please keep this in mind.
HDCP is a copy protection that was added to the HDMI standard, at a later time, by Intel.
The first HDMI versions did not include HDCP, but most modern HDMI capable devices support it.
The content, or content source (where the “output” comes from), determines if HDCP is needed, and is/was intended to prevent content to be displayed or recorded by unauthorized devices. See it as the digital counter part of MacroVision as was used with analog video way back in the day.
HDCP uses authorization and encryption – it verifies (authenticate) the receiving party (Destination or “input”) – i.e. The video sources asks for the secret code from the destination device, before it sends content, so the receiving party is authorized and can decrypt. Even though the master key for decryption has been compromised since 2010 and some smart folks assembled a device for demonstration purposes, HDCP is still in full use. Just like those idiotic region codes of DVD’s and BluRay’s. Non compliant devices, an old (HDMI) TV for example, will simply display a message that the content cannot be displayed or will display a blank screen.
Naturally a “HDCP remover” or “HDCP Stripper” device is not readily available to the public … or is it?
CAUTION: This article is not intended to promote illegal copying and/or piracy!
I cannot emphasize this enough! This article was not written with illegal copying, ripping or to promote piracy.
The sole purpose is to be able to use non-HDCP compliant equipment with HDCP video sources.
This can be you old TV or projector, or trying to record game playing (PS3), making screenshots, or … my little ambient light project.
Bypassing HDCP with the intend to copy/pirate content is MOST CERTAINLY ILLEGAL in most countries!
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Methods to Remove HDCP from HDMI
Convert to Analog
One of the methods used, yet sometimes complicated and expensive, is by converting the signal for example to VGA, Component or Composite video. This conversion to an analog signal will result in a degraded picture quality, but the result might not be too bad.
Note that some converters do honor HDCP and might not work either.
For my Ambient Light project I’ve considered using this, since I only need a low resolution representation of the video – Ideally I’d prefer a video output of say 160 x 90 pixels 
. But more about that once I’ve finished that project.
p.s. One user (Brett) reported this HDMI-to-Component to work. Here is the Amazon link!
Select a Different (Analog) Video Output
Some devices, like the PlayStation 3 for example, have Component (good for 1080p if your TV supports it!), S-Video or Composite video output as well. HDCP does not support analog connections and you should be able to view the video just fine on non-HDCP devices. The video quality may however be of a lower quality (Component Video is recommended – see also “Connect your PC to TV“) as well.
Firmware Setting
Some devices, like a PlayStation 4 console, offer the option to disable HDCP. The downside can be that some apps, which require HDCP, will not work when HDCP is disabled.
For more details “PlayStation 4 HDCP toggle must be off to record games, on to watch video apps“.
Note that quite a lot of devices, like the XBox One, XBox 360 and for example the Amazon Fire TV, dynamically set HDCP on their HDMI ports. This means that for example the navigation menu of the Amazon Fire TV and certain non-HDCP apps will work just fine. However, as soon as you play HDCP content (Amazon Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc), your screen will turn black.
The way to go is a cheap HDMI Splitter, if you find the right one
Another, much easier and cheaper method, is the use of a HDMI splitter.
A splitter in essence makes it possible to (for example) connect 2 TV’s to one HDMI source, not designed to strip the HDCP, but some actually do exactly that. The example below illustrates a 1×2 splitter.
HDMI Splitter – On source, Two (or more) Destinations
Some HDMI splitters (I have seen 1×2 and 1×4 splitters) by accident strip the HDCP encryption, and the funny part is that these are typically very cheap splitters. However, keep in mind: there is absolutely no guarantee that every HDMI splitter strips HDCP. Even the ones listed below might or might not do the trick.
Key with these splitters seems to be that they support up to HDMI 1.3b, which does not need to be a big problem unless you’re planning on blasting 4K or even 8K video over the HDMI cable. Another commonality seems to be that they appear cheap China products.
Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.
HDMI Splitters that have been reported to strip HDCP
These are NOT guaranteed to work!
Manufacturers change hardware all the time, so this “feature” might not work with newer models or revisions! HDMI 1.4 (and newer) devices will most likely not work! I highly recommend, definitely at Amazon, to read the most recent customer comments carefully!
Some splitters need to have the HDMI cables connected BEFORE you power them on!
Below a list with splitters that have been reported to actually strip HDCP.
Reported working 4K/HDMI2.2 splitter:
If you find other models that work, or find out that a model is no longer supporting this, then please report this in the comments.
Testing HDCP removal
The way I tested my setup, is by using a non-HDCP device as the destination device, and my Amazon Fire TV playing Netflix or Amazon Video content. Finding such a device shouldn’t be a problem, otherwise you’d probably not be reading this article.
For those with a PlayStation 3 – it seems that the PS3 always has HDCP enabled, unless you have a developer device (unlikely), so that or a BluRay player would work well as a source too. For other devices, the general rule is that HDCP will be enabled when copyrighted content (eg. a movie) is being played.
First test the “failing” setup …
In my case I used a device to record game playing, specifically the Elgato Game Capture HD game capture device (homepage), which shows a black screen when playing HDCP content or an error message, as demonstrated below.
HDCP Error when using the Elgato Game Capture HD
Without the splitter, your video output (Amazon Fire TV in this example, when doing playback of content HDCP) might show a message like this:
HDCP Error Message (Amazon Fire TV)
Then test the setup with a HDMI splitter …
After installing the splitter, the HDCP seems to be stripped and video recording or making screenshots works just fine.
Caution …
I’d like to point out, again, that this method:
- Might or might not work with the HDMI splitter of your choosing, even the ones listed above, …
- Do not use this method to copy and/or pirate copyrighted content! It is ILLEGAL in most countries, …
- This method is solely written with the intend to make screenshots and/or use non-HDCP compliant equipment.
With Splitter the Elgato Game Capture HD works just fine …
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Other Resources
I didn’t think of all of this myself, just collected what I had learned and compiled if for Tweaking4All visitors.
Some of the information I did get from the following resources to remove HDCP from HDMI:
Comments
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Now I’m really looking forward to which device you’re gonna hook up for that universal ambilight. The fact that I currently need a USB port to connect my Karatelight to is what keeps me from using FireTV as my primary player. Also, ambilight for my trusty old PS3 would be cool.
Tim
Well, it seems the way to go is using one of these splitters, one output to the TV, and the other one to a HDMI2AV converter (convert HDMI to Analog video). The analog video then goes to a cheap $16 USB Video grabber which is compatible with OpenElec on Raspberry Pi.
I thought I had to reinvent the wheel here, but it seems already available at LightBerry.eu …
Anyhow, I have all my HDMI devices connected to a Yamaha receiver, which has one HDMI out for the TV … so I’ll tap off the feed there and all my devices should work, including OpenElec running on my Raspberry Pi (I just got the model 2).
Less challenging than expected, it seems, but I’m sure there will be some challenges left … ie. use my WS2812 LEDs instead of the WS2801 LEDs used in the LightBerry setup, or see if I can use an old Raspberry Pi model A for just this task. So I do expect to write an article soon …
hans
I tried to do the same setup:
PS4 is connected to my AV Receiver, and I was thinking to use a splitter and grabber to connect to my AV Receiver HDMI out. It works BUT I lost my ARC-capabilities of the HDMI port. I don’t know why but I read that splitting the HDMI-out from a receiver could give problems. I also tried connecting the Raspberry Pi to my Yamaha Receiver, but I couldn’t controle Raspberry Pi anymore with my TV-remote…
ray
Thanks for the heads-up Ray!
I did not think of that … so I’ll have to decide: ARC functionality or Ambi-light … hmm …
OK, so I’ll admit that I had to do some Google work on this one …
ARC (Audio Return Channel) was introduced with HDMI 1.4, which would mean that with this splitter (HDMI 1.3!) you’d loose ARC … and I only use ARC for the Audio when using the in the TV build receiver (= rarely). However, this is independent of the remote functionality.
I have been wondering too, if 2 devices would send Audio back over ARC, then what should our receiver do with this?
At least I’m aware now that I might loose the Return Audio.
CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) however is why your remote isn’t working that way anymore.
HDMI 1.3 should support this, but I can imagine that a “splitter” can cause issues here … I’m just guessing that the complication can be found in who controls what …
Unfortunately, this (CEC) didn’t work on my setup to begin with – so instead I use a “Smart Powerstrip“. Once the TV goes on, my Yamaha receiver and media devices switch on automatically as well.
hans
So this IS the BEST and cheapest solution to stripping HDCP from an HDMI source. It works everytime!
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011303&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2
Willy
Thanks Willy for posting this one!
Wow, nice and compact … and cheap!
Are there any other users who can confirm this?
hans
i took a gamble on one of these things and it’s not stripping HDCP for me, so to anybody else who’s looking for a cheap solution to this problem, keep that in mind!
bb!
Hi BB!
Thanks for posting your findings here!!
Since I do not have one of these, I was just wondering:
Did you try HDCP stripping while (for example) one port had a HDCP compliant device connected? I have seen and heard about devices that actually require a valid HDCP device on one port for it to work.
hans
Just ordered one. Their ad specifically states it strips the signal. I’ll reply again after recieving the item and testing.
FriedmanFr
Hi FriedmanFr!
Cool, well let us know if it works and please post the link!
hans
I just bought one of these on the advice here and can confirm it does not strip HDCP. I have a working setup with an old OREI HD-102 (the new ones also don’t work and look identical) and with the old OREI in place I can record on my game recorder but swap out that one component for this one and it no longer records. Also does not matter whether second device attached or which output port is used. So ,,, do not buy this for HDCP removal. (Also don’t buy recent stock of OREI HD-102 :-/ )
GTX
Thanks GTX for the feedback! This is excellent information.
So for other readers: Stay away from the OREI HD-102 HDMI splitters.
hans
Many sellers on ebay say their splitter will do HDCP but most will not so best is to hope someone here will report a good working splitter and where it was bought from. I have 2 splitters that work bought from Amazon. I have posted in an earlier post here. Well I decided to buy another and does not work. I opened a working one and a non working one the newer one had another on board chip and both were advertised as 1.3version. When opened the pc board on new said 1.4 version so most sellers are not telling the truth about stripping the HDCP. I have like a said an earlier post with the models. I’m sure its a view-HD >VHD-1X2MN3D. Its the newer one and I sent back. Both have same model # and Look the same but If you open up the pc boards will have the version of the splitter.
Someone has to of bought one recently and has worked. Hope they will report it here.
Mine is a simple setup Cable box> to in of splitter>1 port to tv HDMI 1> 2nd port to a an Aver Media 310 HD recorder and the recordings are great recording HD material> and to TV HDMI 2 so I can bypass going to the recorder. Also have IPTV Satellite setup and can record that also with the Aver Media 310. All recording are to an external 4TB hard drive. I have quite a library some recorded and some downloaded and moved to the 4TB HD.
Also have a Cable box dvr that can record 5 channels at same time. But have to record to the Aver Media 310 in real time to have my own recording. That is where the splitter comes into play recording live tv or DVR recording.
I have given up looking for a splitter as I have 2 and 1 that I got refunded and was told to keep the splitter.
Good luck for the HDCP hunt if I see anything I will report here.
dss56/Bob
dss56
Thank you so very much. I used the ViewHD with HDMI version 1.3b and it worked without a hitch. My working setup is Roku 3 -> ViewHD -> Yamaha HTR 3063 -> BenQ SH 910. The ViewHD is plugged into HDMI 1 and the BenQ is plugged into HDMI Out, which is the HDMI monitor port.
Prior to this this setup, Roku 3 -> Yamaha -> BenQ produced sound without picture and Roku 3 -> BenQ -> audio out to Yamaha audio, produced picture with no sound and the HDCP error. It also resulted in significant hair loss.
I’m happy now and not quite bald.
Joey
Awesome Joey!
Glad to hear there is still some hair left
…
Which ViewHD did you use? Do you have a link? Or is it the one listed in the article?
hans
I can confirm the “ViewHD 1×2 HDMI Splitter v1.3b One Input to Two Output” eBay ~$20 works with Roku-4 and a non-HDCP 1080p panel. The damn Roku-4 will need an upstream HDCP compliant device no matter what content you play from it (even home movies).
Thanks for guiding us to a solution.
(Note: Same model at Amazon.com and Amazon.de.)
HDCPStripper
Thanks HDCPStripper!
Good news to get yet another confirmation of a splitter that does HDCP stripping.
Can’t wait until we find one that supports HDCP 2.x (4K video and such).
Thanks for posting!
hans
Hi, has anyone any experience with getting a Panasonic hard drive recorder such as model hwt130 working through a splitter?. It seems to switch off its hdmi output as soon as any form of splitter is connected, yet a similar (except for blue ray drive)Panasonic model pwt420 works via a splitter. Wonder if Panasonic have blocked it on the slightly newer hwt130 if so can it be over ridden?
Dp
I have no experience with the HWT130 and I’d carefully assume it to be a lot of work for Panasonic to block all “known” splitters.
Then again, you splitter may be using a banned ID for DHCP, which may prevent it from working? I’m just guessing here.
hans
The ViewHD 2 from the list, available on Amazon, works perfectly, as of September 2021.
Paul Wilson
Thanks for sharing Paul! Awesome!
Hans
With further use, I’m getting perplexing results with 5.1 content. With one output cable going to a monitor and the other going to an Ultrastudio Recorder 3G, *depending on which HDMI cable is connected to which output port on this device*, I get either what appears to be down-mixed stereo going to both the monitor and my Mac, or I get what appears to be 5.1 audio going to both, *minus the dialogue channel*.
I’ve tried a wide range of reconfigurations of the cables and such, but the result is consistent and truly weird.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Paul Wilson
A random thought: connect HDMI 1 output to the recorder. If that doesn’t make a difference: disconnect the monitor? I’m just guessing here, since I haven’t played with this kind of setup.
Hans
I’ve tried disconnecting the monitor. No success.
Running the HDMI cable through output 1 is what creates the weird situation of 5.1 minus the dialogue (presumably the center channel). Running it out of output 2, I get what appears to be downmixed stereo that includes the dialogue. It doesn’t matter, in either case, whether the other cable is connected to the monitor. When it is, the monitor appears to get the same either stereo or incomplete 5.1 audio signal. It’s really odd.
Paul Wilson
I figured it out. The device is working correctly.
I was partially wrong in stating that, if I plugged in only one cable, I continued to get either stereo or incomplete 5.1. My monitor is the oddball, giving me static through on side and stereo through the other. That I can work around. No problem. The output to the Ultrastudio Recorder 3G that connects to my Mac delivers 5.1 through both sides.
The reason I wasn’t hearing the dialogue finally became clear. The software I’m using that captures video, Media Express, doesn’t successfully enable downsampling of 5.1 to stereo, such that my stereo speakers coming out of the computer headphone jack weren’t receiving the center channel. If I play the resultant saved file, using Quicktime, QT + my Mac successfully combines the center channel, and I hear dialogue through the stereo speaker. The key is that the file contains everything, and would play fine through my home AV setup.
So, again, the splitter works just fine, so long as you don’t use competing HDMI handshakes.
Paul Wilson
Awesome! Well, good to hear it wasn’t the splitter and good to hear you found what is causing the problem.
Thanks for sharing!
Hans
Question. I am trying to take my hdmi tv and my hauppauge recorder and record thru my Roku box. Will this hdmi splitter work in taking off the HDCP for recording purposes?
midnight
Considering that these splitters tend to change over time, there is no guarantee. Manufacturers do change their specs occasionally and officially these splitters were of course never intended to be HDCP strippers. That’s kinda why we are trying here to share experiences.
However having said that: it is very likely, oh and don’t forget: Amazon and Ali-Express are good sources for these splitters as well.
hans
Any idea how fast that will be? Sounds like there will be a lag between colors on TV and ambilight colors.
Tim
Based on the video’s (for example this one on YouTube), I’d say it works pretty good and the delay is negligible … at least for me it is.
Specially considering the split, strip, convert, analyze and LED steps …
hans
Thank you for the post. I have a videowall 3×2 when i use it with a PC is working perfect in the six LG monitors. The problem is when i connect the videowall with a playstation or a bluray player. When i do that is not showing images in the six monitors its only showing in one. One technician said its problem with HDCP. What do you recommend to see movies in the videowall with a bluray player or a playstation? Thank you very much.
hernan
Hi Hernan,
I have never worked with video wall controllers, but I cannot confirm that HDCP would be the issue – although, you can test this notion easily with the HDMI splitters I mention in this article, and they are not that expensive either.
I assume a video wall controller splits the video feed into sections to the connected monitors. So the video is decoded (HDCP removed) before it can do that. Maybe yours defaults to one specific output when it can’t “decode”?
Again, I’m no expert when it comes to video wall controllers, but the ones I have found proudly announce HDCP support. Which brand/model do you have?
hans
[…] Tweaking4All.com – How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal …: “” […]
[…] Here is a good read and includes several possible HDCP strippers/splitters … Tweaking4All.com – How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal … […]
Interesting! The things they are doing now a days to fight for their intellectual property….dang hollywood….you going hungry?? Are you kids getting a well education?? And enough to eat?? Maybe we need to replace the leather seats or completely redecorate your mansion?? What’s that…. and your still rich??… wow…. ok well I’m dead broke. but I have intellectual ummm.. property too….piece.
Henrx
Couldn’t agree more … spending millions on copy protection and so called CopyrightTrolls.
Dont’ get me wrong; I understand the need for protection of intellectual property up to a point, but sometimes it simply makes normal use stupid and/or impossible.
Case and point DVD/BluRay region codes, crippling older HDMI equipment, buying a movie but not being allowed to view it on all your devices (ie. cellphone/tablet), etc.
Anyhow, this article was not written to circumvent copy protection and promote piracy, but to be able to use something like Boblight or and older HDMI projector – things to enjoy watching movies one has purchased legally.
hans
Just wondering if there are any options in order to put a splitter in a vehicle at all ??
I have an Alpine Stereo now that are hooked up to 2 x DVD Headrests but I can’t get the HDMI signal through to the headrests, thinking it’s almost certainly a HDCP problem, so wanted to put in a splitter.
However they all seem to be mains powered, so I’m looking for a fix around this or a HDMI splitter that is USB powered, any suggestions guys pleeeeeease !!??
Cheers
BarnsyBDC
Hi BarnsyBDC,
The splitter that I have uses a 5V, 1A power brick.
This would be too much for regular a USB port, but definitely workable for one of those in-car USB chargers for your cellphone that can be bought for cheap.
p.s. when you look at the pictures of the one I got from Amazon (2nd pic) then you’ll see the round 5V connector.
hans
Thanks Hans. There is actually a USB port coming off the alpine deck as well which is there for fast smart phone charging / connectivity so I am hopeful this will have enough oomph to power a HDMI splitter powered by USB :) thanks again for your input I appreciate it
BarnsyBDC
You’re welcome!
hans
Hi again Hans
So I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?
ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster ;)
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
FWIW,
I ordered three items from the list above:
Robert
Thanks Robert for reporting your findings … did the 3rd one work?
I’m a little disappointed to hear the CKITZE GB-520 fail – works just fine with mine.
Do you have any specific model number/serial or other indicator so we can compare it with mine?
For example: I noticed a few models that silently had update from HDMI 1.3 to 1.4, where the 1.4 models fail stripping HDCP.
hans
Hans (solo :-)
I initiated a return with eBay for the 3rd one before it was actually shipped by the vendor (I received the other two items and the shipping company still didn’t have the package from the eBay seller). I don’t know if they’ll ship it to me anyway and make me ship it back to them. If they do, I’ll test it before doing so. FWIW, the 3rd item was the least expensive option by far (not $20 but $11.40 per unit).
Re: the 2nd item, the CKITZE GB-520, they manufacturer may have updated the firmware but I don’t see anything that would help identify the ones I received vs the one you tested.
The 1st item, ViewHD, worked great.
– Robert
Robert
Thanks again Robert – I’ll update the article to reflect the new info.
hans
Hans,
As I suspected, the vendor did not cancel the order so I was able to test the third item and it works. The housing is plastic vs metal but it can be powered via a USB port which is nice. In summary, item’s 1 and 3 worked but item 2 did not. That’s all I have for now.
– Robert
Robert
Awesome Robert!
Thanks for the info!
hans
Hi Robert
I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this first item you purchased that worked for you…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?
ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster ;)
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
Don’t forget to double check out + and – too … usually the + is the center “hole” of the connector, but some manufacturer do it the other way around (+ outside, – inside).
hans
There are dozens of socket/pin sizes. That being said, it looks like 5.5mm x 2.1mm as you surmised. To be sure, you can always build the cable using the wall wart that’s included with the unit and a USB cable that passes power by connecting power & ground to power & ground. The wall wort output says 5v 1amp. I haven’t looked into the power output of the various USB standards. I hope this helps.
Robert
I’d probably do the same – use the wire that is connected to the power brick.
Use a multimeter to test which of the 2 wires is +.
That said: if you have a USB connector that allows you to charge cellphones (which often provide 1A or more, with 5V), then you should probably be fine.
hans
Hi again Robert
I read that the third item you tested worked fine and could be powered by USB, which is what I am after.
Any chance you could post in the link as to where you purchased it from so I can order one for myself?
Would be truly appreciated.
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
Hello, I am trying to connect my Xfinity X1 cable box which only has an HDMI out port through my Hauppauge HDPVR2 1512 with component cables (because of the encryption) to my TV then to to my computer to record a ballgame. I did this in the past with my old Xfinity cable box that had component cable out ports. I found a Portta video converter that has an HDMI in port to component out ports and was wondering if anyone knows if it will work to get the game copied to my computer. Thanks.
JeffG
Hi Jeff,
I’m not familiar with a Portta Video converter, but your problem is most likely HDMI HDCP protection on the HDMI out of your Cable Box.
I don’t know if Portta Video Converter will strip the HDCP. However, if you add one of the HDMI splitters between your Cable Box and your video converter (which converts HDMI to component), then theoretically, you should be good to go.
So HDMI out of Cable Box goes to splitter, one output of the Splitter to your TV (of your cable box has only one HDMI out), and the other output of the splitter to your HDMI-to-Component converter. The Component of your HDMI-to-Component converter to your Hauppauge, and your Hauppauge to your TV. … wow that were a lot of words haha … hope this clears it up …
hans
Thanks Hans, I appreciate the help… I do not have the Portta video converter yet but I think I will order one to see if that works. It sounds like I need to get an HDMI splitter as well since the cable box only has 1 HDMI output.
JeffG
Hi Jeff,
I’m not sure how expensive a Portta Video Converter is, but … it might be easier to get a splitter (as listed above), and combine it with a Elgato GameCapture HD.
The setup would be easy:
Cable Box HDMI -> Elgato -> Computer (suitable for Windows, Mac).
Pretty simple setup and works really well and captures in great quality.
You wouldn’t loose quality by converting either.
hans
Thanks again Hans, I already purchased a splitter and a video converter device for $27 so if that doesn’t work I’m not out much, just waiting on them to arrive in the mail… do you know if the Elgato Game Capture Device (which looks to only have HDMI ports, 1 in & 1 out) could be used as the pass through device to record live tv to my computer? That is what I used the Hauppauge PVR for until I got the xfinity X1 cable box that only has the 1 HDMI out port. If the Elgato does that I might get it but I was under the impression that the HDCP protection would not allow you to record programming through HDMI cables like you could through Component Cables.
JeffG
Hi Jeff!
Yes, the Elgato Game CaptureHD is a pass-through device, so you can use it to do live recordings from your TV/Cable box. In it’s basic setup, it basically “sits” between your cable box and your TV (for example). The USB cable then goes to your PC so you can record the video on your PC with the provided software of Elgato.
This works great for a HDMI signal that does not have HDCP protection.
Since the Elgato cannot record HDCP protected HDMI signal, one of these cheap splitters is needed to remove the HDCP protection before it gets to the Elgato.
So the splitter will actually take the HDCP protected HDMI input, and then output that same signal minus the HDCP protection on both splitter HDMI outputs. This way the Elgato can actually read the signal.
That setup would look something like this:
Cable box –> HDMI Splitter (HDCP stripper) –> Elgato –> TV
with a USB cable coming from the Elgato, which goes to your PC.
You could of course also connect the TV straight to the splitter instead of the HDMI output of the Elgato.
hans
Hi there,
Thanks for sharing this great article; it has educated an otherwise tech-ignorant Luddite!
I wanted to ask if you know anyway to adapt a HDCP compliant splitter so that it will strip HDCP protocol? I have an Aten VS184 which is being rather uncooperative in trying to split my digital TV box between my TV and a projector, so before I go buy another non-HDCP splitter, I wondered if I could encourage the Aten to play ball?!
Any assistance much appreciated!
Thanks
Steve
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thank you very much for the compliment, it’s very much appreciated!
As for modifying an existing non-HDCP-stripping HDMI splitter … ehm I do not think that would be an easy task.
I have read somewhere, so this might not be 100% true, that the cheap splitters that do strip HDCP, actually use a chip that belongs in a TV, and therefor is identified as a “compliant” device, allowing to strip HDCP. If that is the fact, then the chip in your splitter would be the wrong one. Probably easier and more feasible to buy one of those cheap ones that do work.
hans
Thanks again Hans, When I receive the splitter and video converter I’ll let you know how well it works with the Hauppauge PVR pass through device.
JeffG
Sounds good
hans
Hans, I received the HD video converter box in the mail and it worked. I was able to get a test program recorded from my cable box to my computer.
How it looks… HDMI cable out of the Cable box and into the HD video converter box, then component cables out of the HD converter and into the Hauppauge PVR and HDMI cable from the Hauppauge PVR to the TV, then USB cable from the Hauppauge PVR to PC. I actually did not need the extra HDMI splitter, but now I have one in case I ever need one.
Simple really haha. Thanks again for your help.
JeffG
Awesome Jeff!
Glad you got it to work
…
hans
Hey Guys,
Does anyone have any experience with any of the 1 x 4 splitters? I have gone thru several different types of the 1 x 2 splitters with limited success. I have gotten the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 powered HDMI Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3D) to work (Mac Mini output to Splitter : Output 1 to TV and Output 2 to Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record). Now home, I hook the splitter up to the HDMI output of my Onkyo receiver (that has various HDMI inputs – Bluray, Apple TV, cable box) send Output 1 to the TV and Output 2 to the LGP. LGP no longer records.
Does the splitter need to be between the device (Bluray, AppleTV, Cable Box) before outputting to the reciever which outputs to the TV? What are the setups that others are using when a stereo receiver is in the mix?
I have an HDMI to component converter that feeds a Blackmagic H.264 recorder, and this works fine except the resulting MP4 is skewed to the left resulting in a slight loss of picture and vertical black line on the right side of the file. There’s no adjustment for this and I assume it is partially due to the HDCP. Trying to make this a straight HDMI feed. The LGP is just an easier setup because it can be used as standalone whereas the Blackmagic H.264 is dependent on a secondary computer.
Thank you for any help/suggestions.
Trev
Trevor
Hi Trev,
I have no experience with 1×4 splitters, but good experience with 1×2 splitters (or I just got very lucky).
There are a few things I’ve read while researching the topic;
1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.
I’m guessing the splitter will use the first device to swap ID’s and such.
Not sure if the 2nd device can be connected at startup of the source device, or should be connected after things on the first output are up and running.
2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.
I have no clue how problematic that could be with 1.4 or newer HDMI devices. Although I cannot imagine that all 1.4+ devices would cripple pre-1.4 devices, can you imagine how many TV’s would need to be tossed?
3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.
In those cases your setup should just work … I’d assume.
