I’ve been playing with ambient light for my TV for a while now, as you can see in the “Ambient TV lighting with XBMC Boblight, OpenElec and WS2811/WS2812 LEDs“, to make colorful lights (LEDs) light up matching the video you’re seeing on your TV.
The downside of that project is that it only works for a dedicated HTPC running for example Kodi (XBMC).
But what if I’d like to see this with video from my XBox 360, XBox One, Wii, or … Blu-ray player or cable box?
Besides the fact that we need to grab this video, and all it’s technical complications, we will be running into a copy protection issue called HDCP, a HDMI feature nobody really asked for.
Please note that I’m not writing this article to promote pirating content! This article is solely aimed at using non-HDCP compliant equipment with equipment that seems to require HDCP. So I’m looking at older HDMI LCD/LED/Plasma TV’s, HDMI Projectors, Game Recording (PS3), taking screenshots for documentation and/or articles, and of course my own little project to generate ambient light behind my TV! Please keep this in mind.
HDCP is a copy protection that was added to the HDMI standard, at a later time, by Intel.
The first HDMI versions did not include HDCP, but most modern HDMI capable devices support it.
The content, or content source (where the “output” comes from), determines if HDCP is needed, and is/was intended to prevent content to be displayed or recorded by unauthorized devices. See it as the digital counter part of MacroVision as was used with analog video way back in the day.
HDCP uses authorization and encryption – it verifies (authenticate) the receiving party (Destination or “input”) – i.e. The video sources asks for the secret code from the destination device, before it sends content, so the receiving party is authorized and can decrypt. Even though the master key for decryption has been compromised since 2010 and some smart folks assembled a device for demonstration purposes, HDCP is still in full use. Just like those idiotic region codes of DVD’s and BluRay’s. Non compliant devices, an old (HDMI) TV for example, will simply display a message that the content cannot be displayed or will display a blank screen.
Naturally a “HDCP remover” or “HDCP Stripper” device is not readily available to the public … or is it?
CAUTION: Not intended to promote illegal copying and/or piracy!
I cannot emphasize this enough! This article was not written with illegal copying, ripping or to promote piracy.
The sole purpose is to be able to use non-HDCP compliant equipment with HDCP video sources.
This can be you old TV or projector, or trying to record game playing (PS3), making screenshots, or … my little ambient light project.
Bypassing HDCP with the intend to copy/pirate content is MOST CERTAINLY ILLEGAL in most countries!
Methods to Remove HDCP from HDMI
Convert to Analog
One of the methods used, yet sometimes complicated and expensive, is by converting the signal for example to VGA, Component or Composite video. This conversion to an analog signal will result in a degraded picture quality, but the result might not be too bad.
Note that some converters do honor HDCP and might not work either.
For my Ambient Light project I’ve considered using this, since I only need a low resolution representation of the video – Ideally I’d prefer a video output of say 160 x 90 pixels 
. But more about that once I’ve finished that project.
p.s. One user (Brett) reported this HDMI-to-Component to work. Here is the Amazon link!
Select a Different (Analog) Video Output
Some devices, like the PlayStation 3 for example, have Component (good for 1080p if your TV supports it!), S-Video or Composite video output as well. HDCP does not support analog connections and you should be able to view the video just fine on non-HDCP devices. The video quality may however be of a lower quality (Component Video is recommended – see also “Connect your PC to TV“) as well.
Firmware Setting
Some devices, like a PlayStation 4 console, offer the option to disable HDCP. The downside can be that some apps, which require HDCP, will not work when HDCP is disabled.
For more details “PlayStation 4 HDCP toggle must be off to record games, on to watch video apps“.
Note that quite a lot of devices, like the XBox One, XBox 360 and for example the Amazon Fire TV, dynamically set HDCP on their HDMI ports. This means that for example the navigation menu of the Amazon Fire TV and certain non-HDCP apps will work just fine. However, as soon as you play HDCP content (Amazon Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc), your screen will turn black.
The way to go is a cheap HDMI Splitter, if you find the right one
Another, much easier and cheaper method, is the use of a HDMI splitter.
A splitter in essence makes it possible to (for example) connect 2 TV’s to one HDMI source, not designed to strip the HDCP, but some actually do exactly that. The example below illustrates a 1×2 splitter.
HDMI Splitter – On source, Two (or more) Destinations
Some HDMI splitters (I have seen 1×2 and 1×4 splitters) by accident strip the HDCP encryption, and the funny part is that these are typically very cheap splitters. However, keep in mind: there is absolutely no guarantee that every HDMI splitter strips HDCP. Even the ones listed below might or might not do the trick.
Key with these splitters seems to be that they support up to HDMI 1.3b, which does not need to be a big problem unless you’re planning on blasting 4K or even 8K video over the HDMI cable. Another commonality seems to be that they appear cheap China products.
Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.
HDMI Splitters that have been reported to strip HDCP
These are NOT guaranteed to work!
Manufacturers change hardware all the time, so this “feature” might not work with newer models or revisions! HDMI 1.4 (and newer) devices will most likely not work! I highly recommend, definitely at Amazon, to read the most recent customer comments carefully!
Some splitters need to have the HDMI cables connected BEFORE you power them on!
Below a list with splitters that have been reported to actually strip HDCP.
If you find other models that work, or find out that a model is no longer supporting this, then please report this in the comments.
Testing HDCP removal
The way I tested my setup, is by using a non-HDCP device as the destination device, and my Amazon Fire TV playing Netflix or Amazon Video content. Finding such a device shouldn’t be a problem, otherwise you’d probably not be reading this article.
For those with a PlayStation 3 – it seems that the PS3 always has HDCP enabled, unless you have a developer device (unlikely), so that or a BluRay player would work well as a source too. For other devices, the general rule is that HDCP will be enabled when copyrighted content (eg. a movie) is being played.
First test the “failing” setup …
In my case I used a device to record game playing, specifically the Elgato Game Capture HD game capture device (homepage), which shows a black screen when playing HDCP content or an error message, as demonstrated below.
HDCP Error when using the Elgato Game Capture HD
Without the splitter, your video output (Amazon Fire TV in this example, when doing playback of content HDCP) might show a message like this:
HDCP Error Message (Amazon Fire TV)
Then test the setup with a HDMI splitter …
After installing the splitter, the HDCP seems to be stripped and video recording or making screenshots works just fine.
Caution …
I’d like to point out, again, that this method:
- Might or might not work with the HDMI splitter of your choosing, even the ones listed above, …
- Do not use this method to copy and/or pirate copyrighted content! It is ILLEGAL in most countries, …
- This method is solely written with the intend to make screenshots and/or use non-HDCP compliant equipment.
With Splitter the Elgato Game Capture HD works just fine …
Other Resources
I didn’t think of all of this myself, just collected what I had learned and compiled if for Tweaking4All visitors.
Some of the information I did get from the following resources to remove HDCP from HDMI:
Comments
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Now I’m really looking forward to which device you’re gonna hook up for that universal ambilight. The fact that I currently need a USB port to connect my Karatelight to is what keeps me from using FireTV as my primary player. Also, ambilight for my trusty old PS3 would be cool.
Tim
Well, it seems the way to go is using one of these splitters, one output to the TV, and the other one to a HDMI2AV converter (convert HDMI to Analog video). The analog video then goes to a cheap $16 USB Video grabber which is compatible with OpenElec on Raspberry Pi.
I thought I had to reinvent the wheel here, but it seems already available at LightBerry.eu …
Anyhow, I have all my HDMI devices connected to a Yamaha receiver, which has one HDMI out for the TV … so I’ll tap off the feed there and all my devices should work, including OpenElec running on my Raspberry Pi (I just got the model 2).
Less challenging than expected, it seems, but I’m sure there will be some challenges left … ie. use my WS2812 LEDs instead of the WS2801 LEDs used in the LightBerry setup, or see if I can use an old Raspberry Pi model A for just this task. So I do expect to write an article soon …
hans
I tried to do the same setup:
PS4 is connected to my AV Receiver, and I was thinking to use a splitter and grabber to connect to my AV Receiver HDMI out. It works BUT I lost my ARC-capabilities of the HDMI port. I don’t know why but I read that splitting the HDMI-out from a receiver could give problems. I also tried connecting the Raspberry Pi to my Yamaha Receiver, but I couldn’t controle Raspberry Pi anymore with my TV-remote…
ray
Thanks for the heads-up Ray!
I did not think of that … so I’ll have to decide: ARC functionality or Ambi-light … hmm …
OK, so I’ll admit that I had to do some Google work on this one …
ARC (Audio Return Channel) was introduced with HDMI 1.4, which would mean that with this splitter (HDMI 1.3!) you’d loose ARC … and I only use ARC for the Audio when using the in the TV build receiver (= rarely). However, this is independent of the remote functionality.
I have been wondering too, if 2 devices would send Audio back over ARC, then what should our receiver do with this?
At least I’m aware now that I might loose the Return Audio.
CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) however is why your remote isn’t working that way anymore.
HDMI 1.3 should support this, but I can imagine that a “splitter” can cause issues here … I’m just guessing that the complication can be found in who controls what …
Unfortunately, this (CEC) didn’t work on my setup to begin with – so instead I use a “Smart Powerstrip“. Once the TV goes on, my Yamaha receiver and media devices switch on automatically as well.
hans
So this IS the BEST and cheapest solution to stripping HDCP from an HDMI source. It works everytime!
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011303&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2
Willy
Thanks Willy for posting this one!
Wow, nice and compact … and cheap!
Are there any other users who can confirm this?
hans
i took a gamble on one of these things and it’s not stripping HDCP for me, so to anybody else who’s looking for a cheap solution to this problem, keep that in mind!
bb!
Hi BB!
Thanks for posting your findings here!!
Since I do not have one of these, I was just wondering:
Did you try HDCP stripping while (for example) one port had a HDCP compliant device connected? I have seen and heard about devices that actually require a valid HDCP device on one port for it to work.
hans
Just ordered one. Their ad specifically states it strips the signal. I’ll reply again after recieving the item and testing.
FriedmanFr
Hi FriedmanFr!
Cool, well let us know if it works and please post the link!
hans
I just bought one of these on the advice here and can confirm it does not strip HDCP. I have a working setup with an old OREI HD-102 (the new ones also don’t work and look identical) and with the old OREI in place I can record on my game recorder but swap out that one component for this one and it no longer records. Also does not matter whether second device attached or which output port is used. So ,,, do not buy this for HDCP removal. (Also don’t buy recent stock of OREI HD-102 :-/ )
GTX
Thanks GTX for the feedback! This is excellent information.
So for other readers: Stay away from the OREI HD-102 HDMI splitters.
hans
Many sellers on ebay say their splitter will do HDCP but most will not so best is to hope someone here will report a good working splitter and where it was bought from. I have 2 splitters that work bought from Amazon. I have posted in an earlier post here. Well I decided to buy another and does not work. I opened a working one and a non working one the newer one had another on board chip and both were advertised as 1.3version. When opened the pc board on new said 1.4 version so most sellers are not telling the truth about stripping the HDCP. I have like a said an earlier post with the models. I’m sure its a view-HD >VHD-1X2MN3D. Its the newer one and I sent back. Both have same model # and Look the same but If you open up the pc boards will have the version of the splitter.
Someone has to of bought one recently and has worked. Hope they will report it here.
Mine is a simple setup Cable box> to in of splitter>1 port to tv HDMI 1> 2nd port to a an Aver Media 310 HD recorder and the recordings are great recording HD material> and to TV HDMI 2 so I can bypass going to the recorder. Also have IPTV Satellite setup and can record that also with the Aver Media 310. All recording are to an external 4TB hard drive. I have quite a library some recorded and some downloaded and moved to the 4TB HD.
Also have a Cable box dvr that can record 5 channels at same time. But have to record to the Aver Media 310 in real time to have my own recording. That is where the splitter comes into play recording live tv or DVR recording.
I have given up looking for a splitter as I have 2 and 1 that I got refunded and was told to keep the splitter.
Good luck for the HDCP hunt if I see anything I will report here.
dss56/Bob
dss56
Thank you so very much. I used the ViewHD with HDMI version 1.3b and it worked without a hitch. My working setup is Roku 3 -> ViewHD -> Yamaha HTR 3063 -> BenQ SH 910. The ViewHD is plugged into HDMI 1 and the BenQ is plugged into HDMI Out, which is the HDMI monitor port.
Prior to this this setup, Roku 3 -> Yamaha -> BenQ produced sound without picture and Roku 3 -> BenQ -> audio out to Yamaha audio, produced picture with no sound and the HDCP error. It also resulted in significant hair loss.
I’m happy now and not quite bald.
Joey
Awesome Joey!
Glad to hear there is still some hair left
…
Which ViewHD did you use? Do you have a link? Or is it the one listed in the article?
hans
I can confirm the “ViewHD 1×2 HDMI Splitter v1.3b One Input to Two Output” eBay ~$20 works with Roku-4 and a non-HDCP 1080p panel. The damn Roku-4 will need an upstream HDCP compliant device no matter what content you play from it (even home movies).
Thanks for guiding us to a solution.
HDCPStripper
Thanks HDCPStripper!
Good news to get yet another confirmation of a splitter that does HDCP stripping.
Can’t wait until we find one that supports HDCP 2.x (4K video and such).
Thanks for posting!
hans
Hi, has anyone any experience with getting a Panasonic hard drive recorder such as model hwt130 working through a splitter?. It seems to switch off its hdmi output as soon as any form of splitter is connected, yet a similar (except for blue ray drive)Panasonic model pwt420 works via a splitter. Wonder if Panasonic have blocked it on the slightly newer hwt130 if so can it be over ridden?
Dp
I have no experience with the HWT130 and I’d carefully assume it to be a lot of work for Panasonic to block all “known” splitters.
Then again, you splitter may be using a banned ID for DHCP, which may prevent it from working? I’m just guessing here.
hans
Question. I am trying to take my hdmi tv and my hauppauge recorder and record thru my Roku box. Will this hdmi splitter work in taking off the HDCP for recording purposes?
midnight
Considering that these splitters tend to change over time, there is no guarantee. Manufacturers do change their specs occasionally and officially these splitters were of course never intended to be HDCP strippers. That’s kinda why we are trying here to share experiences.
However having said that: it is very likely, oh and don’t forget: Amazon and Ali-Express are good sources for these splitters as well.
hans
Any idea how fast that will be? Sounds like there will be a lag between colors on TV and ambilight colors.
Tim
Based on the video’s (for example this one on YouTube), I’d say it works pretty good and the delay is negligible … at least for me it is.
Specially considering the split, strip, convert, analyze and LED steps …
hans
Thank you for the post. I have a videowall 3×2 when i use it with a PC is working perfect in the six LG monitors. The problem is when i connect the videowall with a playstation or a bluray player. When i do that is not showing images in the six monitors its only showing in one. One technician said its problem with HDCP. What do you recommend to see movies in the videowall with a bluray player or a playstation? Thank you very much.
hernan
Hi Hernan,
I have never worked with video wall controllers, but I cannot confirm that HDCP would be the issue – although, you can test this notion easily with the HDMI splitters I mention in this article, and they are not that expensive either.
I assume a video wall controller splits the video feed into sections to the connected monitors. So the video is decoded (HDCP removed) before it can do that. Maybe yours defaults to one specific output when it can’t “decode”?
Again, I’m no expert when it comes to video wall controllers, but the ones I have found proudly announce HDCP support. Which brand/model do you have?
hans
[…] Tweaking4All.com – How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal …: “” […]
[…] Here is a good read and includes several possible HDCP strippers/splitters … Tweaking4All.com – How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal … […]
Interesting! The things they are doing now a days to fight for their intellectual property….dang hollywood….you going hungry?? Are you kids getting a well education?? And enough to eat?? Maybe we need to replace the leather seats or completely redecorate your mansion?? What’s that…. and your still rich??… wow…. ok well I’m dead broke. but I have intellectual ummm.. property too….piece.
Henrx
Couldn’t agree more … spending millions on copy protection and so called CopyrightTrolls.
Dont’ get me wrong; I understand the need for protection of intellectual property up to a point, but sometimes it simply makes normal use stupid and/or impossible.
Case and point DVD/BluRay region codes, crippling older HDMI equipment, buying a movie but not being allowed to view it on all your devices (ie. cellphone/tablet), etc.
Anyhow, this article was not written to circumvent copy protection and promote piracy, but to be able to use something like Boblight or and older HDMI projector – things to enjoy watching movies one has purchased legally.
hans
Just wondering if there are any options in order to put a splitter in a vehicle at all ??
I have an Alpine Stereo now that are hooked up to 2 x DVD Headrests but I can’t get the HDMI signal through to the headrests, thinking it’s almost certainly a HDCP problem, so wanted to put in a splitter.
However they all seem to be mains powered, so I’m looking for a fix around this or a HDMI splitter that is USB powered, any suggestions guys pleeeeeease !!??
Cheers
BarnsyBDC
Hi BarnsyBDC,
The splitter that I have uses a 5V, 1A power brick.
This would be too much for regular a USB port, but definitely workable for one of those in-car USB chargers for your cellphone that can be bought for cheap.
p.s. when you look at the pictures of the one I got from Amazon (2nd pic) then you’ll see the round 5V connector.
hans
Thanks Hans. There is actually a USB port coming off the alpine deck as well which is there for fast smart phone charging / connectivity so I am hopeful this will have enough oomph to power a HDMI splitter powered by USB :) thanks again for your input I appreciate it
BarnsyBDC
You’re welcome!
hans
Hi again Hans
So I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?
ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster ;)
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
FWIW,
I ordered three items from the list above:
Robert
Thanks Robert for reporting your findings … did the 3rd one work?
I’m a little disappointed to hear the CKITZE GB-520 fail – works just fine with mine.
Do you have any specific model number/serial or other indicator so we can compare it with mine?
For example: I noticed a few models that silently had update from HDMI 1.3 to 1.4, where the 1.4 models fail stripping HDCP.
hans
Hans (solo :-)
I initiated a return with eBay for the 3rd one before it was actually shipped by the vendor (I received the other two items and the shipping company still didn’t have the package from the eBay seller). I don’t know if they’ll ship it to me anyway and make me ship it back to them. If they do, I’ll test it before doing so. FWIW, the 3rd item was the least expensive option by far (not $20 but $11.40 per unit).
Re: the 2nd item, the CKITZE GB-520, they manufacturer may have updated the firmware but I don’t see anything that would help identify the ones I received vs the one you tested.
The 1st item, ViewHD, worked great.
– Robert
Robert
Thanks again Robert – I’ll update the article to reflect the new info.
hans
Hans,
As I suspected, the vendor did not cancel the order so I was able to test the third item and it works. The housing is plastic vs metal but it can be powered via a USB port which is nice. In summary, item’s 1 and 3 worked but item 2 did not. That’s all I have for now.
– Robert
Robert
Awesome Robert!
Thanks for the info!
hans
Hi Robert
I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this first item you purchased that worked for you…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?
ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster ;)
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
Don’t forget to double check out + and – too … usually the + is the center “hole” of the connector, but some manufacturer do it the other way around (+ outside, – inside).
hans
There are dozens of socket/pin sizes. That being said, it looks like 5.5mm x 2.1mm as you surmised. To be sure, you can always build the cable using the wall wart that’s included with the unit and a USB cable that passes power by connecting power & ground to power & ground. The wall wort output says 5v 1amp. I haven’t looked into the power output of the various USB standards. I hope this helps.
Robert
I’d probably do the same – use the wire that is connected to the power brick.
Use a multimeter to test which of the 2 wires is +.
That said: if you have a USB connector that allows you to charge cellphones (which often provide 1A or more, with 5V), then you should probably be fine.
hans
Hi again Robert
I read that the third item you tested worked fine and could be powered by USB, which is what I am after.
Any chance you could post in the link as to where you purchased it from so I can order one for myself?
Would be truly appreciated.
Cheers mate
BarnsyBDC
Hello, I am trying to connect my Xfinity X1 cable box which only has an HDMI out port through my Hauppauge HDPVR2 1512 with component cables (because of the encryption) to my TV then to to my computer to record a ballgame. I did this in the past with my old Xfinity cable box that had component cable out ports. I found a Portta video converter that has an HDMI in port to component out ports and was wondering if anyone knows if it will work to get the game copied to my computer. Thanks.
JeffG
Hi Jeff,
I’m not familiar with a Portta Video converter, but your problem is most likely HDMI HDCP protection on the HDMI out of your Cable Box.
I don’t know if Portta Video Converter will strip the HDCP. However, if you add one of the HDMI splitters between your Cable Box and your video converter (which converts HDMI to component), then theoretically, you should be good to go.
So HDMI out of Cable Box goes to splitter, one output of the Splitter to your TV (of your cable box has only one HDMI out), and the other output of the splitter to your HDMI-to-Component converter. The Component of your HDMI-to-Component converter to your Hauppauge, and your Hauppauge to your TV. … wow that were a lot of words haha … hope this clears it up …
hans
Thanks Hans, I appreciate the help… I do not have the Portta video converter yet but I think I will order one to see if that works. It sounds like I need to get an HDMI splitter as well since the cable box only has 1 HDMI output.
JeffG
Hi Jeff,
I’m not sure how expensive a Portta Video Converter is, but … it might be easier to get a splitter (as listed above), and combine it with a Elgato GameCapture HD.
The setup would be easy:
Cable Box HDMI -> Elgato -> Computer (suitable for Windows, Mac).
Pretty simple setup and works really well and captures in great quality.
You wouldn’t loose quality by converting either.
hans
Thanks again Hans, I already purchased a splitter and a video converter device for $27 so if that doesn’t work I’m not out much, just waiting on them to arrive in the mail… do you know if the Elgato Game Capture Device (which looks to only have HDMI ports, 1 in & 1 out) could be used as the pass through device to record live tv to my computer? That is what I used the Hauppauge PVR for until I got the xfinity X1 cable box that only has the 1 HDMI out port. If the Elgato does that I might get it but I was under the impression that the HDCP protection would not allow you to record programming through HDMI cables like you could through Component Cables.
JeffG
Hi Jeff!
Yes, the Elgato Game CaptureHD is a pass-through device, so you can use it to do live recordings from your TV/Cable box. In it’s basic setup, it basically “sits” between your cable box and your TV (for example). The USB cable then goes to your PC so you can record the video on your PC with the provided software of Elgato.
This works great for a HDMI signal that does not have HDCP protection.
Since the Elgato cannot record HDCP protected HDMI signal, one of these cheap splitters is needed to remove the HDCP protection before it gets to the Elgato.
So the splitter will actually take the HDCP protected HDMI input, and then output that same signal minus the HDCP protection on both splitter HDMI outputs. This way the Elgato can actually read the signal.
That setup would look something like this:
Cable box –> HDMI Splitter (HDCP stripper) –> Elgato –> TV
with a USB cable coming from the Elgato, which goes to your PC.
You could of course also connect the TV straight to the splitter instead of the HDMI output of the Elgato.
hans
Hi there,
Thanks for sharing this great article; it has educated an otherwise tech-ignorant Luddite!
I wanted to ask if you know anyway to adapt a HDCP compliant splitter so that it will strip HDCP protocol? I have an Aten VS184 which is being rather uncooperative in trying to split my digital TV box between my TV and a projector, so before I go buy another non-HDCP splitter, I wondered if I could encourage the Aten to play ball?!
Any assistance much appreciated!
Thanks
Steve
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thank you very much for the compliment, it’s very much appreciated!
As for modifying an existing non-HDCP-stripping HDMI splitter … ehm I do not think that would be an easy task.
I have read somewhere, so this might not be 100% true, that the cheap splitters that do strip HDCP, actually use a chip that belongs in a TV, and therefor is identified as a “compliant” device, allowing to strip HDCP. If that is the fact, then the chip in your splitter would be the wrong one. Probably easier and more feasible to buy one of those cheap ones that do work.
hans
Thanks again Hans, When I receive the splitter and video converter I’ll let you know how well it works with the Hauppauge PVR pass through device.
JeffG
Sounds good
hans
Hans, I received the HD video converter box in the mail and it worked. I was able to get a test program recorded from my cable box to my computer.
How it looks… HDMI cable out of the Cable box and into the HD video converter box, then component cables out of the HD converter and into the Hauppauge PVR and HDMI cable from the Hauppauge PVR to the TV, then USB cable from the Hauppauge PVR to PC. I actually did not need the extra HDMI splitter, but now I have one in case I ever need one.
Simple really haha. Thanks again for your help.
JeffG
Awesome Jeff!
Glad you got it to work
…
hans
Hey Guys,
Does anyone have any experience with any of the 1 x 4 splitters? I have gone thru several different types of the 1 x 2 splitters with limited success. I have gotten the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 powered HDMI Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3D) to work (Mac Mini output to Splitter : Output 1 to TV and Output 2 to Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record). Now home, I hook the splitter up to the HDMI output of my Onkyo receiver (that has various HDMI inputs – Bluray, Apple TV, cable box) send Output 1 to the TV and Output 2 to the LGP. LGP no longer records.
Does the splitter need to be between the device (Bluray, AppleTV, Cable Box) before outputting to the reciever which outputs to the TV? What are the setups that others are using when a stereo receiver is in the mix?
I have an HDMI to component converter that feeds a Blackmagic H.264 recorder, and this works fine except the resulting MP4 is skewed to the left resulting in a slight loss of picture and vertical black line on the right side of the file. There’s no adjustment for this and I assume it is partially due to the HDCP. Trying to make this a straight HDMI feed. The LGP is just an easier setup because it can be used as standalone whereas the Blackmagic H.264 is dependent on a secondary computer.
Thank you for any help/suggestions.
Trev
Trevor
Hi Trev,
I have no experience with 1×4 splitters, but good experience with 1×2 splitters (or I just got very lucky).
There are a few things I’ve read while researching the topic;
1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.
I’m guessing the splitter will use the first device to swap ID’s and such.
Not sure if the 2nd device can be connected at startup of the source device, or should be connected after things on the first output are up and running.
2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.
I have no clue how problematic that could be with 1.4 or newer HDMI devices. Although I cannot imagine that all 1.4+ devices would cripple pre-1.4 devices, can you imagine how many TV’s would need to be tossed?
3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.
In those cases your setup should just work … I’d assume.
Something I’d try first is connecting a TV instead of the LGP, just to see if there is anything to begin with.
You did bring an interesting suggestion though; putting the splitter between source and your Onkyo,
Worth a test I would say, and it would s*ck if this would become the way to work.
hans
Hello Hans!
Thank you for your quick reply. I guess what I need to know, what are guys, that got this to work, doing with multiple devices (Cable Box. FireTV, AppleTV, Bluray, Game Console). Do they put a single splitter after every device? Send all devices into an HDMI switch (Multiple Inputs to 1 HDMI Output) and then to the 1×2 Splitter? Or like me, all devices into a receiver with an HDMI output (in my case the Onkyo has 2 HDMI outputs).
My original setup was – devices HDMIs to Onkyo receiver. Onkyo main HDMI output to TV. Onkyo sub HDMI to HDMI to Component Converter. Component Converter to Blackmagic H.264 recorder (hooked to a Mac Mini running Blackmagic software for recording). This works great, except for the slightly misaligned picture. If I hook up the ElGato EyeTV HD with component inputs- no signal is seen coming from the Component Converter.
So, in place of the the HDMI to Component Converter I added the Splitter. Output 1 to the TV, Output 2 to the LGP. No dice. Swapped the Outputs on the Switcher. Still nothing. Tested the LGP and it is passing the signal thru itself to the TV, just no go on the record side. The reasons I’m trying to use the LGP – 1) Video straight thru via HDMI and 2) using the LGP as a standalone unit thus freeing up my Mac Mini for other uses.
I’ve tried a Sewell, a no name splitter, and the ViewHD, all are 1×2 splitters. So if there is anyone that has had any luck using the 1×4 splitter, I would be greatful to find out which one works and a link to where it can be bought.
To your responses:
1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.
Yes, I did make sure that the TV was on the first output. Then tried the second output.
2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.
I have pretty much made sure not to do any firmware upgrades on the devices to avoid HDMI Standard 1.4. But it wouldn’t surprise me if the manufacturers wanted us to all invest in new TVs. HD 1080p was supposed to be enough but now they are pushing 4K sets on us. Great
3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.
Yes, that seemed to be the case. I have a feeling that I’m just too late to the game getting any of the early splitters that work this way.
I hope that anyone who has recently purchased a 1×2 or 1×4 Splitter and had it work in the way we’ve been talking about, will add to this discussion. A new list of working splitters, with model numbers, date aquired, date of actual HDCP decryption and links to where the splitter was bought would be fantastic.
In all my web searches, this has been the best sight with any kind of helpful information in this issue. Highest of praise to the moderators!!
I’m heading to my parents house for the week, so I’m done trying anything else for the day. When I get back I will try putting the splitter directly after the device before going thru the Onkyo and get back with the results. Again, thank you Hans for your valued input!
Trevor
Hi Trevor,
First of all; thanks for the compliments!
I would expect that most would feed all HDMI’s to their receiver, and have the output of the receiver connected to the splitter. From there go to TV and recorder (or what I’m planning to do: to an AmbiLight/Boblight setup). I haven’t had much of a chance to test this though.
So basically your old setup, with the splitter on your HDMI main output (instead of the the sub). Could it be that the sub output is actually causing the issue? Did you try that?
As for TV’s, did you see they already started pushing 8K TV’s?
I don’t think I’ll be upgrading my 1080p TV anytime soon haha. Who knows; by the time it’s dying we might be looking at 4 more generations haha.
hans
To anyone having issues with the black screen for fire tv updates, I’ve tried several splitters. The only one that has removed hdcp was KanexPro SP-HD1X24K 4K HDMI 2-Port Splitter. Got it at my local Fry’s for about 30 bucks. Removes hdcp.
milo
Thanks Milo for posting the link for a working HDMI splitter/DHCP stripper …
hans
Can you please post which model it is? The one at the link says it’s HDMI 1.4 that supports up to 4k so I’m guessing it was updated recently? Thanks. Am looking for a working splitter.. Seems like I’m just a couple months or so too late apparently..
dominick_7
I have the suspicion that the HDMI 1.4 / 4K models are indeed the models that do NOT work for HDCP stripping.
You could also look at AliExpress – they shamelessly mention their splitters to strip HDPC, I guess regulations are a little different there
I have done some shopping there in the past and it always has been a good experience. Downside is that shipping usually takes about 2 weeks.
hans
Thanks for the reply. Yea think you’re likely right. The problem is even the ones that are listed as 1.3 if they’re 1.3b Ive seen those can also be compatible with 1.4.
That site for some reason confuses me. Do you happen to see any that look promising you could share please? For some reason everything on it looks shady to me for some reason lol. Probably just not familiar enough with it to know what to look for. Haha probably.
Cool, I can wait… I guess.. have the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 sitting there waiting to be used as of yesterday.
dominick_7
Yeah AliExpress has a reputation when it comes to confusing customers – very true!
Contradicting statements (advertise HDMI 1.4, but listing 1.3b), poor translations from Chinese (I guess), and incomplete info (HDCP stripper in the title, but nowhere to be found in the text).
What I’d do:
– look for one that actually states “HDCP Stripper” in the title and in the body (text)
– look at reviews/comments, see if anyone confirms that it actually strips HDCP
– contact the seller an ask if it’s REALLY stripping HDCP (you’ll find that option, on the left, just under the “main” picture, under the heading “Sold By”)
AliExpress has buyer protection and in my experience the sellers are pretty eager to make sure you’re not complaining about them. So if you order one (for example this one – $11 with free shipping) you at least have reasons for them to correct the situation if the splitter is not doing HDPC stripping). So far, and I have ordered stuff with them plenty of times in the past, I have encountered only one instance where I had to complain with the seller. They fixed it pretty quick, and send me a free new item (this was not an HDMI splitter).
hans
So it seems :) Glad I’m not the only one that thinks that. The ones I’ve seen on eBay and I think also Amazon will advertise 1.3c but compatible with 1.4. Yea maybe. Mhmm.
Ended up buying the HDFury Integral because I was the highest quality recordings and a cheapo one from eBay. Bought the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 for me and thinking that I’ll trade in my 1212 for a Gaming Edition one. If the cheap one doesn’t work the AliExpress one looks nice ty for the recommendation.
dominick_7
Do you know the model# and specs? Seems that this one supports 4k so I’m assuming they updated it to where it won’t strip HDCP anymore..
dominick_7
Anyone have positive experience with the following device?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TF9MCXU?psc=1
Brian
That looks like something that could work well … reviews state recording HDCP protected video. Hmm. Interesting.
I have no experience with it though,…
hans
Just saw your post with the link and ordered it from Amazon. Supposed to be here by Saturday so I will let you know how it does. I’ve kinda sidestepped my recording HDMI for the moment to record a bunch of old family VHS tapes. But as soon as the device arrives, I will put it to the test and post my findings here.
Trev
Ok. Crap. Says that the device might not arrive till around Dec 22nd. Ok. I will be getting back to you with a report on this as soon as it arrives…
Trev
I looked at that expected delivery date as well … Somewhere between Dec 22 and Jan 11?
I guess it’s being shipped from China ..?
Let us know how well it works once you’ve received and tested one – I’m curious!!!
hans
Just checked Amazon and yes, it is coming from China. Got the following in an email from the company:
Thank you for your purchase and prompt payment. Your item has been shipped by registered airmail today. The detailed information of shipping as below:
Item title: HDMI-Cloner Box Suite (latest firmware)
Estimated arrival time: 7-10 days
In the process of recording certain video sources, TV may display black screen. Please proceed as follows:
1. Please confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
2. Please press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.
If your TV still displays black screen, please proceed as follows.
1. Power off HDMI-Cloner Box and restart it again.
2. Wait for 10 seconds, and then confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
3. Press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.
There are more step-by-step instructions with both texts and pictures at our website.
HDMI-Cloner Helper is the bonus software of HDMI-Cloner Box Suite, which is a smart program to merge files, trim video, create DVD/Blu-ray movie discs from video file, etc. This is your registration information for the HDMI-Cloner Helper.
Please download the software on ClonerAlliance Inc.’s official website.
So as soon as it arrives, I will put it to the test and report back here. Brian – Thanks again for posting this devices link!
Trev
Awesome! Kind-a sounds like this gadget would record even HDCP protected HDMI, which would be great.
Please post your findings, I might order one as well …
hans
YAY!!! The HDMI Cloner Box arrived! It actually arrived yesterday but just picked it up today. It took just under 2 weeks to get here from China, so I’m thoroughly pleased with that (Amazon estimated a Jan 11th delivery). As soon as I get home from work, I will get it set up and get back with some details.
Trev
Awesome!!!!!!! Can’t wait to hear your findings!!!!
I bet you feel an illness coming up, so you need to go home right away haha
…
hans
4 hours and 43 minutes and counting…
Trev
I sympathize and feel the torture of waiting
…
hans
Hey Guys!
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box. I’ll add on my findings down below.
trev
Hey Guys!
Sorry it has taken awhile to get back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box. Please see the post further down.
Trev
Hello Hans!
I tried putting up a long post, but it is not posting. Any assistance is appreciated. Maybe better to put it in a forum?
trev
The Forum would be great … Maybe under the “Video” section?
I would be interested in finding out why the post failed though …
I’ll be looking forward to your findings though!!!!
hans
A review by Trev of the HMDI Cloner Box:
Note: The HMDI Cloner Box is a $100 standalone HDMI recorder, which appears to [not] strip HDCP.
This is a brief review of the HMDI Cloner Box (referred to as “C-B”) from Cloner Alliance as purchased thru Amazon (link).
Just looked at the link and now thru Christmas they are offering a 16GB USB2 thumb drive instead of the 2GB that I received.
I am continuing to test this on 2 separate Samsung LED HDTVs, so bare with me. With both setups, I have a BluRay player and an Apple TV3 going HDMI into an Onkyo Stereo receiver that has 2 HDMIs out. The primary HDMI output going to the Samsung HDTV, the secondary going to my recording device.
I have 4 different recorders. The Blackmagic H.264 and EyeTV HD, both of which require a software on a computer to record (I’m using a Mac Mini). The Avermedia Live Gamer Portable (using a 64GB SD card after setting the LGP to its highest record setting -8Mbps- using the computer software) and the recently acquired C-B.
With the C-B, I thought it best to hook it directly to the source and TV. The instructions are very simple and straightforward. I hooked up all the necessary cable (power, 2 HDMI cables – 1 In, 1 Out) then plugged in my 64GB USB 3 thumb drive formatted NTFS. According to the manual, NTFS will record a single file while FAT32 will record as many 2GB files as necessary. I then turned everything on, the LED on the HDMI Cloner box settle on blue (1080i/p), and worked my way thru the Apple TV3 to Netflix selected a movie, pressed record and let it go.
Netflix started playing but within 4 seconds paused and gave that familiar warning about HDCP.
I decided to try the trailers app instead and they seemed to play ok so I tried recording Superman vs Batman. The C-B flashed that it was recording, when the trailer finished, I hit the rec/stop button, the C-B flashed a few times showing it was finishing its write to the USB flash drive. Took the drive to my Mac and there was NO file.
I tried several reformats of the 64GB USB drive and no recorded file after multiple attempts. I then tried the 2GB drive that came with the C-B, and it recorded the trailer perfectly. I then tried Netflix with the 2GB drive and still no go due to HDCP non compliance in the system.
I then got my 32GB USB 3 thumb drive, formatted it NTFS, tried a movie trailer record and no file. Reformatted it FAT32, tried recording a trailer and it worked. So this far into it, I have determined that I am not able to record to a drive larger than 32GB – Manual says it can handle 2TB storage. I will try a 2TB hard drive thru a USB 3 dock I have later.
NOTE: The Apple TV3 I am using so far has software version 7.2. The other one I have is running version 6.2. I have tried to keep at least one of them from updating the software since I originally purchased them.
NOTE: Having a flash drive with an LED helps to confirm that the C-B is actually “talking” to it since you have no other way to confirm it is till the end of the recording process. The 64GB drive had none but the 32GB one I have does and helped re-assure that something was happening.
So straight out of the box, I am having no luck in doing a straight record from an Apple TV3 with content that has HDCP.
I decided to try adding a splitter to the mix (specifically the ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D). I have 3 versions of this splitter and chose the oldest one of the three to experiment with first. So the HDMI pathway that I now have hooked up is Apple TV3 to ViewHD – Output 1 to HDMI In 1 on the TV Output 2 to the C-B with HDMI output to HDMI in 2 on the TV. This allows me to verify the signal out of the Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV and to switch over to HDMI 2 on the TV to verify the HDMI feed thru the C-B.