Something I’d try first is connecting a TV instead of the LGP, just to see if there is anything to begin with.
You did bring an interesting suggestion though; putting the splitter between source and your Onkyo,
Worth a test I would say, and it would s*ck if this would become the way to work.
hans
Hello Hans!
Thank you for your quick reply. I guess what I need to know, what are guys, that got this to work, doing with multiple devices (Cable Box. FireTV, AppleTV, Bluray, Game Console). Do they put a single splitter after every device? Send all devices into an HDMI switch (Multiple Inputs to 1 HDMI Output) and then to the 1×2 Splitter? Or like me, all devices into a receiver with an HDMI output (in my case the Onkyo has 2 HDMI outputs).
My original setup was – devices HDMIs to Onkyo receiver. Onkyo main HDMI output to TV. Onkyo sub HDMI to HDMI to Component Converter. Component Converter to Blackmagic H.264 recorder (hooked to a Mac Mini running Blackmagic software for recording). This works great, except for the slightly misaligned picture. If I hook up the ElGato EyeTV HD with component inputs- no signal is seen coming from the Component Converter.
So, in place of the the HDMI to Component Converter I added the Splitter. Output 1 to the TV, Output 2 to the LGP. No dice. Swapped the Outputs on the Switcher. Still nothing. Tested the LGP and it is passing the signal thru itself to the TV, just no go on the record side. The reasons I’m trying to use the LGP – 1) Video straight thru via HDMI and 2) using the LGP as a standalone unit thus freeing up my Mac Mini for other uses.
I’ve tried a Sewell, a no name splitter, and the ViewHD, all are 1×2 splitters. So if there is anyone that has had any luck using the 1×4 splitter, I would be greatful to find out which one works and a link to where it can be bought.
To your responses:
1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.
Yes, I did make sure that the TV was on the first output. Then tried the second output.
2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.
I have pretty much made sure not to do any firmware upgrades on the devices to avoid HDMI Standard 1.4. But it wouldn’t surprise me if the manufacturers wanted us to all invest in new TVs. HD 1080p was supposed to be enough but now they are pushing 4K sets on us. Great
3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.
Yes, that seemed to be the case. I have a feeling that I’m just too late to the game getting any of the early splitters that work this way.
I hope that anyone who has recently purchased a 1×2 or 1×4 Splitter and had it work in the way we’ve been talking about, will add to this discussion. A new list of working splitters, with model numbers, date aquired, date of actual HDCP decryption and links to where the splitter was bought would be fantastic.
In all my web searches, this has been the best sight with any kind of helpful information in this issue. Highest of praise to the moderators!!
I’m heading to my parents house for the week, so I’m done trying anything else for the day. When I get back I will try putting the splitter directly after the device before going thru the Onkyo and get back with the results. Again, thank you Hans for your valued input!
Trevor
Hi Trevor,
First of all; thanks for the compliments!
I would expect that most would feed all HDMI’s to their receiver, and have the output of the receiver connected to the splitter. From there go to TV and recorder (or what I’m planning to do: to an AmbiLight/Boblight setup). I haven’t had much of a chance to test this though.
So basically your old setup, with the splitter on your HDMI main output (instead of the the sub). Could it be that the sub output is actually causing the issue? Did you try that?
As for TV’s, did you see they already started pushing 8K TV’s?
I don’t think I’ll be upgrading my 1080p TV anytime soon haha. Who knows; by the time it’s dying we might be looking at 4 more generations haha.
hans
To anyone having issues with the black screen for fire tv updates, I’ve tried several splitters. The only one that has removed hdcp was KanexPro SP-HD1X24K 4K HDMI 2-Port Splitter. Got it at my local Fry’s for about 30 bucks. Removes hdcp.
milo
Thanks Milo for posting the link for a working HDMI splitter/DHCP stripper …
hans
Can you please post which model it is? The one at the link says it’s HDMI 1.4 that supports up to 4k so I’m guessing it was updated recently? Thanks. Am looking for a working splitter.. Seems like I’m just a couple months or so too late apparently..
dominick_7
I have the suspicion that the HDMI 1.4 / 4K models are indeed the models that do NOT work for HDCP stripping.
You could also look at AliExpress – they shamelessly mention their splitters to strip HDPC, I guess regulations are a little different there
I have done some shopping there in the past and it always has been a good experience. Downside is that shipping usually takes about 2 weeks.
hans
Thanks for the reply. Yea think you’re likely right. The problem is even the ones that are listed as 1.3 if they’re 1.3b Ive seen those can also be compatible with 1.4.
That site for some reason confuses me. Do you happen to see any that look promising you could share please? For some reason everything on it looks shady to me for some reason lol. Probably just not familiar enough with it to know what to look for. Haha probably.
Cool, I can wait… I guess.. have the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 sitting there waiting to be used as of yesterday.
dominick_7
Yeah AliExpress has a reputation when it comes to confusing customers – very true!
Contradicting statements (advertise HDMI 1.4, but listing 1.3b), poor translations from Chinese (I guess), and incomplete info (HDCP stripper in the title, but nowhere to be found in the text).
What I’d do:
– look for one that actually states “HDCP Stripper” in the title and in the body (text)
– look at reviews/comments, see if anyone confirms that it actually strips HDCP
– contact the seller an ask if it’s REALLY stripping HDCP (you’ll find that option, on the left, just under the “main” picture, under the heading “Sold By”)
AliExpress has buyer protection and in my experience the sellers are pretty eager to make sure you’re not complaining about them. So if you order one (for example this one – $11 with free shipping) you at least have reasons for them to correct the situation if the splitter is not doing HDPC stripping). So far, and I have ordered stuff with them plenty of times in the past, I have encountered only one instance where I had to complain with the seller. They fixed it pretty quick, and send me a free new item (this was not an HDMI splitter).
hans
So it seems :) Glad I’m not the only one that thinks that. The ones I’ve seen on eBay and I think also Amazon will advertise 1.3c but compatible with 1.4. Yea maybe. Mhmm.
Ended up buying the HDFury Integral because I was the highest quality recordings and a cheapo one from eBay. Bought the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 for me and thinking that I’ll trade in my 1212 for a Gaming Edition one. If the cheap one doesn’t work the AliExpress one looks nice ty for the recommendation.
dominick_7
Do you know the model# and specs? Seems that this one supports 4k so I’m assuming they updated it to where it won’t strip HDCP anymore..
dominick_7
Anyone have positive experience with the following device?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TF9MCXU?psc=1
Brian
That looks like something that could work well … reviews state recording HDCP protected video. Hmm. Interesting.
I have no experience with it though,…
hans
Just saw your post with the link and ordered it from Amazon. Supposed to be here by Saturday so I will let you know how it does. I’ve kinda sidestepped my recording HDMI for the moment to record a bunch of old family VHS tapes. But as soon as the device arrives, I will put it to the test and post my findings here.
Trev
Ok. Crap. Says that the device might not arrive till around Dec 22nd. Ok. I will be getting back to you with a report on this as soon as it arrives…
Trev
I looked at that expected delivery date as well … Somewhere between Dec 22 and Jan 11?
I guess it’s being shipped from China ..?
Let us know how well it works once you’ve received and tested one – I’m curious!!!
hans
Just checked Amazon and yes, it is coming from China. Got the following in an email from the company:
Thank you for your purchase and prompt payment. Your item has been shipped by registered airmail today. The detailed information of shipping as below:
Item title: HDMI-Cloner Box Suite (latest firmware)
Estimated arrival time: 7-10 days
In the process of recording certain video sources, TV may display black screen. Please proceed as follows:
1. Please confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
2. Please press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.
If your TV still displays black screen, please proceed as follows.
1. Power off HDMI-Cloner Box and restart it again.
2. Wait for 10 seconds, and then confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
3. Press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.
There are more step-by-step instructions with both texts and pictures at our website.
HDMI-Cloner Helper is the bonus software of HDMI-Cloner Box Suite, which is a smart program to merge files, trim video, create DVD/Blu-ray movie discs from video file, etc. This is your registration information for the HDMI-Cloner Helper.
Please download the software on ClonerAlliance Inc.’s official website.
So as soon as it arrives, I will put it to the test and report back here. Brian – Thanks again for posting this devices link!
Trev
Awesome! Kind-a sounds like this gadget would record even HDCP protected HDMI, which would be great.
Please post your findings, I might order one as well …
hans
YAY!!! The HDMI Cloner Box arrived! It actually arrived yesterday but just picked it up today. It took just under 2 weeks to get here from China, so I’m thoroughly pleased with that (Amazon estimated a Jan 11th delivery). As soon as I get home from work, I will get it set up and get back with some details.
Trev
Awesome!!!!!!! Can’t wait to hear your findings!!!!
I bet you feel an illness coming up, so you need to go home right away haha
…
hans
4 hours and 43 minutes and counting…
Trev
I sympathize and feel the torture of waiting
…
hans
Hey Guys!
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box. I’ll add on my findings down below.
trev
Hey Guys!
Sorry it has taken awhile to get back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box. Please see the post further down.
Trev
Hello Hans!
I tried putting up a long post, but it is not posting. Any assistance is appreciated. Maybe better to put it in a forum?
trev
The Forum would be great … Maybe under the “Video” section?
I would be interested in finding out why the post failed though …
I’ll be looking forward to your findings though!!!!
hans
A review by Trev of the HMDI Cloner Box:
Note: The HMDI Cloner Box is a $100 standalone HDMI recorder, which appears to [not] strip HDCP.
This is a brief review of the HMDI Cloner Box (referred to as “C-B”) from Cloner Alliance as purchased thru Amazon (link).
Just looked at the link and now thru Christmas they are offering a 16GB USB2 thumb drive instead of the 2GB that I received.
I am continuing to test this on 2 separate Samsung LED HDTVs, so bare with me. With both setups, I have a BluRay player and an Apple TV3 going HDMI into an Onkyo Stereo receiver that has 2 HDMIs out. The primary HDMI output going to the Samsung HDTV, the secondary going to my recording device.
I have 4 different recorders. The Blackmagic H.264 and EyeTV HD, both of which require a software on a computer to record (I’m using a Mac Mini). The Avermedia Live Gamer Portable (using a 64GB SD card after setting the LGP to its highest record setting -8Mbps- using the computer software) and the recently acquired C-B.
With the C-B, I thought it best to hook it directly to the source and TV. The instructions are very simple and straightforward. I hooked up all the necessary cable (power, 2 HDMI cables – 1 In, 1 Out) then plugged in my 64GB USB 3 thumb drive formatted NTFS. According to the manual, NTFS will record a single file while FAT32 will record as many 2GB files as necessary. I then turned everything on, the LED on the HDMI Cloner box settle on blue (1080i/p), and worked my way thru the Apple TV3 to Netflix selected a movie, pressed record and let it go.
Netflix started playing but within 4 seconds paused and gave that familiar warning about HDCP.
I decided to try the trailers app instead and they seemed to play ok so I tried recording Superman vs Batman. The C-B flashed that it was recording, when the trailer finished, I hit the rec/stop button, the C-B flashed a few times showing it was finishing its write to the USB flash drive. Took the drive to my Mac and there was NO file.
I tried several reformats of the 64GB USB drive and no recorded file after multiple attempts. I then tried the 2GB drive that came with the C-B, and it recorded the trailer perfectly. I then tried Netflix with the 2GB drive and still no go due to HDCP non compliance in the system.
I then got my 32GB USB 3 thumb drive, formatted it NTFS, tried a movie trailer record and no file. Reformatted it FAT32, tried recording a trailer and it worked. So this far into it, I have determined that I am not able to record to a drive larger than 32GB – Manual says it can handle 2TB storage. I will try a 2TB hard drive thru a USB 3 dock I have later.
NOTE: The Apple TV3 I am using so far has software version 7.2. The other one I have is running version 6.2. I have tried to keep at least one of them from updating the software since I originally purchased them.
NOTE: Having a flash drive with an LED helps to confirm that the C-B is actually “talking” to it since you have no other way to confirm it is till the end of the recording process. The 64GB drive had none but the 32GB one I have does and helped re-assure that something was happening.
So straight out of the box, I am having no luck in doing a straight record from an Apple TV3 with content that has HDCP.
I decided to try adding a splitter to the mix (specifically the ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D). I have 3 versions of this splitter and chose the oldest one of the three to experiment with first. So the HDMI pathway that I now have hooked up is Apple TV3 to ViewHD – Output 1 to HDMI In 1 on the TV Output 2 to the C-B with HDMI output to HDMI in 2 on the TV. This allows me to verify the signal out of the Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV and to switch over to HDMI 2 on the TV to verify the HDMI feed thru the C-B.
Sorry if some of this sounds repetitive, just trying to make sure my thought process is easy to follow.
Turning everything on, Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV comes up with a clean signal (no flashing, no blips of green digital mess like I get when the second output of the splitter is hooked up to a noncompliant HDCP device) so I switched to Input 2 of the TV and verified that the signal coming thru the C-B was fine.
I navigated thru the Apple TV3 menu to Netflix, chose a movie, started the record on the C-B then started the movie. Two hours and 40 minutes later, I stopped the record, the C-B flashed a few times and stopped. Took the USB drive to my computer and I have a single 11.94GB mp4 file. Checking it, the file is GOOD!! So the 32GB USB3 thumb drive formatted for NTFS worked properly (I thought I had reformatted it FAT32 – guess not). The file is 1080p and looks great – for Netflix. The Avermedia LGP recorder had no such luck in this configuration in place of the C-B.
When I have the time, I will try other splitters I have with this setup, as well as trying the C-P in line after my Onkyo Stereo and various other setups. I will post my findings as soon as possible.
So, my quick findings confirm that the HDMI Cloner Box, in conjunction with the ViewHD splitter, will overcome the HDCP coming from content streamed thru my Apple TV3.
This is great if you want a stand alone recorder. It sucks having to tie up a computer using software and a capture device.
hans
REVISED 10-12-2015: After reading some other posts about the HDMI Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance, I found that this device will ABSOLUTELY record HDCP signals right out of the box!! I took apart and reset all my devices and cabling. The A-TV3 HDMI straight into the C-B, to the Samsung LED HDTV HDMI Input 1. I then avigated to Netflix, picked a movie, on the C-B I pressed and held down the REC/Stop button for 5 seconds to change the LED to green (720p record). I then pressed and held down the REC/Stop button again for 5 seconds to change back to blue LED (1080p record) while selecting play on Netflix. Once the movie started playing I let go of the REC/Stop button and the C-B flashed it was recording. Once the movie was done, I hit REC/Stop on the C-B, let the LED flash a few times before it went solid, removed the 32GB thumb drive. I have a nice mp4 file of The Devil’s Advocate at 2 hours 23 minutes and 50 seconds taking up 10.95GB.
In my post above, I couldn’t get a 64GB thumb drive to work. Upon further online reading, this device seems to be picky about the thumb drive attached. So I figure I’ll get a Lexar media thumb drive since they do not throttle their record rates like Sandisk does.
So, if you are looking at this device to record HDCP content without any extra devices hooked up, it absolutely does!
Trev
Awesome! Glad to hear it DOES work!
Thanks for the update Trev!
hans
So the one shortcoming of the HDMI Cloner Box is that it will not record audio in 5.1, only stereo. Maybe a newer box is in the works that will record 5.1 or hopefully a firmware update.
Trev
That’s a slight bummer … well, I’d assume firmware updates will become available.
Did they provide a link?
hans
Good morning Hans,
Yes, here is the link to their software and firmware updates. http://www.cloner-alliance.com/download.html
The last firmware update was from May of 2015 so I pretty much assume the C-B I have has it already, but it does not address the issue of only stereo records.
Recording on the box has been going great! No need for any splitter. The C-B is super light weight and I really thought I’d been sent an empty box, but everything works as described. I do wish the C-B drew its power thru a USB port instead of a power adapter, like the Avermedia LGP since I have plenty of USB ports available. Would make it a little more portable, not having to pack an extra power supply. It does get really hot while running and I wish they had some more venting other than the vents on the bottom of the box. I have it elevated and a small USB fan blowing on it to help keep it cool. I’m half tempted to buy another one just as a backup.
Again, I can not recommend this recorder enough! Picture quality is great and if they come out with a firmware update to change the audio to a 5.1 record I would give this a full 5 stars on Amazon.
Trev
Yeah, I can imagine that people would like the 5.1 Audio …
As for getting hot; maybe open it up and place a few small heatsinks, and add some holes to the casing?
Small stuff like that getting very hot makes me nervous as well.
Does the power supply state how many Amps it’s pulling? If it gets really hot, I’d assume it will be up there, and a regular USB2 or maybe even USB3 port might not pull it off.
Thank you very much for the review – please let us know when an update appears for the 5.1 Audio.
For now, I’ll stick with my Elgato – I’m not using it for recording movies, just for screenshots or short clips and such for articles. Stripping HDPC for me is mostly so I can make Ambient lighting for my TV for ALL sources.
hans
No word yet from Cloner Alliance on an update, sadly.
Output on the adapter is 5v 2.0A.
I would take the C-B apart and drill holes in the cover if not for the warning about voiding the “waranty”. Once that time period has expired, I will be sure to modify the case and innards.
trev
Yeah 2 A would be too much for a regular USB port.
USB 1.x and 2.0 can handle up from 100 mA to 500 mA (0.1 A … 0.5 A), where as USB 3.0 can handle 150 mA … 900 mA (0.15 A … 0.9 A),… so 2 A would be too much.
A good USB charger for a modern smartphone or tablet could pull it off, depending on brand and model.
As for cooling; you could try and see if you can pop it open …?
Did you try to contact them concerning the firmware?
hans
Yes, I sent them an email this morning, but no response yet.
Yes, I carry a dual USB charger when I travel that would take care of power to the C-B. That would eliminate the need for their wall wart. The AverMedia LGP is a bit heavier than the C-B and basically does the same thing, but is powered thru a USB port. I can’t imagine the internals are much different.
Yes, I might be able to just pop the top. With the fan on it, I feel better about it.
trev
Yeah I suppose most of these devices use the same or similar chipsets.
The do probably use a different chip for talking HDMI (because of the HDCP stripping).
A fan would do the trick! I prefer passive cooling because of the noise, but a fan is always more effective.
My Elgato Game Capture HD is powered through the USB bus as well.
If I recall correctly; if your device tries to pull too much power from a USB, then simply nothing happens. Something with the circuitry of the USB bus of your computer protecting it from overloading. I’m thinking of all the times I’ve hooked up an external 3.5″ disk that pulled too much power haha …
hans
I have successfully used this to strip HDCP from Foxtel (recorded content on an iQ) and been able to record it.
ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D
Me Here
Thanks “Me Here”!
If anyone else has been using this splitter, then please post confirmations here as well … please
hans
Yes, I have 3 of the same model, 1 older than the other 2. The older one I have successfully been able to use between a Mac Mini HDMI to the ViewHD Splitter sending Output 1 to the LCD TV and Output 2 to the Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record from Heche Bee OH streaming. However, I have not been able to get this to work with an AppleTV.
Me Here – So Foxtel is Australian pay television service. So you are coming out an iQ cable box/DVR to the splitter. Nice! What are you using to do the record?
Trev
Thanks again Trev! The more confirmations we get, the better.
I have an (apparently) older version that does work. Maybe they are catching up …
hans
Good afternoon. I purchased the splitter below in hops that it would be able to bypass the HDCP in a Playstation TV device.
ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter
While using it (In collaboration with my elgato), it does not rip the HDCP from it. Using my other devices connected to it (A PS4 (With the HDCP Enabled option turned OFF) and a Wii U System) raised zero problems, and thus, I am able to record gameplay perfectly fine. My connections are perfectly fine, and nothing is damaged/broken. So either the splitter cannot strip the HDCP on a Playstation TV system, or my splitter is possibly faulty.
J W
Thanks J W for reporting this!
I’ve updated the article to reflect that this splitter might not work.
hans
Thank you for posting your results with the ViewHD Splitter. I too have had hit or miss results with this splitter as well.
Trev
Thanks Trev for confirming the hit and miss situation with this splitter.
hans
I have two HDMI splitters and a Hauppauge HD PVR 2 Gaming Edition. The splitters works fine without it plugged in to the capture device. However, I try plugging the output on the splitter into the input on the capture device, blank screen, yet detected.
My setup is the PS3 to the splitter to the capture device. I tried both of them with no luck. Can anyone help?
Ethan
Hi Ethan,
not all splitters strip the HDCP protection, other splitters require the primary output of the splitter to be connected to a legit device, for example your TV before the second HDMI output actually works.
If one of your splitters support HDCP stripping, then a PS3 should not cause any problems (according to this forum post).
I’d try PS3 -> Splitter -> TV (1st HDMI output). Once that works, plugin your Hauppauge in the 2nd HDMI output of the splitter, possibly while your PS3 and TV are running. So TV and capture device should be connected at the same time.
If this does not work for both splitters, then I’m afraid you have HDMI splitters that do not support HDCP stripping.
I found that newer splitters do not strip HDCP, the same goes for HDMI splitters that support HDMI 1.4 and newer.
Not sure if this is helpful, I hope it does.
p.s. some splitters prefer it that you connect everything before you power up the splitter.
hans
Hey Ethan,
Yes, it has been a hit or miss with 1×2 HDMI Splitters and especially as of late. Currently, the only success I have had at TRULY stripping HDCP has been when using the ViewHD HDMI 1×2 Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3d) receiving signal from a Mac Mini, Output 1 on the splitter going to a TV Output 2 going to an AverMedia Live Gamer Portable. I am able to record streaming movies from one of the paid subscriber services. Not having a PS3, I can not tell you if this Splitter would work for you. However, I have gone thru quite a few Splitters that just do not strip the HDCP. You can read in some of the previous posts what I have that has and has not worked.
Currently I am waiting on a record device that has said that it overcomes HDCP as well as an HDMI 4×2 matrix switch. As soon as I receive these items, get them set up and tested, I will be posting my findings here.
Trev
I saw that this item is not available anymore.I searched on ebay for the same thing, but the specs seems a bit off (the bandwith/operating frequency is different which make me worry about a fake one/different one with other chipset).This is the one linked in the article:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/251286040661This one is the one I found:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/XU-HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/321609008890
vincent
Hi Vicent,
Most splitters look very much alike, so it’s pretty much impossible to find the one that strips HDCP. Unless the list it as such or by … well, buying it and testing the splitter.
Even models that work today, might not work when you buy the same one tomorrow. Kind-a why we’re listing our experiences here.
For example, the one I bought works, but the newer versions no longer seem to strip HDCP.
As for the specs, well, I’m not sure these folks that list them, pay much attention to detail.
The only thing I looked for is that is should be a splitter supporting HDMI less than version 1.4.
hans
Hi need some help here.
I’m an artist that likes to take screenshots from movies and jazz them up for my own personal projects.
I have an Elgato60HD, but my PS3 doesn’t work with it. I also have an older Samsung Blu-Ray player but when I tried using it with the Elgato directly, I just got blank screen on my computer and TV due to HDCP.
Now I’ve read when you are able to bypass the PS3’s HDCP, it only outputs at 720p. With my blu-ray player, I want to max out at 1080p to get the best quality image from the movie for the screenshot (which I play around with in Photoshop later on).
Will purchasing one of these splitters help me use my Elgato60HD in conjunction with my blu-ray player as in :
Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder
And will it maintain the 1080p output from the blu-ray player?
I have a MacbookPro, and I theoretically could get an external blu-ray drive to watch movies on my Macbook and take screens from there, but since I already have an Elgato recorder, it may just be cheaper for me to get the Splitter instead of an External Blu-ray Drive.
Jeffrey
Happy New Year Jeffrey!
The Elgato60HD can do 1080p, so the setup you suggest should enable you to take screenshots in 1080p.
(Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder)
The trick seems to be that not every HDMI splitter strips HDCP, so it’s kind of a hit and miss at times.
I have listed a few models (mind the warnings) that have been reported to work/fail – this is not a guarantee those models work, since manufacturers update their devices to slightly “improved” specs. Also read the comments here, and with listed splitters, to exclude the ones that have fail for others.
If you buy one, then definitely look for confirmation in the item description if the seller claims HDCP stripping, or contact the seller to ask for confirmation.
Besides Amazon, AliExpress seems a good resource as well – again; double check with the seller(s). The ones at AliExpress seem a lot cheaper ($11 with free shipping!), but the listed splitters have incomplete and conflicting information (for example: it lists as HDMI 1.4, but in the details it says 1.3b).
Oh and if you found one there; please post the link here so others can use the link as well.
hans
Hey Han, thanks for the response.
I found this one
SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8
Reading the most recent customer reviews (less than 3 months), it appears customers are getting some success like the ViewHD Splitter.
Although the seller doesn’t put the claim it strips HDCP, it does say HDMI 1.3, not 1.4
Again if you read the customer reviews, it looks like many are getting success, some aren’t. But I’m wondering if that’s customer malfunction more than item.
Jeffrey
@Jeffrey looks very much like the one I got from eBay that works but didnt label it as HDCP stripping and they didn’t know.
dominick_7
Reading the comments, I’d say this could be a winner … it looks like a spitting image of the one I have.
When looking at the most recent reviews, from November 2015, I’d guess this one might work.
If you decide to get one, please post your experiences here, so I can add it to the list if it does work.
In the meanwhile, I’m still waiting for a response from the AliExpress seller …
hans
Ok so I can officially confirm for you and anyone else interested that while I’m having difficulty getting the HDFury Integral to work fully because it
requires a firmware and hacked file from them to fully function I guess
due to how companies have come down on them to block their product from
being used, this splitter http://www.ebay.com/itm/171569398368 does indeed strip HDCP like a champ.
dominick_7
Hey Dominick_7!
That’s great news and thank you for posting. If you don’t mind me asking, in what capacity are you using this splitter? Recording a gaming console, recording Bluray, recording streaming media? If any of these, what apps and devices are you using? The extra info will help in determining just what this splitter will do. I have some that partially strip the HDCP (meaning I can get it to work with some devices but not others) and some that do not strip HDCP at all. Thank you!
trev
Hi Trev,…
just chiming in …
I use it for Game Recording (no HDCP stripping needed on a XBox One/360), screenshots (from my laptop) and … for my next Ambient Light project where screens are analyzed to control ambient LEDs behind my TV, so it will work all the time.
For this I use an Elgato HD game capture, with the software that came with the Elgato.
For my upcoming (if it works) project: Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and 300 LEDs.
I did test the HDCP stripping with an Amazon Fire TV (streaming Amazon video, and Netflix video), a Roku box, movie playback on an XBox One (BluRay and streaming) and and XBox 360 (DVD and NetFlix streaming), and it worked in all cases.
The splitter I used however, has been reported to fail with the newer production “batches”.
Please note though that my purpose for the splitter is not to record movies, but it works!
hans
I ordered the splitter on ebay linked to here http://www.ebay/itm/171569398368 Now I’ve read that recent batches don’t strip HDCP. Is that correct for this device? If it is, I may b able to cancel my ebay purchase if I get an answer before it ships.
Brian
That’s interesting.
I’ve asked that seller and many other sellers if their splitter removes HDCP, and only 1 out of the 7 I sent question to (like this past weekend) have answered.
Unusual since eBay sellers generally answer back in a day. Guess none of these (I only really asked sellers located in America) sellers are going to say it for fear of getting cracked down on.