Sorry if some of this sounds repetitive, just trying to make sure my thought process is easy to follow.
Turning everything on, Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV comes up with a clean signal (no flashing, no blips of green digital mess like I get when the second output of the splitter is hooked up to a noncompliant HDCP device) so I switched to Input 2 of the TV and verified that the signal coming thru the C-B was fine.
I navigated thru the Apple TV3 menu to Netflix, chose a movie, started the record on the C-B then started the movie. Two hours and 40 minutes later, I stopped the record, the C-B flashed a few times and stopped. Took the USB drive to my computer and I have a single 11.94GB mp4 file. Checking it, the file is GOOD!! So the 32GB USB3 thumb drive formatted for NTFS worked properly (I thought I had reformatted it FAT32 – guess not). The file is 1080p and looks great – for Netflix. The Avermedia LGP recorder had no such luck in this configuration in place of the C-B.
When I have the time, I will try other splitters I have with this setup, as well as trying the C-P in line after my Onkyo Stereo and various other setups. I will post my findings as soon as possible.
So, my quick findings confirm that the HDMI Cloner Box, in conjunction with the ViewHD splitter, will overcome the HDCP coming from content streamed thru my Apple TV3.
This is great if you want a stand alone recorder. It sucks having to tie up a computer using software and a capture device.
hans
REVISED 10-12-2015: After reading some other posts about the HDMI Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance, I found that this device will ABSOLUTELY record HDCP signals right out of the box!! I took apart and reset all my devices and cabling. The A-TV3 HDMI straight into the C-B, to the Samsung LED HDTV HDMI Input 1. I then avigated to Netflix, picked a movie, on the C-B I pressed and held down the REC/Stop button for 5 seconds to change the LED to green (720p record). I then pressed and held down the REC/Stop button again for 5 seconds to change back to blue LED (1080p record) while selecting play on Netflix. Once the movie started playing I let go of the REC/Stop button and the C-B flashed it was recording. Once the movie was done, I hit REC/Stop on the C-B, let the LED flash a few times before it went solid, removed the 32GB thumb drive. I have a nice mp4 file of The Devil’s Advocate at 2 hours 23 minutes and 50 seconds taking up 10.95GB.
In my post above, I couldn’t get a 64GB thumb drive to work. Upon further online reading, this device seems to be picky about the thumb drive attached. So I figure I’ll get a Lexar media thumb drive since they do not throttle their record rates like Sandisk does.
So, if you are looking at this device to record HDCP content without any extra devices hooked up, it absolutely does!
Trev
Awesome! Glad to hear it DOES work!
Thanks for the update Trev!
hans
So the one shortcoming of the HDMI Cloner Box is that it will not record audio in 5.1, only stereo. Maybe a newer box is in the works that will record 5.1 or hopefully a firmware update.
Trev
That’s a slight bummer … well, I’d assume firmware updates will become available.
Did they provide a link?
hans
Good morning Hans,
Yes, here is the link to their software and firmware updates. http://www.cloner-alliance.com/download.html
The last firmware update was from May of 2015 so I pretty much assume the C-B I have has it already, but it does not address the issue of only stereo records.
Recording on the box has been going great! No need for any splitter. The C-B is super light weight and I really thought I’d been sent an empty box, but everything works as described. I do wish the C-B drew its power thru a USB port instead of a power adapter, like the Avermedia LGP since I have plenty of USB ports available. Would make it a little more portable, not having to pack an extra power supply. It does get really hot while running and I wish they had some more venting other than the vents on the bottom of the box. I have it elevated and a small USB fan blowing on it to help keep it cool. I’m half tempted to buy another one just as a backup.
Again, I can not recommend this recorder enough! Picture quality is great and if they come out with a firmware update to change the audio to a 5.1 record I would give this a full 5 stars on Amazon.
Trev
Yeah, I can imagine that people would like the 5.1 Audio …
As for getting hot; maybe open it up and place a few small heatsinks, and add some holes to the casing?
Small stuff like that getting very hot makes me nervous as well.
Does the power supply state how many Amps it’s pulling? If it gets really hot, I’d assume it will be up there, and a regular USB2 or maybe even USB3 port might not pull it off.
Thank you very much for the review – please let us know when an update appears for the 5.1 Audio.
For now, I’ll stick with my Elgato – I’m not using it for recording movies, just for screenshots or short clips and such for articles. Stripping HDPC for me is mostly so I can make Ambient lighting for my TV for ALL sources.
hans
No word yet from Cloner Alliance on an update, sadly.
Output on the adapter is 5v 2.0A.
I would take the C-B apart and drill holes in the cover if not for the warning about voiding the “waranty”. Once that time period has expired, I will be sure to modify the case and innards.
trev
Yeah 2 A would be too much for a regular USB port.
USB 1.x and 2.0 can handle up from 100 mA to 500 mA (0.1 A … 0.5 A), where as USB 3.0 can handle 150 mA … 900 mA (0.15 A … 0.9 A),… so 2 A would be too much.
A good USB charger for a modern smartphone or tablet could pull it off, depending on brand and model.
As for cooling; you could try and see if you can pop it open …?
Did you try to contact them concerning the firmware?
hans
Yes, I sent them an email this morning, but no response yet.
Yes, I carry a dual USB charger when I travel that would take care of power to the C-B. That would eliminate the need for their wall wart. The AverMedia LGP is a bit heavier than the C-B and basically does the same thing, but is powered thru a USB port. I can’t imagine the internals are much different.
Yes, I might be able to just pop the top. With the fan on it, I feel better about it.
trev
Yeah I suppose most of these devices use the same or similar chipsets.
The do probably use a different chip for talking HDMI (because of the HDCP stripping).
A fan would do the trick! I prefer passive cooling because of the noise, but a fan is always more effective.
My Elgato Game Capture HD is powered through the USB bus as well.
If I recall correctly; if your device tries to pull too much power from a USB, then simply nothing happens. Something with the circuitry of the USB bus of your computer protecting it from overloading. I’m thinking of all the times I’ve hooked up an external 3.5″ disk that pulled too much power haha …
hans
I have successfully used this to strip HDCP from Foxtel (recorded content on an iQ) and been able to record it.
ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D
Me Here
Thanks “Me Here”!
If anyone else has been using this splitter, then please post confirmations here as well … please
hans
Yes, I have 3 of the same model, 1 older than the other 2. The older one I have successfully been able to use between a Mac Mini HDMI to the ViewHD Splitter sending Output 1 to the LCD TV and Output 2 to the Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record from Heche Bee OH streaming. However, I have not been able to get this to work with an AppleTV.
Me Here – So Foxtel is Australian pay television service. So you are coming out an iQ cable box/DVR to the splitter. Nice! What are you using to do the record?
Trev
Thanks again Trev! The more confirmations we get, the better.
I have an (apparently) older version that does work. Maybe they are catching up …
hans
Good afternoon. I purchased the splitter below in hops that it would be able to bypass the HDCP in a Playstation TV device.
ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter
While using it (In collaboration with my elgato), it does not rip the HDCP from it. Using my other devices connected to it (A PS4 (With the HDCP Enabled option turned OFF) and a Wii U System) raised zero problems, and thus, I am able to record gameplay perfectly fine. My connections are perfectly fine, and nothing is damaged/broken. So either the splitter cannot strip the HDCP on a Playstation TV system, or my splitter is possibly faulty.
J W
Thanks J W for reporting this!
I’ve updated the article to reflect that this splitter might not work.
hans
Thank you for posting your results with the ViewHD Splitter. I too have had hit or miss results with this splitter as well.
Trev
Thanks Trev for confirming the hit and miss situation with this splitter.
hans
I have two HDMI splitters and a Hauppauge HD PVR 2 Gaming Edition. The splitters works fine without it plugged in to the capture device. However, I try plugging the output on the splitter into the input on the capture device, blank screen, yet detected.
My setup is the PS3 to the splitter to the capture device. I tried both of them with no luck. Can anyone help?
Ethan
Hi Ethan,
not all splitters strip the HDCP protection, other splitters require the primary output of the splitter to be connected to a legit device, for example your TV before the second HDMI output actually works.
If one of your splitters support HDCP stripping, then a PS3 should not cause any problems (according to this forum post).
I’d try PS3 -> Splitter -> TV (1st HDMI output). Once that works, plugin your Hauppauge in the 2nd HDMI output of the splitter, possibly while your PS3 and TV are running. So TV and capture device should be connected at the same time.
If this does not work for both splitters, then I’m afraid you have HDMI splitters that do not support HDCP stripping.
I found that newer splitters do not strip HDCP, the same goes for HDMI splitters that support HDMI 1.4 and newer.
Not sure if this is helpful, I hope it does.
p.s. some splitters prefer it that you connect everything before you power up the splitter.
hans
Hey Ethan,
Yes, it has been a hit or miss with 1×2 HDMI Splitters and especially as of late. Currently, the only success I have had at TRULY stripping HDCP has been when using the ViewHD HDMI 1×2 Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3d) receiving signal from a Mac Mini, Output 1 on the splitter going to a TV Output 2 going to an AverMedia Live Gamer Portable. I am able to record streaming movies from one of the paid subscriber services. Not having a PS3, I can not tell you if this Splitter would work for you. However, I have gone thru quite a few Splitters that just do not strip the HDCP. You can read in some of the previous posts what I have that has and has not worked.
Currently I am waiting on a record device that has said that it overcomes HDCP as well as an HDMI 4×2 matrix switch. As soon as I receive these items, get them set up and tested, I will be posting my findings here.
Trev
I saw that this item is not available anymore.I searched on ebay for the same thing, but the specs seems a bit off (the bandwith/operating frequency is different which make me worry about a fake one/different one with other chipset).This is the one linked in the article:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/251286040661This one is the one I found:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/XU-HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/321609008890
vincent
Hi Vicent,
Most splitters look very much alike, so it’s pretty much impossible to find the one that strips HDCP. Unless the list it as such or by … well, buying it and testing the splitter.
Even models that work today, might not work when you buy the same one tomorrow. Kind-a why we’re listing our experiences here.
For example, the one I bought works, but the newer versions no longer seem to strip HDCP.
As for the specs, well, I’m not sure these folks that list them, pay much attention to detail.
The only thing I looked for is that is should be a splitter supporting HDMI less than version 1.4.
hans
Hi need some help here.
I’m an artist that likes to take screenshots from movies and jazz them up for my own personal projects.
I have an Elgato60HD, but my PS3 doesn’t work with it. I also have an older Samsung Blu-Ray player but when I tried using it with the Elgato directly, I just got blank screen on my computer and TV due to HDCP.
Now I’ve read when you are able to bypass the PS3’s HDCP, it only outputs at 720p. With my blu-ray player, I want to max out at 1080p to get the best quality image from the movie for the screenshot (which I play around with in Photoshop later on).
Will purchasing one of these splitters help me use my Elgato60HD in conjunction with my blu-ray player as in :
Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder
And will it maintain the 1080p output from the blu-ray player?
I have a MacbookPro, and I theoretically could get an external blu-ray drive to watch movies on my Macbook and take screens from there, but since I already have an Elgato recorder, it may just be cheaper for me to get the Splitter instead of an External Blu-ray Drive.
Jeffrey
Happy New Year Jeffrey!
The Elgato60HD can do 1080p, so the setup you suggest should enable you to take screenshots in 1080p.
(Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder)
The trick seems to be that not every HDMI splitter strips HDCP, so it’s kind of a hit and miss at times.
I have listed a few models (mind the warnings) that have been reported to work/fail – this is not a guarantee those models work, since manufacturers update their devices to slightly “improved” specs. Also read the comments here, and with listed splitters, to exclude the ones that have fail for others.
If you buy one, then definitely look for confirmation in the item description if the seller claims HDCP stripping, or contact the seller to ask for confirmation.
Besides Amazon, AliExpress seems a good resource as well – again; double check with the seller(s). The ones at AliExpress seem a lot cheaper ($11 with free shipping!), but the listed splitters have incomplete and conflicting information (for example: it lists as HDMI 1.4, but in the details it says 1.3b).
Oh and if you found one there; please post the link here so others can use the link as well.
hans
Hey Han, thanks for the response.
I found this one
SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8
Reading the most recent customer reviews (less than 3 months), it appears customers are getting some success like the ViewHD Splitter.
Although the seller doesn’t put the claim it strips HDCP, it does say HDMI 1.3, not 1.4
Again if you read the customer reviews, it looks like many are getting success, some aren’t. But I’m wondering if that’s customer malfunction more than item.
Jeffrey
@Jeffrey looks very much like the one I got from eBay that works but didnt label it as HDCP stripping and they didn’t know.
dominick_7
Reading the comments, I’d say this could be a winner … it looks like a spitting image of the one I have.
When looking at the most recent reviews, from November 2015, I’d guess this one might work.
If you decide to get one, please post your experiences here, so I can add it to the list if it does work.
In the meanwhile, I’m still waiting for a response from the AliExpress seller …
hans
Ok so I can officially confirm for you and anyone else interested that while I’m having difficulty getting the HDFury Integral to work fully because it
requires a firmware and hacked file from them to fully function I guess
due to how companies have come down on them to block their product from
being used, this splitter http://www.ebay.com/itm/171569398368 does indeed strip HDCP like a champ.
dominick_7
Hey Dominick_7!
That’s great news and thank you for posting. If you don’t mind me asking, in what capacity are you using this splitter? Recording a gaming console, recording Bluray, recording streaming media? If any of these, what apps and devices are you using? The extra info will help in determining just what this splitter will do. I have some that partially strip the HDCP (meaning I can get it to work with some devices but not others) and some that do not strip HDCP at all. Thank you!
trev
Hi Trev,…
just chiming in …
I use it for Game Recording (no HDCP stripping needed on a XBox One/360), screenshots (from my laptop) and … for my next Ambient Light project where screens are analyzed to control ambient LEDs behind my TV, so it will work all the time.
For this I use an Elgato HD game capture, with the software that came with the Elgato.
For my upcoming (if it works) project: Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and 300 LEDs.
I did test the HDCP stripping with an Amazon Fire TV (streaming Amazon video, and Netflix video), a Roku box, movie playback on an XBox One (BluRay and streaming) and and XBox 360 (DVD and NetFlix streaming), and it worked in all cases.
The splitter I used however, has been reported to fail with the newer production “batches”.
Please note though that my purpose for the splitter is not to record movies, but it works!
hans
I ordered the splitter on ebay linked to here http://www.ebay/itm/171569398368 Now I’ve read that recent batches don’t strip HDCP. Is that correct for this device? If it is, I may b able to cancel my ebay purchase if I get an answer before it ships.
Brian
That’s interesting.
I’ve asked that seller and many other sellers if their splitter removes HDCP, and only 1 out of the 7 I sent question to (like this past weekend) have answered.
Unusual since eBay sellers generally answer back in a day. Guess none of these (I only really asked sellers located in America) sellers are going to say it for fear of getting cracked down on.
Jeffrey
@Trev I’m using it to record in 1080p60 from my Comcast HD DVR through my Hauppauge HD PVR 60. Hope to get the X1 DVRs hopefully that will give higher res video than 1080i. So it’s
Comcast HD PVR->HDFury Integral to strip HDCP->Hauppauge HD PVR 60->HP Envy 17t. If I get a Blu Ray that does Netflix or the Xbox One I figure I’ll be able to record in 4K in the future. The Integral does all the way up to 4K splitting. Think this should strip everything. Just need to make sure you flash the firmware with the hacked file and change one setting on one of the buttons and it should work.
dominick_7
@Jeffrey the other stripper I bought from eBay it works with Comcast HD DVR and the HDTV and my set up I posted. Can’t say if it will strip everything. I’d guess not, like I dont think it can do 4K.
dominick_7
@Jeffrey Hmm. Some took days to get back to me, the one I bought it from didn’t know the other that did reply wasn’t in the US but confirmed theirs does do HDCP stripping.
dominick_7
@Dominick_7 Thank you for posting your posting the extra info! It truly helps knowing just exactly how others are achieving the HDCP override.
trev
@Trev no problem, glad if it helps. Man this response system is confusing..
dominick_7
@Bryan I hear you, true.
Not sure. The only recommended one I saw was the Integral_046022 and saw others complaining why the others didnt get a hack.
Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?
@Bill the tech said “Move EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, you should be fine then” and it worked.
dominick_7
PS I just got the HD Fury working and it looks awesome, noticeably better picture quality than the other splitter. The other looks a bit washed out by comparison, but still workable/nice.
dominick_7
Awesome!
hans
Which HD Fury model did you get?
Brian
@Brian I got the Integral for $179 after doing the twitter and facebook share codes. Had to download the silabs driver v4, connect it to the notebook and flash firmware with an added hack for one of the bin files. I then connected it up to the Comc4ast DVR via the Hauppauge HD PVR 60, switched the EDID button to fixed and it all works awesomely.
@Hans so it seems, so far :)
dominick_7
Thanks for you answer to my question, here’s another one.
How did you get discount codes?
Brian
I just ordered an HDFury, the 4K one: Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz. I paid $170 US with the three discounts applied. I hope Warner Brothers and Intel don’t succeed in stopping their sale before mine is shipped.
Brian
@Brian No problem, you’re welcome. Oh you just add it to the cart and the options come up on the bottom left. You should be able to see it unless maybe you have some script blocker on or something. You just click share for both facebook and twitter and the codes will pop up. Their warranty and return policy seems pretty nice too. The Integral is a bit pricey but it pays for itself after like 2-3 seasons of tv series you’re not supposed to record and won’t of course ;) Unless you have a TIVO and can do the same thing which makes no sense but yea.. haha.
dominick_7
@Brian Sweet! What was the third code?? I heard they shut them down in so many ways. Are they/can they make them close down even if they’re in another country? Think they’re based in China.
dominick_7
Not sure if it’s the same for everyones set up but you need the Silabs driver, the 046022 firmware from the product page and need to get the hack from the forum there: direct link from the tech I talked to because I had problems following the Chinese fonts: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1pJ1o64V and click the GREY download icon where its written 27KB. Install the drivers, connect the Integral to your computer and flash both firmware exes, power cycling after each one and it should work if there was no sound or a static noise before that. I think that’s the only firmware that has a hack to bypass the HDCP nonsense.
dominick_7
The discounts were for sharing/tweeting with Google+, Twitter, and Facebook. They may have added a 3rd discount after you ordered.
If you can, would you please upload the files necessary to modify the HD Fury and make them available. A free file storing service with download may be appropriate.
Brian
Just ordered the HD Fury Integral! Thank you for the heads up on its workings. I’ve tried downloading the Firmware 0.46.0.22 but their website keeps sending me back to the latest update. I’ve downloaded the “other” file. Can anyone post a direct link to the Firmware 0.46.0.22 update or upload the file to a free storage site? Many Thanks!!
trev
New link for the HDFury files you need: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0.
dominick_7
@Bryan ahh yea they added Google + after I ordered k.