Jeffrey
@Trev I’m using it to record in 1080p60 from my Comcast HD DVR through my Hauppauge HD PVR 60. Hope to get the X1 DVRs hopefully that will give higher res video than 1080i. So it’s
Comcast HD PVR->HDFury Integral to strip HDCP->Hauppauge HD PVR 60->HP Envy 17t. If I get a Blu Ray that does Netflix or the Xbox One I figure I’ll be able to record in 4K in the future. The Integral does all the way up to 4K splitting. Think this should strip everything. Just need to make sure you flash the firmware with the hacked file and change one setting on one of the buttons and it should work.
dominick_7
@Jeffrey the other stripper I bought from eBay it works with Comcast HD DVR and the HDTV and my set up I posted. Can’t say if it will strip everything. I’d guess not, like I dont think it can do 4K.
dominick_7
@Jeffrey Hmm. Some took days to get back to me, the one I bought it from didn’t know the other that did reply wasn’t in the US but confirmed theirs does do HDCP stripping.
dominick_7
@Dominick_7 Thank you for posting your posting the extra info! It truly helps knowing just exactly how others are achieving the HDCP override.
trev
@Trev no problem, glad if it helps. Man this response system is confusing..
dominick_7
@Bryan I hear you, true.
Not sure. The only recommended one I saw was the Integral_046022 and saw others complaining why the others didnt get a hack.
Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?
@Bill the tech said “Move EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, you should be fine then” and it worked.
dominick_7
PS I just got the HD Fury working and it looks awesome, noticeably better picture quality than the other splitter. The other looks a bit washed out by comparison, but still workable/nice.
dominick_7
Awesome!
hans
Which HD Fury model did you get?
Brian
@Brian I got the Integral for $179 after doing the twitter and facebook share codes. Had to download the silabs driver v4, connect it to the notebook and flash firmware with an added hack for one of the bin files. I then connected it up to the Comc4ast DVR via the Hauppauge HD PVR 60, switched the EDID button to fixed and it all works awesomely.
@Hans so it seems, so far :)
dominick_7
Thanks for you answer to my question, here’s another one.
How did you get discount codes?
Brian
I just ordered an HDFury, the 4K one: Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz. I paid $170 US with the three discounts applied. I hope Warner Brothers and Intel don’t succeed in stopping their sale before mine is shipped.
Brian
@Brian No problem, you’re welcome. Oh you just add it to the cart and the options come up on the bottom left. You should be able to see it unless maybe you have some script blocker on or something. You just click share for both facebook and twitter and the codes will pop up. Their warranty and return policy seems pretty nice too. The Integral is a bit pricey but it pays for itself after like 2-3 seasons of tv series you’re not supposed to record and won’t of course ;) Unless you have a TIVO and can do the same thing which makes no sense but yea.. haha.
dominick_7
@Brian Sweet! What was the third code?? I heard they shut them down in so many ways. Are they/can they make them close down even if they’re in another country? Think they’re based in China.
dominick_7
Not sure if it’s the same for everyones set up but you need the Silabs driver, the 046022 firmware from the product page and need to get the hack from the forum there: direct link from the tech I talked to because I had problems following the Chinese fonts: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1pJ1o64V and click the GREY download icon where its written 27KB. Install the drivers, connect the Integral to your computer and flash both firmware exes, power cycling after each one and it should work if there was no sound or a static noise before that. I think that’s the only firmware that has a hack to bypass the HDCP nonsense.
dominick_7
The discounts were for sharing/tweeting with Google+, Twitter, and Facebook. They may have added a 3rd discount after you ordered.
If you can, would you please upload the files necessary to modify the HD Fury and make them available. A free file storing service with download may be appropriate.
Brian
Just ordered the HD Fury Integral! Thank you for the heads up on its workings. I’ve tried downloading the Firmware 0.46.0.22 but their website keeps sending me back to the latest update. I’ve downloaded the “other” file. Can anyone post a direct link to the Firmware 0.46.0.22 update or upload the file to a free storage site? Many Thanks!!
trev
New link for the HDFury files you need: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0.
dominick_7
@Bryan ahh yea they added Google + after I ordered k.
@Trev Sweet. K np here are the files you need the Silab driver, the firmware, the hack for the firmware and the manual. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cqwqwl8tjeyns9d/AAAPNAzUukjCXTEbTaDtGo27a?dl=0. Let me know what you guys think of the Integral and how it works.. Oh you need to switch the EDID button to the bottom set position then power cycle it after you flash both firmwares.
dominick_7
@DOMINICK_7 AWESOME!!! Thank you for putting that up! Yes this reply system gets a little confusing after it gets beyond a few replies, but Hans has done a great job keeping info up to date. And thanks to everyone that is posting their findings!! Keep up the great work!
trev
Hi Dominick_7,
Even with the reduction, it costs $250 CDN plus whatever duty and taxes are levied. An expensive device but there’s nothing else like it.
Thanks for making the essential files available for the HD Fury.
Brian
@Trev Yvw :) Haha.sure is. True, ty everyone.
@Brian $250 CDN..? Dang, sorry to hear that. I guess that’s what you get for living in Canada? Wasn’t aware of it being that different in terms of currency. Definitely. Yw glad if it helps. Whoever might be interested in HDCP stripping you may seriously want to consider getting the Integral while its still available. The powers that be have been trying to shut them down.
dominick_7
Living in Canada has a currency value downside now but there are upsides too but even those are being devalued.
Yes, anyone who wants to strip HDCP better buy the device now, at least in the USA, because there could be an injunction barring US sales.
Brian
There are newer versions of the firmware for the HD Fury Integral (Firmware 0.51.0.27 which is UpdateFpga_v27 and UpdateMCU_v51).
Is the older firmware (Firmware 0.46.0.22 which is UpdateFpga_v22 and UpdateMCU_v46) the only one which can be used to strip out HDCP or can it be done with the newest version?
Brian
Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?
bill
FYI: I have just sent an email to one of the sellers at AliExpress … I’ll post their reply once I hear from them. I’m sure others will be interested as well.
And in case you wanted to know: I use my HDMI splitter/HDCP stripper for screenshot as well.
hans
Nothing back yet?
I stopped my Amazon Prime membership, so if I buy the Sanoxy it may take a week to get it and test it out.
Jeffrey
Nothing yet … and honestly, I don’t expect anything by now. Not sure why it takes that long to reply to a message … but it tells me a lot about the seller. Can’t trust that one, or at least expect slow communication when issues arise.
Maybe I’ll order one or the other from AliExpress when I get back home, see if there is a deal to be made …
hans
I went ahead and ordered the Sanoxy on Tuesday.
Tracking says I’ll receive Monday, but I’ve been surprised before and gotten it a few days earlier.
I’ll let you know how my setup goes with:
Comcast DVR > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
Blu Ray Player >HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
PS3 > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
Jeffrey
Hey Hans,
Making a new comment separately so someone can see this. As I anticipated, the Sanoxy Splitter came today instead of Monday.
Give me a few hours to try it and I’ll let you know how it goes!
Jeffrey
First attempt, I can report the SANOXY splitter has indeed worked.
First configuration:
2008 Samsung Blu-Ray Player Output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter Input >>>SANOXY Output 1 >>> Elgato60 HD to MacBook Pro + HDTV
Success, Output 2 not used.
I will go try my Comcast DVR (it’s an older one from ’09 or ’10 I believe) next.
Jeffrey
Second Attempt, SANOXY Splitter has indeed worked with my Comcast DVR.
Comcast DVR HDMI Output >> SANOXY Splitter >> Splitter Output 1 >> Elgato60HD >> MacBook Pro
Quality looks amazing on my laptop as well.
I forgot I let my brother borrow my PS3, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
So Hans you can update your article now to include the SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray.
Works 100% for me. Very satisfied!
Jeffrey
Thanks for the information Jeffrey. Two questions: Does your unit look like the first picture in the Amazon display which has the blue and white lettering or the one with only the white lettering in the second and other pictures? Also, which vendor did you order from as there are more than a few listed on Amazon? Thanks again!
Jerome
Thanks Jeffrey!
Awesome that you’ve found another splitter! I’ve updated the article!
hans
I don’t know if the following will be of help regarding the HDCP issues, but here is my recent experience with a splitter which looks similar to others mentioned in various posts.
Although I’m not sure what Jeffrey’s splitter looks like, the one that I ordered recently on ebay looks like the first picture on Amazon’s description for the Sanoxy model with the blue and white print as opposed to the other pictures with the white lettering only. Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181785675612 for the one that I ordered. While the description says HDMI 1.3, the box and directions say 1.4 but for my problem it works. I cannot say for sure if it removes HDCP as I do not have a Playstation or capture card or similar devices which are mentioned in many articles on various sites. I also do not have a DVR but rather a Panasonic DVD Recorder.
I have DirecTV and some time last year, a change was made which caused this message to appear: “Your TV does not support this program’s content protection. Replacing
the TV’s HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the
program.” This is only when you have both the HDMI and component cable connection (AV Out) utilized at the same time. The message only appears on the component output not the HDMI. My component output goes into an Atlona Comp500 converter which outputs an S-Video signal for the Panasonic DVD recorder. The HDMI goes into a Sony TV about six years old. Regular SD channels are not affected, only HD. I had read somewhere that using a splitter might work for this problem and it did. I took the DirecTV HDMI output into the splitter input, the DirecTV component output into the Atlona, then the HDMI 1 output into the television and the error message was gone when viewing from the Panasonic DVD recorder. Switching channels while watching directly from the television or through the DVD recorder did not make a difference. I have my DirecTV resolution set as native so that the picture is shown in its regular format as opposed to an upscaled one. There is a slight delay here sometimes and others have mentioned that this could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. I did power on the splitter first before turning on the television and satellite box. The HDMI 2 output was not used.
I also tried using the splitter with the same hookup above but also utilizing the HDMI 2 output with an Insignia television about four years old to see if the signal would appear on all three outputs and it did. No error messages appeared. Picture quality through the HDMI splitter looked fine with no apparent difference as compared to a direct connection. Of course, the output from the Atlona box is SD converted from an HD component signal but I use it to record from time to time and for my purposes, it is adequate. The recorder works better when recording from HD or SD broadcast (over the air) stations since it does its own conversion and has its own tuner so the picture looks sharper and more accurate than the Atlona which is a bit softer and tends to increase colors a bit. S-Video is the best connection for the DVD recorder as the composite one looks a tad softer if used.
Hope this helps someone with a similar situation.
Jerome
So last week after reading some of the posts about the HD Fury Integral, I started hunted one down. They appear to be removed from Amazon now. Found one on Craigslist for $300 in San Francisco. Went to the HD Fury website and they had them listed as IN STOCK, so I placed the order on Jan 6th. My Paypal account has been processed the $179 but I have received no shipping info. Tried contacting them but no word yet. Hoping I’m not out $179.
If you are at all thinking about buying one, be careful at this point in time!
trev
If Paypal purchased shouldn’t there be a full refund if it isn’t delivered?
Brian
I would like to think so, but I’m thinking I’d really like to have the Integral instead.
trev
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw-ezjGag9w
this recorder audio 5.1 ????
ahmed
Hi Ahmed,
as far as I understand from Trev: Currently the Cloner does not recorder 5.1 audio, and records it in stereo (Trev? Am I saying that right?).
A future firmware update might address this issue, but that probably has to be addressed with the manufacturer so they would actually release a proper firmware to support 5.1.
hans
thank you very good
I bought the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter with HDPVR2(1215)
and working very good and recorder audio 5.1 . Here is a sample of the Date
https://youtu.be/ukTr_iWqcuw
ahmed
Awesome! Is the splitter this ViewPort model?
hans
yes this model
ahmed
hans
@Ahmed, No this recorder does NOT record in 5.1, only stereo audio. But for my needs, that wasn’t necessary. It is a great recorder and I just ordered another one last night. The Cloner Alliance responded to my inquiry about 5.1 any upcoming firmware updates and gave no indication that it would be happening. Still, as a stand-alone recording device this one is by far the best that I have used. I have NOT needed any splitter to be able to record the HDMI signal from my AppleTV. Hope this helps.
trev
Hi..
I was given an HDML Cloner Box Pro for Christmas…I’ve attempted to record various projects..it DOES record from any source…HOWEVER..
While it does record..and it says that it’s recording in 1080p….it’s actually recording only in (less than standard) 420p..
I’ve tried various methods..while the box INDICATES that it IS recording in 1080p.. in reality, it only records in 420p.
How do I know this?
First, from viewing the recorded file.. yeah.. that’s NOT high definition at all.
Secondly, watch the file on the MEDIA PLAYER CLASSIC video software on your computer.. while the file is playing..press “PLAY”..then scroll down the menu there..then press “VIDEO STREAM”.
I recorded an episode of GAME OF THRONES …the video looks great; in full 1080p, high definition, WHILE I’m recording it directly from HBO On Demand…
HOWEVER.. the video stream indicated this = “video handler [Eng] H264 constrained baseline L4.0 yuv 420p, 1920 x 1080 15854 kb/s (english) ”
Do you see that “yuv 420P”.. yup.. it SHOULD be recording in 1080p..but it isn’t.
I dunno what I’m doing wrong….but I can’t get it to record in any higher format than 420p..very soft focus and blurry.
I’ve written to Cloner-Alliance about this problem..hopefully; they will have an answer.
Ron Grimm
Thanks Ron for the heads up!
I have no experience with the HDMI Cloner Box – could it be related to the media you’re using to store the recording on? (ie. a slow USB stick or memory card). Trev however (see his comments here) has been playing with one of those – maybe he can comment on this and help you in the right direction?
hans
Hello Ron!
That is odd and you should contact HDMI ClonerBox about it. More than likely they will swap it out. I’ve had issue with one of the 3 that I have, where it just stopped recording no matter what i did, and they sent me a new one. I just finished a recording, opened it in both Quicktime and VLC. Here are links showing the item properties from both apps:
Quicktime – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joVTUxODVUWFhMQjA
VLC – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joSi1tcmljREN2Nkk
I’ve never been able to choose any other settings than 720p and 1080p on the HDMI ClonerBox, so hopefully swapping out for another box will solve your issue.
Trev
Thanks Trev for chiming in – it’s much appreciated!
hans
I bought the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D – $24 at Amazon and received it today (1/12/2016) It does NOT bypass the HDCP! I still have the same problem.
Bob
Hi Bob!
Thank you for reporting this ….
First off, we already listed the ViewHD quite a while ago as “confirmed, but recent models fail!!!”.
Having said that … in the Dutch version of this article a user observed that using different HDMI cables might resolve the issue. In his case he used a shorter HDMI cable, but I’m starting to wonder if it has to do with the quality and certification (HDMI version) of the cable(s) used.
Another observation is that all HDMI cables should be connected before powering the HDMI splitter.
And finally, what might help as well, is having a HDCP compliant device on the first HDMI output of the splitter (for example your TV).
Please let us know if any of these 3 (or all of them) resolve the issue, I’ll be keeping y fingers crossed.
hans
I’ve had a similar experience with the View HD 2 port for the Xfinity X1 cable box. Does anyone know what will strip HDCP from X1? Thanks.
Charles
Funny thing is that I just moved and am stuck with Xfinity as my cable provider.
I just needed Internet but it came with free basic channels for TV as well.
The guy from Comcast delivered a “new” box (not the X1) which didn’t even have HDMI. When looking at the bottom of the box it said “Manufactured May 2009” … 2009!!!! So I asked him for a HDMI box, which he could deliver (the X1) for $69.99/mo … so I told him to go put the X1 where the sun doesn’t shine … grrr….
So bottom line; I can’t test my splitter with the X1, unless someone knows a neat trick to get an X1 without paying $69.99/mo.
hans
Hans, are you meaning to say that you had no choice with the package from your provider, or the bundling of services? I find that bizarre. It is contrary to proper business practices when trying to serve the customer’s needs. (Of course greed often trumps customer needs.)
I have never heard of that. There is always a basic package in any service category. Well, at least here in the USA.
Is there a monopoly where you are? Does the government allow monopolies?
Michael
Hi Michael,
I’m actually in the US … Houston.
I could choose plenty $$$ packages, but I don’t really need TV, just the basic channels would be sufficient – which comes with my Internet at no extra charge. What baffled me is that they assumed I’d have a TV with a build in tuner (which I do not). Everything is connected through HDMI these days, but their box forces me to use either coax or composite (not component or HDMI). Not to mention that the box is ancient (2009) and only shows video in 4:3 format (horrible on a modern TV).
I’m already looking into other options – I’m definitely not going to recommend ComCast to anyone … their Internet is fine though, even though they limit your download to 1Tb/mo (which is probably enough) – let’s see what NetFlix and Amazon chew away on a monthly basis …
hans
I have a question specific on my setup and appreciate any help. I was given a Gateway 42″ Plasma (Model # P42M203). It unfortunately, only has a DVI-D input which is NOT HDCP compliant (no HDMI). I am trying to connect a Roku to this TV but am getting a flickering screen when using the Sanoxy splitter listed above. My setup is as follows:
Roku 3 HDMI output >> SANOXY Splitter (found here)>>> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: black flickering screen
Roku 3 HDMI output >> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: Menu loads fine, streamed content displays HDCP error.
Does anyone know an appropriate way to go from HDMI to a “non-HDCP” DVI-D port? I plan to run audio separately using the 3.5mm output on the remote. I’m not trying to record content, etc. I just want to use this display in a workshop and don’t want to buy another TV.
Much appreciated!!
Greg Kneeland
Hi Greg,
now this is exactly one of those applications why I posted this article!
First thing I’d try is switching your Roku to 720p (if possible), and test it with a regular HDMI capable TV if you have access to one. Or even better, a HDMI game recording device, just to test is HDCP is indeed removed.
Second thing I’d try is different HDMI cables. In the Dutch version of this article, one user discovered that one of his HDMI cables failed, where as an other one (not sure if that;s relevant, but it was a shorted HDMI cable) worked just fine.
These would be my first 2 steps … of course not having a HDMI recording device to test makes it pretty hard to test.
hans
Thanks for the advice. I switched the Roku to 720p (which I totally didn’t even think about) and tested it on a newer plasma w/HDMI. It worked as it should. Then I took it back out to the Gateway plasma and it did work, but with a really choppy picture and the sound had constant static on both menu screen and when streaming Netflix. I tried multiple HDMI cables between the Roku and splitter. I also tried multiple HDMI to DVI cables between the splitter and TV and the result was the same. My initial thought on the root of the problem are:
1) The splitter is faulty – I then tried the splitter on a couple other TV’s and it worked normally via HDMI to HDMI input.
2) You cannot run an HDMI to DVI cable from the spiltter
I do know the DVI input does work on the TV as I have been successful in getting a computer working on it normally.
Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?
I am stumped!
Greg
“Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?”
Sorry, I meant: “Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP DVI?”
Greg
Hey there so with the Dvi to hdmi the cable ur where using I had a similar problem I had a cable vga to component and it work from the computers vga port to a regular tv component but then I plugged the vga into a monitor and tryed to plug my PS3 into the vga adapter into a monitor but no luck I believe it is cause the computer powers and drives the adapter where when I tryed the adapter and the PS3 into a monitor no luck I will see if I can find u one that might work hopefully I am hoping i did not confuse you if I did message me and I will see if I can explain it better
Zach
You might be right about the HDMI->DVI “conversion”, not to mention the difference between DVI-I and DVI-D … I suspect that most “converters” actually only do HDMI->DVI-D (ie. only digital signal). I’m not sure if you TV takes DVI-D … or just the analog signal …?
hans
I believe something like this will work and support 1080p and it is a powered unit which will actually convert the signal not just wire one plug to another cause one signal is digital and one is analog so this adapter it should convert the signal from digital to analog to the dvi port on your tv but look into this one hopefully what I said makes sense here’s the link
http://m.ebay.ca/itm/271888278622
Zach
Zach/Hans,
Well I figured it out!! Luckily I had initially purchased an HDMI to DVI converter (not the HDMI to DVI cable) when I first got the TV. I had to run the setup listed here:
Roku>>HDMI splitter (to strip HDCP)>>HDMI to DVI converter>> Gateway TV.
I don’t think I would have figured it out if I didn’t get help here. Thanks guys we are up and running!!
Greg
Awesome!
hans
Glad to hear anytime have fun with it:p
Zach
If you don’t mind me asking is the converter the one you have plug into the wall to power it kind of like the one I linked just curious :) thanks
Zach
Thanks again for the help. I used the set up listed below:
Roku 3 HDMI output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter(HDCP Stripper) Input (Found here)>>>SANOXY HDMI Output 1 >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter HDMI input (Found here) >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter DVI output >>>Gateway TV DVI input
The only issue I found with the Revesun HDMI to DVI converter is that it is supposed to convert digital audio to analog. The analog audio outputs on the unit supply NO sound in my scenario. The Roku 3 remote has a 3.5mm audio output, so I just hook that to my stereo receiver instead. I am not sure if running the HDCP stripper outputs a signal that cannot have audio/video separated but I will run some tests. I’m also going to see if I can’t have another unit sent out and hopefully it will correct the problem.
Greg
Hey everyone I bought the veiwhd this is the link ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | VHD-1X2MN3D
I received it I tested it on my ps4 but before anyone says anything I turned the hdcp ON my ps4 and recorded Netflix which you can not do with hdcp OFF. I use the Algato hd60 to record and I have tested the hd60 without the veiwhd hooked up to the ps4 and hdcp ON and the hd60 recording software says it can’t record cause hdcp is ON but when I plug the veiwhd in and try it work perfectly strips the hdcp I will keep this update if I try on different devices feel free to ask question. So in my case the veiwhd works and strips the hdcp
Zach
Hi Zach!
Thanks for posting your findings. I had the same experience with the ViewHD/Elgato.
For those where the ViewHD fails:
In a post at the Dutch version of the article, one of the users actually noticed that this seems to depend on the HDMI cables used. In my case it worked right away, but in his case it did not. When he swapped his HDMI cable for different ones, it suddenly worked. He was guessing it had to do with cable length, but I suspect it has to do with the quality or HDMI version the cable was made for. So it’s worth trying different HDMI cables (between video source and splitter).
hans
Ya I agree it could be the cable but I will admit that one of the cables I am using in my setup is a 3ft HDMI that I bought at dollarama which is a dollar store in Ottawa Canada so for anyone that is looking for a cable to use with this setup it should work and the best part it only cost 3.50$ but it is just really short but I do believe it could do with the version of Hdmi that is why I believe the dollar store one works because it works with older versions but I could be totally wrong just letting u guys know my experience and question feel free to ask and thanks Hans I never though it could be the HDMI cable but now that u mention it I can see that happening
Zach
I just updated your link, for some reason Amazon gave me an error message when I tried opening the link you originally posted.
hans
Thanks very much sorry for that
Zach
No problem
…. I just wanted to double check if it was the same ViewHD I have … 
hans
Today, I received the Integral 4K60/600MHz HDMI device. The packaging was a bit worse-for-wear but the device is ok, no dents, scratches, etc. It didn’t take long to be delivered. It cost me $250 CDN for the Integral and $22 CDN duty/taxes/handling/collection charges.
Is there anything necessary to do to the Integral to strip out HDCP with it such as: //www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/#comment-164225
Brian
Hi Brian,
by my knowledge, this would be HDMI 1.4, and I have not seen HDMI splitters that support this AND strip HDCP … unless you’re having a 1080p source, which still might work.
hans
@Brian You need the hacked firmware files I posted below plus the directions I posted with them. I had to repost the dropbox link because I reorganized them in a different folder.
dominick_7
I received an Integral HD Fury a few days ago and have just got around to using it. I “updated” the firmware files and that supposedly was successful but I haven’t been able to get it to work with my DVI input monitor. The setup is: Laptop HDMI output –> Integral HD Fury –> HDMI cable with HDMI to DVI converter –> Computer monitor DVI input. I ran the Integral GUI on my computer but I am unable to determine what the settings should be to enable the DVI input computer monitor to work. Does anyone know how?
Brian
Hey Brian – From all that I have read about the Integral, I think you are going to have to instal the hacked firmware 046022, which is a few versions back from the current firmware that it sounds like you have installed. Someone else posted the files in one of the other replies, so look thru them. Due to carrier issues, mine has not arrived yet so I can not help much, but I think you are still dealing with an HDCP issue thru the DVI, therefore installing the hacked software your issue should be fixed. Someone else may have a better idea, but I hope this helps.
trev
I installed the hacked firmware 046022, twice, just to be certain that it “took”. I ran the Integral GUI software and it appears to recognize the Integral HD Fury but it doesn’t show the firmware version number.
Does anyone know why? I hope I didn’t get a lemon.
Brian
I reinstalled the latest firmware which INTEGRAL GUI v1.8 works with. I reinstalled the hacked firmware and the INTEGRAL GUI v1.6 works with it showing the firmware version 0.46.0.22 and the source info Sony, 1920x1080p60 HDMI; Output: none; Color Space: YCbCr 4:4:4, ITU-R BT.709
Still nothing appearing on the DVI input computer display.
Brian
You need the hacked firmware: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0
Then you need to switch the EDID button to to fixed and restart the source by unplugging the USB power source and replugging it in.
dominick_7
@Brian you’ll need the firmware files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0 then you’ll need to move the EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, it should work then. If that doesn’t work then tech support should be able to help you. Took me a while to reply because I got locked out somehow.
dominick_7
UPDATE: HD Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance.
After having the HD C-B hooked directly up to my AppleTV, AppleTV to the HDMI input on the TV, to record Netflix streaming, I decided it was time to hook things back up thru my Onky Receiver (AppleTV to HDMI 1 input on Onkyo Receiver, Blu-Ray to HDMI 2 input on the Onkyo. Onkyo output 1 into C-B, C-B out to TV). No matter what I did in this set up, I could not get the C-B to record nor pass a solid signal thru to the TV. I then tried out how I had originally had success in recording on the Blackmagic H264 recorder (Onkyo HDMI output 1 to the TV, HDMI output 2 to the C-B). I also hooked up the output of the C-B into the 2nd HDMI input on the TV. As I write this, I am in the process of recording a BluRay to the C-B. All seems to be working fine and I will try the AppleTV thru this setup next.
So yes, this is a great little standalone recorder that does overcome HDCP in 99% of the configurations I have tried.
trev
Thanks Trev for getting back with this info … although I’m a little confused haha …
So the Onkyo seems to be functioning as a stripper as well? Just only when a valid HDCP device is connected to HDMI out 1 …?
(sorrry it’s late here haha)
hans
Hello to all,
I’m actually looking at some conversion for an Intel Compute Stick that I would like to use as a mediacenter in my car.
The fact is I bought the (in)famous HDMI2AV adapter from eBay, but when I try it on my TV, nothing shows on screen (I tried different resolution but nothing helps).
So basically, I think about the fact that this HDMI2AV adapter is not compliant with HDCP (I get a black screen anyway with any resolution).
If someone knows/can tell me how to achieve this, it would be very nice.
Thanks.
SimKard
Hi SimKard,
First thing I’d try is using the HDMI output of another device, for example a laptop (just displaying the desktop of Windows for example) or a media player box (like tha Amazon Fire TV without playing any content). Just to make sure the HDMI2AV works … that’s definitely the first thing I’d test.
I would not think the HDMI output of your Intel Compute Stick had HDCP, unless you’re playing particular content like NetFlix etc.
According to this forum thread, the stick might experience HDMI detection/handshake issue as well. Not sure if that’s the case in your situation.
If HDCP proves to be an issue, well, then you’re stuck with one or the other HDCP stripper, like some of the HDMI splitters mentioned in this article. Is a hit and miss at times to see if one of these splitters will work though. The “good” news is that these strippers are relatively small, roughly the size of a package of cigarettes, and you should be able to power it in the car (see this comment above).
Before buying one, make sure the HDMI2Av actually works, and read the posts here to see the findings of others.
I wouldn’t mind testing one of these sticks, but unfortunately, I do not have one …
hans
Also how does Google get around with violating the DMCA with its Chromecast audio devices with analog outputs?
I just want to use a Chromecast 1 device on my tv. And roku is OK but the YouTube roku app is so unreliable.
Justin Goldberg
Here’s a conversion with an ebay seller about the white hdmi2av:
Me:
Does this decrypt HDCP 1.x content? I purchased a standalone cable with HDMI in and component with rca audio out, which does not with a Chromecast.
Seller:
I don’t believe it decrypts HDCP. It just converts HDMI to RCA. We have noticed issues recently with this product working with newer HDMI devices though.
Justin Goldberg
Hi Justin,
I think that most sellers (on western world marketplaces) will not easily state or admit that their hardware removes HDCP.
A lot of HDMI->RCA converters however, do not strip HDCP – which is unfortunate for situation you’re looking at. This is actually the same situation I started out with as well. I needed HDMI -> RCA and none of these converters work when HDCP is involved, which is unfortunate.
Since I started out with a project to create Ambilight for all my video sources, I needed a HDMI splitter anyway (to catch all the video that goes from my Home Theatre system to my TV). That’s when I found out that certain cheap HDMI splitters actually strip HDCP.
So the setup will become:
video source -> HDMI Splitter -> TV
And the second output of the HDMI Splitter -> HDMI-to-RCA converter -> analog video grabber -> AmbiLight device
As for your ChromeCast question; I’m not sure what you mean with the analog Audio question.
I’d assume that connecting a ChromeCast to the HDMI-splitter, and one output of the HDMI splitter to any HDMI->RCA device would work.
hans
This will be of interest. Use the bin file here with firmware version 0.51.0.27 to “solve” HDCP problems. http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin
I used it with the following settings to enable an non-compliant computer monitor to display HDCP content from my laptop.
edid automix mode
audio auto [bt]
hdcp 1.4
Post your results please.
Brian
@Bryan you try it?
dominick_7
I tried it and it worked to enable viewing HDCP protected content on a computer monitor which wouldn’t show it previously.
Brian
Sweet so I guess I’ll add that the next time I update the firmware. Thanks.
dominick_7
You can update the firmware now. I know the new .bin file ‘fixes’ the HDCP problem because the computer monitor doesn’t comply with HDCP and won’t display an HDCP protected HDMI signal. The new firmware has features and fixes that previous versions don’t have and you can always revert back to the firmware you are now using. Trust me, it works.
Brian
Also, I don’t know how long the new .bin file will be available, so download it now.
Brian
Maybe this is helpful, or not, but I downloaded the bin file and made it available here for download.
It’s Integral HD Fury firmware version 0.51.0.27 from this link http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin.
It’s only 30 Kb in size so I have no idea if this is correct (please confirm).
The link for download from Tweaking4All is: INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin.zip
If anyone could provide the full specs (ie. Device info and/or missing files) then I’d be more than happy to post them here as well …
Feel free to let me know if this is not the right file, or if anything else is missing, since I do not own the Integral HD Fury.
hans
@Brian definitely downloaded it as soon as you mentioned it, will use it for the updated firmware when I get a chance ty. Makes me curious to know what sort of changes were made as far as menu options.
dominick_7
Install the firmware and you’ll see the changes.
Brian
@Hans do I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware? Also is that the best one currently? Thanks.
Dominick
dominick_7
As far as I understand, from Brian (please correct me if I’m wrong), the posted firmware is the one you need – I don’t think you need to “hack” it. Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral to confirm this …
hans
Have the Vertex so cannot say for sure, but this sounds like it’s not stripping hdcp completely and simply changing hdcp 2.2 to hdcp 1.4. I hope that the hacked firmware completely removes hdcp and that someone will post it for the Vertex too!
Adam
@Hans wanted to add that I got a Tivo through my Integral, to Hauppauge HD PVR 60 then to my HP Envy 17t but it isnt displaying right. Want to rule out the Integral hence the question about if I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware file. Thanks.
dominick_7
Hi Dominick_7!
Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral. I just made the file from Brian available directly from Tweaking4All.
Maybe Brian is the better person to answer this question … or one of the other Integral users?
hans
I just wanted to comment. Thanks to this website I bought the SANOXY HDMI 1by2 3D Splitter v1.3 HDCP 2ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 DVD BluRay. There is a link to it on this website. It is the top entry of the bullet list of possible hdcp strippers. This list is a little ways above the comment section.
I have an old Sony HDTV with one HDMI input. I can’t watch any premium DISH TV programs because of the hdcp error screen. With my tv if you navigate into the menu you can eventually get to a page that has a field named: HDCP. On my tv it always says HDCP:No . I just hooked up the Sanoxy hdmi splitter and now the field says HDCP:YES . My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stipper.
I bought another hdmi splitter off of ebay and I should get it next week. In the title of the listing it says that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed the seller and asked him if it was a hdcp stripper. He emailed me back and said it can strip hdcp. If it works I’ll post it here in the comment section.
Thanks,
Tim
Tim
Thanks Tim for reporting!
I had no idea that a TV could report this … Did you mean when the splitter is used it says “HDCP: NO”, versus when the splitter is not used where it says “HDCP: YES”?
The link Tim is talking about: Sanoxy HDMI at Amazon.
hans
Hans,
In yesterdays comment I mistakenly said that I navigated into my Sony TV menu to a page with a field labeled HDCP: NO or HDCP: Yes. It was actually my DISH TV menu I went into. For those of you with DISH TV here is the path: menu – system setup – installation – system info – next. The page is titled System Info Two . Evidently, HDCP:No means you can’t watch hdcp protected programming and HDCP:Yes means you can.
The HDCP field of my DISH TV System Info Two page has always said HDCP:No. I can’t watch premium DISH programing because of the hdcp error screen.
Yesterday, when I hooked up my new Sanoxy HDMI splitter the field switched to HDCP:Yes.
About a week and a half ago DISH offered me free Epix for a month. It wouldn’t work because of the hdcp error screen. Today I called DISH and resubscribed to Epix. It works perfectly with the Sanoxy HDMI splitter. The HDCP field of the DISH TV System Info Two page says: HDCP:Yes. My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stripper.
Tim
Thanks Tim for the clarification – I was a little confused the other day haha.
Awesome, yet another valid reason to get a HDCP stripper … isn’t it idiotic that companies will “push” the consumer to buy new electronics just because they decided to add some new? Oh well, I’m very glad to hear this worked for you! Awesome!
hans
I’m using HDfury devices never had any problem since many years now. They are expensive, but work perfectly well and picture quality is outstanding.
Chris
this one Portta 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b Compatible c1.4 3D 1080p Swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-Ray and this one ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto work ! and Sewell Direct SW-23500 HDMI Splitter fail !
summerboy
Awesome – Thanks SummerBoy for sharing your findings!
Do you happen to have links to these HDMI splitters?
hans
Just a follow up. Last week I commented on the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter . It works! I’m able to watch Epix which I purchased from Dish TV. Without the hdmi splitter I get the hdcp error screen.
I also commented that I bought another hdmi splitter from an ebay seller. It arrived yesterday. I just hooked it up. It works too! Here is the link: ebay hdmi splitter/hdcp stripper . The seller states in the title that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed him before I bought it and he confirmed the same. The original price was $12.48. About a week ago it went up to $14.48. Now it is $16.48.
For the money the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter is a better deal at $15.90. It is a much better construction with a steal case and a heavy duty power cord. The hdmi splitter I bought off ebay is a cheap plastic thing with a cheap power cord. Interestingly, the Sanoxy hdmi splitter pictured on the Amazon website looks like the hdmi splitter I purchased from the ebay seller. The actual Sanoxy hdmi splitter I received in the mail looks totally different and it has a much more solid construction.
I hope this is helpful for someone!
Tim
That’s good news Tim!
Thanks for taking the time to post your findings – the more folks post their findings, the better …
I have the suspicion that only a very few splitters are made, just relabeled a lot.
The Sanoxy looks exactly like my ViewHD (older, working model).
hans
I bought two ViewHD splitters that look exactly the same as the Saxony from a different source and they don’t strip HDCP. I opened one and compared it to the circuit board of one in a review that does strip HDCP. The circuit boards are identical, even the markings on it, but it doesn’t strip HDCP. I looked up the chips used on the board and they are identical too but there must be something that changed in the firmware settings used on the HDMI chip that deals with HDCP. I searched for the data sheets for that chip but only found product briefs, no information about programming the chip, it is proprietary information which a non-disclosure agreement is required for.
The 3 chips on the board are:
STM8S003F3
Sil9187BCNU HDMI processor (This is the chip which deals with HDCP)
https://www.semiconductorstor.com/pdf/newsite/SiliconImage/Sil9187_DB.pdf
PI3HDMI412ADZBE
Brian
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-portta-hdmi-splitter/
Teardown of Portta HDMI splitter
Brian
Thanks Brian,
that’s actually pretty interesting (although the PDF link didn’t work). So this would suggested a setting in the firmware might be what “does the trick” ?
hans
$30 U.S. for shipping to Canada makes it prohibitively expensive from that source.
Brian
CONFIRMED 02/26/2016 “VIEW HD MINI” STRIPS HDCP INSTANTLY!!!
I bought this little guy from Amazon with a hope and a prayer that it would solve all of my HDCP issues and Hallelujah it was a miracle from the Video Capturing Gods!!!! This little box came in today and the HDCP Demons left with the Priest or maybe it was the UPS guy lol. I tested on Direct TV’s Gennie Mini with my Elgato for about 7 Hours. 4 straight on Fox Sports 1 and 3 on and off on multiple channels from Sports to local, pay per view and premium channels, everyone worked like it did before this crap came along!! Best $25 I ever spent!! Here is the Amazon Link took 1 day to get here with Free Amazon Prime 2 Day Shipping! View HD Mini HDMI Splitter
If you have any questions feel free to send me a message on my Facebook Page here at CBM Racing
CBM Racing
Thanks for confirming CBM Racing!
It’s the exact same model that I tested (2nd in the list), which seemed to fail with some. Good to know though that there are still versions that seem to work!
hans
Your welcome. Ya I had no clue which one to buy because who knows if by the time you get it they fixed itml I felt like I was drowning in a sea of HDMI Splitters and converters so I literally picked and prayed! I use it for a livestream so if it didnt work I would have had 20,000+ pissed off people sending me digital hate mail and comments. So it works with the Direct Tv Genie Mini paired up with a Elgato HD capture card. Really simple to setup plugin the power supply then take the HDMI cable coming out of the Genie Mini and plug it into the HDMI input on the box. I used HDMI Output 1 into the Elgatos HDMI Input then another cable from the Elgatos HDMI out to my 2014 Vizio smart tv and everything worked like a dream. I personally wouldn’t leave it setup 24/7. Use it only when you need it then unplug the splitter and put it back into its box until its needed again. I ran two 3 hour streams with it and it got warm so to have a good long life I recommend shutting it off when not in use because I have no clue if it will last a day or 10 years that is for another post I guess. But yes its confirmed as of February 27th 2016 it strips away HDCP encryption instantly. Hope this helps someone. Cheers!!!
CBM Racing
Awesome!
Thanks again for sharing!
hans
[…] English […]
Hi
Does anyone have a link to a splitter from a UK seller that strips HDCP?
Thanks.
Shane
Hi Shane,
I’m not aware of a specific store in the UK, but Amazon delivers (certain articles) to Europe, and you might get lucky on eBay.
AliExpress is a potential good resource as well – although I have not tested any of these splitters, I would presume there are only a few factories actually building them (pay attention to the description and possibly ask the seller for confirmation).
Hope this helps a little bit …
hans
No worries, I’ve ordered one from Amazon UK that has conflicting reviews, guess I’ll try it myself to find out. I’ll report back whether or not it was successful.
Shane
Hi Hans,
I’m very happy to report the one I purchased from Amazon UK works perfectly.
Here is the link for anyone interested.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KZBC92
Shane
Awesome!!!
Thanks for posting the Amazon link as well! Looks like most of the other 2-way splitters listed above. Great to have confirmation that this one works as well!
hans
Hello and thanks, I just ordered one.
I will update and post a new message as soon as I receive it and make some tests.
Thanks !
SimKard
Awesome!
hans
@Shane- Here you go:
digi4u.co.uk link
dominick_7
Bought this one on Amazon UK : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KZBC92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on March 17. Works great!
Eddy
Have I got some questions!
Firstly, thanks everyone on this post for the helpful comments, and advice re: HDCP removal, the sheer genuineness of the those who have helped others is very heartening, its rare to see a forum where sarcasm is the least of our worries!
My problem is that I have the following kit:-
BTSport YouView device (I am in UK) >> HDFury Integral >> Intensity Pro 4K……..
I am only interested in recording a 3840 x 2160 4K signal, and after a week of having all the above kit together (the HDFury Integral was the last to arrive), I have tried simply everything with this combination of kit, including trying the hacked 04622, but to no avail, Media Express only ever shows 1920 x 1080 50 at best. A few years ago, with my trusty Hauppauge PVR 1 and then 2, I got used to having no problems at all with 1080 using a 1080 splitter to remove HDCP v1.3, but right now, the last thing I want to see is a 1080 signal showing on Media Express!
I know that the removal of HDCP v2.2 encryption and, subsequently via the Integral, HDCP v1.4 encryption, needs to happen for a 4K capture device to have a decrypted signal, but I am not sure if I have it correct in my assumptions that the hacked firmware 046022 is meant to be removing HDCP v1.4 from the HDFury Integral’s output.
I know the HDFury Integral by defaults helps to remove HDCP v2.2 and output with HDCP v1.4, and that also by default, HDCP v1.4 encryption isn’t being removed.
Tests as per comments on here using the hacked firmware 046022, whilst setting the EDID switch to the bottom position, and reinserting the source etc are making no difference, because the Intensity Pro 4K is not seeing any 4K signal whatsoever, aside from the audio channels in Media Express being “alive”.
As a side note, I am using an older firmware for the Intensity Pro 4K that is recommended on Blackmagic’s forums, but still no joy.
This is failing I think for one, or maybe both, of the following reasons:-
1:- The Intensity Pro 4K is only able to accept up to 3840 x 2160 30, whilst the BTSport YouView device outputs ONLY at 3840 x 2160 50. I am not sure, and need help with this, as to whether the Intensity Pro 4K (and other similar capture cards) would, if they see a 3840 x 2160 50 signal incoming, drop the signal down to 30hz and work with that lower refresh rate if that is the highest refresh rate they can cope with, or do they simply have no chance of using a signal with a higher refresh rate?
2:- The hacked 046022 fw for the HDFury Integral is not working as I think it should be………because I am assuming the hack is supposed to be removing the HDCP v1.4 encryption from the output of the Intregral? Is it, and I hope this isn’t the case, that the hacked fw 046022 only removes HDCP v1.4 for lower (1080) resolutions and not 4K signals?
I am unsure as to whether what I think should be happening in 1: and 2: above are correct, so would be very interested to hear from others who might see where the issue is here….
If its correct that my only issue here would be that the Intensity Pro 4K is never going to be able to work with the 50hz 4K signal that my BTSport YouView box outputs at (and therefore meaning the HDFury Integral is doing everything correctly), then I might need to return the Intensity Pro 4K and get one of the £500 extra capture cards from Blackmagic, that are listed as being able to work at up to 4k @ 60hz, expensive and frustrating if so, but if I need to do that, then so be it.
Help! (copious amounts of Beer can be forwarded to anyone who manages to get me over this frustrating hurdle!)
dazzer169
Hi Dazzer169!
Thank you for your kind words – staying kind and helping each other is most certainly the most important thing for my website!
Unfortunately, I do not have the HDFury or 4K video sources for that matter.
I’m sure one of the guys here can help though.
hans
After you flash the firmware you have to unplug and replug it in to reboot it. Why are you using the Integral and the other device? Just use the Integral. Because you need 4K you likely need another firmware. You’ll want to ask a mod at the HDFury forum for which one youll need. If you get the right answer please do let us know what you find out that works please. Hope to do the same with 4K in the future. The storage space needed will be insane though.
Dominick
This model, available at AliExpress for only about $8 with free shipping, has been reported (on the Dutch version of this article) to strip HDCP as well.
It’s also reported that this one does NOT get hot, unlike some other models.
hans
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll give that one a shot.
james
Do you know if there is a US electric plug version?
J.B
Very good question, I had not thought about that. The ad doesn’t say anything about it, so you might want to contact the seller.
A side note though;
– Quite often these are simple 5V power supplies, and quite often they work in the 100-240V range,
– The poster (beneath the Dutch article) even used it without power supply (use short HDMI cable).
But asking the seller is definitely recommended – please let us know if they are available with a US plug in case you find out.
hans
Hello. I am in need of a bit of help here. I have a Sony KD65-9004A 4KTV. It is HDMI 2.0a compatible but according to Sony not HDCP 2.2 compliant. Is the HD Fury Integral what I would need to get the 4K signal to my TV?
Don
Hi Don,
since I do not have a HD Fury, maybe one of the visitors here that actually do have one, can comment on this?
hans
Yes.
Brian
You need the hack too right, to put it in the same folder as the original firmware but replace it with that one. Sucks HD Fury got shut down tonight.. First Slysoft now them :/
Dominick
Think its the firmware posted above but not sure. Currently asking them that now. Want to hook up a Tivo Bolt to record in 4K potentially. BTW HD FURY IS BEING SHUT DOWN.. actually its done TONIGHT, so if anyone here got an Integral, you just made it..
Dominick
Just ordered one now from their website so I think it hasn’t quite been shut down yet. Order went through so I’m assuming it’s all good. Thanks for the help.
Don
For those interested: two users confirmed that this HDMI splitter from AliExpress ($10/free shipping) works and strips HDCP.
The unit does not even seem to get warm, and one user even runs it without a power-supply.
hans
Thanks for this info, should I be worried though that in the description of the specs its says
HDCP pass-through
or
HDCP compliant
?
Nils
Hi Nils,
well, the Chinese merchants are horrible when it comes to a proper description, and on top of it, I suspect they’d like to not mention HDCP stripping too clearly. The one linked here has been tested by at least 2 people, but since these splitters have a come-and-go pattern when it comes to HDCP stripping, it will always be a little gamble if it will work properly. Then again, the price is right I would say for a gamble like this one, and seeing confirmations here would give me more comfort as well.
hans
Hey,
I can confirm that I bought the same splitter form Ebay and I was able to remove th HDCP and record from PS Vita throughh the Elgato HD.
Here is the link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262348290326
Thanks for everyones help :-)
Nils
Awesome Nils!
Thanks for posting and sharing! This will most certainly help others.
hans
About 6 months ago I bought one of the “cheapie” splitters (forget the brand, $19.95) and it worked fine for about two weeks. I did notice it seemed to be pretty hot. Then one day I saw weird flashes on the TV, and before I could do anything the screen went blank. Apparently something shorted in the splitter, and it fried the HDMI input in the TV. Had to resort to using the Composite connectors to use the TV. So just be aware! I did read a real horror story about use of a multi-port splitter in a Bar with multiple TVs where several of the big screen TVs were wiped out.– Just FWIW.
Fuller
Thanks for the heads-up Fuller!
I had not heard such horror stories before, I have however heard about a Raspberry Pi and a Pine64 blowing up HDMI ports, somehow.
Just being curious, but is all your equipment grounded?
hans
The ARC hdmi input on my 60″ plasma tv was fried by the Rogers Nexbox pvr when it malfunctioned and died. Rogers won’t pay for repair because I can’t prove their equipment caused the damage. Is there something available to protect hdmi inputs?
Brian
Man that s*cks …
Since I have never experienced this (knock on wood!);
1) Connect everything while all devices are powered OFF
2) Make sure all your devices are grounded if possible
That last one still baffles me, since a lot of TV’s have NO ground pin on their power cord. Maybe there is a smart reason for that, of which I’m not aware.
A friend of mine fried his HDMI ports by plugging the HDMI cables in while the devices were ON. Well, at least that’s the theory. Even though HDMI is supposed to be hot-swappable, manufacturers (Sony at least) state in their manuals that all devices must be OFF before connecting things (see this SuperUser.com post).
Then again, grounding might introduce HDMI ground loop hum. Never experienced that one either, but there a plenty posts online discussing that.
hans
I have had problems with this too. I ended up buy new cables from https://www.firefold.com. This helped. Not sure what happened to the old cables as they worked fine before. Anyway, I am good to go now!
Julie Hart
Hi Julie,
I’ve bought cables from FireFold before as well, and the experience has been good.
Another source for good cables is Amazon Basic cables.
hans
Just received this splitter (below) today,and tested it with the Elgato HD 60 from my Dish DVR. It worked instantly,with perfect HD quality on my pc/tv,with NO “HDCP” message. Sorry,I don’t a PS3 or Xbox to test it on.😔 Here is the splitter’s link (about $15 USD):PORTTA 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b compatible c1.4 3D 1080p swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
David
Hi David,
Awesome, and thanks for reporting.
Could you post the link again, it didn’t come through
hans
Sorry-I hope this link works,Lol.😃. PORTTA 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b compatible c1.4 3D 1080p swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
David
Awesome – thanks for taking the effort!
hans
Hi guys!
This Article was a life saver for me! I switched televisions when I moved and suddenly my PS3>Onkyo>LG TV (used to be a samsung) didn’t work anymore! Whereas the A.C. Ryan>Onkyo>LG TV still worked fine… So I didn’t have a clue what was happening. Didn’t even know there was copy protection protocols through HDMI!
I have just received the splitter below and got PS3>splitter>LG TV working in 2 minutes :D
THANKS A LOT! I will also try all devices>Onkyo>splitter>LG TV to see if that works (because in the meantime I also bought a Chromecast which also ‘denies’my tv)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDCP-HDMI-Splitter-Full-HD-1080p-Video-HDMI-Switch-Switcher-1X2-Split-1-in-2-Out/32545017175.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.51.JRqsDO
Rob
Awesome Rob!
Thank you and good to hear that you’ve got things up and running again
– and thank you so much for posting the link of the model you purchased! 
hans
just wanted to say that connecting the splitter after my onkyo receiver solved the problems with both the chromecast and the Playstation. So I didn’t need 2 splitters. Thought this might help some people. Thanks again!
Rob
Thank Rob for letting us know.
Glad you’ve got it to work!
That’s awesome!!
hans
Glad to hear some other are having success with other solutions but just to throw my 2cents in here, I have chased this dragon for years. My big hangup was video conferencing content share from devices that we own specifically but arent hdcp compliant. Some of these are hardwares being tested and created. The only solution I have found that consistently has allowed me to conduct my business…..is the ViewHD 1×2 MN3D. I have tested and tested over last few years now and for me, the only solution I have had faith in is that specific model
Kurt
Thanks Kurt for chiming in!
….
The more people confirm/test, the better
I assume you’re referring to this model?
hans
I am a little bit concerned. After reading the article and ALL or the responses above, I just learned that people believe that HDFury got shut down, but I came across this page after I ordered the Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz from their web site. The order went through just fine and I read some other recent news that they have filed a suit against Warner & Intel (http://www.digitaltrends.com/movies/legendsky-counterclaim-warner-bros-digital-content-protection/). So maybe they’re still alive and manufacturing new products. I don’t need to strip all HDCP, just go from a 2.2 device to a 1.4 TV. I am not sure that any of the splitters mentioned above would strip 2.2 because the article was written a while ago.
Can anyone confirm any splitters that remove HDCP 2.2 for 4K that don’t require something else to be hooked up to the other output of the splitter?
Chet
Hi Chet,
I’m not a HDFury owner, so maybe some of the other HDFury users can answer your question.
Also note that this article is indeed not intended to “rip” DHCP protected content, but to playback video on devices that are not HDCP compatible (like you do).
hans
Thanks Hans. I received confirmation that the Integral has shipped. I will report back my findings. I am definitely not trying to pirate anything, just simply trying to get 4K content onto my 4K TV with HDCP 1.4.
Chet
Hi Chet,
I’m curious if they are still shipping, so any info would be useful for other users
I realize you’re not using it for illegal activities, just wanted to write it below your post, so others might not get the idea that it was intended for that purpose. I myself am planning to make an ambilight project with this, and I have seen others with problematic HDMI equipment who found a good use for this as well,… so no illegal stuff either.
hans
I received a shipping notice first thing Monday morning. I am expecting it to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday). I will hook it up immediately, try some 4K content and report back. :)
Chet
I’d be excited as well
…. nice stuff you got there!
hans
Well, it arrived today (a day early) and really surprised me.
After spending the last 3 hours trying to get this thing to work with my 4KTV, I FINALLY got it set up properly. This was NOT a plug and play device. Honestly, I did so many things to try and get this thing to work. So many combinations of settings. Updated firmware, updated software, uninstall and reinstall of Netflix on the Roku, resetting to 4K UHD on the Roku, going between a Vudu UHD movie and Netflix just trying to get “Ultra HD 4K” to show up as an option…. I couldn’t even replicate my steps. BUT, I finally think I have been able to get the handshake to work.
The Roku now recognizes the Integra as a 4K device. The TV now recognizes the Roku and a 4K signal.
So, I don’t know how I did it, but this TV is finally displaying beautiful 4K content!
Chet
At least it’s good to hear that you’ve got it to work, and we now know that the device is capable of doing it!
Thanks for sharing
hans
A very interesting article – and lots of great input/replies to it, however, I couldn’t find anything that addressed the situation I’m about to built, so I wonder if you and/or your other readers could answer this question for me:
If a HDCP 1.2 Protocol Compliant splitter is used between a P.C. and a home theater video projector, would this permit the video file to play – regardless of the protection that may or may not be on the source video/DVD/BluRay??
Thanks
Ted
Using a HDMI Splitter, a PC and a projector, might or might not work.
This all depends if the projector is HDMI compliant and if the content played is HDCP protected or not.
If there is no HDCP protection used (and your PC is not adding this either), then it should just work.
However, with each PC/OS/Mediaplayer software combination, this can be different.
As for the standard, HDMI 1.2 vs 1.3, it’s a little unclear to me as of which standard HDCP is being added (see also this Wiki page).
This is exactly the reason why I started experimenting with these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP. It solves all the incompatibility issues – if you pick the right splitter. The latter is why we post our findings here with the cheap splitters we find all over the Internet.
So if you do not yet have a HDMI splitter: try one of these cheap ones listed here in the article and in the posts.
If you already do have one, then just hook it up and see what happens.
hans
Thanks Hans.
The projector does have HDMI in, so this is not an issue. In the past I have connected a lap-top to a TV via HDMI without any problems. I’ve also connected a HDD to a TV via USB, without any problems. This will be different in that I’ll be using a splitter so I can share the signal from my desk-top computer with a video projector, my PC monitor and a receiver (where one HDMI line will carry the audio).
As for “cheap” splitters – – I’m a firm believer that higher priced items don’t necessarily mean better – so I have no problem with this suggestion. That being said, I haven’t been able to find a low priced one among those listed on this site, that offer 1 in and 3 or 4 out (they all only have 1 in and 2 out), and the only ones that I can find which offer this make-up also are HDCP compliant, thus my question about the signal from the PC (which isn’t HDCP compliant) being able to pass through without any blockage problems from the splitter.
Ted
Hi Ted,
I can confirm that my cheap splitter, 1.5 years later, still works great … so cheap does indeed not always mean “junk”.
As for finding a 1×3 or 1×4 splitter,… I see that most just want a 1×2, so you’re right that you could not find much on larger models. However, when looking at AliExpress, I did find some. The result of my search can be found here.