@Trev Sweet. K np here are the files you need the Silab driver, the firmware, the hack for the firmware and the manual. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cqwqwl8tjeyns9d/AAAPNAzUukjCXTEbTaDtGo27a?dl=0. Let me know what you guys think of the Integral and how it works.. Oh you need to switch the EDID button to the bottom set position then power cycle it after you flash both firmwares.
dominick_7
@DOMINICK_7 AWESOME!!! Thank you for putting that up! Yes this reply system gets a little confusing after it gets beyond a few replies, but Hans has done a great job keeping info up to date. And thanks to everyone that is posting their findings!! Keep up the great work!
trev
Hi Dominick_7,
Even with the reduction, it costs $250 CDN plus whatever duty and taxes are levied. An expensive device but there’s nothing else like it.
Thanks for making the essential files available for the HD Fury.
Brian
@Trev Yvw :) Haha.sure is. True, ty everyone.
@Brian $250 CDN..? Dang, sorry to hear that. I guess that’s what you get for living in Canada? Wasn’t aware of it being that different in terms of currency. Definitely. Yw glad if it helps. Whoever might be interested in HDCP stripping you may seriously want to consider getting the Integral while its still available. The powers that be have been trying to shut them down.
dominick_7
Living in Canada has a currency value downside now but there are upsides too but even those are being devalued.
Yes, anyone who wants to strip HDCP better buy the device now, at least in the USA, because there could be an injunction barring US sales.
Brian
There are newer versions of the firmware for the HD Fury Integral (Firmware 0.51.0.27 which is UpdateFpga_v27 and UpdateMCU_v51).
Is the older firmware (Firmware 0.46.0.22 which is UpdateFpga_v22 and UpdateMCU_v46) the only one which can be used to strip out HDCP or can it be done with the newest version?
Brian
Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?
bill
FYI: I have just sent an email to one of the sellers at AliExpress … I’ll post their reply once I hear from them. I’m sure others will be interested as well.
And in case you wanted to know: I use my HDMI splitter/HDCP stripper for screenshot as well.
hans
Nothing back yet?
I stopped my Amazon Prime membership, so if I buy the Sanoxy it may take a week to get it and test it out.
Jeffrey
Nothing yet … and honestly, I don’t expect anything by now. Not sure why it takes that long to reply to a message … but it tells me a lot about the seller. Can’t trust that one, or at least expect slow communication when issues arise.
Maybe I’ll order one or the other from AliExpress when I get back home, see if there is a deal to be made …
hans
I went ahead and ordered the Sanoxy on Tuesday.
Tracking says I’ll receive Monday, but I’ve been surprised before and gotten it a few days earlier.
I’ll let you know how my setup goes with:
Comcast DVR > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
Blu Ray Player >HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
PS3 > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV
Jeffrey
Hey Hans,
Making a new comment separately so someone can see this. As I anticipated, the Sanoxy Splitter came today instead of Monday.
Give me a few hours to try it and I’ll let you know how it goes!
Jeffrey
First attempt, I can report the SANOXY splitter has indeed worked.
First configuration:
2008 Samsung Blu-Ray Player Output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter Input >>>SANOXY Output 1 >>> Elgato60 HD to MacBook Pro + HDTV
Success, Output 2 not used.
I will go try my Comcast DVR (it’s an older one from ’09 or ’10 I believe) next.
Jeffrey
Second Attempt, SANOXY Splitter has indeed worked with my Comcast DVR.
Comcast DVR HDMI Output >> SANOXY Splitter >> Splitter Output 1 >> Elgato60HD >> MacBook Pro
Quality looks amazing on my laptop as well.
I forgot I let my brother borrow my PS3, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
So Hans you can update your article now to include the SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray.
Works 100% for me. Very satisfied!
Jeffrey
Thanks for the information Jeffrey. Two questions: Does your unit look like the first picture in the Amazon display which has the blue and white lettering or the one with only the white lettering in the second and other pictures? Also, which vendor did you order from as there are more than a few listed on Amazon? Thanks again!
Jerome
Thanks Jeffrey!
Awesome that you’ve found another splitter! I’ve updated the article!
hans
I don’t know if the following will be of help regarding the HDCP issues, but here is my recent experience with a splitter which looks similar to others mentioned in various posts.
Although I’m not sure what Jeffrey’s splitter looks like, the one that I ordered recently on ebay looks like the first picture on Amazon’s description for the Sanoxy model with the blue and white print as opposed to the other pictures with the white lettering only. Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181785675612 for the one that I ordered. While the description says HDMI 1.3, the box and directions say 1.4 but for my problem it works. I cannot say for sure if it removes HDCP as I do not have a Playstation or capture card or similar devices which are mentioned in many articles on various sites. I also do not have a DVR but rather a Panasonic DVD Recorder.
I have DirecTV and some time last year, a change was made which caused this message to appear: “Your TV does not support this program’s content protection. Replacing
the TV’s HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the
program.” This is only when you have both the HDMI and component cable connection (AV Out) utilized at the same time. The message only appears on the component output not the HDMI. My component output goes into an Atlona Comp500 converter which outputs an S-Video signal for the Panasonic DVD recorder. The HDMI goes into a Sony TV about six years old. Regular SD channels are not affected, only HD. I had read somewhere that using a splitter might work for this problem and it did. I took the DirecTV HDMI output into the splitter input, the DirecTV component output into the Atlona, then the HDMI 1 output into the television and the error message was gone when viewing from the Panasonic DVD recorder. Switching channels while watching directly from the television or through the DVD recorder did not make a difference. I have my DirecTV resolution set as native so that the picture is shown in its regular format as opposed to an upscaled one. There is a slight delay here sometimes and others have mentioned that this could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. I did power on the splitter first before turning on the television and satellite box. The HDMI 2 output was not used.
I also tried using the splitter with the same hookup above but also utilizing the HDMI 2 output with an Insignia television about four years old to see if the signal would appear on all three outputs and it did. No error messages appeared. Picture quality through the HDMI splitter looked fine with no apparent difference as compared to a direct connection. Of course, the output from the Atlona box is SD converted from an HD component signal but I use it to record from time to time and for my purposes, it is adequate. The recorder works better when recording from HD or SD broadcast (over the air) stations since it does its own conversion and has its own tuner so the picture looks sharper and more accurate than the Atlona which is a bit softer and tends to increase colors a bit. S-Video is the best connection for the DVD recorder as the composite one looks a tad softer if used.
Hope this helps someone with a similar situation.
Jerome
So last week after reading some of the posts about the HD Fury Integral, I started hunted one down. They appear to be removed from Amazon now. Found one on Craigslist for $300 in San Francisco. Went to the HD Fury website and they had them listed as IN STOCK, so I placed the order on Jan 6th. My Paypal account has been processed the $179 but I have received no shipping info. Tried contacting them but no word yet. Hoping I’m not out $179.
If you are at all thinking about buying one, be careful at this point in time!
trev
If Paypal purchased shouldn’t there be a full refund if it isn’t delivered?
Brian
I would like to think so, but I’m thinking I’d really like to have the Integral instead.
trev
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw-ezjGag9w
this recorder audio 5.1 ????
ahmed
Hi Ahmed,
as far as I understand from Trev: Currently the Cloner does not recorder 5.1 audio, and records it in stereo (Trev? Am I saying that right?).
A future firmware update might address this issue, but that probably has to be addressed with the manufacturer so they would actually release a proper firmware to support 5.1.
hans
thank you very good
I bought the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter with HDPVR2(1215)
and working very good and recorder audio 5.1 . Here is a sample of the Date
https://youtu.be/ukTr_iWqcuw
ahmed
Awesome! Is the splitter this ViewPort model?
hans
yes this model
ahmed
hans
@Ahmed, No this recorder does NOT record in 5.1, only stereo audio. But for my needs, that wasn’t necessary. It is a great recorder and I just ordered another one last night. The Cloner Alliance responded to my inquiry about 5.1 any upcoming firmware updates and gave no indication that it would be happening. Still, as a stand-alone recording device this one is by far the best that I have used. I have NOT needed any splitter to be able to record the HDMI signal from my AppleTV. Hope this helps.
trev
Hi..
I was given an HDML Cloner Box Pro for Christmas…I’ve attempted to record various projects..it DOES record from any source…HOWEVER..
While it does record..and it says that it’s recording in 1080p….it’s actually recording only in (less than standard) 420p..
I’ve tried various methods..while the box INDICATES that it IS recording in 1080p.. in reality, it only records in 420p.
How do I know this?
First, from viewing the recorded file.. yeah.. that’s NOT high definition at all.
Secondly, watch the file on the MEDIA PLAYER CLASSIC video software on your computer.. while the file is playing..press “PLAY”..then scroll down the menu there..then press “VIDEO STREAM”.
I recorded an episode of GAME OF THRONES …the video looks great; in full 1080p, high definition, WHILE I’m recording it directly from HBO On Demand…
HOWEVER.. the video stream indicated this = “video handler [Eng] H264 constrained baseline L4.0 yuv 420p, 1920 x 1080 15854 kb/s (english) ”
Do you see that “yuv 420P”.. yup.. it SHOULD be recording in 1080p..but it isn’t.
I dunno what I’m doing wrong….but I can’t get it to record in any higher format than 420p..very soft focus and blurry.
I’ve written to Cloner-Alliance about this problem..hopefully; they will have an answer.
Ron Grimm
Thanks Ron for the heads up!
I have no experience with the HDMI Cloner Box – could it be related to the media you’re using to store the recording on? (ie. a slow USB stick or memory card). Trev however (see his comments here) has been playing with one of those – maybe he can comment on this and help you in the right direction?
hans
Hello Ron!
That is odd and you should contact HDMI ClonerBox about it. More than likely they will swap it out. I’ve had issue with one of the 3 that I have, where it just stopped recording no matter what i did, and they sent me a new one. I just finished a recording, opened it in both Quicktime and VLC. Here are links showing the item properties from both apps:
Quicktime – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joVTUxODVUWFhMQjA
VLC – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joSi1tcmljREN2Nkk
I’ve never been able to choose any other settings than 720p and 1080p on the HDMI ClonerBox, so hopefully swapping out for another box will solve your issue.
Trev
Thanks Trev for chiming in – it’s much appreciated!
hans
I bought the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D – $24 at Amazon and received it today (1/12/2016) It does NOT bypass the HDCP! I still have the same problem.
Bob
Hi Bob!
Thank you for reporting this ….
First off, we already listed the ViewHD quite a while ago as “confirmed, but recent models fail!!!”.
Having said that … in the Dutch version of this article a user observed that using different HDMI cables might resolve the issue. In his case he used a shorter HDMI cable, but I’m starting to wonder if it has to do with the quality and certification (HDMI version) of the cable(s) used.
Another observation is that all HDMI cables should be connected before powering the HDMI splitter.
And finally, what might help as well, is having a HDCP compliant device on the first HDMI output of the splitter (for example your TV).
Please let us know if any of these 3 (or all of them) resolve the issue, I’ll be keeping y fingers crossed.
hans
I’ve had a similar experience with the View HD 2 port for the Xfinity X1 cable box. Does anyone know what will strip HDCP from X1? Thanks.
Charles
Funny thing is that I just moved and am stuck with Xfinity as my cable provider.
I just needed Internet but it came with free basic channels for TV as well.
The guy from Comcast delivered a “new” box (not the X1) which didn’t even have HDMI. When looking at the bottom of the box it said “Manufactured May 2009” … 2009!!!! So I asked him for a HDMI box, which he could deliver (the X1) for $69.99/mo … so I told him to go put the X1 where the sun doesn’t shine … grrr….
So bottom line; I can’t test my splitter with the X1, unless someone knows a neat trick to get an X1 without paying $69.99/mo.
hans
Hans, are you meaning to say that you had no choice with the package from your provider, or the bundling of services? I find that bizarre. It is contrary to proper business practices when trying to serve the customer’s needs. (Of course greed often trumps customer needs.)
I have never heard of that. There is always a basic package in any service category. Well, at least here in the USA.
Is there a monopoly where you are? Does the government allow monopolies?
Michael
Hi Michael,
I’m actually in the US … Houston.
I could choose plenty $$$ packages, but I don’t really need TV, just the basic channels would be sufficient – which comes with my Internet at no extra charge. What baffled me is that they assumed I’d have a TV with a build in tuner (which I do not). Everything is connected through HDMI these days, but their box forces me to use either coax or composite (not component or HDMI). Not to mention that the box is ancient (2009) and only shows video in 4:3 format (horrible on a modern TV).
I’m already looking into other options – I’m definitely not going to recommend ComCast to anyone … their Internet is fine though, even though they limit your download to 1Tb/mo (which is probably enough) – let’s see what NetFlix and Amazon chew away on a monthly basis …
hans
I have a question specific on my setup and appreciate any help. I was given a Gateway 42″ Plasma (Model # P42M203). It unfortunately, only has a DVI-D input which is NOT HDCP compliant (no HDMI). I am trying to connect a Roku to this TV but am getting a flickering screen when using the Sanoxy splitter listed above. My setup is as follows:
Roku 3 HDMI output >> SANOXY Splitter (found here)>>> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: black flickering screen
Roku 3 HDMI output >> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: Menu loads fine, streamed content displays HDCP error.
Does anyone know an appropriate way to go from HDMI to a “non-HDCP” DVI-D port? I plan to run audio separately using the 3.5mm output on the remote. I’m not trying to record content, etc. I just want to use this display in a workshop and don’t want to buy another TV.
Much appreciated!!
Greg Kneeland
Hi Greg,
now this is exactly one of those applications why I posted this article!
First thing I’d try is switching your Roku to 720p (if possible), and test it with a regular HDMI capable TV if you have access to one. Or even better, a HDMI game recording device, just to test is HDCP is indeed removed.
Second thing I’d try is different HDMI cables. In the Dutch version of this article, one user discovered that one of his HDMI cables failed, where as an other one (not sure if that;s relevant, but it was a shorted HDMI cable) worked just fine.
These would be my first 2 steps … of course not having a HDMI recording device to test makes it pretty hard to test.
hans
Thanks for the advice. I switched the Roku to 720p (which I totally didn’t even think about) and tested it on a newer plasma w/HDMI. It worked as it should. Then I took it back out to the Gateway plasma and it did work, but with a really choppy picture and the sound had constant static on both menu screen and when streaming Netflix. I tried multiple HDMI cables between the Roku and splitter. I also tried multiple HDMI to DVI cables between the splitter and TV and the result was the same. My initial thought on the root of the problem are:
1) The splitter is faulty – I then tried the splitter on a couple other TV’s and it worked normally via HDMI to HDMI input.
2) You cannot run an HDMI to DVI cable from the spiltter
I do know the DVI input does work on the TV as I have been successful in getting a computer working on it normally.
Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?
I am stumped!
Greg
“Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?”
Sorry, I meant: “Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP DVI?”
Greg
Hey there so with the Dvi to hdmi the cable ur where using I had a similar problem I had a cable vga to component and it work from the computers vga port to a regular tv component but then I plugged the vga into a monitor and tryed to plug my PS3 into the vga adapter into a monitor but no luck I believe it is cause the computer powers and drives the adapter where when I tryed the adapter and the PS3 into a monitor no luck I will see if I can find u one that might work hopefully I am hoping i did not confuse you if I did message me and I will see if I can explain it better
Zach
You might be right about the HDMI->DVI “conversion”, not to mention the difference between DVI-I and DVI-D … I suspect that most “converters” actually only do HDMI->DVI-D (ie. only digital signal). I’m not sure if you TV takes DVI-D … or just the analog signal …?
hans
I believe something like this will work and support 1080p and it is a powered unit which will actually convert the signal not just wire one plug to another cause one signal is digital and one is analog so this adapter it should convert the signal from digital to analog to the dvi port on your tv but look into this one hopefully what I said makes sense here’s the link
http://m.ebay.ca/itm/271888278622
Zach
Zach/Hans,
Well I figured it out!! Luckily I had initially purchased an HDMI to DVI converter (not the HDMI to DVI cable) when I first got the TV. I had to run the setup listed here:
Roku>>HDMI splitter (to strip HDCP)>>HDMI to DVI converter>> Gateway TV.
I don’t think I would have figured it out if I didn’t get help here. Thanks guys we are up and running!!
Greg
Awesome!
hans
Glad to hear anytime have fun with it:p
Zach
If you don’t mind me asking is the converter the one you have plug into the wall to power it kind of like the one I linked just curious :) thanks
Zach
Thanks again for the help. I used the set up listed below:
Roku 3 HDMI output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter(HDCP Stripper) Input (Found here)>>>SANOXY HDMI Output 1 >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter HDMI input (Found here) >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter DVI output >>>Gateway TV DVI input
The only issue I found with the Revesun HDMI to DVI converter is that it is supposed to convert digital audio to analog. The analog audio outputs on the unit supply NO sound in my scenario. The Roku 3 remote has a 3.5mm audio output, so I just hook that to my stereo receiver instead. I am not sure if running the HDCP stripper outputs a signal that cannot have audio/video separated but I will run some tests. I’m also going to see if I can’t have another unit sent out and hopefully it will correct the problem.
Greg
Hey everyone I bought the veiwhd this is the link ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | VHD-1X2MN3D
I received it I tested it on my ps4 but before anyone says anything I turned the hdcp ON my ps4 and recorded Netflix which you can not do with hdcp OFF. I use the Algato hd60 to record and I have tested the hd60 without the veiwhd hooked up to the ps4 and hdcp ON and the hd60 recording software says it can’t record cause hdcp is ON but when I plug the veiwhd in and try it work perfectly strips the hdcp I will keep this update if I try on different devices feel free to ask question. So in my case the veiwhd works and strips the hdcp
Zach
Hi Zach!
Thanks for posting your findings. I had the same experience with the ViewHD/Elgato.
For those where the ViewHD fails:
In a post at the Dutch version of the article, one of the users actually noticed that this seems to depend on the HDMI cables used. In my case it worked right away, but in his case it did not. When he swapped his HDMI cable for different ones, it suddenly worked. He was guessing it had to do with cable length, but I suspect it has to do with the quality or HDMI version the cable was made for. So it’s worth trying different HDMI cables (between video source and splitter).
hans
Ya I agree it could be the cable but I will admit that one of the cables I am using in my setup is a 3ft HDMI that I bought at dollarama which is a dollar store in Ottawa Canada so for anyone that is looking for a cable to use with this setup it should work and the best part it only cost 3.50$ but it is just really short but I do believe it could do with the version of Hdmi that is why I believe the dollar store one works because it works with older versions but I could be totally wrong just letting u guys know my experience and question feel free to ask and thanks Hans I never though it could be the HDMI cable but now that u mention it I can see that happening
Zach
I just updated your link, for some reason Amazon gave me an error message when I tried opening the link you originally posted.
hans
Thanks very much sorry for that
Zach
No problem
…. I just wanted to double check if it was the same ViewHD I have … 
hans
Today, I received the Integral 4K60/600MHz HDMI device. The packaging was a bit worse-for-wear but the device is ok, no dents, scratches, etc. It didn’t take long to be delivered. It cost me $250 CDN for the Integral and $22 CDN duty/taxes/handling/collection charges.