I have not been able to test any of these, so it remains a gamble. This one however looks a lot like mine, just bigger, and advertises HDCP as well. Now I cannot guarantee that this one works of course, but it’s $15. It might be worth a try.
I did find a couple on Amazon as well, again: no guarantee that they will remove HDCP, but not super expensive either.
With this model a user suggests it strips HDCP, not sure if that is still the case of course. You might want to go through the reviews of the splitters presented in this Amazon Search and look for HDCP.
Amazon might be a few dollars more, but when located in the US, shipping will be a lot faster.
If you find a model that works, please let us know, so I can update the list in this article …
hans
Thanks again Hans,
I believe I’ll check out the PORTTA 4PET0104 splitter (from Amazon). I’ll let you know how this “cheap” unit works.
Ted
Ted
Thank Ted! That would be great!
I’ll keep my fingers crossed that this one does the trick.
One thing Ive noticed with 1×4 devices, as far as I could find info online: At least one of the output ports might need a HDCP compliant device. I understand that this typically should be port 4 or 3. But again; I have not had the chance to play with a 1×4 splitter. So your input would be great, even if that particular model fails.
hans
Hi Hal,
I’m about to disappoint you – – I’ve decided not to use a 1:4 splitter, so won’t be able to test out the one I was going to get. The reason for this change of plan is because further research has shown that I can get the same results by running a HDMI line from the PC to the receiver and then run a new line from the receiver to the projector – – apparently with-out any signal loss…
This brings me to a new question for you:
my current choice for a 1×2 splitterr is the VHD-1X2MN3D – – however, I notice that ViewHD has another splitter that has similar approval ratings – the Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto. Do you have any experience from this unit – and if so, even though I don’t plan to move up to 4k in the long range future, do you think it would be a wise choice, or would I be better off sticking with the older model (the MN3D)??
Ted
Ted
Hey Ted,
Just be aware that the route you are about to take may not work. I have several Onkyo receivers that I was trying to take the main HDMI output, as well as trying the secondary HDMI output, into a splitter with it’s main HDMI output going my Samsung LED TV and the secondary output to an HDMI video recorder. For whatever reason, I could never get it to work. Only when I took the HDMI output from a device (AppleTV, Amazon FireTV, Bluray player) into the splitter, it’s main output to the TV and the secondary output to a recorder did it work. You may have better luck with a different AV Receiver (and please post your findings here as well as model numbers for all the equipment used) as well as just going into a projector. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Trev
No worries Ted – you’re not disappointing me
After all, we all have to find our way to a working solution, and in the end that’s all that matters.
Sharing your findings here is appreciated though, since others might run into a similar scenario.
As for 4K splitters: I have no experience with those, since I have no use (yet) for 4K video. Maybe in the future when I decide to invest in a new TV
. Considering the price of a working 1×2 HDMI splitter (non 4K), I’d go with that one, unless the 4K splitter strips HDCP as wel of course and only if it’s affordable.
@Trev: Thanks for sharing!
On my old (5 years old) Yamaha this worked: HDCP source into HDMI-input of the receiver, and the HDMI output of the receiver to a splitter and the splitter to my TV. But I have heard of others running into the same situation as you did where the splitter had to be connected directly to the source that had HDCP protection.
hans
Further research has steered me away from the unit I was considering – not because it won’t work, but because, where I live (Canada), it was going to cost more than double, at Amazon.ca, than what Amazon.com sells it for….
I’ve since settled on a different unit, that’s also available from Amazon in both countries (link – supports HDMI 1.4, 4K, keeps audio te same as the source). One customer review said it will strip out the HDCP protection, but, for their purposes (gaming), it caused other problems.
We shall see…
Ted
Hey, Everyone! Thanks for the great info.
I am wondering about the following: Dish DVR > splitter > dual output (TV and computer storage). (My DVR is too full, and is not really for archiving.) I do not want to lose any content quality when copying for personal use later. All done by HDMI of course.
1. Any specific recommendations?
2. Any definitive word on keeping surround sound capability?
Thank you very much.
Michael
Your setup will work.
A few things you’d want to pay attention to, if you’d like to keep the surround sound:
1) The splitter will have to support surround sound (AC3/DTS/etc/etc).
Some of these splitters seem to downsample to just stereo, so you’ll have to pay attention to that.
2) For recording on your PC, you’d need some sorts of video grabber.
There are several different brands and models available, and I’m sure that not all of them support surround sound like AC3/DTS either. So you’ll have to pay attention with that one as well. Here is a list at Amazon for example, listing the HDMI “recorders” they have available. I recommend reading the specs (which rarely mention surround sound) and check the user comments.
Hope this helps.
hans
Yes, that helps a great deal.
I think the problem is going to be finding an inexpensive video grabber.
Thank you for the good direction.
Michael
Hi Michael,
I know it’s not top of the line, but I have been very pleased with my Elgato Game Capture HD.
It’s not the cheapest I have seen, app.$150, but it has performed very well for me on both MacOS X and Windows 10.
So far I’ve used it for:
– HDMI recording (tests for this article, and some game recording),
– screenshots from a HDMI input (for documenting some of my articles here),
– converting VHS to MP4.
It is not often mentioned that the Elgato has the option for analog input as well (component, super video and composite – if I recall correctly, for s-video a separate cable needs to be purchased). My sister had an echo of her first kid, and received it in 2003 on VHS and DVD. The VHS recording with the Elgato actually proved of a better quality than the DVD that had been made at the time.
In the past I have had Hauppauge, which used to have a stellar reputation, but long term driver support has been disappointing – not sure what the status is these days.
Pinnacle used to be my favorite on the Windows platform, but since I have switched to Mac, I can’t use it anymore. It also has been relatively quiet with that company, not sure if that’s a good or a bad thing.
I have tried a few cheap grabbers from eBay, AliExpress and the likes – they work, but in the end drivers become a problem and the quality isn’t the best.
I have found that searching for a “game capturing” device, shows quite a few good options.
Another good option might be one of these upcoming “video recorders” – a little box, that runs standalone, grabs video and the stores it on a USB drive.
hans
Thanks for that. How do you feel about the products from Epiphan? Not that I’m going to buy one; just curious.
Michael
Their website looks great and gives a good impression … but unfortunately, I have never had the pleasure of seeing, using or even hearing about their products. This obviously doesn’t mean their products are bad … I just have zero experience with them.
hans
I trying to use Directv on a video wall prossesor but the darn DCHP keep messing it up. Any ideas to get around it. Thanks I can really use some help
Heiko Langrehr
Hi Heiko!
I’m assuming you’re using HDMI to go from your DirecTV receiver to your video wall processor, and your video is 720 or 1080 (not 4K), then you could try one of the cheap HDMI splitters mentioned in this article.
You would not use it to actually split HDMI, but rather to remove the HDCP protection, so it will not interfere with your video wall processor.
So DirecTV receiver -> splitter -> Video wall processor.
The splitters have become very cheap, I’d guess around $10.
hans
This might be a little late for you, but I was trying to do the same thing. The only way I could solve it was to downgrade the signal to component and then back up again to HDMI. Video Wall looks great. From 20 feet away, the difference between that signal and a pure 1080 HD signal is almost negligible.
Joe
Thanks Joe. So the HDMI strpper thing didnt work for you? I have ordered both since the directv boxes have component out. Sure hope I can get this finshed and have my customer of my back. Dont know why the vido prossesers have it build in that they don’t cause the problem. I will up date as soon as I have the problem solved. FYI DIsh dose not have the same problems.
Heiko Langrehr
Not all splitters strip HDCP – I think that’s one of the major issues when picking one.
So before doing anything complicated, test if it really strips HDCP.
Please keep us posted on how things work out! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
hans
Thanks 4 your info
TIP:
I got the CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DHCP
herboer
Thanks 4 your info
TIP:
I got the CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DTCP
But watch out, the more recent V1,3b model doesn’t work
herboer
Thanks Herboer!
Seems the CKITZE BG-520 is a hit and miss. I noticed that the HDMI 1.3b compatible models seem to fail stripping HDCP.
Note: a good (and cheap) alternative source for splitters that strip HDCP is AliExpress.
hans
This thread has been really helpful to me. Thanks everyone!
I wanted to share some info for my specific situation. I have a nice Apple computer display that I wanted to use to watch Blu Rays from my BD Player. I’m playing only discs I’ve purchased and I’m not interested in copying them.
The monitor uses DVI-D and of course does not have HDCP. Typically, hooking things up it will flash thrice, which means “wrong video format.” Computer monitors and TVs are not the same devices in all ways. Based on the great info here I was able to get a setup that works pretty well.
Basically it’s BD player > Portta HDMI 1.3 Splitter > E-More HDMI to DVI & Audio Extractor > Apple Cinema Display.
I get good 2-channel audio from the Audio Extractor, which is as much as I need. You can probably get 5.1 cia coax digital but I have no way to test that.
It’s not perfect but it works. The aspect ratio of my display isn’t the same as 1080p, it’s a 1920×1200. The video image is at the top of the screen, with a strange repeat of the frame on the bottom 1″ of the screen. It’s easy to ignore and I haven’t figured out how to avoid it. In terms of color, I suspect it’s not quite right. Based on some research it’s likely that the display expects to get full-range 0-255 RGB. My BD player doesn’t have a ton of settings and it’s most likely sending it limited-range 16-235 RGB. No Deep Color possible via DVI Single Link. Still it looks fantastic generally. I’m going to put a piece of paper over it and call it done.
Here’s what did NOT work for me:
Sanoxy 1.3 Splitter – PCB says ‘HDMI 1.4 1to2 with 3D, Rev1.1″ even though listing was for HDMI 1.3. Generic and branded chips. Seller was not Speed LLC, should have tried that.
Ali Express 1.3 Splitter – PCB is different from above, says “20150710 , 0102”, Branded chips. Might work for you, though.
HDMI to DVI adapter (general type) in any configuration. Well, when used as follows I got a signal but it had lots of horiz pink lines. Not acceptable. BD Player > Portta Splitter > HDMI to DVI adapter > Apple Cinema Display.
Sony BD player. I got lucky and got a Samsung that worked. I believe it uses HDMI 1.4 vs the Sony’s 1.3, but it’s not listed in the manual. I was surprised that would make a difference.
Anyway I hope this helps anyone in my same situation. Based on my googling for my display, there are others out there.
Cheers
Robby
Thanks Robby for sharing your findings and contributing to the conversation!
Awesome!
And of course: great that you’ve got things to work.
Thanks again for sharing!
hans
Hey Robby, I’m trying to do the same. I wondered if you know why your two devices work? Why do you need both the a splitter and a DVI converter/extractor? I guess the Portta splitter is the one that does the magic (scaling?), and the converter is just so you get video on the correct connector and a bonus of audio out? @gingerbeardman on twitter
matt
Hi Matt,
I have not seen any (affordable) HDMI to DVI converters that support HDCP. As far as I know, most HDMI-DVI converters only pass on the digital video data from the HDMI connector straight to the DVI pins. So there is no logic (with most of them anyway) that converts the digital HDMI data to analog DVI pins, and there is nothing in place to handle HDCP. I assume your device can handle the digital DVI data, so the analog conversion may not be an issue for you. The HDCP however is, as it’s not part of the DVI standard.
Hence; a HDCP stripping splitter is needed to at least make the digital data unencrypted so your DVI device can handle it.
Hope this helps
hans
Hi Matt, Hans has it right, that it’s a two-stage process. I tried it with a HDMI to DVI-D passive adapter, just to get the pins to connect, coming out of the Portta splitter. That *should* have worked but at best it gave me bad quality signal as noted above. The HDMI to DVI-D active device seems to do something important that the passive doesn’t, though many have said the HDMI signal ought to be compatible with the DVI-D pins. I’ve been using this system I described above for 18 months or so and I’ve been really happy with it. It takes 30 seconds for the HDCP to get sorted out but after that it’s all good.
Good luck. Hopefully someone with better understanding of the signals can explain what’s going on. I was happy that I could get it done even though it took two devices. My video setup is on a rolling cart and when I built the shelf part I made a little area for the extra boxes to live so they and the extra cables aren’t visible, just the disc player and audio controls. There are ventilation holes so the devices don’t get too hot, especially important for the Portta device.
Robby
Thanks Robby!
hans
Hey Robby, I finally got the Portta 1×2 splitter and HDMI to DVI+Audio extractor, but no dice with my setup.
The only thing I can think is that this combo doesn’t work for 720p which is the resolution my device (SNES Classic Mini) is outputting. I’ll try to borrow a device that outputs 1080p that I can test with.
matt
Thanks for this very informative article and comments.
I’m currently looking for an HDMI splitter that will remove HDCP and manage EDID. I explained in detail my case on this post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/53uokh/need_help_finding_the_hdmi_splitter_that_suits_my/
Do you have any suggestion for a suiting model?
Turom
Ehm … I’ll admit that I had to lookup EDID …
Maybe some of the visitors have a suggestion, I honestly wouldn’t know.
hans
Hi chaps,
What im trying to achieve doesn’t seem to be listed here so far.
I have a 28″ viewsonic VX2880ml 4K monitor which will only do 30fps for 4k.
I am trying to find a way to use my amazon 4K firetv box on this monitor, but even with a couple of the switch boxes listed here (cant remember what they are im at work so will look later, the iSolem is one) I am unable to get this to work yet.
Question is, because the monitor is HDMI 1.4 am I out of luck anyway, or could this still be possible to get working?
russ collins
Hi Russ,
I do not have any 4K equipment, but as far as I recall HDMI 1.3 only supports up to 1080p (see Wiki, which indicates that 4K starts as of HDMI 1.4).
Now, this doesn’t mean you’re out of luck, it will just be a matter of finding the right splitter (if it exists).
Maybe others here have suggestions, since I cannot test this, but I’d assume AliExpress is the most likely source – read the comments, if any are available on AliExpress underneath the product info. The descriptions can be pretty bad.
If you find one, please post it here! I’m sure others would love to see one of those!
hans
I’ve been successfully using the SANOXY:
I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD connected to a DirectTV satellite receiver with the SANOXY. I suspect DTV changed their encryption last week to stop support covered by the SANOXY. I initially bought 2 of the SANOXY splitters (in case one failed). When I received them I verified both work. The 1st thing I did was test with the 2nd and now both fail.
It is very frustrating that broadcasters can now work with manufacturers to determine when your TV stops working.
I’m still researching and also in the process of testing an alternate solution and will post, here, with new information.
Jeff29
Hi Jeff,
thank you very much for reporting your succes.
Strange though that they no longer seem to work now …
I’m not sure that DirecTV can add to their firmware to not work with certain equipment.
As far as I understand how HDCP works, a “license key” (see: Wiki HDCP) is requested. Such a license is obtained by the TV manufacturer, and I would assume that blocking such a license, would mean that potentially a lot of TV’s will no longer work.
I can also not imagine that firmware of for example the DirecTV box has all possible [valid and invalid] licenses available, this would mean constant updating of the firmware since new licenses will be released frequently, not to mention that one would not know how many licenses would be available in the next year(s).
Maybe this FAQ gives ore info, but as far as I understand, when the license expires, the manufacturer simply must stop using the keys – so I assume that the expired key will still function. The manufacturer is simply not allowed to use it anymore in newly manufactured equipment.
Did you connect everything as you had done before when the splitter did work?
Did you try connecting a valid HDCP device (ie. your TV) to the “other” port on the splitter?
hans
Hans,
First, thank you for your time! You have taught me more about HDCP and what you say aligns with my results.
I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD. When DTV initially turned on HDCP it stopped working. I know this because I spoke with DTV and they told me the day they turned on HDCP (which matched the time the 1540HD stopped displaying video and gave me the HDCP error).
When it stopped again I just assumed DTV changed their version of HDCP and eliminated systems supporting older versions of the spec. Yes, I know the spec covers backwards-compatibility but I have read that coverage can be inadequate.
I ordered several other HDCP strippers and tested. All failed.
In the process of testing and pulling my hair out I finally went back to a basic premise for testing and removed my scan-converter (DVDO iScan Duo) to direct-connect my DTV HR20 and TV (over an extender). The TV started working, again.
I immediately plugged back in the original SANOXY (from the link, above) and it worked, too.
Last year the DVDO engineer told me I needed to upgrade my firware because of an HDCP issue. Everything was working so I didn’t bother–and I forgot until this process queued the memory.
I will be upgrading my DVDO, ASAP! I anticipate it will resovle the issue given everything appears to be working when I remove it from the chain.
I will post my results.
Thank you, again, both for your initial post sharing valuable information and for your care in following up and continuing to help!
Jeff29
Thanks Jeff29, for the compliments, and you’re most welcome. I actually enjoy writing articles and interaction with visitors. If only I could do this for a daytime job
….
Good to hear you’ve got the issue resolved. I guess the faulty firmware with DHCP issue could cause unexpected results, as in your case. Glad it’s fixed now,…
hans
[…] bit tricky because not all HDMI splitter have this “feature” more about that here link. Alternative 1: you can you use this kind of HDMI to SDI converters link and extend the range a […]
No link or references showing up in your post.
Michael
Hi Michael,
what post are you referring to?
hans
The one directly above from PingBack: coolquentin.com
Michael
Sorry if this seems to be a repeat ?, I just don’t see my application. I wish to record from my PC’s HDMI video output. If I put the easycap HD video capture box after the video card, then into the mentioned 2 port HDMI splitter, with 32 gig flash drive, it seems this setup would work… ( I realize the splitter is not a guarantee fix) I also have a receiver with HDMI inputs & an HDMI output, so not sure if I could use this in place of the splitter since it grabs the HDMI source then pushes it out to my flat screen. Thanks for any help/advice in advance…
timman
Hi Timman,
I’m not 100% sure what you’re trying to do, so forgive me if I misunderstood.
You’re trying to record HDMI out from your PC on a HDMI capture box. Seems to me that PC -> Spliiter -> Capture Box, should work, if the splitter strips HDCP. Your receiver most likely will not strip HDCP though. You could have the 2nd output of the splitter go to the receiver though, to monitor the output rom your PC.
hans
Spot on! Thank you! Yea this is what I am trying to accomplish, without using software, since they always want you to upgrade, what ever version of capture software one may purchase + a fee. Just didn’t know about hdcp till now. Thanks again!
timman
Trying to get video out of an X1 Comcast cable extender box that only has hdmi out to an older plasma monitor that does not have hdmi. Understand the hdcp issues but looking for a source to make this work without spending a lot of $$$. Anyone find a reliable fix?
Mike
This seems simple if I understand it correctly. You need to convert your HDMI signal into whatever signal the old monitor accepts. Just get an adapter of the appropriate type.
Michael
Mike might be right though that HDCP will cause issues …
So I’d recommend a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, and then from there have the adapter as suggested by Michael.
Most of these adapters do not handle HDCP … unless one or the other Chinese company produces these haha – if you find one: please post it here!
hans
Of course, that is correct. However, IMHO, we first need to figure out the physical connection problem. Any converter to address HDCP issue would come next, as finding an all-in-one solution is more difficult. Further, we do not know if the old monitor can even handle HDMI, and old monitors do not usually do so.
Michael
I have an Xfinity X1DVR connected to a Hauppauge PVR2 through a ViewHD (VHD-1X2MN3D) splitter just purchased from Amazon (Nov 2016). At first I couldn’t get it to work, but then I remembered what was said in the “Cheap HDMI splitter section” of the article:
****”Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.+****
As soon as I completed the connection from the splitter’s empty output, to my TV, all worked fine. Earlier,I had gone into the X1 settings and set it’s output to 1080p60, which I think is a necessity for the PVR2 box to work.
So in summary, my connections are:
X1-HDMI-output>ViewHD-input>ViewHD-output2>PVR2-input (PVR2-output stays empty and does not get any connection)
and
ViewHD-HDMI-output1>TV-HDMI-input (This “bypass” connection to the TV was the key for my success)
twincam
Awesome!
Thanks for posting TwinCam!
hans
This working just fine for me HDMI 1.3 1×2 1 to 2 1080P 3D Splitter Amplifier 1 in 2 out for Dual Dispaly .
KJELL JANSSON
Hi Kjell!
Thanks for confirming – awesome and happy to hear it worked for you!
Anyone wondering where this link is: here.
hans
I tried to make my Elgato HD60 game capture work via HDMI with my PS3 using just a 4 x 1 HDMI switch and it worked perfectly! I didn’t have to buy any converter or HDMI splitter. Also, I don’t even need my Elgato software open or running to use my PS3 through it so that’s another reason that I don’t need any HDMI splitter.
Joe
What brand and model switch did you use?
Michael
Etekcity model number 025706344616. The manufacturer Etekcity is on eBay with the same exact member name “etekcity”. It’s a real bang for your buck for only $30. It supports 4K and 3D. It has PIP (picture in picture) option and even a wireless remote control (battery included).
Joe
Thanks for reporting Joe!
Do you happen to have a link? When I looked for this seller, I noticed quite a lot of HDMI splitters and switches, some looking very familiar haha … but anyhoo: would you mind posting a link here?
hans
I only found 13 results on eBay when searching for the model number which all show the exact same product. The lowest price on there is directly from the manufacturer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etekcity-4K-x-2K-4-Port-High-Speed-HDMI-Switch-with-IR-Wireless-Remote-Control-/311750591375?hash=item4895c8838f:g:7aQAAOSwcUBYPUzc
Joe
Thanks Joe!
It even supports picture-in-picture? Nice!
hans
This web page has saved me an enormous amount of grief. In Australia, 11 years ago I bought a very expensive Pioneer Plasma HDTV (cost $6,100 in 2005). At the time, everyone said pay extra for a 5 year warranty, which I did. It is still in perfect condition with a great image. However, with advances in software & most of what I watch is satellite TV, suddenly a couple of years ago, I was unable to watch anything using a HDMI cable, because of HDCP blocking the signal. So for a couple of years, I have had to be content with SD TV. I contacted Pioneer, who no longer manufacture HDTVs, & they had no solution other than to go and buy a new TV. Unable to purchase the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter (Model VHD-1X2MN3D) here in Australia, I ordered it online through Amazon. Within a week it arrived (had to pay $10 for postage but worth every cent). Also had an incompatible electrical plug, but easily solved. Now I have perfect HD viewing on all my satellite channels (about 150, most of which are HD)…… so happy with the outcome & this smart little device!…. highly recommended :-)
Robert Lucas
Hi Robert,
see, THAT is just awesome!
This is exactly the reason why I started digging into this topic.
Nice, and super cool to hear that this fixed you problem, and made your TV all good again.
hans
Hans, I have followed this with great interest. I do not quite understand however if the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter will do what I need. I have a Comcast cable box that I want to connect to a Sony BDVE580 HDMI in and then from HDMI out to a HDFuryII on a Pioneer TV. The cable box and the Blue Ray player both work separately on the HDFury. If I plug the cable box into the Sony input I get nothing and I assume it is about HDCP. May I think that the ViewHD will take the output of the cable box and give it a handshake so that it can then pass clear HDMI out on just one output with the other not connected?
Hopefully, Tom
Tom
Hi Tom,
It took me a while to realize that the Sony BDVE580 is actually a home theatre set.
So you have multiple HDMI devices connect to the Sony, and the HDMI out to your TV.
Now certain home theatre devices is not the best when it comes to HDMI and HDCP.
So this could very well be related to your problem.
You could hookup a regular HDMI capable TV to the output of your Sony to see if your Sony is to blame or not.
I’m not familiar with the HDFury2, but as far as I can see here, it could be loaded with specific HDCP stripping firmware.
(any HDFury user who would like to chime in here?)
It could also be that your Sony is to blame. In that case you’d want to feed the video signal (from the Comcast box for example) through one of these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP, and have the output of the splitter go to your Sony. I’d suspect that the output of your Sony’s HDMI-out would then work with your HDFury.
What also might work, is grabbing the output of the Sony -> Splitter -> TV.
It will take a little experimenting to see what is causing the issue to begin with.
The good news though is that these splitters are really cheap.
hans
Hi,
Thanks for this article!
I got the BYTECC HMSP102K 1×2 HDMI 3D 4K2K Splitter at the local Fry’s. I tried the Bytecc with the AverMedia EzRecorder 130 and Sony Blu-ray BD-BX37 player (trying to copy a wedding video).
Unfortunately, the Bytecc didn’t work. EzRecorder could see the wedding video, but complained that the copy protection wouldn’t let it record it.
Guess I’ll try the SANOXY from Amazon.
.
Ken
Thanks Ken for reporting that the BYTECC did not work for you.
Keeping my fingers crossed the SANOXY does work …
hans
Hi Hans,
I ended up getting the Portta PET0102 HDMI Splitter 2 Port 1×2 from Amazon.
From my initial tests, I’m happy to report that the Portta device worked!
I was able to make a recording of my wedding video blu-ray dvd.
Ken
Awesome !
Thanks Ken for posting your findings and a link to the splitter that worked for you!
It’s much appreciated!
hans
Hey Ken, What exactly was the way you set up your system? I’ve found that with some of the 1×2 splitters, if you do not hook up output 1 to an HDMI port on your TV that the encryption still passes and will keep you from recording. My LED HDTV has 5 inputs, one of which I use for the splitter’s first output with the 2nd output going to my recording device.
Let us know as much info about how you have everything configured. Thank you…
trev
Hi Trev,
Thanks for replying!
I had the BYTEC set up this way: Sony Blu-Ray player -> BYTECC -> Acer Monitor.
If the BYTECC needed to be connect to a TV, then the setup wouldn’t be very convenient for me.
Ken
Again, Many thanks to Hans for setting up this blog!! I still follow every new post, even after posting my findings and solutions…
trev
Thanks Trev for following and contributing! It’s very much appreciated!
hans
I got a 4K Amazon Fire TV and a Seiki SE42UMS 4k TV. The ad for the TV said HDCP v2.2 support, but it ended up not having it… Was very frustrating. I ended up taking a discount refund and kept the TV in hopes of getting it to work.
Any suggestions?
Jordan
Hi Jordan,
I don’t know about HDMI 2.2, since I do not have a device that requires this. Does the Amazon FireTV 4K need this?
My 2 Android boxes that do 4K might require it, so in that case I’d say using a HDCP stripping splitter, or a HDCP stripping HDMI switch, might work for your scenario just fine.
hans
Try using an Etekcity 4 x 1 HDMI switch. It supports 4k and 3D. I use it to connect my PS3 to Elgato game capture to 4k TV. It works flawlessly. According to known HDCP handshake via HDMI, it shouldn’t work but IT DOES.
Joe
Thanks Joe!
The more confirmations and new info we get the better! Thanks for posting!
hans
So is there an updated hdcp fix firmware for the integral?
Tyler
Hi Tyler!
Unfortunately, I do not own a HDFury Integral, hopefully one or the other HDFury owner here might be able to provide info for you.
hans
Portta PET0102 HDMI Splitter 2 Port 1×2 v1.3 work fine whit Sky Italy decoder and Atomos Ninja 2 recorder.
Hi quality 1080p 25 fps. Second output like TV HD not necessary. HDCP is removed whit 1 input and 1 output.
Mokona
Hi Mokona!
Thank you for confirming that the Portta PET0102 is working for you as well – excellent!
hans
Hello.
Any idea if my problem can be related to hdcp? I have pretty old video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e. It works fine with ps4. However, with brand new wbox hd3 digital receiver (terestial) I’m able to see only black screen. Signal strenght and quality is perferct. Test and Program guide comes rhtough but as soon as start wathing actual tv Program, black screen!!! Just switching HDMI cable to by older digital receiver Topfield tf5100pvr the tv is just fine. I have tried with splitter 2 to 1 (as I would need ps4 and wbox) to my video projector.