Is there anything necessary to do to the Integral to strip out HDCP with it such as: //www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/#comment-164225
Brian
Hi Brian,
by my knowledge, this would be HDMI 1.4, and I have not seen HDMI splitters that support this AND strip HDCP … unless you’re having a 1080p source, which still might work.
hans
@Brian You need the hacked firmware files I posted below plus the directions I posted with them. I had to repost the dropbox link because I reorganized them in a different folder.
dominick_7
I received an Integral HD Fury a few days ago and have just got around to using it. I “updated” the firmware files and that supposedly was successful but I haven’t been able to get it to work with my DVI input monitor. The setup is: Laptop HDMI output –> Integral HD Fury –> HDMI cable with HDMI to DVI converter –> Computer monitor DVI input. I ran the Integral GUI on my computer but I am unable to determine what the settings should be to enable the DVI input computer monitor to work. Does anyone know how?
Brian
Hey Brian – From all that I have read about the Integral, I think you are going to have to instal the hacked firmware 046022, which is a few versions back from the current firmware that it sounds like you have installed. Someone else posted the files in one of the other replies, so look thru them. Due to carrier issues, mine has not arrived yet so I can not help much, but I think you are still dealing with an HDCP issue thru the DVI, therefore installing the hacked software your issue should be fixed. Someone else may have a better idea, but I hope this helps.
trev
I installed the hacked firmware 046022, twice, just to be certain that it “took”. I ran the Integral GUI software and it appears to recognize the Integral HD Fury but it doesn’t show the firmware version number.
Does anyone know why? I hope I didn’t get a lemon.
Brian
I reinstalled the latest firmware which INTEGRAL GUI v1.8 works with. I reinstalled the hacked firmware and the INTEGRAL GUI v1.6 works with it showing the firmware version 0.46.0.22 and the source info Sony, 1920x1080p60 HDMI; Output: none; Color Space: YCbCr 4:4:4, ITU-R BT.709
Still nothing appearing on the DVI input computer display.
Brian
You need the hacked firmware: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0
Then you need to switch the EDID button to to fixed and restart the source by unplugging the USB power source and replugging it in.
dominick_7
@Brian you’ll need the firmware files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0 then you’ll need to move the EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, it should work then. If that doesn’t work then tech support should be able to help you. Took me a while to reply because I got locked out somehow.
dominick_7
UPDATE: HD Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance.
After having the HD C-B hooked directly up to my AppleTV, AppleTV to the HDMI input on the TV, to record Netflix streaming, I decided it was time to hook things back up thru my Onky Receiver (AppleTV to HDMI 1 input on Onkyo Receiver, Blu-Ray to HDMI 2 input on the Onkyo. Onkyo output 1 into C-B, C-B out to TV). No matter what I did in this set up, I could not get the C-B to record nor pass a solid signal thru to the TV. I then tried out how I had originally had success in recording on the Blackmagic H264 recorder (Onkyo HDMI output 1 to the TV, HDMI output 2 to the C-B). I also hooked up the output of the C-B into the 2nd HDMI input on the TV. As I write this, I am in the process of recording a BluRay to the C-B. All seems to be working fine and I will try the AppleTV thru this setup next.
So yes, this is a great little standalone recorder that does overcome HDCP in 99% of the configurations I have tried.
trev
Thanks Trev for getting back with this info … although I’m a little confused haha …
So the Onkyo seems to be functioning as a stripper as well? Just only when a valid HDCP device is connected to HDMI out 1 …?
(sorrry it’s late here haha)
hans
Hello to all,
I’m actually looking at some conversion for an Intel Compute Stick that I would like to use as a mediacenter in my car.
The fact is I bought the (in)famous HDMI2AV adapter from eBay, but when I try it on my TV, nothing shows on screen (I tried different resolution but nothing helps).
So basically, I think about the fact that this HDMI2AV adapter is not compliant with HDCP (I get a black screen anyway with any resolution).
If someone knows/can tell me how to achieve this, it would be very nice.
Thanks.
SimKard
Hi SimKard,
First thing I’d try is using the HDMI output of another device, for example a laptop (just displaying the desktop of Windows for example) or a media player box (like tha Amazon Fire TV without playing any content). Just to make sure the HDMI2AV works … that’s definitely the first thing I’d test.
I would not think the HDMI output of your Intel Compute Stick had HDCP, unless you’re playing particular content like NetFlix etc.
According to this forum thread, the stick might experience HDMI detection/handshake issue as well. Not sure if that’s the case in your situation.
If HDCP proves to be an issue, well, then you’re stuck with one or the other HDCP stripper, like some of the HDMI splitters mentioned in this article. Is a hit and miss at times to see if one of these splitters will work though. The “good” news is that these strippers are relatively small, roughly the size of a package of cigarettes, and you should be able to power it in the car (see this comment above).
Before buying one, make sure the HDMI2Av actually works, and read the posts here to see the findings of others.
I wouldn’t mind testing one of these sticks, but unfortunately, I do not have one …
hans
Also how does Google get around with violating the DMCA with its Chromecast audio devices with analog outputs?
I just want to use a Chromecast 1 device on my tv. And roku is OK but the YouTube roku app is so unreliable.
Justin Goldberg
Here’s a conversion with an ebay seller about the white hdmi2av:
Me:
Does this decrypt HDCP 1.x content? I purchased a standalone cable with HDMI in and component with rca audio out, which does not with a Chromecast.
Seller:
I don’t believe it decrypts HDCP. It just converts HDMI to RCA. We have noticed issues recently with this product working with newer HDMI devices though.
Justin Goldberg
Hi Justin,
I think that most sellers (on western world marketplaces) will not easily state or admit that their hardware removes HDCP.
A lot of HDMI->RCA converters however, do not strip HDCP – which is unfortunate for situation you’re looking at. This is actually the same situation I started out with as well. I needed HDMI -> RCA and none of these converters work when HDCP is involved, which is unfortunate.
Since I started out with a project to create Ambilight for all my video sources, I needed a HDMI splitter anyway (to catch all the video that goes from my Home Theatre system to my TV). That’s when I found out that certain cheap HDMI splitters actually strip HDCP.
So the setup will become:
video source -> HDMI Splitter -> TV
And the second output of the HDMI Splitter -> HDMI-to-RCA converter -> analog video grabber -> AmbiLight device
As for your ChromeCast question; I’m not sure what you mean with the analog Audio question.
I’d assume that connecting a ChromeCast to the HDMI-splitter, and one output of the HDMI splitter to any HDMI->RCA device would work.
hans
This will be of interest. Use the bin file here with firmware version 0.51.0.27 to “solve” HDCP problems. http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin
I used it with the following settings to enable an non-compliant computer monitor to display HDCP content from my laptop.
edid automix mode
audio auto [bt]
hdcp 1.4
Post your results please.
Brian
@Bryan you try it?
dominick_7
I tried it and it worked to enable viewing HDCP protected content on a computer monitor which wouldn’t show it previously.
Brian
Sweet so I guess I’ll add that the next time I update the firmware. Thanks.
dominick_7
You can update the firmware now. I know the new .bin file ‘fixes’ the HDCP problem because the computer monitor doesn’t comply with HDCP and won’t display an HDCP protected HDMI signal. The new firmware has features and fixes that previous versions don’t have and you can always revert back to the firmware you are now using. Trust me, it works.
Brian
Also, I don’t know how long the new .bin file will be available, so download it now.
Brian
Maybe this is helpful, or not, but I downloaded the bin file and made it available here for download.
It’s Integral HD Fury firmware version 0.51.0.27 from this link http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin.
It’s only 30 Kb in size so I have no idea if this is correct (please confirm).
The link for download from Tweaking4All is: INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin.zip
If anyone could provide the full specs (ie. Device info and/or missing files) then I’d be more than happy to post them here as well …
Feel free to let me know if this is not the right file, or if anything else is missing, since I do not own the Integral HD Fury.
hans
@Brian definitely downloaded it as soon as you mentioned it, will use it for the updated firmware when I get a chance ty. Makes me curious to know what sort of changes were made as far as menu options.
dominick_7
Install the firmware and you’ll see the changes.
Brian
@Hans do I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware? Also is that the best one currently? Thanks.
Dominick
dominick_7
As far as I understand, from Brian (please correct me if I’m wrong), the posted firmware is the one you need – I don’t think you need to “hack” it. Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral to confirm this …
hans
Have the Vertex so cannot say for sure, but this sounds like it’s not stripping hdcp completely and simply changing hdcp 2.2 to hdcp 1.4. I hope that the hacked firmware completely removes hdcp and that someone will post it for the Vertex too!
Adam
@Hans wanted to add that I got a Tivo through my Integral, to Hauppauge HD PVR 60 then to my HP Envy 17t but it isnt displaying right. Want to rule out the Integral hence the question about if I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware file. Thanks.
dominick_7
Hi Dominick_7!
Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral. I just made the file from Brian available directly from Tweaking4All.
Maybe Brian is the better person to answer this question … or one of the other Integral users?
hans
I just wanted to comment. Thanks to this website I bought the SANOXY HDMI 1by2 3D Splitter v1.3 HDCP 2ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 DVD BluRay. There is a link to it on this website. It is the top entry of the bullet list of possible hdcp strippers. This list is a little ways above the comment section.
I have an old Sony HDTV with one HDMI input. I can’t watch any premium DISH TV programs because of the hdcp error screen. With my tv if you navigate into the menu you can eventually get to a page that has a field named: HDCP. On my tv it always says HDCP:No . I just hooked up the Sanoxy hdmi splitter and now the field says HDCP:YES . My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stipper.
I bought another hdmi splitter off of ebay and I should get it next week. In the title of the listing it says that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed the seller and asked him if it was a hdcp stripper. He emailed me back and said it can strip hdcp. If it works I’ll post it here in the comment section.
Thanks,
Tim
Tim
Thanks Tim for reporting!
I had no idea that a TV could report this … Did you mean when the splitter is used it says “HDCP: NO”, versus when the splitter is not used where it says “HDCP: YES”?
The link Tim is talking about: Sanoxy HDMI at Amazon.
hans
Hans,
In yesterdays comment I mistakenly said that I navigated into my Sony TV menu to a page with a field labeled HDCP: NO or HDCP: Yes. It was actually my DISH TV menu I went into. For those of you with DISH TV here is the path: menu – system setup – installation – system info – next. The page is titled System Info Two . Evidently, HDCP:No means you can’t watch hdcp protected programming and HDCP:Yes means you can.
The HDCP field of my DISH TV System Info Two page has always said HDCP:No. I can’t watch premium DISH programing because of the hdcp error screen.
Yesterday, when I hooked up my new Sanoxy HDMI splitter the field switched to HDCP:Yes.
About a week and a half ago DISH offered me free Epix for a month. It wouldn’t work because of the hdcp error screen. Today I called DISH and resubscribed to Epix. It works perfectly with the Sanoxy HDMI splitter. The HDCP field of the DISH TV System Info Two page says: HDCP:Yes. My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stripper.
Tim
Thanks Tim for the clarification – I was a little confused the other day haha.
Awesome, yet another valid reason to get a HDCP stripper … isn’t it idiotic that companies will “push” the consumer to buy new electronics just because they decided to add some new? Oh well, I’m very glad to hear this worked for you! Awesome!
hans
I’m using HDfury devices never had any problem since many years now. They are expensive, but work perfectly well and picture quality is outstanding.
Chris
this one Portta 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b Compatible c1.4 3D 1080p Swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-Ray and this one ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto work ! and Sewell Direct SW-23500 HDMI Splitter fail !
summerboy
Awesome – Thanks SummerBoy for sharing your findings!
Do you happen to have links to these HDMI splitters?
hans
Just a follow up. Last week I commented on the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter . It works! I’m able to watch Epix which I purchased from Dish TV. Without the hdmi splitter I get the hdcp error screen.
I also commented that I bought another hdmi splitter from an ebay seller. It arrived yesterday. I just hooked it up. It works too! Here is the link: ebay hdmi splitter/hdcp stripper . The seller states in the title that it is a hdcp stripper. I emailed him before I bought it and he confirmed the same. The original price was $12.48. About a week ago it went up to $14.48. Now it is $16.48.
For the money the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter is a better deal at $15.90. It is a much better construction with a steal case and a heavy duty power cord. The hdmi splitter I bought off ebay is a cheap plastic thing with a cheap power cord. Interestingly, the Sanoxy hdmi splitter pictured on the Amazon website looks like the hdmi splitter I purchased from the ebay seller. The actual Sanoxy hdmi splitter I received in the mail looks totally different and it has a much more solid construction.
I hope this is helpful for someone!
Tim
That’s good news Tim!
Thanks for taking the time to post your findings – the more folks post their findings, the better …
I have the suspicion that only a very few splitters are made, just relabeled a lot.
The Sanoxy looks exactly like my ViewHD (older, working model).
hans
I bought two ViewHD splitters that look exactly the same as the Saxony from a different source and they don’t strip HDCP. I opened one and compared it to the circuit board of one in a review that does strip HDCP. The circuit boards are identical, even the markings on it, but it doesn’t strip HDCP. I looked up the chips used on the board and they are identical too but there must be something that changed in the firmware settings used on the HDMI chip that deals with HDCP. I searched for the data sheets for that chip but only found product briefs, no information about programming the chip, it is proprietary information which a non-disclosure agreement is required for.
The 3 chips on the board are:
STM8S003F3
Sil9187BCNU HDMI processor (This is the chip which deals with HDCP)
https://www.semiconductorstor.com/pdf/newsite/SiliconImage/Sil9187_DB.pdf
PI3HDMI412ADZBE
Brian
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/teardown-portta-hdmi-splitter/
Teardown of Portta HDMI splitter
Brian
Thanks Brian,
that’s actually pretty interesting (although the PDF link didn’t work). So this would suggested a setting in the firmware might be what “does the trick” ?
hans
$30 U.S. for shipping to Canada makes it prohibitively expensive from that source.
Brian
CONFIRMED 02/26/2016 “VIEW HD MINI” STRIPS HDCP INSTANTLY!!!
I bought this little guy from Amazon with a hope and a prayer that it would solve all of my HDCP issues and Hallelujah it was a miracle from the Video Capturing Gods!!!! This little box came in today and the HDCP Demons left with the Priest or maybe it was the UPS guy lol. I tested on Direct TV’s Gennie Mini with my Elgato for about 7 Hours. 4 straight on Fox Sports 1 and 3 on and off on multiple channels from Sports to local, pay per view and premium channels, everyone worked like it did before this crap came along!! Best $25 I ever spent!! Here is the Amazon Link took 1 day to get here with Free Amazon Prime 2 Day Shipping! View HD Mini HDMI Splitter
If you have any questions feel free to send me a message on my Facebook Page here at CBM Racing
CBM Racing
Thanks for confirming CBM Racing!
It’s the exact same model that I tested (2nd in the list), which seemed to fail with some. Good to know though that there are still versions that seem to work!
hans
Your welcome. Ya I had no clue which one to buy because who knows if by the time you get it they fixed itml I felt like I was drowning in a sea of HDMI Splitters and converters so I literally picked and prayed! I use it for a livestream so if it didnt work I would have had 20,000+ pissed off people sending me digital hate mail and comments. So it works with the Direct Tv Genie Mini paired up with a Elgato HD capture card. Really simple to setup plugin the power supply then take the HDMI cable coming out of the Genie Mini and plug it into the HDMI input on the box. I used HDMI Output 1 into the Elgatos HDMI Input then another cable from the Elgatos HDMI out to my 2014 Vizio smart tv and everything worked like a dream. I personally wouldn’t leave it setup 24/7. Use it only when you need it then unplug the splitter and put it back into its box until its needed again. I ran two 3 hour streams with it and it got warm so to have a good long life I recommend shutting it off when not in use because I have no clue if it will last a day or 10 years that is for another post I guess. But yes its confirmed as of February 27th 2016 it strips away HDCP encryption instantly. Hope this helps someone. Cheers!!!
CBM Racing
Awesome!
Thanks again for sharing!
hans
[…] English […]
Hi
Does anyone have a link to a splitter from a UK seller that strips HDCP?
Thanks.
Shane
Hi Shane,
I’m not aware of a specific store in the UK, but Amazon delivers (certain articles) to Europe, and you might get lucky on eBay.
AliExpress is a potential good resource as well – although I have not tested any of these splitters, I would presume there are only a few factories actually building them (pay attention to the description and possibly ask the seller for confirmation).
Hope this helps a little bit …
hans
No worries, I’ve ordered one from Amazon UK that has conflicting reviews, guess I’ll try it myself to find out. I’ll report back whether or not it was successful.
Shane
Hi Hans,
I’m very happy to report the one I purchased from Amazon UK works perfectly.
Here is the link for anyone interested.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KZBC92
Shane
Awesome!!!
Thanks for posting the Amazon link as well! Looks like most of the other 2-way splitters listed above. Great to have confirmation that this one works as well!
hans
Hello and thanks, I just ordered one.
I will update and post a new message as soon as I receive it and make some tests.
Thanks !
SimKard
Awesome!
hans
@Shane- Here you go:
digi4u.co.uk link
dominick_7
Bought this one on Amazon UK : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KZBC92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on March 17. Works great!
Eddy
Have I got some questions!
Firstly, thanks everyone on this post for the helpful comments, and advice re: HDCP removal, the sheer genuineness of the those who have helped others is very heartening, its rare to see a forum where sarcasm is the least of our worries!
My problem is that I have the following kit:-
BTSport YouView device (I am in UK) >> HDFury Integral >> Intensity Pro 4K……..
I am only interested in recording a 3840 x 2160 4K signal, and after a week of having all the above kit together (the HDFury Integral was the last to arrive), I have tried simply everything with this combination of kit, including trying the hacked 04622, but to no avail, Media Express only ever shows 1920 x 1080 50 at best. A few years ago, with my trusty Hauppauge PVR 1 and then 2, I got used to having no problems at all with 1080 using a 1080 splitter to remove HDCP v1.3, but right now, the last thing I want to see is a 1080 signal showing on Media Express!
I know that the removal of HDCP v2.2 encryption and, subsequently via the Integral, HDCP v1.4 encryption, needs to happen for a 4K capture device to have a decrypted signal, but I am not sure if I have it correct in my assumptions that the hacked firmware 046022 is meant to be removing HDCP v1.4 from the HDFury Integral’s output.
I know the HDFury Integral by defaults helps to remove HDCP v2.2 and output with HDCP v1.4, and that also by default, HDCP v1.4 encryption isn’t being removed.
Tests as per comments on here using the hacked firmware 046022, whilst setting the EDID switch to the bottom position, and reinserting the source etc are making no difference, because the Intensity Pro 4K is not seeing any 4K signal whatsoever, aside from the audio channels in Media Express being “alive”.
As a side note, I am using an older firmware for the Intensity Pro 4K that is recommended on Blackmagic’s forums, but still no joy.
This is failing I think for one, or maybe both, of the following reasons:-
1:- The Intensity Pro 4K is only able to accept up to 3840 x 2160 30, whilst the BTSport YouView device outputs ONLY at 3840 x 2160 50. I am not sure, and need help with this, as to whether the Intensity Pro 4K (and other similar capture cards) would, if they see a 3840 x 2160 50 signal incoming, drop the signal down to 30hz and work with that lower refresh rate if that is the highest refresh rate they can cope with, or do they simply have no chance of using a signal with a higher refresh rate?
2:- The hacked 046022 fw for the HDFury Integral is not working as I think it should be………because I am assuming the hack is supposed to be removing the HDCP v1.4 encryption from the output of the Intregral? Is it, and I hope this isn’t the case, that the hacked fw 046022 only removes HDCP v1.4 for lower (1080) resolutions and not 4K signals?