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
This does sound like a HDCP problem. I could be wrong of course, but your Program Guide and such are visible, just as soon as you watch regular TV it produces a black screen.
If you’d be using a splitter to remove the HDCP protection, then keep in mind that the splitter is designed to connect 1 video source (PS4 for example), which’ video signal then is repeated over two output (for example 2 TV’s).
In your setup you’d probably want something like this:
WBOX -> HDMI Splitter (as mentioned in this article) -> HDMI switch (input 1) -> Projector
and
PS4 -> HDMI switch (input 2)
This way the HDCP is stripped from the WBOX, and you can use the HDMI switch to switch between the 2 video sources (PS4/WBOX).
hans
Hi,
just want to summarize my case here. You can see some discussion about the topic in this forum but as said, here is the summary about the initial problem and the solution!!! Yes, I got it working.
So I have pretty old video project Panasonic pt-ae700e with 10m long HDMI cable. It has only one single HDMI input. I have 2 input devices PS4 and wbox hd3 digibox for tv programs. Naturally I needed HDMI switch so I purchased http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en. With that only wbox hd3 is working. PS4 gives black screen.
So I purchased (based on the recommendation by Hans in this forum) Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9642JS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). With this I’m able to stream from digibox and PS4.
wbox hd3 HDCP v.1.4a and PS4 2.x (I think).
Thanks Hans!
Janne
Thanks Janne for posting “the solution” here!
Glad to hear things are working now!
hans
Hi Hans,
thanks for motivation kick You gave via this forum! I have had the splitter for some weeks but get tired as it did not work. Now I tried it again, and maybe I did something differently. Now Wbox is working. But PS4 is not!
I have Delock http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en
Maybe I need to try some other PS4 compatible. Some googling with “PS4 compatible hdmi splitter” gave for example
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
Janne
Hi Janne,
I do not have much experience with the PS4, but I would assume that any HDMI splitter that strips HDCP should do the trick.
If you scroll up, one of the users uses a HDMI switch instead if a HDMI splitter to strip HDCP – I have not been able to test this though.
I can imagine that there are 2 major groups for HDMI: Those from before HDMI 2.0, and those starting at HDMI 2.0 – maybe your PS4 prefers HDMI 2.0. (not sure if you have a PS4 or PS4Pro)
hans
Hi,
Thanks Hans. So I might have an issue around v2.0? Now with Delock splitter PS4 is out but Wbox is working…
Options to go on:
1) Firmware upgrade for video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e
2) Find some HDMI switch that might work
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
How exactly did you wire everything?
My guess is you would need two HDCP strippers (either a HDMI splitter or HDMI switch). One for the PS4 and one for the WBox.
hans
Hi,
is it about hdcp versions?
wbox is 1.4a. This is a fact. Needs stripper in order to work.
PS4 probably is 2.0a (not a fact but PS4 supports HDR according to tech specs and HDR support is in 2.0a). PS4 does not work with stripper but without does.
So I would need 2 strippers and probably they should be a different brand. Did I get it right?
– Janne
Janne Korpela
Current setup is (with Delock 2 to 1 splitter):
WBOX -> Delock input 1,
PS4 -> Delock input 2
from Delock 10m long HDMI to Projector input
I have only HDMI 1 input in video projector.
Reg,
Janne
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
Ehm, I’m a little confused … sorry …
Did you mean “Delock High Speed HDMI Splitter 1 in > 2 out” – offering 1 input and 2 outputs,
or a switch “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output?
The devices we talk about here are the “splitters” (1 input, 2 outputs).
The intend of these splitters is to have one video source, and two devices to display (TV/Projector/Recorder). Since it strips HDCP (with certain models), quite a lot of folks use this just as that: a stripper – meaning that only one input and one output is being used (the second output nit being used).
The only device that switches between 2 inputs, that has been mentioned in the comments as it might strip HDCP, is the Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High-Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control.
It seems to me that you’re looking for something like this (2 video sources on one projector)?
Also note: I have not been able to find any confirmation that any of the “DeBlock” branded models will strip actually HDCP.
hans
If the PS4 works without stripper, then you would not need one …
How is your setup right now?
PS4 goes to HDMI-in of the Sony,
WBox to HDCP stripper,
HDCP stripper to Sony HDMI-in,
and finally Sony HDMI-out to TV?
hans
Hi,
I need and I have the device “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output”.
Well, at least seems, that the switch is helping with Wbox. Now it is working. But PS4 with the switch is not working (as it is when directly connected to projector).
It is strange that PS4 is not working with the switch. Cna it be actually something else than HDCP issue? Like switch causing some noise or quality so that PS4 signal does not get through? As I said, wbox DHCP is version 1.4a and seems that PS4 is 2.x. I have 10m long HDMI cable between switch and projector.
Probably I will try Etekcity.
Reg,
Janne
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
Unfortunately, I have no experience with switches like that.
It’s even stranger that the PS4 just works without switch, but refuses to work with switch.
Does the PS4 work with just the 10m HDMI cable? 10m is quite a long cable.
Maybe you can run a quick test with a much shorter cable?
You could be right about HDMI 1.2 and 2.x – maybe the switch is not HDMI 2.x compatible.
Seems you’d might have to test another HDMI switch, this EtekCity switch claims to be PS4 compatible, and at least one user here confirmed it to strip HDCP. If that switch does not strip HDCP, then you could still add one of the HDMI splitters mentioned here to strip HDCP for the WBox.
hans
Hi Janne,
I was just digging through the comments at Amazon and found that 2 users complained about HDCP issues with the EtekCity – and others seem to have zero issue with HDCP. Since one of the users here confirmed this EtekCity at eBay to work, which looks identical, you might want to get that one. Then again; with Amazon you’d be able to return the product in case it doesn’t work … but if you’re not in the US, then that might still be problematic. (this is the same product with Amazon in Germany)
hans
Wish me luck!
I have no intent on recording but I want to use my second monitor/capture card as a pass-through so I can watch my chrome cast or apple tv while playing some grindy games. I’ve tried just running Netflix at the same time but it causes lag as it’s taking some bandwidth from my PC and running iTunes does me no good because my movies are saved onto the same hard drive and that destroys my frames per second.
Ripley
Hi Ripley,
Let us know when you get it to work and what splitter (link) you’ve used!
hans
I purchased the Portta PET0102 from Amazon recently, and I can report that this device is fully HDCP-compliant.
Both output ports are passing HDCP.
For reference, the board is marked ‘HZ’ and ’16 15′ on the top side, and ‘213 PCB v2.0’ on the bottom side, and uses the Lontium LT86102SX chip
Milton Waddams
Hi Milton!
Good to hear this worked for you and thank you so much for the very detailed confirmation and confirmation on the Portta PET0102!
hans
Sorry, this was not a confirmation that the Portta PET0102 strips HDCP. Quite the opposite.
Milton Waddams
Milton, I believe you’ve gotten the wrong idea about this subject. It is not about the many products that conform to the HDCP restrictions, but about finding the few that allow full signal to pass thru without restriction.
Michael
Sorry for misunderstanding – it’s all in the fine details …
I assumed you meant that it did strip HDCP, my bad.
Well, as Michael said: we’re here trying to find units that do strip HDCP …
In that light: your information is still very good!
Knowing that a particular model does NOT strip HDCP.
hans
I bought the Portta PET0102 new off Amazon from seller
JOBSTEVETTT on Dec 25th 2015 and it worked great to strip HDCP. I liked it enough I bought 2 more Jan 15, but this time via Amazon Warehouse deals, and they did not work. I order again from Amazon Jan 18, from JOBSTEVETTT and that one strips HDCP. It appears there are 2 different hardware versions of the Portta. I opened them both up and it appears that the one that DOES strip has 2 chips in it with silver aluminum heat sinks on both. The one that does strip only has 1 chip and no heat sink. So watch out and I would not buy any Warehouse deals for this item.
Dave
Awesome find Dave and thank you so much for sharing your research! Nice!
hans
Also, when plugged into my PC the Portta that DOES strip showed up named “Silicon Image”. The splitter that did NOT strip showed up as “LONTIUM”
Dave
How did you connect it to your PC?
hans
I bought this Splitter:
Revesun 1×2 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080p HDCP 2.2 4k2k Ultra High Definition Splitter HDMI Box DVI 1.0 3D
I can confirm that it removes both HDCP 1.4 and 2.2
TOM
Thanks Tom for confirming and posting a link! Much appreciated!
hans
thanks for info – my question is – I have a Satbox – which then I would connect to splitter – then just one HDMI out of splitter to capture box then out to TV
So I do not need two TV’s ??
john
Hi John,
if I understand you correctly; satbox -> splitter, one output of the splitter to capture device, and the other splitter output to TV. Yes this would work, and you would not need 2 TV’s. It would even work if you would connect only one device (TV or capture device).
hans
I have a Magnavox MDR515H 500GB HDD DVD-R. I purchased it to record the Steelers football games and it worked great on the old cable box. Now Comcast switched me with the new Xfinity X1 cable box and it won’t record . My Magnavox has a 500GB hard drive in it so I rather use that in case I want to burn a disk of the football game. Also if I ever return the X1 I will lose all my movies I saved on it’s hard drive. My problem is that my Magnavox HDD recorder DVD-R only has composite and a S-VHS input on it. It has HDMI and Component outputs but I don’t see how that could help. The S-VHS output was doing a good job on the old Cable box but the new X1 don’t have it. I can’t figure a way to get the video audio signal into my Magnavox unless there is some kind of HDMI out to S-VHS splitter. What a predicament this is. I paid almost $400.00 for my Magnavox recorder so I can record the game and now I can’t do it. Also would I need a view splitter and a Elgato to make this work?
mark
Hi Mark,
As for loosing your recording;
I doubt this will be a problem. Best way to test this is, if you want to be 100% comfortable with it, is to disconnect all comcast/xfinity stuff en see if you can still watch the recordings. They will most likely still work.
As for your new setup;
You’ll need a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, and a HDMI to S-Video or Composite converter.
I’d guess you’ll be set for less than $50 – if you find the right HDMI splitter of course.
You would not need an Elgato – that you’d only need if you want to record to a PC or laptop.
hans
Thanks for the reply.
I removed the cable box and screwed the coaxial cable wire onto my Magnavox recorder and it did record some channels but the picture was terrible. I’m guessing that any of the cable boxes make the picture better by changing the signal to HD or at least amplifying the signal. When I used to record the Steelers I would go on a HD channel using the cable box and the picture was awesome. I’m sure I wasn’t recording in HD since it was coming in through the S-Video port. I tried to get my old Comcast box back that had the S-Video on it and they said there not using them anymore. I can’t seem to find a HDMI to S-Video converter. You would think for $400.00 for that Magnavox recorder that it would have a HDMI or at least Component inputs on it!
Thanks.
mark
Hi Mark,
yeah, conversion back and forth will not produce a nice image quality.
As for HDMI to Composite, you can look at these at Amazon – I’d checkout the reviews though and you’d still need a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, otherwise the converter will most likely not work. The conversion will of course degrade the image quality.
It would be better to use something that can record HDMI, I have seen a few smaller devices at Amazon (link), but none of these would have the convenience of your current DVR. And on that note: recording with Composite or S-Video is rather outdated. Some setups do well with Component signal, but recording HDMI straight would be the best.
I personally do not record any shows or movies, I use it to get screenshots from devices (like settings menu etc). The Elgato Game Capture HD is what I use for that and with the right HDMI splitter I can capture/record movies or games.
hans
Hi Hans,
Thanks for writing back so soon.
I have to admit I am so confused. I am just going to buy a new media center that could take a 4TB hard drive and put all my movies on it. I found one on the link you provided me called the Happauge 1212. It has Component on it which I’m not crazy about but I think the cable companies only broadcast in 1080I or 720P anyway.
I’m not sure if I would need a splitter for Component. I doubt it.
I have also been reading about that app called Kodi. It looks cool but I guess I would need a different type of media box.
I don’t know if this is correct or not but does one box record games and television from a cable or xbox and another type of media box captures internet video.
Since you showed me that link I have been reading about these boxes all day long.
Anyway, Thanks for the help.
Mark
Mark
Mark,
All you have to do is check with the cable company in which you are interested and ask the maximum resolution you wish to view (record). That way there is no guessing.
But it goes further than that. Everything is continually changing, and higher resolutions are always coming about, so It is wise to be prepared instead of always having to buy yet another piece of equipment. 4K is here to stay, for example.
Sometimes we must have more than one combination of equipment and connectors to cover all the different arrangements of sources and targets. Simply make a list of what you need to do, and see the lowest number of components that will get you what you need to do.
Michael
Hi Mark,
Yeah, it is a confusing world when it comes to video, and the last few years things change faster than ever before it seems.
So, your goal is to record shows/games/movies that have been broadcasted.
Option 1 is to buy a DVR from the cable company, which is typically expensive and you cannot move the recordings to (for example) your computer.
Since more and more broadcasts are in HD (soon 4K I suspect), you’d want a device that can record from an HDMI source. Most of these however require that the signal is not encrypted (HDCP). I have seen that most do support 1080p (HD) and very few support 4K, but that will be a matter of time.
To remove HDCP you’d need one of these HDMI splitters that strip HDCP. I suspect that these splitters present themselves as a legit HDMI device, so HDCP can be removed. The HDMI signal with HDCP removed is then shared over the 2 or more HDMI-out connections. It seems more of these are surfacing that support 4K and all of them support 1080p (HD).
For recording, you can select a number of standalone devices (I’m sure TiVo has something to offer, and there are a bunch of cheap $100-range devices), or you can use a small computer with a game recording device (like the Elgato Game Capture). Most of these recorders do not support 4K yet …
For playback you can choose from quite a long list of applications, but Kodi is indeed one of the media center applications that I really like. For an application like Kodi, it doesn’t really matter what resolution you’re using.
I think, in the end, it comes down to what you’re really looking for and how easy it should be in use.
hans
Hey Guys,
I called Comcast and they said I am getting 1080I. I just don’t think I’m going to be happy with 1080i because I love a high quality picture. I have a 4K TV and I would love to see it at 4K. I asked Comcast If they are going to broadcast in 4K and they said there working on it but of course it’s going to be more money. I already pay $218 a month and I have been a long standing member as they put it, so why can’t they give me a break on the bill! I’ve been paying them since 1997. Now I’m sure it was at a lower price 20 years ago but still, if you think just in 2016 I paid them $218 X 12 months = $2616.00 x 20 YEARS = 52 thousand dollars. The reason I brought this up was to show you that I have got to cut the cord. The iceing on the cake is when I told them I don’t want there cable but I’ll keep their Internet. So they doubled the price on the internet service because I broke up the “bundle.” I don’t care for them no more. I have got to get a good HDMI Media box. I have to admit I don’t know if I’m able to get Kodi up and running. Why does Kodi come out with new versions so often? I must of watched every YouTube video and they all have a different way to install it. Well I am ready to buy a media box now but there are so many. I’ll pay up to $250.00 if you happen to come across one that is reliable. http://www.wirelesshack.org/best-hardware-boxes-to-run-kodi-media-center.html Number 1 of all boxes is the NVidia Shield TV Home Pro Media Server. It did get some bad reviews on YouTube though. Let me know what you think and once again I really appreciate it.
Thank You.
Mark
Mark
Hi Mark,
Oh I soooo understand the frustration with Comcast/XFinity – I’m a customer of theirs as well, and cannot say that I’m impressed.
They gave me a “new” receiver and it didn’t even have HDM, to then found out that the receiver was manufactured more than a decade ago.
The “upgrade” to HDMi would cost me $85/mo extra. And then they wonder why customers get pissed with them.
To cut the cord and not get screwed over by money hungry Comcast, I kept the lowest and cheapest TV bundle. I very rarely use it (twice so far in the past 8 months). With my cheapest bundle, Internet is still expensive (same speed I have here is app. 1/5 of the price in Europe).
The easiest way to get started with Kodi is by using an old PC – you can run Windows, MacOS or Linux, it doesn’t really matter which OS for KODI.
To keep it simple and very much optimized, is by using OpenElec or LibreElec (I prefer LibreElec!). Both include everything you need to run KODI, Operating System included. You follow their installation instructions (wipes your harddrive and install everything you need to quickly boot into Kodi).
Once you get familiar with Kodi, you can start looking for alternatives.
Cheap Android boxes, like these, are very affordable and work pretty good. The downside however is that it’s always quite a puzzle to find out which one is “best” and I can guarantee you that with future updates the might or might not work.
I have heard good and bad things about nVidia Shield as well – I’m still hestitant to get one of those.
At the moment I use on of the cheap Anrdoid boxes (K1 Plus), but the 5 years before that I used a small AMD based computer (size of a cigar box). That worked very well, but with HVEC/h.265 this little guy couldn’t keep up anymore.
Intel has a few NUC models are very suitable for this purpose by the way – but you’ll have to do some homework, so you won’t pick a model that can’t keep up with the new video standards (4K, HVEC/h.265). Typically these are more expensive than the cheap Android boxes (I bought my on Cyber Monday for $39).
If you want to sue only NetFlix and/or Amazon Prime, then consider getting something like the Amazon Fire TV (box or stick).
Hope this helps
hans
Hey Mark,
You are struggling with the issue that so many of us have. We need three things (in this order), Internet, telephone and television.
I solved my television needs by goingwith Dish. I have had their welcome package for as little as $17.85 per month. That is with a couple $5 discounts and as many channels as I need. Recently I lost one $5 discount, but that is still okay. Almost every month there are free movies, so one can record a bunch
for later use. One can add what they want, but so much is available on the ‘Net that it doesn’t make sense to buy more.
To get a good deal on 4K, check out https://www.dish.com/4k-programming/ and let me know and I’ll get you a $50 off coupon.
Telephone comes cheap via VOIP over the ‘Net; as little as ~$8 per month for all the services and coverage one could ever want.
That leaves the Internet. One must simply find the best deal available. That’s how that goes. The standard is that one should be able to get it for $1 per MB of speed and unlimited data. Just see how close you can get in your area.
I am in a very rural area and my experience was the local Frontier phone company and their associated satellite Internet at exorbitant cost. Poor service and high prices. Never go there.
So I bought a generic cellular antennae from SmoothTalker ($130 plus cables and connectors) and a Novatel router from Amazon for Verizon Wireless. I can plug my analog phones into the back of the router, transfer my number to Verizon and get unlimited data. Problem solved for now. Still not cheap, but acceptable in comparison, especially as it is now unlimited.
However, the local electrical cooperative is stringing fiber on their poles. Within thirty days or so, we will have 25MB up and down for $50 per month. Sometimes $2 per MB is the best there is.
This is the current state of things in the expensive USA. Never buy a bundle. Always shop around. Good luck with your search.
Michael
HI Hans, and Guys, Thanks for the great advice.
After I read your article I got my old computer out and tried to wipe it and reinstall Windows 10. The problem is It’s been awhile and I can’t remember my user password. I do remember the user pin but for some crazy reason it keeps asking me for my user password. I e-mailed Microsoft and they said, that was called a digital license for windows 10, that they were giving away for free. They also said if I wipe my computer it will ask me for my windows password when I try to reinstall Windows,and if I don’t know it I might not be able to redownload windows 10. They also said to use my pin now, and if it says I am “Verified” then it will work when I go to reinstall. Of course it didn’t work for me. It wanted my password instead of my users login pin. If Microsoft would of told me this “important detail” when I set up the computer I would of used a password. Now I might have to buy a key from them. https://www.groovypost.com/how-to-use-digital-license-to-manage-and-activate-windows-10-anniversary-update-licenses/
One other question, by using a computer instead of a Android box, do you need to have the computer on all the time? Or do you just put the computer next to your TV and turn them both on when you want to watch a movie from Kodi?
I hope these questions don’t sound stupid to you guys because I am a newbie, and I am also going through Chemo which makes it hard for me to think. I watch a lot of television because I stay in the house all day, but with all my medical bills I just can’t pay Comcast no more. I got a free cell phone for being disabled so all I need is Internet and cable. I kind of have the same problem as you Michael, If I drop my Comcast internet I won’t be able to find anything else where I live. I also thought about the dish and Direct TV but they want me to sign a contract and after the first year the price goes up. The bottom line is if Kodi is as good as they say then that is what I want. I’ll get this computer working or I’ll get a Android box. Hans, I don’t know if I read this right because it’s 5am but are you saying that Openelec and Libreelec are Operating systems which means I won’t need windows? I will definitely have to look into that tomorrow first thing because that would be awesome.
Thanks so much.
Mark
Mark
Mark,
Sorry about all your problems. While this is not a general computer forum, all I can say is download a free operating system like Fedora or Xubuntu, burn it to a DVD and boot off of it to give it a try. It will not do anything to your computer unless you decide, after trying it, to install it permanently. It won’t cost a penny, except for the blank DVD. Play with it for free and read a lot on the Internet.
I have been with Dish for many years and there is no reason that the price should go up unless you keep accepting that. Tell them you are disabled and need the lowest priced deal they have. Ask for the Welcome package. You should be able to get what I have. Speak with them as a friend and just lay out the facts of your existence, asking them what they can do for you.
If you have problems with the person you speak with, ask for a supervisor. If that doesn’t help, call the main number
(303-723-1000) and ask the operator for the executive resolutions department.
If you have problems with getting Internet, be sure to get someone to help you.
I also have the SafeLink phone, so I understand.
Michael
p.s. you can install LibreElec/OpenElec on a USB stick – it will have Kodi and such right away installed.
hans
Hi Mark,
well, to run Kodi, you wouldn’t even need to install a separate operating system like Windows.
So yes, when using LibreElec or OpenElec, they both come with an OS (Embedded Linux) – so both of these include everything you need; OS and Kodi. Nothing else needed, and highly optimized for Kodi use.
Your computer only needs to be on when watching a show or movie. So yes; turn the computer on when watching TV, turn it off when done
.
Since I use my Amazon Fire TV for Netflix and Amazon, I cannot say that I have tried Netflix/Amazon with Kodi – In the past Kodi relied on external libraries/software which just feels a little unstable/iffy. So that’s why I use a $39 Amazon Fire TV Stick for Netflix and Amazon. If you do not have HVEC or h.265 content, then you can even install KODI on the Amazon Fire TV stick.
Oh and never worry about “newbie” questions – we all have been and sometimes still are newbies ourselves
.
hans
I like the idea of a system on a flash drive. That can make some things easier and much more convenient for folks who are away from home a lot of the time. Its a great idea.
Michael
That’s how I started playing with OpenElec … and then I decided that I liked it and installed OpenElec on an SSD which makes it all go a little faster. These days I’d prefer LibreElec though – the LibreElec team (some are former members of the OpenElec team) seem more liberal when it comes to development and such.
hans
I will give you a retail license for Windows 10 Professional for free. It is a totally legit license so you don’t have to worry about any problems. You will need a way to get a Windows 10 installation disk or install Windows 7 or 8.1 then download Windows 10 and install it. I need your email address to send you the license key code.
Brian
Hi Brian,
Sorry I took so long to get back to you but I couldn’t avoid it.
That is extremely kind of you on offering me that license. I know it’s been awhile so you might not still have it, but I thought I’d ask.
My e-mail is generalmark@comcast.net but like I said I totally understand if you don’t have it anymore.
Thanks
mark
Thanks guys,
I’m sorry about not knowing what type of forum this was. I somehow just came across it and everbody was more knowledgeable and polite then all the others forums I’ve been on.
About using that old computer you mentioned does it have to meet any certain requirements to work with Kodi?
The computer I don’t use much is Windows 10 64 bit and has a AMD Phenom{tm} X6 1090T 3.2 Processor. My hard drives have 174GB free on drive C, 300GB free on drive F, 628GB free on drive J, I can always add another 2TB because I think video takes up a lot of space. What I am concerned about is it only has a ATI Radeon HD 4600 Series video card.
This might be a dumb question but do I still have to use a splitter to avoid HDCP? And if so where would I connect it? I don’t see a HDMI in on this computer.
Mark
Mark
No worries Mark!
Thank you for the nice complement
.
As for using an old computer; I guess it depends on the type of video’s you’re playing.
Now a simple computer can play pretty much anything with the exception of so called HVEC or h.265/x.265 encoded videos. Now those are not mainstream yet, but they appear more and more, and making those yourself has become easier as well. So in the long run you’d want a more powerful PC or a video chip/card that can do these codecs in hardware (hardware accelerated).
The computer spec you list will be more than sufficient for running Kodi. I think it might even pull off HVEC/h.265/x.265. The ATI will be sufficient for video’s, and the processor will possibly be capable of dealing with the heavy-duty codecs. All other codes (MP4, MPEG, etc) will work butter smooth on your setup. My old PC has an even lesser video chip and runs just fine.
As for disk space, you will not need much for Kodi + Embedded Linux. I’m guessing that it will take less than 4Gb.
If you want to store your movies on that computer, then you might want to keep that 2Tb drive in mind for the future.
You will not need a HDMI splitter to strip HDCP, unless you’re trying to playback protected content on Kodi – for example when you decide to use a plugin for Netflix or Amazon.
Hope this helps
hans
Mark,
I agree with Hans; you have plenty of computer power for your needs. Don’t worry about that.
I’m more concerned with you being able to take what you need with you when you go for treatment. What is available for you there?
Michael
Thanks Hans and Michael for your quick replies, I really appreciate it.
When I read your replies I am amazed how much you guys know in the world of computers and everything that goes with it.
I don’t know if it’s my medical condition or If I’m just getting older, but I can’t seem to retain information like you guys do. I didn’t even know about android media boxes and Kodi until I seen it on YouTube.
To be honest with you guys I watch so many movies because I’m sick ln bed and I hate having to get up and put in a DVD, and then half the time it won’t play because it’s dirty or scratched. That’s why a android box sounds good.
I am on my way to Allegheny Hospital in Pittsburgh, PA. this coming Monday but when I get home I am going to purchase something right away from Amazon.
But I do want to Thank You guys for all your advice and for being so patient.
Mark
mojoman
Hi Mark
Glad to hear that we could help you – and glad to hear that the setup is helpful for you.
As far as retaining info goes; well we all have our moments where we dig into a topic that interests us – and yes, we all start with limited info. So whenever you have a question; feel free to ask – you’re most welcome (as are others of course).
I wish you improvements on your medical condition and fun watching your movies.
hans
Confirming just purchased ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D and Avermedia EZRecorder 130 (ER130) works for me.
1) Connect source to input of VIEWHD
2) Connect output 1 to TV (mine is Sony Bravia KDL48W600B.
3) Power up ViewHD.
4) Plug in Dvr to output 2 of ViewHD.
5) Plug in output of dvr to another input on tv. (Optional to allow for viewing of menus and output of dvr)
Great thread. Thanks for the education!
AmesJainchill
Hi AmesJainchill!
Thanks for the confirmation, and glad to hear this article and it’s comments was helpful for you!
hans
Hi all
I tried to join this site and keeps will not go through.
Well I purchased 1 of theses ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2M. and I hope it will work for recording hdmi tv from Xfinity.
I plan to take hdmi cable from cable box then to the splitter then to this Premium Stand Alone Digital HDMI HD Componet Video DVR 1080p Recorder. Then to the samsung tv. I have seen some on this forum say the ViewHD will strip HDCP protection. Just looking to record some tv series about 5 episodes per recording. I bought this on the reading in this topic that it worked for others, and hope it will work for me.
Any input appreciated
Bob
Hi all
I just purchased a ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2M. and hope it will delete the HDCP from my xfinity cable box. I also purchased a Premium Stand Alone Digital HDMI HD Componet Video DVR 1080p Recorder to record some tv series maybe 3-5 episodes per recording. I read on this forum topic that some have also bought this Splitter and worked for them. I hope it will also work for me. I also have kodi tv with computer and android box but is a pain to keep updating and doing timeless searching for movies. Half the time movies are not supported on the server and you have to keep searching to find one that works. I have other resources of live tv and movies and was hoping the ViewHD will strip the HDCP form recording from the X1 comcast. I have not tried any of this as I’m still waithing for the items to arrive.
Any advice appreciated.
dss56
Hi Bob,
Sorry you’re running into issues signing up. I did send you an email (not sure if you replied yet).
I have not tested every single splitter, but the ViewHD looks very much like the one I’m using, and it does strip HDCP. But, and that’s how this article started, it’s a hit and miss with these splitters. So far I personally have not had any bad luck with them, but some users report issues (see the list on top, and posts in the comments).
As for the DVR you purchased; I have no experience with that particular model. I actually use an Elgato Game Capture HD – which allows me to record on my computer (Mac in my case, but obviously it works under Windows as well). Naturally, for your scenario, having a standalone seems more suiting. I’d assume, you’d use Kodi for playback, so in that case you might have to manually copy the recordings to your server.
hans
The hdmi recorder will allow a usb HD so I will hook up a 2TB and record my tv to a external HD. I was never one to record video to my computers as I have about 6 of them in various rooms. I like recording to an external drive then I can burn to dvd if I want.
I do have Kodi tv and also IPTV with 1100 tv channels, the iptv at times is unstable so I will have to catch it when it works and do my recordings. On iptv there should be no HDCP. I’m mostly going to record from my Xfinity cable box if possible (still waiting for equipment).
The external recorder is manual so no timer to do my recordings I will have to be close by to start and stop my recordings.
I was looking for this recorder that has built in time recordings IR blaster to change channels, internal and external HD, and will also playback so basically all in one.
AVerMedia EZRecorder, HD Video Capture High Definition HDMI Recorder, PVR, DVR,
I do have an Xfinity DVR but no way of getting the recorded movies or shows off it to burn to dvd if i wish.
So I have too much time on my hands as I’m retired and have always been into dvds, video, satellite tv, and electronics. Worked for the Government for 36 years building satellites and communication systems for the US defense so I have it in my blood, keeps me going toying around.
I’m glad I found this site to inform me of the HDCP problem.
When I burned dvd’s years ago same problem with copy protection I ended up buying a unit that stripped the c-protection from the dvd.s and made full copies with all menus and no loss.
Well I said my piece.
thanks Dss56/Bob
dss56
Hi Bob,
I don’t know what model DVR you have from Xfinity, but if it has HDMI output, then you could of course use it to record your shows, and after having recorded it, record it with the other recorder. This way it’s stored in the best quality, timer and channel are all set automatically.
Connect the HDMI output to one of the HDCP stripping splitters and record it afterwards with one of the recording devices you have in mind.
I agree; recording with a PC is not ideal. Then again; I don’t use the HDMI/HDCP stripping for that purpose anyway. I use it to capture screenshots for articles that I’m writing, and I see others using it with older projectors and such that do not handle HDCP.
It would most certainly work great for your purposes as well.
hans
I’m sure I know how to hook it all up. If any questions I’ll ask here.
I got the splitter today and am waiting for the dvr recorder. Should show up tomorrow some time and will get it all setup and give it a try.
Are you familiar with IPTV which I have but is not reliable at times. Gives you almost every cable channel out there from direct, dish and skyvu. all the tv you could ever want. If it was stable it would be great to record all the VOD channels and movie channels. It kinda freeze’s at times and you never know when that will happen. So my cable tv is the next best thing to record. Most torrents sites are drying up so gonna give it a go.
Kodi tv which I have is low on my list to use.
chow
Bob
Bob, it is interesting that you brought up IPTV (Internet Protocol Television). All that means, for those who don’t know, is that streaming television is transmitted thru the Internet. However, one must still have a subscription or an account with the providers, such as Dish.
If one has paid for the service, there should be no slow down or problem with the signal, unless one’s Internet service provider’s connection is poor. When that happens, check with your ISP to get help. If you’re like me, you demand that you get your money’s worth, and by so doing we all help keep the providers accountable.
Michael
I’m talking of a different iptv read here it $85.00 for the full year subscription and you use a MAG254 STB set it up which is easy its wifi connected or network cable. Here is the site if interested https://iptvzeta.com/ this forum has all the info you need. At times it works great and at times it freezes you never know when. There is a VOD with over 500 current and older movies. An like I said almost every channel dish, direct and Skyvue offer in this iptv mag 254. Lots of foreign channel stations. Also the MAG254 works as a media player if you hook an external drive loaded with movies. Should work world wide with any Internet connection.
If anyone needs info on NFPS IPTV please ask will be glad to help
Dss56/Bob
Bob
Hi Bob,
the IPTVZeta service sounds sketchy at best and does not seem to be legal (unlike the service Michael might be referring to).
I did notice that they have a forum, so if you run into buffering problems (freeze), you might want to checkout their forum. A quick Google search indicates that buffering problems are not uncommon with IPTVZeta and it seems you can select different servers – which might make the buffering issues reduce or even go away.
hans
Does anybody recommend the KDLinks A400 Android Media center which has a slot where you can slide a 8TB hard drive in it to hold all your media files.
And better yet the new ZidooX10 android box which can hold a 10TB hard drive and also has a HDMI input. I have hundreds of non HD DVD’S that I just want to rip them and put them on some media device.
Since the ZidooX10 has a HDMI input, It would be a bonus if I could record TV shows off my Xfinity 1, but the specs on the ZidooX10 say the HDMI in and out are HDCP 2.2 . What exactly does that mean, or should I say is that bad or good for me? I’ve been reading about how these devices have to comply with each other.
Will the HDMI splitter work on HDCP 2.2? I know the ZidooX10 is HDCP 2.2 and I’m pretty sure so is the Xfinity 1 cable box.
So what do you guys think?
Thanks.
mark
I have no experience with any of these media players. What I do know when it comes to Android boxes and media players: if you want to run LibreElec then please stick to the S905/S905x processor series (see also: link). Stay clear from other processor models unless the standard Android setup provided is to your liking ….
I personally would also look at the smaller QNAP NAS models that support HDMI – but it all depends on your budget of course.
As for HDMI 2.2 support; this will depend on the HDMI splitter. Some are only HDMI 1.3 or lower. Some appear to do HDMI 2.2 / 4K etc as well.
hans
[…] the more common approach seems to be a cheap “HDMI Splitter” where some of them “authenticate” on […]
Hi,
I want to confirm that I just bought
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDCP-HDMI-Splitter-Full-HD-1080p-Video-HDMI-Switch-Switcher-1X2-Split-1-in-2-Out/32573135541.html
(ordered 14 of July 2017, 2 weeks delivery).
The HDCP protection was removed. At first the protection was present, but after PC restart, protection was removed.
HDMI output “2” connected to PC (recording)
Thank you for the very useful article, it saves plenty of time :)
Tean
Thanks Tean for posting your findings!
The more confirmations we get, the easier it becomes for others to enjoy this “feature” as well
….
hans
Hans, what is the current recommendation for equipment to copy from a Dish DVR to a computer?
Michael
Hi Michael,
I would (at this moment) guess a Dish DVR/receiver, with HDMI output.
The HDMI output of the DVR goes to the HDMI in of one of these HDMI splitters that accidentally strip HDCP.
The HDMI output of the splitter: One to the TV and one to a video converter/grabber like the ones listed here.
I had great results with the Elgato Game Capture HD (this one), which doesn MP4/h264, but if you want to capture 1080p HD @ 60 fps content, then you might want to consider one of the HD60 models. I assume the newer and more capable HD60 models will do an even better job.
Maybe others have had good experience with other video capture solutions.
Hope this helps …
hans
Thank you so much, Hans. That is much appreciated.
Which splitter is your favorite?
Michael
You’re most welcome
I bought this one, but that has been a while ago. Also, it’s still listed as a $20 item, whereas this one is only $9 and yesterday someone confirmed it to be working (as have others). The one I have, lists a comment from 2017 that HDCP stripping still seems to work and Amazon is probably faster in shipping, but both ship for free, and for $9 not much can go wrong right?
hans
Hello all,
I’m desperate to find a solution for strip HDCP from my signal TVbox…
I have bought 4 splitters some months ago and since then I have no success bypassing HDCP when trying to connect my TVBox to video capture device.
My TV Box is a Horizon box – SMT-G7401XEN (UPC from Switzerland) and by capture device is an internal hauppauge colossus V1 (I use the software Arcsoft Showbiz that came with the video card).
When I connect the box directly to the video card or through one of the splitters I have always the same error. HDCP Issue. Sound but no video and the message HDCP error.
One of the problem is that I’m even unable to identify the HDCP version that my TVbox has… Am I doing something wrong on the connection? Step by step? I have read that the PC must be restarted after the connections done or that 2 outputs must be connected?
I even have bought a HDFury 3 to go to component output but the quality image is not suitable for me.
PS: some of the splitters that I have. None of them work with me.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61yZUqDBRDL._SL1500_.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41NBIu8sy-L._SY355_.jpg
Anyone had the same problem?
Thank you all for any solution to this problem.
david.dgc
Hi David,
sorry to hear you’re running into HDCP issues as well …
First thing I’d do is test the splitters with another video source, for example a BluRay player, or an Amazon FireTV, or a NetFlix device. Most of these devices will use HDCP when playing DRM protected content. At least this way you can eliminate if it’s a problem with the splitter, or a problem with your TV-box using an odd HDMI version.
Also worth trying, while you’re at it, is connecting a HDCP compatible device to for example the first (or the last) HDMI output of the splitter. So for example connect your TV to HDMI output 1, and your video capture device to HDMI output 2. Some have reported that this trick might be needed with some splitters.
Unfortunately, I have not tested the splitters you listed, I have this one (Amazon $20) and I did see confirmation that it works on this one (AliExpress $8). I would test one of those two, if you can wait for it to be shipped then I’d take the one from AliExpress. (shipping is free)
As far as I know, but I honestly have zero experience with it, the HDFury 3 might be able to strip HDPC, but you might need special firmware for that. In the comments one or more HDFury models have been discussed. Unfortunately, I do not have a HDFury.
hans
Thank you for you answer.I just ordered the 8dollars splitter to give it a try.I will try the trick with the Bluray player and with the apple TV. I will also check the trick connecting the TV on one ou the outputs.Thank you.
david.dgc
You’re welcome David!
If you’d like, let us know what your findings are – I’m sure others will be interested as well.
Oh and don’t forget to look for alternative firmware for the HDFury 2 …
hans
The one that I have is the HDFury 3 that outputs on VGA analog format. So it works because of the switch digital-analog format but the final result is not very pleasant. I lost i lot of definition, the colors are not has much vivid.
I just checked the previous posts: anyone confirm that the HDFury Integral with the firmware hack can actually strip HDCP? Which version of HDCP (as don’t know what HDCP version my TVBox supports…).
Thank you.
david.dgc
Haha, as I said: I have no experience with any of the HDFury products.
Maybe one of the other HDFury users can respond to this?
Converting HDMI to VGA and then digitize it again will indeed result in not so great video.
I use a Elgato Game Capture HD (this one), which works great. The newer models (HD60) will do an even better job I assume. It captures HDMI straight from HDMI.
p.s. I suspect that most TV boxes will do either HDMI 1.3 or 1.4. I’m not 100% sure of course, but I was not able to find any info stating it would be HDMI 2.0 either – which I would assume they would be “proud” of.
I did notice that the Dutch cable company Ziggo utilizes these boxes as well. But no specs.
hans
I just received the splitter from Aliexpress (the one at 8dollars) and it works! the splitter bypass the HDCP.
david.dgc
Hi David!
Thanks for posting the feedback that the $8 splitter from AliExpress works (this one for those interested).
The more confirmations we get the better – it will be useful for those considering buying one as well.
Thanks again and glad to hear it works for you as well!
hans
This posting is in regard to some earlier posts from Mark who had a MDR515H 500GB HDD DVD-R and was having some issues with recording from a cable box. I have a similar but newer model that has two tuners and it records excellently from over the air broadcasts. I don’t know Mark if you ever tried it with an antenna or live near enough to tv towers, but the built-in tuner is pretty sensitive. I have an outdoor antenna mounted low with an amplifier on it and it works well. By the way, there are no non-computer DVR/DVD-R units that I am aware of that have an HDMI or component input. But when you record from the internal tuner, you are getting HD quality recorded on the hard drive. When you dub to DVD, it will not be as good but still quite decent.
If you still have the unit, to record from a cable box or DirecTV with HDMI or component output that converts to S-Video which the Magnavox has for an input, you would need something like this: Atlona, AT-COMP500 Component to Composite / S-Video Down-Converter which is the one I use but the quality is not as good as using the internal tuner. By the way, to record from a DirecTV box when using this, I have to disconnect the HDMI output because of HDCP issues. When I hook up a splitter, it works fine but I find that the splitter throws off the auto sensing circuits which switch the HDMI inputs on my Sony tv so I just unplug the HDMI cable from the DirecTV box when I want to record from it. Most of the recording I do comes from the internal tuner for over the air stations in my area where all major networks are available as well as diginet channels. I hope this helps in some way.
Jerome
I may have made an error when comparing the MDR515H to the newer model I have which is the MDR867. From the outside, they look pretty much the same but some connectors have changed. After checking some specs and old web pages, it appears that the 515’s highest recording mode for the hard drive was in standard definition where the newer models such as the 856, 867, 868 can record to the hard drive in HD mode but convert to standard definition when dubbing to DVD’s. However, my old Panasonic DVD Recorder from about 2009 was only standard definition and looked pretty good using the best settings so your machine should give decent results from the over the air tuner but it appears that it does not record in high definition.
Jerome
Hi,
I have been reading the blog and comments, very good. I have purchased a device (not mentioned here, a 4-way splitter mentioned on another site) and have hooked it up to a projector and TV. I get a picture on both, but when removing and reinserting the inputs, I get the HDCP error message for a few seconds, then it kicks back in. This only happens on the TV. I purchased the device because I randomly get the error from my HD cable/satellite box when watching it on my projector. I mean it is random; can happen at any time or not at all. So my theory was if I have the projector and TV working at the same time, I may have solved the problem with the splitter. The only problem is, I’m not really sure if it has worked. Anybody have theory as to how to confirm/test that the HDCP has gone/been removed?
Thanks
SIMON
Hi Simon,
apologies for the late response.
I did my testing with an Amazon Fire TV, while playing one of their Amazon Prime movies or TV Shows. I would assume that any NetFlix or Amazon supporting device would do the same when playback of TV Shows or Movies is being done.
If this works consistently well with your projector then you should be fine.
If not, then either your projector is not supporting HDCP or had an implementation of HDCP that is either not entirely correct or maybe too old.
The trick we used here, using a HDMI splitter, works for one of two reason.
1) This chip used in the splitter is actually a “valid” HDCP chip that validates HDCP security and makes the playback device think all is well, and there for starts sending video.
2) The chip in the splitter picks the first output to identify itself to the playback device as being a valid HDCP device, and there for sends video to the other outputs.
hans
Hey everyone,
I’ve been trying to get my Fire TV Stick to work with my old plasma TV (Panasonic TH-42PZ8E) but all I get is a black screen. My TV’s manual says that it’s HDMI 1.3 and HDCP compliant but it just doesn’t want to display anything. Could this really still be an HDCP problem? I read that the HDCP on the Fire TV Stick is 1.4 and backwards compatible anyway. I’ve noticed that this problem also persists with the HDMI of my PC’s graphics card but if I use the DVI port of my graphic’s card (Dual link DVI-I) and connect it to the same HDMI port on my TV with a DVI-D (single link) to HDMI cable it works.
Another thing I’d like to mention is that beginning of this year I connected a Raspberry pi 3 (which apparently is HDMI 1.3a) and it also worked. At this point i’m out of ideas and completely desperate! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Andreas
Hi Andreas,
I’m not sure if this is a HDCP related issue or not. One thing I have noticed with older screens is that they (for example) only do 720 where as you device (Fire TV etc) might be trying to use 1080p. You could test that by connecting the Fire TV to a TV that does work, and force the resolution to 720p in the settings and then test it on your TV again.
hans
Hi Andreas,
In 2015, my 32″ Vizio lcd worked fine with both of my two Fire t.v.s(Gen 1). I upgraded to Gen 2, Fire t.v.s , plugged each up to the Vizio to be sure they were functioning. The result, no video no audio. Put the Gen 1’s back on line with the Vizio, they each worked no problem. Then it hit me to try out an hdmi spitter I had on hand between my pc and Vizio. The Gen 2’s worked just fine. Good audio and good video. Also, when using my Gen 1 Fire tv’s with a converter on my old analog Toshiba, I had no problem. Not the greatest picture but 3 my yr old granddaughter was happy. Tried using the Gen 2 Fire tv’s, poor picture, green in color, and good audio. What I did was to run the Fire tv through tha digital to analog converter into old vhs player “out” of the vhs player into the tv. Good picture and proper color[again]. I suspect that some type of “upgrade”/”improvement” was incorporated into the Fire t.v Gen 2. Oh by the way, it may take trying out different hdcp compliant splitters or hdmi hubs to determine what will work best on a particular tv. Sometimes you may find, as I did, that you may end up using different manufacturers hdmi splitters or hdmi hubs for different tv sets or monitors. Bad hdmi cables can throw a monkey wrench into the equation. Sometimes they can be defective from the onset. So always keep some backups handy to test out on a known working set/system. just to be sure you are good to go. Just my 2 cents:) Have a good day.
rick
Hi Rick,
Thanks for chiming in and sharing your findings!
It’s much appreciated.
hans
At all, I have a QBell QXL.216WA monitor with DVI output that does not support HDCP. I would use it with my playstation 3.
can you use the ps3 with this monitor if you purchase an HDMI Splitter?
Which HDMI Splitter do I recommend buying for ps3?
David
Hi David,
I’d recommend getting this one from Ali-Express. You’ll also need a HDMI to DVI converter (for example from Amazon).
This combo should work for your PS3.
Hope this helps,
Hans
hans
Thank you for answering.
The problem is that in the country where I am I can not find the HDMI Splitter equal to what you posted to me.
Could you help me to look for the right one?
There are dozens of Amazons in the same form as you posted to me, but they are different.
can you search here please? https://www.amazon.it/
David
Hi David,
the problem with these splitters, is that it’s always a gamble if they do or do not strip HDCP – so the best way to get one of these is by picking one that others reported as working. That’s why I recommend getting the one from AliExpress. They deliver to the entire world, are cheap, and most of the time do not charge shipping costs. I’ve used AliExpress in the Netherlands and in the US, so I assume they would deliver in Italy as well.
hans
I have tried to buy this HDMI Splitter that you have been advised, but unfortunately on Aliexpress is no longer available.
Could you tell me where to find one equal or similar, even at another site?
David
Hi David,
apologies for the late response. The listed splitter is indeed no longer available, thanks for reporting this.
I did see anew listing that looks very similar (at AliExpress as well) – I have not been able to test this model, so it will be a shot in the dark. I suspect though that it’s very likely that this one is the same and will very likely strip HDCP as well.
If you decide to get this one, and test it, then please let us know if it works … others would be very grateful.
hans
I bought this HDMI
Splitter, I tried in all ways, also changing the ps3 video resolution
settings, but my monitor screen remains black. The monitor receives a signal but the screen remains black.
What can be the reason?
David
Hi David,
this sounds very much like a HDCP issue – unless a too high resolution is send that your TV monitor can’t handle (ie. say your monitor can handle only up to 720p but the signal i 1080p or 4K). But you seem to have tested the resolution part.
As for the splitter, unfortunately, the link didn’t come through, or were you referring to the AliExpress one?
Either way; the splitter might not strip HDCP or, as we have seen with some of these splitters you might have to connect a “legit” TV to one of the HDMI outputs before connecting the monitor. Worth a try I guess to see if it is HDCP related. If the latter works, then we know for sure it’s a HDCP issue.
hans
I’ve done several tests to see if this HDMI Slipper works.
I tried connecting the ps3 with the HDMI Splitter to my TV that has
the HDMI ports, and it works, (if I connect the ps3 directly to the TV
with the HDMI cable works anyway, I just did a try to see if it worked).
Then I tried to connect a bluray player to my DVI monitor that does not support HDCP through an HDMI-DVI adapter, and it works.
So my monitor can receive an HDMI signal in the DVI port.
In the end I did another test, I tried to connect the bluray player through the HDMI Splitter to my DVI monitor. Result? The screen receives a signal (green LED) but remains black.
Another
strange thing I noticed, and that when I connect any device through the
HDMI Splitter to my DVI monitor, my monitor receives a signal, but it
is as if it was blocked, in fact, if I press the power off button, the
monitor it does not turn off, and if I press the monitor settings button, nothing happens and the settings window does not open.
This is very strange.
What can be the cause?
David
Hi David,
sounds like you did most of the important tests.
With your monitor I’m wondering if it has a hard time detecting the resolution (720p, 1080i, 1080p, etc) and refresh rate (ie. seems to freeze / get stuck). Maybe the splitter “forces” the video signal to a signal your monitor does not seem to recognize.
I am not familiar with your monitor, but if possible you could try to see if you can force to to DVI and/or a specific resolution (ie. 1080p). But not all monitors offer these kind of features. Since your monitor seems to freeze, I’d set this before connecting anything. Making sure it’s not set to “auto”. Of course … if your monitor has this option, and you might want to force the video source to a similar resolution (ie. like set the PS3 to 720p and the monitor to input DVI and 720p as well – if possible).
hans
Bought an AstroAI HDMI Splitter, connected to an EzRecorder.
It worked well for 6 recordings, then message popped up “Storage Devise not found”.
Maybe source cut me off? any idea why it failed?
Klaus Weichelt
Hi Klaus,
Sounds like an issue with EzRecorder. I’m not really familiar with EzRecorder, but if this is a separate device, could it be that it is overheating, or that the cable to your storage is not the best, or maybe your storage device is failing in general?
hans
Thanks so much for this article and all of the comments. I have two Sanyo projectors in my system which have component video connections. I have an HDMI to Component video converter which works perfectly with my Cox cable box as the source and gives 1080i. However, when I use a Blu Ray player as the source, I get only light grey wavy lines. I suspect this is due to copyright protection. After reading this article and many of the comments, I bought this from Amazon:
SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
Unfortunately, the splitter that shipped is v1.4. This is only shown on the one page “manual” and not on the unit itself. I am returning to this for a refund. I am now going to try another splitter. Anyone want to share some current guidance on splitters that will work?
Blair
Hi Blair,
it has been a while that I had ordered mine. Seems the AliExpress models are the way to go (also super cheap).
Not sure how important HDMI 1.4 is, it seems these splitters use a chip that is actually designed for a TV and that’s why the HDCP stripping works.
Also note, incase you haven’t returned the splitters yet, that some splitters only work when one of the HDMI-out ports has been connected to a HDCP compliant TV (for example).
Not sure if others have recent experiences they’d like to share.
hans
In the Dutch version of this article, one of the users ordered this one from AliExpress.
Did not get a confirmation that it works though.
hans
Hi all
Sorry for jumping in on this few months later but I was reading this forum (and others!) for hours before I decided which splitter to buy to use with the Elgato HD60 to record PS3 game footage. I hope my experience at least helps one person :)
Being from the UK I purchased this from Amazon. There were a few more recent reviews saying it didn’t work but one at the top from 2014 basically confirms yes it does. I believe this one is the same for sale in the US.
Anyways it came today and the product in the UK link works perfectly! It states on the manual and in the description that it is HDMI 1.4a.
If anyone needs to troubleshoot here’s the equipment I’m using – Elgato HD60, 3x Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI cables, PS3 slim, TV Sony XE8596 series, iMac Retina 5K late 2015.
And step by step (for my own sanity, incase I ever lose my piece of paper of how it was all connected and set up
)
1. Connect splitter to power
2. Connect PS3 to HDMI IN on splitter
3. Connect HDMIOUT1 on splitter to TV
4. Connect HDMIOUT2 on splitter to Elgato HD60 HDMI IN.
5. Connect Elgato to PC via USB
6. Open Game Capture HD software (I used v2.9)
7. Change input device to ‘other’ in Game Capture HD settings
8. Turn on PS3 and you should be good to go!
***Note 1: HDMI OUT on Elgato is unused***
***Note 2: Ignore any light flashes on the Elgato. Test the capture by doing actual gameplay recording. Mines kept flashing red at me but I still managed to record.***
***Note 3: I’ve only managed to capture in 720p so far. Perfectly suitable for our purpose to upload to YouTube***
***Note 4: If you start recording on your home screen then load into a game HDCP briefly cut in just before the game is booted up. Recording will still continue***
***Note 5: If you’re having problems with capturing in game sound – check your audio settings on the PS3. Set it again to HDMI if you haven’t already***
Happy capturing!!
Emma
Hi Emma!
Thanks for sharing this and for the write up! Awesome!
hans
Awesome. If you’re going to record in 1080p could you let us know how it is please.
dominick_7
Hi all
I’ve tried to record a few games in 1080p on the PS3 with no luck. The max I can get is 720p. Reading around I believe it may be something to do with the native game resolution which prevents upscaling.
On the other hand, I tried Hitman on the PS4 and was able to capture 1080p with no issues.
Emma
Could this be a limitation of your PS3? I read (but I’m by no means an expert) somewhere that there are 720p and 1080p versions of the PS3.
hans
My PS3 is almost 10 years old (how did that happen so fast!!!) so that may be what’s happening, although when I play BluRays my TV confirms it is playing in 1080p.
Same here, I’m not an expert but going back to what I said before about game resolutions, it seems that very few games were actually released in native 1080p. From what I can see from forums online, most games were sold as 1080i or 720p although it’s hard to find a definitive list of what game is what resolution. It seems to be a bit of trial and error.
I was throwing in random games when I tried it before so the only game I can absolutely confirm that must be native 720p is Fallout 3. I’ll try keep adding them here as I come across them.
Emma
Hi Emma,
well, if it makes you feel any better; even the newer consoles (PS4/XBox One) do not do all games in 1080p.
in the end, I don’t think it matters much while playing a game (my XBox One X does 4K and I honestly cannot say that I enjoy a game more because of it hahah).
hans
Bought the HDFury Vertex before reading the need for hacked firmware to strip hdcp completely. I’m starting to wish I went cheaper since the hacked firmware for the Integral is easily found (e.g. this forum). Where can I find the hacked Vertex firmware or where should I ask?
As of now, I have to use the wsky splitter which limits quality and therefore less desirable than a working HDfury. Also requires a HDCP enabled device as one of the outputs. The unhacked HDFury Vertex just let’s me reduce hdcp 2.2 to 1.4 which doesn’t really help unless I missed something.
In case the splitter used wasn’t already posted…
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071LPLGG9/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adam
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ultra-1080P-4k-1-in-2-out-HDCP-Stripper-1×2-HDMI-Splitter-Power-Signal-Amplifier/282713765532
Tested this one from German Ebay, which is actually stripping HDCP (when the target display does not speak HDCP – otherwise, the splitter does not strip HDCP). Maybe similar-looking devices from other sources do that too. (The one review states, it is not a HDCP stripper, but update is pending and should be visible soon.)
notmyname
Thanks NoMyName for posting the tip.