I am unsure as to whether what I think should be happening in 1: and 2: above are correct, so would be very interested to hear from others who might see where the issue is here….
If its correct that my only issue here would be that the Intensity Pro 4K is never going to be able to work with the 50hz 4K signal that my BTSport YouView box outputs at (and therefore meaning the HDFury Integral is doing everything correctly), then I might need to return the Intensity Pro 4K and get one of the £500 extra capture cards from Blackmagic, that are listed as being able to work at up to 4k @ 60hz, expensive and frustrating if so, but if I need to do that, then so be it.
Help! (copious amounts of Beer can be forwarded to anyone who manages to get me over this frustrating hurdle!)
dazzer169
Hi Dazzer169!
Thank you for your kind words – staying kind and helping each other is most certainly the most important thing for my website!
Unfortunately, I do not have the HDFury or 4K video sources for that matter.
I’m sure one of the guys here can help though.
hans
After you flash the firmware you have to unplug and replug it in to reboot it. Why are you using the Integral and the other device? Just use the Integral. Because you need 4K you likely need another firmware. You’ll want to ask a mod at the HDFury forum for which one youll need. If you get the right answer please do let us know what you find out that works please. Hope to do the same with 4K in the future. The storage space needed will be insane though.
Dominick
This model, available at AliExpress for only about $8 with free shipping, has been reported (on the Dutch version of this article) to strip HDCP as well.
It’s also reported that this one does NOT get hot, unlike some other models.
hans
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll give that one a shot.
james
Do you know if there is a US electric plug version?
J.B
Very good question, I had not thought about that. The ad doesn’t say anything about it, so you might want to contact the seller.
A side note though;
– Quite often these are simple 5V power supplies, and quite often they work in the 100-240V range,
– The poster (beneath the Dutch article) even used it without power supply (use short HDMI cable).
But asking the seller is definitely recommended – please let us know if they are available with a US plug in case you find out.
hans
Hello. I am in need of a bit of help here. I have a Sony KD65-9004A 4KTV. It is HDMI 2.0a compatible but according to Sony not HDCP 2.2 compliant. Is the HD Fury Integral what I would need to get the 4K signal to my TV?
Don
Hi Don,
since I do not have a HD Fury, maybe one of the visitors here that actually do have one, can comment on this?
hans
Yes.
Brian
You need the hack too right, to put it in the same folder as the original firmware but replace it with that one. Sucks HD Fury got shut down tonight.. First Slysoft now them :/
Dominick
Think its the firmware posted above but not sure. Currently asking them that now. Want to hook up a Tivo Bolt to record in 4K potentially. BTW HD FURY IS BEING SHUT DOWN.. actually its done TONIGHT, so if anyone here got an Integral, you just made it..
Dominick
Just ordered one now from their website so I think it hasn’t quite been shut down yet. Order went through so I’m assuming it’s all good. Thanks for the help.
Don
For those interested: two users confirmed that this HDMI splitter from AliExpress ($10/free shipping) works and strips HDCP.
The unit does not even seem to get warm, and one user even runs it without a power-supply.
hans
Thanks for this info, should I be worried though that in the description of the specs its says
HDCP pass-through
or
HDCP compliant
?
Nils
Hi Nils,
well, the Chinese merchants are horrible when it comes to a proper description, and on top of it, I suspect they’d like to not mention HDCP stripping too clearly. The one linked here has been tested by at least 2 people, but since these splitters have a come-and-go pattern when it comes to HDCP stripping, it will always be a little gamble if it will work properly. Then again, the price is right I would say for a gamble like this one, and seeing confirmations here would give me more comfort as well.
hans
Hey,
I can confirm that I bought the same splitter form Ebay and I was able to remove th HDCP and record from PS Vita throughh the Elgato HD.
Here is the link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262348290326
Thanks for everyones help :-)
Nils
Awesome Nils!
Thanks for posting and sharing! This will most certainly help others.
hans
About 6 months ago I bought one of the “cheapie” splitters (forget the brand, $19.95) and it worked fine for about two weeks. I did notice it seemed to be pretty hot. Then one day I saw weird flashes on the TV, and before I could do anything the screen went blank. Apparently something shorted in the splitter, and it fried the HDMI input in the TV. Had to resort to using the Composite connectors to use the TV. So just be aware! I did read a real horror story about use of a multi-port splitter in a Bar with multiple TVs where several of the big screen TVs were wiped out.– Just FWIW.
Fuller
Thanks for the heads-up Fuller!
I had not heard such horror stories before, I have however heard about a Raspberry Pi and a Pine64 blowing up HDMI ports, somehow.
Just being curious, but is all your equipment grounded?
hans
The ARC hdmi input on my 60″ plasma tv was fried by the Rogers Nexbox pvr when it malfunctioned and died. Rogers won’t pay for repair because I can’t prove their equipment caused the damage. Is there something available to protect hdmi inputs?
Brian
Man that s*cks …
Since I have never experienced this (knock on wood!);
1) Connect everything while all devices are powered OFF
2) Make sure all your devices are grounded if possible
That last one still baffles me, since a lot of TV’s have NO ground pin on their power cord. Maybe there is a smart reason for that, of which I’m not aware.
A friend of mine fried his HDMI ports by plugging the HDMI cables in while the devices were ON. Well, at least that’s the theory. Even though HDMI is supposed to be hot-swappable, manufacturers (Sony at least) state in their manuals that all devices must be OFF before connecting things (see this SuperUser.com post).
Then again, grounding might introduce HDMI ground loop hum. Never experienced that one either, but there a plenty posts online discussing that.
hans
I have had problems with this too. I ended up buy new cables from https://www.firefold.com. This helped. Not sure what happened to the old cables as they worked fine before. Anyway, I am good to go now!
Julie Hart
Hi Julie,
I’ve bought cables from FireFold before as well, and the experience has been good.
Another source for good cables is Amazon Basic cables.
hans
Just received this splitter (below) today,and tested it with the Elgato HD 60 from my Dish DVR. It worked instantly,with perfect HD quality on my pc/tv,with NO “HDCP” message. Sorry,I don’t a PS3 or Xbox to test it on.😔 Here is the splitter’s link (about $15 USD):PORTTA 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b compatible c1.4 3D 1080p swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
David
Hi David,
Awesome, and thanks for reporting.
Could you post the link again, it didn’t come through
hans
Sorry-I hope this link works,Lol.😃. PORTTA 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b compatible c1.4 3D 1080p swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
David
Awesome – thanks for taking the effort!
hans
Hi guys!
This Article was a life saver for me! I switched televisions when I moved and suddenly my PS3>Onkyo>LG TV (used to be a samsung) didn’t work anymore! Whereas the A.C. Ryan>Onkyo>LG TV still worked fine… So I didn’t have a clue what was happening. Didn’t even know there was copy protection protocols through HDMI!
I have just received the splitter below and got PS3>splitter>LG TV working in 2 minutes :D
THANKS A LOT! I will also try all devices>Onkyo>splitter>LG TV to see if that works (because in the meantime I also bought a Chromecast which also ‘denies’my tv)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDCP-HDMI-Splitter-Full-HD-1080p-Video-HDMI-Switch-Switcher-1X2-Split-1-in-2-Out/32545017175.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.51.JRqsDO
Rob
Awesome Rob!
Thank you and good to hear that you’ve got things up and running again
– and thank you so much for posting the link of the model you purchased! 
hans
just wanted to say that connecting the splitter after my onkyo receiver solved the problems with both the chromecast and the Playstation. So I didn’t need 2 splitters. Thought this might help some people. Thanks again!
Rob
Thank Rob for letting us know.
Glad you’ve got it to work!
That’s awesome!!
hans
Glad to hear some other are having success with other solutions but just to throw my 2cents in here, I have chased this dragon for years. My big hangup was video conferencing content share from devices that we own specifically but arent hdcp compliant. Some of these are hardwares being tested and created. The only solution I have found that consistently has allowed me to conduct my business…..is the ViewHD 1×2 MN3D. I have tested and tested over last few years now and for me, the only solution I have had faith in is that specific model
Kurt
Thanks Kurt for chiming in!
….
The more people confirm/test, the better
I assume you’re referring to this model?
hans
I am a little bit concerned. After reading the article and ALL or the responses above, I just learned that people believe that HDFury got shut down, but I came across this page after I ordered the Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz from their web site. The order went through just fine and I read some other recent news that they have filed a suit against Warner & Intel (http://www.digitaltrends.com/movies/legendsky-counterclaim-warner-bros-digital-content-protection/). So maybe they’re still alive and manufacturing new products. I don’t need to strip all HDCP, just go from a 2.2 device to a 1.4 TV. I am not sure that any of the splitters mentioned above would strip 2.2 because the article was written a while ago.
Can anyone confirm any splitters that remove HDCP 2.2 for 4K that don’t require something else to be hooked up to the other output of the splitter?
Chet
Hi Chet,
I’m not a HDFury owner, so maybe some of the other HDFury users can answer your question.
Also note that this article is indeed not intended to “rip” DHCP protected content, but to playback video on devices that are not HDCP compatible (like you do).
hans
Thanks Hans. I received confirmation that the Integral has shipped. I will report back my findings. I am definitely not trying to pirate anything, just simply trying to get 4K content onto my 4K TV with HDCP 1.4.
Chet
Hi Chet,
I’m curious if they are still shipping, so any info would be useful for other users
I realize you’re not using it for illegal activities, just wanted to write it below your post, so others might not get the idea that it was intended for that purpose. I myself am planning to make an ambilight project with this, and I have seen others with problematic HDMI equipment who found a good use for this as well,… so no illegal stuff either.
hans
I received a shipping notice first thing Monday morning. I am expecting it to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday). I will hook it up immediately, try some 4K content and report back. :)
Chet
I’d be excited as well
…. nice stuff you got there!
hans
Well, it arrived today (a day early) and really surprised me.
After spending the last 3 hours trying to get this thing to work with my 4KTV, I FINALLY got it set up properly. This was NOT a plug and play device. Honestly, I did so many things to try and get this thing to work. So many combinations of settings. Updated firmware, updated software, uninstall and reinstall of Netflix on the Roku, resetting to 4K UHD on the Roku, going between a Vudu UHD movie and Netflix just trying to get “Ultra HD 4K” to show up as an option…. I couldn’t even replicate my steps. BUT, I finally think I have been able to get the handshake to work.
The Roku now recognizes the Integra as a 4K device. The TV now recognizes the Roku and a 4K signal.
So, I don’t know how I did it, but this TV is finally displaying beautiful 4K content!
Chet
At least it’s good to hear that you’ve got it to work, and we now know that the device is capable of doing it!
Thanks for sharing
hans
A very interesting article – and lots of great input/replies to it, however, I couldn’t find anything that addressed the situation I’m about to built, so I wonder if you and/or your other readers could answer this question for me:
If a HDCP 1.2 Protocol Compliant splitter is used between a P.C. and a home theater video projector, would this permit the video file to play – regardless of the protection that may or may not be on the source video/DVD/BluRay??
Thanks
Ted
Using a HDMI Splitter, a PC and a projector, might or might not work.
This all depends if the projector is HDMI compliant and if the content played is HDCP protected or not.
If there is no HDCP protection used (and your PC is not adding this either), then it should just work.
However, with each PC/OS/Mediaplayer software combination, this can be different.
As for the standard, HDMI 1.2 vs 1.3, it’s a little unclear to me as of which standard HDCP is being added (see also this Wiki page).
This is exactly the reason why I started experimenting with these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP. It solves all the incompatibility issues – if you pick the right splitter. The latter is why we post our findings here with the cheap splitters we find all over the Internet.
So if you do not yet have a HDMI splitter: try one of these cheap ones listed here in the article and in the posts.
If you already do have one, then just hook it up and see what happens.
hans
Thanks Hans.
The projector does have HDMI in, so this is not an issue. In the past I have connected a lap-top to a TV via HDMI without any problems. I’ve also connected a HDD to a TV via USB, without any problems. This will be different in that I’ll be using a splitter so I can share the signal from my desk-top computer with a video projector, my PC monitor and a receiver (where one HDMI line will carry the audio).
As for “cheap” splitters – – I’m a firm believer that higher priced items don’t necessarily mean better – so I have no problem with this suggestion. That being said, I haven’t been able to find a low priced one among those listed on this site, that offer 1 in and 3 or 4 out (they all only have 1 in and 2 out), and the only ones that I can find which offer this make-up also are HDCP compliant, thus my question about the signal from the PC (which isn’t HDCP compliant) being able to pass through without any blockage problems from the splitter.
Ted
Hi Ted,
I can confirm that my cheap splitter, 1.5 years later, still works great … so cheap does indeed not always mean “junk”.
As for finding a 1×3 or 1×4 splitter,… I see that most just want a 1×2, so you’re right that you could not find much on larger models. However, when looking at AliExpress, I did find some. The result of my search can be found here.
I have not been able to test any of these, so it remains a gamble. This one however looks a lot like mine, just bigger, and advertises HDCP as well. Now I cannot guarantee that this one works of course, but it’s $15. It might be worth a try.
I did find a couple on Amazon as well, again: no guarantee that they will remove HDCP, but not super expensive either.
With this model a user suggests it strips HDCP, not sure if that is still the case of course. You might want to go through the reviews of the splitters presented in this Amazon Search and look for HDCP.
Amazon might be a few dollars more, but when located in the US, shipping will be a lot faster.
If you find a model that works, please let us know, so I can update the list in this article …
hans
Thanks again Hans,
I believe I’ll check out the PORTTA 4PET0104 splitter (from Amazon). I’ll let you know how this “cheap” unit works.
Ted
Ted
Thank Ted! That would be great!
I’ll keep my fingers crossed that this one does the trick.
One thing Ive noticed with 1×4 devices, as far as I could find info online: At least one of the output ports might need a HDCP compliant device. I understand that this typically should be port 4 or 3. But again; I have not had the chance to play with a 1×4 splitter. So your input would be great, even if that particular model fails.
hans
Hi Hal,
I’m about to disappoint you – – I’ve decided not to use a 1:4 splitter, so won’t be able to test out the one I was going to get. The reason for this change of plan is because further research has shown that I can get the same results by running a HDMI line from the PC to the receiver and then run a new line from the receiver to the projector – – apparently with-out any signal loss…
This brings me to a new question for you:
my current choice for a 1×2 splitterr is the VHD-1X2MN3D – – however, I notice that ViewHD has another splitter that has similar approval ratings – the Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto. Do you have any experience from this unit – and if so, even though I don’t plan to move up to 4k in the long range future, do you think it would be a wise choice, or would I be better off sticking with the older model (the MN3D)??
Ted
Ted
Hey Ted,
Just be aware that the route you are about to take may not work. I have several Onkyo receivers that I was trying to take the main HDMI output, as well as trying the secondary HDMI output, into a splitter with it’s main HDMI output going my Samsung LED TV and the secondary output to an HDMI video recorder. For whatever reason, I could never get it to work. Only when I took the HDMI output from a device (AppleTV, Amazon FireTV, Bluray player) into the splitter, it’s main output to the TV and the secondary output to a recorder did it work. You may have better luck with a different AV Receiver (and please post your findings here as well as model numbers for all the equipment used) as well as just going into a projector. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Trev
No worries Ted – you’re not disappointing me
After all, we all have to find our way to a working solution, and in the end that’s all that matters.
Sharing your findings here is appreciated though, since others might run into a similar scenario.
As for 4K splitters: I have no experience with those, since I have no use (yet) for 4K video. Maybe in the future when I decide to invest in a new TV
. Considering the price of a working 1×2 HDMI splitter (non 4K), I’d go with that one, unless the 4K splitter strips HDCP as wel of course and only if it’s affordable.
@Trev: Thanks for sharing!
On my old (5 years old) Yamaha this worked: HDCP source into HDMI-input of the receiver, and the HDMI output of the receiver to a splitter and the splitter to my TV. But I have heard of others running into the same situation as you did where the splitter had to be connected directly to the source that had HDCP protection.
hans
Further research has steered me away from the unit I was considering – not because it won’t work, but because, where I live (Canada), it was going to cost more than double, at Amazon.ca, than what Amazon.com sells it for….
I’ve since settled on a different unit, that’s also available from Amazon in both countries (link – supports HDMI 1.4, 4K, keeps audio te same as the source). One customer review said it will strip out the HDCP protection, but, for their purposes (gaming), it caused other problems.
We shall see…
Ted
Hey, Everyone! Thanks for the great info.
I am wondering about the following: Dish DVR > splitter > dual output (TV and computer storage). (My DVR is too full, and is not really for archiving.) I do not want to lose any content quality when copying for personal use later. All done by HDMI of course.
1. Any specific recommendations?
2. Any definitive word on keeping surround sound capability?
Thank you very much.
Michael
Your setup will work.
A few things you’d want to pay attention to, if you’d like to keep the surround sound:
1) The splitter will have to support surround sound (AC3/DTS/etc/etc).
Some of these splitters seem to downsample to just stereo, so you’ll have to pay attention to that.
2) For recording on your PC, you’d need some sorts of video grabber.
There are several different brands and models available, and I’m sure that not all of them support surround sound like AC3/DTS either. So you’ll have to pay attention with that one as well. Here is a list at Amazon for example, listing the HDMI “recorders” they have available. I recommend reading the specs (which rarely mention surround sound) and check the user comments.
Hope this helps.
hans
Yes, that helps a great deal.
I think the problem is going to be finding an inexpensive video grabber.
Thank you for the good direction.
Michael
Hi Michael,
I know it’s not top of the line, but I have been very pleased with my Elgato Game Capture HD.
It’s not the cheapest I have seen, app.$150, but it has performed very well for me on both MacOS X and Windows 10.
So far I’ve used it for:
– HDMI recording (tests for this article, and some game recording),
– screenshots from a HDMI input (for documenting some of my articles here),
– converting VHS to MP4.
It is not often mentioned that the Elgato has the option for analog input as well (component, super video and composite – if I recall correctly, for s-video a separate cable needs to be purchased). My sister had an echo of her first kid, and received it in 2003 on VHS and DVD. The VHS recording with the Elgato actually proved of a better quality than the DVD that had been made at the time.
In the past I have had Hauppauge, which used to have a stellar reputation, but long term driver support has been disappointing – not sure what the status is these days.
Pinnacle used to be my favorite on the Windows platform, but since I have switched to Mac, I can’t use it anymore. It also has been relatively quiet with that company, not sure if that’s a good or a bad thing.
I have tried a few cheap grabbers from eBay, AliExpress and the likes – they work, but in the end drivers become a problem and the quality isn’t the best.
I have found that searching for a “game capturing” device, shows quite a few good options.
Another good option might be one of these upcoming “video recorders” – a little box, that runs standalone, grabs video and the stores it on a USB drive.
hans
Thanks for that. How do you feel about the products from Epiphan? Not that I’m going to buy one; just curious.
Michael
Their website looks great and gives a good impression … but unfortunately, I have never had the pleasure of seeing, using or even hearing about their products. This obviously doesn’t mean their products are bad … I just have zero experience with them.
hans
I trying to use Directv on a video wall prossesor but the darn DCHP keep messing it up. Any ideas to get around it. Thanks I can really use some help
Heiko Langrehr
Hi Heiko!
I’m assuming you’re using HDMI to go from your DirecTV receiver to your video wall processor, and your video is 720 or 1080 (not 4K), then you could try one of the cheap HDMI splitters mentioned in this article.