For regular 1080p this should work just fine. Interesting to see that it will not strip HDCP when the receiving device does support HDCP.
hans
Not stripping HDCP for me :( . LED first lights up when plugging in my non-hdcp device, but after a few seconds goes out.
It’s the ViewHD type of box, this time called “easyday”. It’s the plastic box version with the “HDMI v1.4”, v1.1
Drew
Hi Drew,
sorry to hear you ran into one of the splitters that does NOT strip HDCP …
It looks like the HDMI 1.3 versions are the ones that strip HDCP. It looks like HDMI 1.4 (and newer) splitters fail to strip HDCP.
hans
OP here – just opened my (working/stripping) device bought at exactly this link to have a look inside (it’s just glued without noses)
outside its labeled:
“easyday”
“1X2”
“4Kx2K & V1.4”
“HDMI Splitter”
Inside the PCB is labeled
“E6554A6661”
“HDMI V1.4 1X2 V1.1”
“20170321”
“QCW”
The main IC is labeled
“iTE”
“IT6661FN”
“1736-BXA”
“AH08UA”
From the second IC with 32 pins (square, pins on four sides) the marking has been mechanically removed.
notmyname
That’s good info!
So you have a working HDMI 1.4 HDCP stripper that supports 4K … hmm interesting!
I may get me one of those!
hans
Hi all
I just want to let you all know my findings with the View HD splitter. I was looking for another one so here goes.
Bought first off Amazon v1.3 and worked for the HDCP last May 2017
I bought second off ebay advertised it was 1.3 and would do HDCP. January 2018
Well the second did not work so I took the covers off both only 1 screw and the first 1 bought had 2 chips on board. v1.3
Second splitter had 1 chip on board. v1.4
First one on the pc board said v1.3 and the second said 1.4 on the pc board even though advertised as 1.3 and did not work.
I bought another brand cant open as the plastic box has no screws advertised as 1.3v and did not work also.
So now I just bought the same View HD from Amazons as the first time advertised as 1.3v and does HDCP suppose to get in a few days and will report back if it works.
Seems version 1.3 will work but people are selling version 1.4 as version 1.3v.
Well hope this helps if you can open the splitter box and see if you have 1 chip or the 2 chip splitter and look on the pc board for the version
Bob
Hi Bob,
that sounds like my experience as well. Mostly: the not so clear definition in the advertisements that mislead buyers.
Please let us know your findings on the new splitter.
hans
Hi All
Since I got a new 4K tv & switched my Panasonic TC-P50G20 Plasma into the spare room, replacing the old tube TV, I’ve got an HDCP error that doesn’t make any sense to me when I try to record programs on my Pioneer DVR-450 DVD recorder. My Scientific Atlanta Explorer 4250HD cable box is hooked to the TV via HDMI, and I always get a picture. I had the DVR-450 hooked to the TV by HDMI, but that sometimes gave me the HDCP error & sometimes didn’t, so I tried switching to the Component connection so I didn’t miss my shows in the meantime, but that didn’t do it either & here’s where it gets confusing. When I have the TV on, I always get a picture through the component & am able to record fine. If I turn the TV off during the program, I immediately get the HDCP error, which will immediately go away if I turn the TV back on. Otherwise, it’s totally pot luck. If I have the TV off & just have the regular connection setup of box to TV, s-video from box to dvd recorder, & component from dvd recorder to tv, I might get a picture for all, part, or none of the show. Same thing if I pull the component wires out of the dvd recorder & just have the box hooked up to the tv & dvd recorder. I guess the 1 thing I still need to try is pulling the hdmi from the box to the tv, but I’m hoping someone has a suggestion on how to solve this without having to reassemble my setup twice a day! I’m not sure whether sampling w/ splitters suggested here & getting an old hdmi cable is the obvious solution or something else is going on? Many thanks for the advice.
Mike
Hi Mike,
sounds like your Panasonic is not giving the right HDCP “answer”. When you TV is ON, your TV will provide the correct reply to the HDCP request. That’s why it works when the TV is on, but not when it’s off.
I am guessing that HDCP content does not appreciate you trying to record it.
Since you’re working with a 4K setup, using the HDMI splitter trick may or may not work.
Most of the splitters with the HDCP stripping effect support HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 at best.
However, if your content is 1080p or less, then it should work – since your panasonic is most likely not going beyond 480p (DVD), this should work. Depending on the splitter of course. Some pretend to be a 1080p TV, others “borrow” the HDCP reply from a connected HDCP compliant device.
hans
1 thing I don’t understand is why is it even asking the tv if I don’t have any output wires from the dvd recorder to the tv? In any case, I’m not using 4k setup in the room that I’m recording in. The Panasonic Plasma is just the old 1080p. The cable box is 1080i, and the DVD recorder is obviously 480p. The HDMI wires are 1.4, so preferably if there’s a splitter that 1.4 would work w/ that would save me from having to get a different cable for the trial of the splitter, though the cables are cheap, so whatever.
Mike
Hi Mike,
as for asking the TV for a HDCP code; that’s how it “usually” works. The video source (Blu-Ray for example) that is connected to the TV will ask the TV for a code. If the right code is returned, encryption will be removed (as far as I understand) and the “clean” data will be send to the TV.
Now if we use another device (or a TV that is not HDCP capable), then with certain content you will get the message that there is an error and you will see nothing. The data remains encrypted and your “receiving” device will not be able to handle this.
This is where the splitters come in; some of the cheap models will provide the required code, even though they are not a TV or another “legit” device. This will then result in unencrypted data, which the receiving device will then be able to handle.
So far I have seen this with older flatscreen TV’s and projectors. I myself mainly use it to make crispy clear screenshot for my articles here.
In your setup, HDMI 1.3 will work just fine. Since your devices are 1080p or less, I don’t think HDMI 1.4 will add value.
hans
Hi. I dont know if this have already been answered, but I could not locate it. Tried to search, but found nothing in the tread.
So : If the Elgato game capture (or similar or others) is placed between the tv-tuner, the splitter, and the pc – can it capture an EXACT COPY of the tv program ?
The reason for my answer is that I ALREADY have a setup where my tv tuner card gets read throgh software, and delivers a stream that is an EXCACT copy of the tv program I want to record.
So, MY copy is the same as the one the tv channel them selv have. This works ok, but about 20-30 % of the recordings have dropped frames in the stream and other problems.
So, can I use the Elgato/hdmi splitter instead, to get the same copy ?
I mainly use it to record old tv series that is not available on dvd/or subtitled in my country.
Dan
Hi Dan,
I’ve used my Elgato in the setup video source -> splitter -> Elgato.
It captures everything in a great quality and I have not seen any frames being dropped.
When it comes to the question if it’s an EXACT copy; Yes it does make an exact copy especially when using old TV shows and such. The subtitles (when enabled) will be copied as well, as a fixed part of the video – so you cannot enable/disable the subtitles in the copy.
Hope this helps
hans
Here’s another Amazon.com splitter that stripped HDCP for me:
Hdmi Splitter,Ddida Powered Full HD 1080P V1.4 Support 4K/2K and 3D Resolution-1 Source To 2Displays
Adam
Thanks Adam!
Great find!
hans
Hans, it appears that capture is starting to get pretty ridiculous in the requirements category. Check out the article here:
New Capture Card Records 4K 60fpsVideo, If Your PC Can Handle It
Michael
Hi Michael,
yeah … things spin out of control pretty fast haha.
I remember DVD’s being “huge” … but 4K at 60fps … man, I’d start worrying about disk space hahah …
Thanks for posting the link: interesting read!
hans
Hi everyone
I’m stuck!
No idea what has happened….basically, I used to be able to connect my Hauppauge HDPVR to my Sky HD box (DRX890) I used a HD Converter box, and took the cable from Sky box which went into the HD Box. I used to get a signal but no longer see anything just black (no signal) I used the Component cables that came with the HDPVR …Can anyone tell me if I have connected it up right ? I’m guessing I will need to get a splitter ?
Chris
Hi Chris,
it sounds like your Sky HD Box might have gotten an update that now suddenly requires HDCP or any other kind of DRM protection? I’m just guessing here.
I used one of those TV-over-IP boxes at my home for a while. This worked great until Comcast decided that a certain kind of DRM was need on these boxes which made them work only with 1 or 2 channels but all other channels would suddenly no longer work ….
Using a splitter that strips HDCP will most like resolve this for your setup.
hans
I think you may be right Hans/ I’m waiting on 2 splitters right now. I will post and let you know how it goes. Great forum BTW. Please keep it alive. Thanks
Chris
Thanks Chris!
Please keep us posted on your progress, I’d be happy to help where I can …
hans
Hi. I was hoping someone on here could help me out. I have a Sony 1080i television I purchases in 2004 and is still going strong. It only has component and composite inputs. When I purchased the Xbox One X and PS4 Pro to play on them, not having any hdmi port, I just purchased a hdmi to component splitter at Radio Shack. It worked for the Xbox 360 up to the PS4 Pro. But recently when I purchased a Nvidia Shield Pro, I only got audio. I recognized the problem was the Shield couldn’t output 1080i. No big deal, I thought. Then I was told it was illegal to do what I’m trying to do. I just want to make use of a device I bought on the television I like. Can someone help me with a device that could convert/down scale to 1080i AND allows me to not worry about the HDCP (which I literally JUST found out about –my wife and I haven’t had televison, since 2004 and haven’t adopted anything above DVDS for movies, so I realize I seem a little like I’ve been living in a cave.)
Any help is TRULY appreciated,
-B
Brett Barkley
Hi Brett,
actually, you’re not living in a cave
Personally I think you should be able to use your old TV, even though it’s from 2004. Why throw something away, just because some industry goofballs decided to implement an incompatible new “standard”? I wouldn’t! And here the world is concerned about our CO2 footprint while the industry makes us throw away perfectly good equipment? Weird.
I thought the Shield had an option to force the resolution to (for example) 720p. But reading the nVidia forums tells me that this is no longer the case and that the Shield solely relies on the info the HDMI connector provides (ie. based on info provided by a HDMI connector of a TV, which is not available in your case). Bummer.
You could try one of the HDMI splitters listed here.
Legality wise, I wouldn’t think this would be a major crime since you’re just using it to watch content on your existing TV. But I’m not an attorney. I personally use it so I can make screenshots for my articles. Naturally, it would be wrong to use this to illegaly copy and distribute movies – but that’s not your goal.
HDCP may be a reason why you’re not seeing anything. The fact that audio still comes through is throwing me off a little. I thought HDCP would block that as well?
It may also be that your HDMI to component convert simply can’t handle 1080p (or higher), or does not provide the right HDMI info so the wrong resolution is provided, and therefor produces a black screen. Does the Shield indicate what resolution it’s using?
If you’d use a HDMI 1.3 splitter (this probably will not work with a HDMI 1.4!), which strips HDCP, you may get lucky. It’s not a major investment, but it can be tricky to pick the right one.
You could also look for another HDMI to Component converter – these days the can be had relatively cheap (for component this one $23 at Amazon, or for composite this one for $10 at Amazon – I have not tested either of them).
(p.s. I’d love to see this fixed and/or hear how it’s fixed (besides the “buy a new TV” solution
)
hans
Thank you very much for your helpful comments. Last year, in order to keep it from the trash heap, I just soldered a new chip in this television…it was a great learning experience with our two sons on electronics and safety and just being able to say, “I’m not ready to throw a perfectly good television away just yet.”. I’m hoping this set has a lot more life left in it. :) I had thought I might not get a response here and went ahead and ordered this unit from Amazon today. Sorry about that. I wish I’d waited and tried some of the suggestions I got here.
However, I will definitely write back to update anyone interested on my findings. I truly thank you for the responses and the forum for discussion.
-B
Brett Barkley
“The fact that audio still comes through is throwing me off a little. I thought HDCP would block that as well?”
Now that you say it… I wrote here some months ago about my experiences with a Extron HDMI Crossbar, and wondered back then, why I heard audio but not saw any video content – thought it was a special behaviour of the Crossbar.
notmyname
It’s been quite a while that I purchased a HDCP stripping HDMI splitter.
I just looked at Amazon and this model seems to still work and strip HDCP (per the comments – around $20).
hans
In the event the one I just ordered doesn’t work, I’ll try this one next.
Thank you!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hello Brett!
First, you will need an HDMI splitter that can defeat the HDCP protocol. As far as scaling, in my professional video work, I use the DAC-70 for up/down/cross conversions. It works like a champ and has been highly reliable. It is $499 US dollars and I have not seen it anywhere else for less. Amazon has it here:
https://www.amazon.com/Datavideo-DAC-70-Down-Cross-Converter/dp/B00I4ERRO6
trev
One other note to Everyone:
Yes it is getting more difficult to find HDMI splitters that actually will strip HDCP. As someone who has bought multiple splitters only to find some worked and most did not, my greatest find was the HDMI Cloner Box for $99 on Amazon. So not only will it strip HDCP and pass the signal to whatever TV you may be watching, but it gives you the ability to record that signal.
Just something to consider.
trev
Thanks! Is this the unit? If so, I’ll add it to the list.
I’ve been stymied at every point with trying to get this Shield to work. I just want to make use of it.
Thank you!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hello Brett,
Yes, That is the one. I have have three of them now, 2 for both of our home entertainment systems and one I travel with since a lot of the hotels I stay at have hdmi into their TVs.
trev
can this be used with an encrypted hdmi signal from a cable box to a vcr ? SD
Stephen
The Cloner Box allows to record the video signal from you box, straight to an USB stick or USB drive. The recording will be an MP4 file.
I have tested one a while back and it did strip DHCP and the recording is of a good quality.
Playback from this device will be without DHCP, so in your setup (based on your other post), you could connect a HDMI to analog converter straight to the Cloner Box. However, since you’re already recording digitally, you may no longer need a VCR and the quality will be much better than what a VCR would record.
Happy New Year
hans
p.s. the pass through HDMI may be DHCP stripped as well – I haven’t used it in a while.
hans
I’ve seen posts about the cloner box but am not sure if it will do what is necessary. I need to record on vcrs. That means digital to analog and hdmi to standard converters. If a cloner box is put into this system what is the sequence of devices ? the final part is vcr to TV but where does the cloner box fit in if I need to have the converted/striped signal going into the vcrs ? Does the cloner box allow for this ? Would the sequence be cable box, cloner box, then the other two converters into the cable box. Basically I’m asking is the cloner box compatible with a set up that feeds into vcrs ? SD
Stephen DeMay
I haven’t tested a setup like yours, but (assuming Cloner Box will strip DHCP), I’d think this setup:
Sat/Cable Box HDMI -> Cloner Box -> HDMI to Analog -> VCR -> TV
If however your TV uses HDMI then you may want to use a different approach.
Sat/Cabel Box HDMI -> HDMI Splitter Input (with HDCP stripping) …
and then
HDMI Splitter output 1 -> TV HDMI input
HDMI Splitter output 2 -> HDMI to Analog -> VCR -> TV analog input
For your purposes the Cloner Box would only make sense (considering the price) if you want to use it for recording on the Cloner Box instead of your VCR – but that’s just my view on things….
hans
Thanks for the suggestion. Honestly, this is getting to threshold where my wife will proclaim, “It would be better to just buy a new television.” I’m kind of trying to fly under the radar enough to avoid that.
I had considered a HD Fury 3, I think it was, which is about half of this price, I think. But I thank you. If I can’t get anything else to work AND can keep it from the wife, I may just have to consider this.
-B
Brett Barkley
You’re welcome Brett,
As I recall the HD Fury is indeed a great device, just a little expensive maybe for the average purpose (see this list at Amazon). It’s getting dangerously close to just buying another TV (see this list of TV’s where a 40″ TV runs $199).
It is a shame that the industry pushes consumers to toss perfectly good working equipment in the interest of DRM or “progress”.
I did notice that quite a few splitters listed pretty cheap at AliExpress (like this one – users in the Dutch version of article confirm it to strip HDCP).
Hope you get things to work
hans
Thank you, Hans!
I got this unit to work! I’m happy happy for the help and assistance on here.
I don’t know if you’ll be able to add the above unit to your list of HDCP strippers, though. In all my research, I came across a post that suggested pre-digital analog televisions (as mine is, made in 2004) don’t even register with HDCP. The current HDMI to component adapter I’m using is working because of this fact alone. So I believe I was very concerned about something that doesn’t even affect me at this point. Truthfully, it hadn’t even been on my radar, until the first guy I spoke with tried to tell me I was doing something illegal.
So, again, THANK YOU to everyone who helped. I’d love to continue browsing this site. One day, maybe sooner than later, I’d like to get a new television. Though I love this set, it’s getting tough to read all the tiny words on the 34″ screen.
Thanks again!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hi Brett!
Awesome!! I’m glad to hear that yo can still use your TV and found a working solution! Thank you for taking the time tompost the link!
hans
p.s. I added the link to the article! Thanks again!
hans
I have had this setup ever since the Xbox One X came out and today it decided to be an A-hole. I turn on the system and I get a HDCP 2.2 error. Xbox One X into Onkyo TX-NR575 to NEC NP4001 via HDMI and then into the DVI port with a small HDMI to DVI adapter. I have NEVER had an issue.
What solved it was using my HDMI splitter BEFORE going into the Onkyo. Xbox One X > Splitter > Onkyo > Projector. I originally bought the splitter to send out to the TV upstairs and projector downstairs. Now it’s protecting me from HDCP idiocy.
HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, NewBEP 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (One Input To Two Outputs)
Chris
Awesome Chris!
Thanks for posting the link of a working splitter!
hans
Hi,
if the content source output hdmi support HDCP 2.2 the plitter must support it again?
Can I use a splitter with support for HDCP 1.3 with a source with support for HDCP 2.2?
I have try it buy 95% of times I see a black screen in other 5%% of times it works.
regards
Martin
Hi Martin,
If you want HDCP 2.2 content to work all the time, you may indeed need a splitter that specifically supports this. I do not know how the implementation for backwards compatibility is. I’d think HDCP 2.2 content should be displayable on devices that support older HDCP versions, but I have seen some issues between the different HDMI versions as well (for example my home theatre system supports HDMI 1.3 but not the newer versions and occasionally that comes with unpleasant surprises).
hans
Hi
I don’t know if this exists…….
I want to feed from a couple of 4K UHD devices (not at the same time so only need one input)
I want to feed out simultaneously to some 4K Monitors (2 minimum 4 maximum) for display purposes, however I also want to be able to get the Audio as an optical/toslink signal to feed into an amp.
I want the output maintained as a 4K UHD signal, not downscaled to 1080p.
Does a single box exist that splits the HDMI and strips the HDCP and also outputs the audio as an optical output?
Thanks
Tess
Hi Tess,
are you referring to a device like this one at Amazon: “Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, Full 3D” ?
I have not tested this device, just trying to get a sense of what you’re looking for
hans
Hi Hans
Thanks for the reply, but that appears to be a 4 in 1 out unless I’ve missed something?
I want a 1 in 4 out……thus the need to also strip if I can as I understand that outputting to multiple devices isn’t supported under HDCP 2.2?
Tess
tessy
The Speaka come close to it, but it is only 2K instead of 4K (mentioned on the NL site).
Henkie60
Hi Tess,
apologies for misunderstanding.
So what I’d try is this setup:
1) From your 4K Source -> a regular HDMI splitter that strips HDCP (like mentioned a few times in this article, like this one)
2) From the HDMI splitter that strips HDCP -> a 1-in and 4-out HDMI splitter
This way you drop the HDCP signal in the first splitter and then repeat the HDMI signal in the second splitter over 4 HMDI outputs. At Amazon I found this device that might do the second step: “Movcle HDMI Splitter 1 in 4 out Full Ultra HD 1080P 4K/2K 1X4 Port Box Hub with US Adapter v1.4 Powered Certified for 3D Support“.
It would have been ideal if you’d needed only one HDMI repeater (1 in, 4 out), but I have not found one that strips HDCP let alone HDCP 2.2. So stripping the signal before it gets to the repeater would be the way to go.
hans
Hi. Probably a silly question: If I buy a DVR to replace Spectrum’s DVR, am I going to have an HDCP problem? I don’t mind paying Spectrum for content; I’m just tired of the monthly receiver/DVR rental. Second question: would my purchased DVR function also as a receiver (and might I have the same HDCP problem there, as well? Thanks for any guidance.
Bill Edwards
Michael is right! (thanks for chiming in Michael)
One note though: in the US cable providers must offer so called CableCARDs. These card, if the equipment you have is suitable for that, will work with your choice of equipment – for example a receiver you purchased from a neighbor or from eBay. See for example the Comcast Explanation.
I have used one once through Comcast, you’d still pay a $5/mo fee to use it.
I did something similar in the past with DirecTV satellite receivers. Again; your device needs to be compatible to the provider and the card they provide. At the time I purchased a couple used Tivo’s for that purpose from eBay.
As for your second question; If the DVR works with your provider and/or the card your provider provides, then yes you’d still have a HDCP issue, otherwise the provider would never approve of your DVR. You may be able to record on the DVR though, but the output would still have HDCP.
hans
Bill, your problem is similar to many of ours. We want the service without the equipment costs. Sadly, the equipment must be recognized by the service provider in their way of doing things; by key card, internal code, or whatever. But it is not like a cell phone where one gets a new sim card.
I will assume that you meant to buy a used vendor-supplied unit from somewhere? What if it is part of an account that was turned off for non-payment? They won’t accept it. What if it were old technology that no longer fits? They won’t accept it or new features won’t work with it. Those would be some of my personal worries. HDCP would be the last of my concerns.
I wish you the best in your search.
Michael
I’m looking for the latest and best working 1×2 HDMI splitter that will remove the HDCP warning. I have the viewHD splitter 1.3v and works well.
It has 3 chips inside. I bought another one on amazon same type and will not work. It has 2 chips inside and pc board says 1.4v.
So if anyone out here has recently bought a hdmi HDCP splitter that works it would be great if you could send the info to me or post here.
I have been following this post and most HDCP post info are old and also seems most splitters now sold say they will do HDCP but do not.
thanks dss56
Dss56
Hi DSS56,
I think your second splitter is actually a HDMI 1.4 device.
The most recent model reported to be working (by Chris) is this one at Amazon.
Since I have not tested this one myself, I cannot confirm this to be 100% correct of course.
Then again; Amazon allows you to return the item …
hans
For that particular model, at least one customer reports:
Very small and (as expected) ‘forgets’ to relay the HDCP info. Have fun using it to record protected content.
Suggesting it strips HDCP. However … not HDCP 2.x …
hans
I have just tried (july 24th 2018) ViewHD 2 Port 1×2… and doesn’t work anymore! I had an old one and had worked fine during years but now it doesn’t work anymore. HDCP blocking is working and I can’t record PS3 screens anymore. Anyone can help me?
Tec
tecnicator
Hi Tecnicator!
Well that sucks …
I can’t guarantee anything, but Chris report this one to work.
(I assume your old one died?)
hans
Hi,
I can also confirm that this splitter still successfully strips hdcp 2.2 (thanks to Chris and Hans for suggesting it).
I have a 2007 samsung plasma tv(without any version of hdcp) and yamaha rx-v385 with hdcp 2.2.
Initially it gave a distorted picture with green and black strips, but after few minutes playing with it, it started to work fine. Did few tests by rebooting rx/tv/xbox/splitter/etc, and so far it powers up without any distortions.
Just a heads up, this splitter looks and feels as cheap as its price.
P.S. I previously tried 2 models from amazon, Sewell hdmi splitter and ViewHD 2.2 to 1.4 converter, and none of them pass through video. Sewell gave black screen with audio, and ViewHD gave green screen with audio.
Eugene
Hi Eugene!
Thanks for posting confirmation on the “NewBEP HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (HDMI Splitter 1 x 2)” offered through Amazon. The more confirmation we get, the better
hans
Hi,
looking for a good hdmi splitter that can successfully strip HDCP protection for Sky Go UK iPhone/iPad app so that I can connect to a TV without needing extra box. There are some strippers that I’ve heard work with Sky’s UK boxes, but there is no mention about this for devices like iPad or iPhone.
I keep researching this as it’s important to get it right.
Any help or suggestions would be appriated.
Thanks,
Max Pell
Max Pell
Hi Max,
I am not aware of any devices offering HDCP stripping with iPad/iPhone connected TV, unless you use a Lightning to HDMI cable (some listed here). In that case a HDMI splitter (mentioned in this article and the comments) may not be needed.
Alternatively AirPlay may work, but you’d need a receiving device on the end of your TV, for example an AppleTV device.
With both options; there is no guarantee the Sky Go app supports it.
hans
Hi,
Yeah they actively try to prevent it. Tried to airplay but only sound and a message for HDCP on the screen, not only that but the iphone to hdmi adapters alone don’t help since nemerous people have stated the same thing happens, I thought if I could get a HDCP bypass stripper device this would prevent the message. After some research I’ve found one where one woman says she got her spliter working with Sky Go so am looking at that as an option.
Max Pell
I did some more snooping around, now that I was thinking of the same thing for Netflix …
I noticed that NetFlix allows this – if you use the correct cable. See this article on the Netflix website.
When looking at cheap converters on Amazon, pretty much all of them state that Netflix and such will NOT work.
Also, I noticed on the Apple website that it’s actually the Sky Go app that is preventing an adapter to work (reference) – so a splitter wouldn’t help. The video is simply not fed to the adapter.
Strange though that sound IS coming through? Suggesting it may be fixable with a stripper.
I did see that Sky Go UK may be available for the AppleTV – if you have an AppleTV (link, you’ll have to scroll down to see the confirmations).
From what I have found so far; Sky is not making it easy …
hans
Hi,
Oh no! Well I guess that’s the end of that. I did think about building a portable box where a web cam would capture the output of the device and then trasmit it to TV (not sure if that would look good haha), would need some way of doing this with the audio too. I guess it’s a lost cause
Max Pell
Using a webcam would indeed look really bad
…
I guess you’re stuck with getting one or the other box – I did see there is an Android app for Sky Go, but I’m not sure what Android boxes/Devices may support HDMI output.
hans
I know this is an old thread but I do have IPTV with a mag box. I record in real time.
I use a hdmi splitter 1 in 2 out, 1 out to tv and the other out to a HD recorder Avermedia 310 recorder. Records great.
I get all the Sky Channels and can record with no problem but you need a hdmi splitter to eliminate the hdcp.
Only problem is IPTV and if KODI are not reliable, as the picture could
freeze stop all kinds of things and ruins the recording. If it does
record completely its great quality in HD using the Avermedia. No time
settings you have to be there to start and stop the recording.
Here in the states we need a splitter that will eliminate HDCP.
If you dont use it will put a logo on screen and not allow you to record.
Lots of people with sony game consoles use this to record them playing the games and need the HDCP splitter.
What is HDCP? HDCP
stands for High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a
copy protection scheme to eliminate the possibility of
intercepting digital data midstream between the source to
the display. The format designed by Intel and licensed by
Digital Content Protection, LLC using an authentication
and key exchange procedure before video and audio is
presented. Products compatible with the HDCP scheme such
as DVD players, satellite and cable HDTV set-top-boxes, as
well as few entertainment PCs requires a secure
connection to a compliant display, the process often described as
the handshake. Due to the increase in manufacturers
employing HDCP in their equipment, it is highly recommended that
any HDTV you purchase is compatible. Although most video
devices support high-definition video over component output,
analog connections are scheduled to phase out in the future
or possibly forced to limited resolutions output.
dss56
Hi,
I enjoy with your exploit, and I have got myself a splitter that removes HDCP protection.
What is your remover and did you bought it recently?
Thx
Tecnicator