You would not use it to actually split HDMI, but rather to remove the HDCP protection, so it will not interfere with your video wall processor.
So DirecTV receiver -> splitter -> Video wall processor.
The splitters have become very cheap, I’d guess around $10.
hans
This might be a little late for you, but I was trying to do the same thing. The only way I could solve it was to downgrade the signal to component and then back up again to HDMI. Video Wall looks great. From 20 feet away, the difference between that signal and a pure 1080 HD signal is almost negligible.
Joe
Thanks Joe. So the HDMI strpper thing didnt work for you? I have ordered both since the directv boxes have component out. Sure hope I can get this finshed and have my customer of my back. Dont know why the vido prossesers have it build in that they don’t cause the problem. I will up date as soon as I have the problem solved. FYI DIsh dose not have the same problems.
Heiko Langrehr
Not all splitters strip HDCP – I think that’s one of the major issues when picking one.
So before doing anything complicated, test if it really strips HDCP.
Please keep us posted on how things work out! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
hans
Thanks 4 your info
TIP:
I got the CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DHCP
herboer
Thanks 4 your info
TIP:
I got the CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DTCP
But watch out, the more recent V1,3b model doesn’t work
herboer
Thanks Herboer!
Seems the CKITZE BG-520 is a hit and miss. I noticed that the HDMI 1.3b compatible models seem to fail stripping HDCP.
Note: a good (and cheap) alternative source for splitters that strip HDCP is AliExpress.
hans
This thread has been really helpful to me. Thanks everyone!
I wanted to share some info for my specific situation. I have a nice Apple computer display that I wanted to use to watch Blu Rays from my BD Player. I’m playing only discs I’ve purchased and I’m not interested in copying them.
The monitor uses DVI-D and of course does not have HDCP. Typically, hooking things up it will flash thrice, which means “wrong video format.” Computer monitors and TVs are not the same devices in all ways. Based on the great info here I was able to get a setup that works pretty well.
Basically it’s BD player > Portta HDMI 1.3 Splitter > E-More HDMI to DVI & Audio Extractor > Apple Cinema Display.
I get good 2-channel audio from the Audio Extractor, which is as much as I need. You can probably get 5.1 cia coax digital but I have no way to test that.
It’s not perfect but it works. The aspect ratio of my display isn’t the same as 1080p, it’s a 1920×1200. The video image is at the top of the screen, with a strange repeat of the frame on the bottom 1″ of the screen. It’s easy to ignore and I haven’t figured out how to avoid it. In terms of color, I suspect it’s not quite right. Based on some research it’s likely that the display expects to get full-range 0-255 RGB. My BD player doesn’t have a ton of settings and it’s most likely sending it limited-range 16-235 RGB. No Deep Color possible via DVI Single Link. Still it looks fantastic generally. I’m going to put a piece of paper over it and call it done.
Here’s what did NOT work for me:
Sanoxy 1.3 Splitter – PCB says ‘HDMI 1.4 1to2 with 3D, Rev1.1″ even though listing was for HDMI 1.3. Generic and branded chips. Seller was not Speed LLC, should have tried that.
Ali Express 1.3 Splitter – PCB is different from above, says “20150710 , 0102”, Branded chips. Might work for you, though.
HDMI to DVI adapter (general type) in any configuration. Well, when used as follows I got a signal but it had lots of horiz pink lines. Not acceptable. BD Player > Portta Splitter > HDMI to DVI adapter > Apple Cinema Display.
Sony BD player. I got lucky and got a Samsung that worked. I believe it uses HDMI 1.4 vs the Sony’s 1.3, but it’s not listed in the manual. I was surprised that would make a difference.
Anyway I hope this helps anyone in my same situation. Based on my googling for my display, there are others out there.
Cheers
Robby
Thanks Robby for sharing your findings and contributing to the conversation!
Awesome!
And of course: great that you’ve got things to work.
Thanks again for sharing!
hans
Hey Robby, I’m trying to do the same. I wondered if you know why your two devices work? Why do you need both the a splitter and a DVI converter/extractor? I guess the Portta splitter is the one that does the magic (scaling?), and the converter is just so you get video on the correct connector and a bonus of audio out? @gingerbeardman on twitter
matt
Hi Matt,
I have not seen any (affordable) HDMI to DVI converters that support HDCP. As far as I know, most HDMI-DVI converters only pass on the digital video data from the HDMI connector straight to the DVI pins. So there is no logic (with most of them anyway) that converts the digital HDMI data to analog DVI pins, and there is nothing in place to handle HDCP. I assume your device can handle the digital DVI data, so the analog conversion may not be an issue for you. The HDCP however is, as it’s not part of the DVI standard.
Hence; a HDCP stripping splitter is needed to at least make the digital data unencrypted so your DVI device can handle it.
Hope this helps
hans
Hi Matt, Hans has it right, that it’s a two-stage process. I tried it with a HDMI to DVI-D passive adapter, just to get the pins to connect, coming out of the Portta splitter. That *should* have worked but at best it gave me bad quality signal as noted above. The HDMI to DVI-D active device seems to do something important that the passive doesn’t, though many have said the HDMI signal ought to be compatible with the DVI-D pins. I’ve been using this system I described above for 18 months or so and I’ve been really happy with it. It takes 30 seconds for the HDCP to get sorted out but after that it’s all good.
Good luck. Hopefully someone with better understanding of the signals can explain what’s going on. I was happy that I could get it done even though it took two devices. My video setup is on a rolling cart and when I built the shelf part I made a little area for the extra boxes to live so they and the extra cables aren’t visible, just the disc player and audio controls. There are ventilation holes so the devices don’t get too hot, especially important for the Portta device.
Robby
Thanks Robby!
hans
Hey Robby, I finally got the Portta 1×2 splitter and HDMI to DVI+Audio extractor, but no dice with my setup.
The only thing I can think is that this combo doesn’t work for 720p which is the resolution my device (SNES Classic Mini) is outputting. I’ll try to borrow a device that outputs 1080p that I can test with.
matt
Thanks for this very informative article and comments.
I’m currently looking for an HDMI splitter that will remove HDCP and manage EDID. I explained in detail my case on this post:
https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/53uokh/need_help_finding_the_hdmi_splitter_that_suits_my/
Do you have any suggestion for a suiting model?
Turom
Ehm … I’ll admit that I had to lookup EDID …
Maybe some of the visitors have a suggestion, I honestly wouldn’t know.
hans
Hi chaps,
What im trying to achieve doesn’t seem to be listed here so far.
I have a 28″ viewsonic VX2880ml 4K monitor which will only do 30fps for 4k.
I am trying to find a way to use my amazon 4K firetv box on this monitor, but even with a couple of the switch boxes listed here (cant remember what they are im at work so will look later, the iSolem is one) I am unable to get this to work yet.
Question is, because the monitor is HDMI 1.4 am I out of luck anyway, or could this still be possible to get working?
russ collins
Hi Russ,
I do not have any 4K equipment, but as far as I recall HDMI 1.3 only supports up to 1080p (see Wiki, which indicates that 4K starts as of HDMI 1.4).
Now, this doesn’t mean you’re out of luck, it will just be a matter of finding the right splitter (if it exists).
Maybe others here have suggestions, since I cannot test this, but I’d assume AliExpress is the most likely source – read the comments, if any are available on AliExpress underneath the product info. The descriptions can be pretty bad.
If you find one, please post it here! I’m sure others would love to see one of those!
hans
I’ve been successfully using the SANOXY:
I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD connected to a DirectTV satellite receiver with the SANOXY. I suspect DTV changed their encryption last week to stop support covered by the SANOXY. I initially bought 2 of the SANOXY splitters (in case one failed). When I received them I verified both work. The 1st thing I did was test with the 2nd and now both fail.
It is very frustrating that broadcasters can now work with manufacturers to determine when your TV stops working.
I’m still researching and also in the process of testing an alternate solution and will post, here, with new information.
Jeff29
Hi Jeff,
thank you very much for reporting your succes.
Strange though that they no longer seem to work now …
I’m not sure that DirecTV can add to their firmware to not work with certain equipment.
As far as I understand how HDCP works, a “license key” (see: Wiki HDCP) is requested. Such a license is obtained by the TV manufacturer, and I would assume that blocking such a license, would mean that potentially a lot of TV’s will no longer work.
I can also not imagine that firmware of for example the DirecTV box has all possible [valid and invalid] licenses available, this would mean constant updating of the firmware since new licenses will be released frequently, not to mention that one would not know how many licenses would be available in the next year(s).
Maybe this FAQ gives ore info, but as far as I understand, when the license expires, the manufacturer simply must stop using the keys – so I assume that the expired key will still function. The manufacturer is simply not allowed to use it anymore in newly manufactured equipment.
Did you connect everything as you had done before when the splitter did work?
Did you try connecting a valid HDCP device (ie. your TV) to the “other” port on the splitter?
hans
Hans,
First, thank you for your time! You have taught me more about HDCP and what you say aligns with my results.
I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD. When DTV initially turned on HDCP it stopped working. I know this because I spoke with DTV and they told me the day they turned on HDCP (which matched the time the 1540HD stopped displaying video and gave me the HDCP error).
When it stopped again I just assumed DTV changed their version of HDCP and eliminated systems supporting older versions of the spec. Yes, I know the spec covers backwards-compatibility but I have read that coverage can be inadequate.
I ordered several other HDCP strippers and tested. All failed.
In the process of testing and pulling my hair out I finally went back to a basic premise for testing and removed my scan-converter (DVDO iScan Duo) to direct-connect my DTV HR20 and TV (over an extender). The TV started working, again.
I immediately plugged back in the original SANOXY (from the link, above) and it worked, too.
Last year the DVDO engineer told me I needed to upgrade my firware because of an HDCP issue. Everything was working so I didn’t bother–and I forgot until this process queued the memory.
I will be upgrading my DVDO, ASAP! I anticipate it will resovle the issue given everything appears to be working when I remove it from the chain.
I will post my results.
Thank you, again, both for your initial post sharing valuable information and for your care in following up and continuing to help!
Jeff29
Thanks Jeff29, for the compliments, and you’re most welcome. I actually enjoy writing articles and interaction with visitors. If only I could do this for a daytime job
….
Good to hear you’ve got the issue resolved. I guess the faulty firmware with DHCP issue could cause unexpected results, as in your case. Glad it’s fixed now,…
hans
[…] bit tricky because not all HDMI splitter have this “feature” more about that here link. Alternative 1: you can you use this kind of HDMI to SDI converters link and extend the range a […]
No link or references showing up in your post.
Michael
Hi Michael,
what post are you referring to?
hans
The one directly above from PingBack: coolquentin.com
Michael
Sorry if this seems to be a repeat ?, I just don’t see my application. I wish to record from my PC’s HDMI video output. If I put the easycap HD video capture box after the video card, then into the mentioned 2 port HDMI splitter, with 32 gig flash drive, it seems this setup would work… ( I realize the splitter is not a guarantee fix) I also have a receiver with HDMI inputs & an HDMI output, so not sure if I could use this in place of the splitter since it grabs the HDMI source then pushes it out to my flat screen. Thanks for any help/advice in advance…
timman
Hi Timman,
I’m not 100% sure what you’re trying to do, so forgive me if I misunderstood.
You’re trying to record HDMI out from your PC on a HDMI capture box. Seems to me that PC -> Spliiter -> Capture Box, should work, if the splitter strips HDCP. Your receiver most likely will not strip HDCP though. You could have the 2nd output of the splitter go to the receiver though, to monitor the output rom your PC.
hans
Spot on! Thank you! Yea this is what I am trying to accomplish, without using software, since they always want you to upgrade, what ever version of capture software one may purchase + a fee. Just didn’t know about hdcp till now. Thanks again!
timman
Trying to get video out of an X1 Comcast cable extender box that only has hdmi out to an older plasma monitor that does not have hdmi. Understand the hdcp issues but looking for a source to make this work without spending a lot of $$$. Anyone find a reliable fix?
Mike
This seems simple if I understand it correctly. You need to convert your HDMI signal into whatever signal the old monitor accepts. Just get an adapter of the appropriate type.
Michael
Mike might be right though that HDCP will cause issues …
So I’d recommend a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, and then from there have the adapter as suggested by Michael.
Most of these adapters do not handle HDCP … unless one or the other Chinese company produces these haha – if you find one: please post it here!
hans
Of course, that is correct. However, IMHO, we first need to figure out the physical connection problem. Any converter to address HDCP issue would come next, as finding an all-in-one solution is more difficult. Further, we do not know if the old monitor can even handle HDMI, and old monitors do not usually do so.
Michael
I have an Xfinity X1DVR connected to a Hauppauge PVR2 through a ViewHD (VHD-1X2MN3D) splitter just purchased from Amazon (Nov 2016). At first I couldn’t get it to work, but then I remembered what was said in the “Cheap HDMI splitter section” of the article:
****”Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.+****
As soon as I completed the connection from the splitter’s empty output, to my TV, all worked fine. Earlier,I had gone into the X1 settings and set it’s output to 1080p60, which I think is a necessity for the PVR2 box to work.
So in summary, my connections are:
X1-HDMI-output>ViewHD-input>ViewHD-output2>PVR2-input (PVR2-output stays empty and does not get any connection)
and
ViewHD-HDMI-output1>TV-HDMI-input (This “bypass” connection to the TV was the key for my success)
twincam
Awesome!
Thanks for posting TwinCam!
hans
This working just fine for me HDMI 1.3 1×2 1 to 2 1080P 3D Splitter Amplifier 1 in 2 out for Dual Dispaly .
KJELL JANSSON
Hi Kjell!
Thanks for confirming – awesome and happy to hear it worked for you!
Anyone wondering where this link is: here.
hans
I tried to make my Elgato HD60 game capture work via HDMI with my PS3 using just a 4 x 1 HDMI switch and it worked perfectly! I didn’t have to buy any converter or HDMI splitter. Also, I don’t even need my Elgato software open or running to use my PS3 through it so that’s another reason that I don’t need any HDMI splitter.
Joe
What brand and model switch did you use?
Michael
Etekcity model number 025706344616. The manufacturer Etekcity is on eBay with the same exact member name “etekcity”. It’s a real bang for your buck for only $30. It supports 4K and 3D. It has PIP (picture in picture) option and even a wireless remote control (battery included).
Joe
Thanks for reporting Joe!
Do you happen to have a link? When I looked for this seller, I noticed quite a lot of HDMI splitters and switches, some looking very familiar haha … but anyhoo: would you mind posting a link here?
hans
I only found 13 results on eBay when searching for the model number which all show the exact same product. The lowest price on there is directly from the manufacturer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etekcity-4K-x-2K-4-Port-High-Speed-HDMI-Switch-with-IR-Wireless-Remote-Control-/311750591375?hash=item4895c8838f:g:7aQAAOSwcUBYPUzc
Joe
Thanks Joe!
It even supports picture-in-picture? Nice!
hans
This web page has saved me an enormous amount of grief. In Australia, 11 years ago I bought a very expensive Pioneer Plasma HDTV (cost $6,100 in 2005). At the time, everyone said pay extra for a 5 year warranty, which I did. It is still in perfect condition with a great image. However, with advances in software & most of what I watch is satellite TV, suddenly a couple of years ago, I was unable to watch anything using a HDMI cable, because of HDCP blocking the signal. So for a couple of years, I have had to be content with SD TV. I contacted Pioneer, who no longer manufacture HDTVs, & they had no solution other than to go and buy a new TV. Unable to purchase the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter (Model VHD-1X2MN3D) here in Australia, I ordered it online through Amazon. Within a week it arrived (had to pay $10 for postage but worth every cent). Also had an incompatible electrical plug, but easily solved. Now I have perfect HD viewing on all my satellite channels (about 150, most of which are HD)…… so happy with the outcome & this smart little device!…. highly recommended :-)
Robert Lucas
Hi Robert,
see, THAT is just awesome!
This is exactly the reason why I started digging into this topic.
Nice, and super cool to hear that this fixed you problem, and made your TV all good again.
hans
Hans, I have followed this with great interest. I do not quite understand however if the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter will do what I need. I have a Comcast cable box that I want to connect to a Sony BDVE580 HDMI in and then from HDMI out to a HDFuryII on a Pioneer TV. The cable box and the Blue Ray player both work separately on the HDFury. If I plug the cable box into the Sony input I get nothing and I assume it is about HDCP. May I think that the ViewHD will take the output of the cable box and give it a handshake so that it can then pass clear HDMI out on just one output with the other not connected?
Hopefully, Tom
Tom
Hi Tom,
It took me a while to realize that the Sony BDVE580 is actually a home theatre set.
So you have multiple HDMI devices connect to the Sony, and the HDMI out to your TV.
Now certain home theatre devices is not the best when it comes to HDMI and HDCP.
So this could very well be related to your problem.
You could hookup a regular HDMI capable TV to the output of your Sony to see if your Sony is to blame or not.
I’m not familiar with the HDFury2, but as far as I can see here, it could be loaded with specific HDCP stripping firmware.
(any HDFury user who would like to chime in here?)
It could also be that your Sony is to blame. In that case you’d want to feed the video signal (from the Comcast box for example) through one of these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP, and have the output of the splitter go to your Sony. I’d suspect that the output of your Sony’s HDMI-out would then work with your HDFury.
What also might work, is grabbing the output of the Sony -> Splitter -> TV.
It will take a little experimenting to see what is causing the issue to begin with.
The good news though is that these splitters are really cheap.
hans
Hi,
Thanks for this article!
I got the BYTECC HMSP102K 1×2 HDMI 3D 4K2K Splitter at the local Fry’s. I tried the Bytecc with the AverMedia EzRecorder 130 and Sony Blu-ray BD-BX37 player (trying to copy a wedding video).
Unfortunately, the Bytecc didn’t work. EzRecorder could see the wedding video, but complained that the copy protection wouldn’t let it record it.
Guess I’ll try the SANOXY from Amazon.
.
Ken
Thanks Ken for reporting that the BYTECC did not work for you.
Keeping my fingers crossed the SANOXY does work …
hans
Hi Hans,
I ended up getting the Portta PET0102 HDMI Splitter 2 Port 1×2 from Amazon.
From my initial tests, I’m happy to report that the Portta device worked!
I was able to make a recording of my wedding video blu-ray dvd.
Ken
Awesome !
Thanks Ken for posting your findings and a link to the splitter that worked for you!
It’s much appreciated!
hans
Hey Ken, What exactly was the way you set up your system? I’ve found that with some of the 1×2 splitters, if you do not hook up output 1 to an HDMI port on your TV that the encryption still passes and will keep you from recording. My LED HDTV has 5 inputs, one of which I use for the splitter’s first output with the 2nd output going to my recording device.
Let us know as much info about how you have everything configured. Thank you…
trev
Hi Trev,
Thanks for replying!
I had the BYTEC set up this way: Sony Blu-Ray player -> BYTECC -> Acer Monitor.
If the BYTECC needed to be connect to a TV, then the setup wouldn’t be very convenient for me.
Ken
Again, Many thanks to Hans for setting up this blog!! I still follow every new post, even after posting my findings and solutions…
trev
Thanks Trev for following and contributing! It’s very much appreciated!
hans
I got a 4K Amazon Fire TV and a Seiki SE42UMS 4k TV. The ad for the TV said HDCP v2.2 support, but it ended up not having it… Was very frustrating. I ended up taking a discount refund and kept the TV in hopes of getting it to work.
Any suggestions?
Jordan
Hi Jordan,
I don’t know about HDMI 2.2, since I do not have a device that requires this. Does the Amazon FireTV 4K need this?
My 2 Android boxes that do 4K might require it, so in that case I’d say using a HDCP stripping splitter, or a HDCP stripping HDMI switch, might work for your scenario just fine.
hans
Try using an Etekcity 4 x 1 HDMI switch. It supports 4k and 3D. I use it to connect my PS3 to Elgato game capture to 4k TV. It works flawlessly. According to known HDCP handshake via HDMI, it shouldn’t work but IT DOES.
Joe
Thanks Joe!
The more confirmations and new info we get the better! Thanks for posting!
hans
So is there an updated hdcp fix firmware for the integral?
Tyler
Hi Tyler!
Unfortunately, I do not own a HDFury Integral, hopefully one or the other HDFury owner here might be able to provide info for you.
hans
Portta PET0102 HDMI Splitter 2 Port 1×2 v1.3 work fine whit Sky Italy decoder and Atomos Ninja 2 recorder.
Hi quality 1080p 25 fps. Second output like TV HD not necessary. HDCP is removed whit 1 input and 1 output.
Mokona
Hi Mokona!
Thank you for confirming that the Portta PET0102 is working for you as well – excellent!
hans
Hello.
Any idea if my problem can be related to hdcp? I have pretty old video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e. It works fine with ps4. However, with brand new wbox hd3 digital receiver (terestial) I’m able to see only black screen. Signal strenght and quality is perferct. Test and Program guide comes rhtough but as soon as start wathing actual tv Program, black screen!!! Just switching HDMI cable to by older digital receiver Topfield tf5100pvr the tv is just fine. I have tried with splitter 2 to 1 (as I would need ps4 and wbox) to my video projector.
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
This does sound like a HDCP problem. I could be wrong of course, but your Program Guide and such are visible, just as soon as you watch regular TV it produces a black screen.
If you’d be using a splitter to remove the HDCP protection, then keep in mind that the splitter is designed to connect 1 video source (PS4 for example), which’ video signal then is repeated over two output (for example 2 TV’s).
In your setup you’d probably want something like this:
WBOX -> HDMI Splitter (as mentioned in this article) -> HDMI switch (input 1) -> Projector
and
PS4 -> HDMI switch (input 2)
This way the HDCP is stripped from the WBOX, and you can use the HDMI switch to switch between the 2 video sources (PS4/WBOX).
hans
Hi,
just want to summarize my case here. You can see some discussion about the topic in this forum but as said, here is the summary about the initial problem and the solution!!! Yes, I got it working.
So I have pretty old video project Panasonic pt-ae700e with 10m long HDMI cable. It has only one single HDMI input. I have 2 input devices PS4 and wbox hd3 digibox for tv programs. Naturally I needed HDMI switch so I purchased http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en. With that only wbox hd3 is working. PS4 gives black screen.
So I purchased (based on the recommendation by Hans in this forum) Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9642JS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). With this I’m able to stream from digibox and PS4.
wbox hd3 HDCP v.1.4a and PS4 2.x (I think).
Thanks Hans!
Janne
Thanks Janne for posting “the solution” here!
Glad to hear things are working now!
hans
Hi Hans,
thanks for motivation kick You gave via this forum! I have had the splitter for some weeks but get tired as it did not work. Now I tried it again, and maybe I did something differently. Now Wbox is working. But PS4 is not!
I have Delock http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en
Maybe I need to try some other PS4 compatible. Some googling with “PS4 compatible hdmi splitter” gave for example
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS
Janne
Hi Janne,
I do not have much experience with the PS4, but I would assume that any HDMI splitter that strips HDCP should do the trick.
If you scroll up, one of the users uses a HDMI switch instead if a HDMI splitter to strip HDCP – I have not been able to test this though.
I can imagine that there are 2 major groups for HDMI: Those from before HDMI 2.0, and those starting at HDMI 2.0 – maybe your PS4 prefers HDMI 2.0. (not sure if you have a PS4 or PS4Pro)
hans
Hi,
Thanks Hans. So I might have an issue around v2.0? Now with Delock splitter PS4 is out but Wbox is working…
Options to go on:
1) Firmware upgrade for video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e
2) Find some HDMI switch that might work
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
How exactly did you wire everything?
My guess is you would need two HDCP strippers (either a HDMI splitter or HDMI switch). One for the PS4 and one for the WBox.
hans
Hi,
is it about hdcp versions?
wbox is 1.4a. This is a fact. Needs stripper in order to work.
PS4 probably is 2.0a (not a fact but PS4 supports HDR according to tech specs and HDR support is in 2.0a). PS4 does not work with stripper but without does.
So I would need 2 strippers and probably they should be a different brand. Did I get it right?
– Janne
Janne Korpela
Current setup is (with Delock 2 to 1 splitter):
WBOX -> Delock input 1,
PS4 -> Delock input 2
from Delock 10m long HDMI to Projector input
I have only HDMI 1 input in video projector.
Reg,
Janne
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
Ehm, I’m a little confused … sorry …
Did you mean “Delock High Speed HDMI Splitter 1 in > 2 out” – offering 1 input and 2 outputs,
or a switch “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output?
The devices we talk about here are the “splitters” (1 input, 2 outputs).
The intend of these splitters is to have one video source, and two devices to display (TV/Projector/Recorder). Since it strips HDCP (with certain models), quite a lot of folks use this just as that: a stripper – meaning that only one input and one output is being used (the second output nit being used).
The only device that switches between 2 inputs, that has been mentioned in the comments as it might strip HDCP, is the Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High-Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control.
It seems to me that you’re looking for something like this (2 video sources on one projector)?
Also note: I have not been able to find any confirmation that any of the “DeBlock” branded models will strip actually HDCP.
hans
If the PS4 works without stripper, then you would not need one …
How is your setup right now?
PS4 goes to HDMI-in of the Sony,
WBox to HDCP stripper,
HDCP stripper to Sony HDMI-in,
and finally Sony HDMI-out to TV?
hans
Hi,
I need and I have the device “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output”.
Well, at least seems, that the switch is helping with Wbox. Now it is working. But PS4 with the switch is not working (as it is when directly connected to projector).
It is strange that PS4 is not working with the switch. Cna it be actually something else than HDCP issue? Like switch causing some noise or quality so that PS4 signal does not get through? As I said, wbox DHCP is version 1.4a and seems that PS4 is 2.x. I have 10m long HDMI cable between switch and projector.
Probably I will try Etekcity.
Reg,
Janne
Janne Korpela
Hi Janne,
Unfortunately, I have no experience with switches like that.
It’s even stranger that the PS4 just works without switch, but refuses to work with switch.
Does the PS4 work with just the 10m HDMI cable? 10m is quite a long cable.
Maybe you can run a quick test with a much shorter cable?
You could be right about HDMI 1.2 and 2.x – maybe the switch is not HDMI 2.x compatible.
Seems you’d might have to test another HDMI switch, this EtekCity switch claims to be PS4 compatible, and at least one user here confirmed it to strip HDCP. If that switch does not strip HDCP, then you could still add one of the HDMI splitters mentioned here to strip HDCP for the WBox.
hans
Hi Janne,
I was just digging through the comments at Amazon and found that 2 users complained about HDCP issues with the EtekCity – and others seem to have zero issue with HDCP. Since one of the users here confirmed this EtekCity at eBay to work, which looks identical, you might want to get that one. Then again; with Amazon you’d be able to return the product in case it doesn’t work … but if you’re not in the US, then that might still be problematic. (this is the same product with Amazon in Germany)
hans
Wish me luck!
I have no intent on recording but I want to use my second monitor/capture card as a pass-through so I can watch my chrome cast or apple tv while playing some grindy games. I’ve tried just running Netflix at the same time but it causes lag as it’s taking some bandwidth from my PC and running iTunes does me no good because my movies are saved onto the same hard drive and that destroys my frames per second.
Ripley
Hi Ripley,
Let us know when you get it to work and what splitter (link) you’ve used!
hans
I purchased the Portta PET0102 from Amazon recently, and I can report that this device is fully HDCP-compliant.
Both output ports are passing HDCP.
For reference, the board is marked ‘HZ’ and ’16 15′ on the top side, and ‘213 PCB v2.0’ on the bottom side, and uses the Lontium LT86102SX chip
Milton Waddams
Hi Milton!
Good to hear this worked for you and thank you so much for the very detailed confirmation and confirmation on the Portta PET0102!
hans
Sorry, this was not a confirmation that the Portta PET0102 strips HDCP. Quite the opposite.
Milton Waddams
Milton, I believe you’ve gotten the wrong idea about this subject. It is not about the many products that conform to the HDCP restrictions, but about finding the few that allow full signal to pass thru without restriction.
Michael
Sorry for misunderstanding – it’s all in the fine details …
I assumed you meant that it did strip HDCP, my bad.
Well, as Michael said: we’re here trying to find units that do strip HDCP …
In that light: your information is still very good!
Knowing that a particular model does NOT strip HDCP.
hans
I bought the Portta PET0102 new off Amazon from seller
JOBSTEVETTT on Dec 25th 2015 and it worked great to strip HDCP. I liked it enough I bought 2 more Jan 15, but this time via Amazon Warehouse deals, and they did not work. I order again from Amazon Jan 18, from JOBSTEVETTT and that one strips HDCP. It appears there are 2 different hardware versions of the Portta. I opened them both up and it appears that the one that DOES strip has 2 chips in it with silver aluminum heat sinks on both. The one that does strip only has 1 chip and no heat sink. So watch out and I would not buy any Warehouse deals for this item.
Dave
Awesome find Dave and thank you so much for sharing your research! Nice!
hans
Also, when plugged into my PC the Portta that DOES strip showed up named “Silicon Image”. The splitter that did NOT strip showed up as “LONTIUM”
Dave
How did you connect it to your PC?
hans
I bought this Splitter:
Revesun 1×2 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080p HDCP 2.2 4k2k Ultra High Definition Splitter HDMI Box DVI 1.0 3D
I can confirm that it removes both HDCP 1.4 and 2.2
TOM
Thanks Tom for confirming and posting a link! Much appreciated!
hans
thanks for info – my question is – I have a Satbox – which then I would connect to splitter – then just one HDMI out of splitter to capture box then out to TV
So I do not need two TV’s ??
john
Hi John,
if I understand you correctly; satbox -> splitter, one output of the splitter to capture device, and the other splitter output to TV. Yes this would work, and you would not need 2 TV’s. It would even work if you would connect only one device (TV or capture device).
hans
I have a Magnavox MDR515H 500GB HDD DVD-R. I purchased it to record the Steelers football games and it worked great on the old cable box. Now Comcast switched me with the new Xfinity X1 cable box and it won’t record . My Magnavox has a 500GB hard drive in it so I rather use that in case I want to burn a disk of the football game. Also if I ever return the X1 I will lose all my movies I saved on it’s hard drive. My problem is that my Magnavox HDD recorder DVD-R only has composite and a S-VHS input on it. It has HDMI and Component outputs but I don’t see how that could help. The S-VHS output was doing a good job on the old Cable box but the new X1 don’t have it. I can’t figure a way to get the video audio signal into my Magnavox unless there is some kind of HDMI out to S-VHS splitter. What a predicament this is. I paid almost $400.00 for my Magnavox recorder so I can record the game and now I can’t do it. Also would I need a view splitter and a Elgato to make this work?
mark
Hi Mark,
As for loosing your recording;
I doubt this will be a problem. Best way to test this is, if you want to be 100% comfortable with it, is to disconnect all comcast/xfinity stuff en see if you can still watch the recordings. They will most likely still work.
As for your new setup;
You’ll need a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, and a HDMI to S-Video or Composite converter.
I’d guess you’ll be set for less than $50 – if you find the right HDMI splitter of course.
You would not need an Elgato – that you’d only need if you want to record to a PC or laptop.
hans
Thanks for the reply.
I removed the cable box and screwed the coaxial cable wire onto my Magnavox recorder and it did record some channels but the picture was terrible. I’m guessing that any of the cable boxes make the picture better by changing the signal to HD or at least amplifying the signal. When I used to record the Steelers I would go on a HD channel using the cable box and the picture was awesome. I’m sure I wasn’t recording in HD since it was coming in through the S-Video port. I tried to get my old Comcast box back that had the S-Video on it and they said there not using them anymore. I can’t seem to find a HDMI to S-Video converter. You would think for $400.00 for that Magnavox recorder that it would have a HDMI or at least Component inputs on it!
Thanks.
mark
Hi Mark,
yeah, conversion back and forth will not produce a nice image quality.
As for HDMI to Composite, you can look at these at Amazon – I’d checkout the reviews though and you’d still need a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, otherwise the converter will most likely not work. The conversion will of course degrade the image quality.
It would be better to use something that can record HDMI, I have seen a few smaller devices at Amazon (link), but none of these would have the convenience of your current DVR. And on that note: recording with Composite or S-Video is rather outdated. Some setups do well with Component signal, but recording HDMI straight would be the best.
I personally do not record any shows or movies, I use it to get screenshots from devices (like settings menu etc). The Elgato Game Capture HD is what I use for that and with the right HDMI splitter I can capture/record movies or games.
hans
Hi Hans,
Thanks for writing back so soon.
I have to admit I am so confused. I am just going to buy a new media center that could take a 4TB hard drive and put all my movies on it. I found one on the link you provided me called the Happauge 1212. It has Component on it which I’m not crazy about but I think the cable companies only broadcast in 1080I or 720P anyway.
I’m not sure if I would need a splitter for Component. I doubt it.
I have also been reading about that app called Kodi. It looks cool but I guess I would need a different type of media box.
I don’t know if this is correct or not but does one box record games and television from a cable or xbox and another type of media box captures internet video.
Since you showed me that link I have been reading about these boxes all day long.
Anyway, Thanks for the help.
Mark
Mark
Mark,
All you have to do is check with the cable company in which you are interested and ask the maximum resolution you wish to view (record). That way there is no guessing.
But it goes further than that. Everything is continually changing, and higher resolutions are always coming about, so It is wise to be prepared instead of always having to buy yet another piece of equipment. 4K is here to stay, for example.
Sometimes we must have more than one combination of equipment and connectors to cover all the different arrangements of sources and targets. Simply make a list of what you need to do, and see the lowest number of components that will get you what you need to do.
Michael
Hi Mark,
Yeah, it is a confusing world when it comes to video, and the last few years things change faster than ever before it seems.
So, your goal is to record shows/games/movies that have been broadcasted.
Option 1 is to buy a DVR from the cable company, which is typically expensive and you cannot move the recordings to (for example) your computer.
Since more and more broadcasts are in HD (soon 4K I suspect), you’d want a device that can record from an HDMI source. Most of these however require that the signal is not encrypted (HDCP). I have seen that most do support 1080p (HD) and very few support 4K, but that will be a matter of time.
To remove HDCP you’d need one of these HDMI splitters that strip HDCP. I suspect that these splitters present themselves as a legit HDMI device, so HDCP can be removed. The HDMI signal with HDCP removed is then shared over the 2 or more HDMI-out connections. It seems more of these are surfacing that support 4K and all of them support 1080p (HD).
For recording, you can select a number of standalone devices (I’m sure TiVo has something to offer, and there are a bunch of cheap $100-range devices), or you can use a small computer with a game recording device (like the Elgato Game Capture). Most of these recorders do not support 4K yet …
For playback you can choose from quite a long list of applications, but Kodi is indeed one of the media center applications that I really like. For an application like Kodi, it doesn’t really matter what resolution you’re using.
I think, in the end, it comes down to what you’re really looking for and how easy it should be in use.
hans
Hey Guys,
I called Comcast and they said I am getting 1080I. I just don’t think I’m going to be happy with 1080i because I love a high quality picture. I have a 4K TV and I would love to see it at 4K. I asked Comcast If they are going to broadcast in 4K and they said there working on it but of course it’s going to be more money. I already pay $218 a month and I have been a long standing member as they put it, so why can’t they give me a break on the bill! I’ve been paying them since 1997. Now I’m sure it was at a lower price 20 years ago but still, if you think just in 2016 I paid them $218 X 12 months = $2616.00 x 20 YEARS = 52 thousand dollars. The reason I brought this up was to show you that I have got to cut the cord. The iceing on the cake is when I told them I don’t want there cable but I’ll keep their Internet. So they doubled the price on the internet service because I broke up the “bundle.” I don’t care for them no more. I have got to get a good HDMI Media box. I have to admit I don’t know if I’m able to get Kodi up and running. Why does Kodi come out with new versions so often? I must of watched every YouTube video and they all have a different way to install it. Well I am ready to buy a media box now but there are so many. I’ll pay up to $250.00 if you happen to come across one that is reliable. http://www.wirelesshack.org/best-hardware-boxes-to-run-kodi-media-center.html Number 1 of all boxes is the NVidia Shield TV Home Pro Media Server. It did get some bad reviews on YouTube though. Let me know what you think and once again I really appreciate it.
Thank You.
Mark
Mark
Hi Mark,
Oh I soooo understand the frustration with Comcast/XFinity – I’m a customer of theirs as well, and cannot say that I’m impressed.
They gave me a “new” receiver and it didn’t even have HDM, to then found out that the receiver was manufactured more than a decade ago.
The “upgrade” to HDMi would cost me $85/mo extra. And then they wonder why customers get pissed with them.
To cut the cord and not get screwed over by money hungry Comcast, I kept the lowest and cheapest TV bundle. I very rarely use it (twice so far in the past 8 months). With my cheapest bundle, Internet is still expensive (same speed I have here is app. 1/5 of the price in Europe).
The easiest way to get started with Kodi is by using an old PC – you can run Windows, MacOS or Linux, it doesn’t really matter which OS for KODI.
To keep it simple and very much optimized, is by using OpenElec or LibreElec (I prefer LibreElec!). Both include everything you need to run KODI, Operating System included. You follow their installation instructions (wipes your harddrive and install everything you need to quickly boot into Kodi).
Once you get familiar with Kodi, you can start looking for alternatives.
Cheap Android boxes, like these, are very affordable and work pretty good. The downside however is that it’s always quite a puzzle to find out which one is “best” and I can guarantee you that with future updates the might or might not work.
I have heard good and bad things about nVidia Shield as well – I’m still hestitant to get one of those.
At the moment I use on of the cheap Anrdoid boxes (K1 Plus), but the 5 years before that I used a small AMD based computer (size of a cigar box). That worked very well, but with HVEC/h.265 this little guy couldn’t keep up anymore.
Intel has a few NUC models are very suitable for this purpose by the way – but you’ll have to do some homework, so you won’t pick a model that can’t keep up with the new video standards (4K, HVEC/h.265). Typically these are more expensive than the cheap Android boxes (I bought my on Cyber Monday for $39).
If you want to sue only NetFlix and/or Amazon Prime, then consider getting something like the Amazon Fire TV (box or stick).
Hope this helps
hans
Hey Mark,
You are struggling with the issue that so many of us have. We need three things (in this order), Internet, telephone and television.
I solved my television needs by goingwith Dish. I have had their welcome package for as little as $17.85 per month. That is with a couple $5 discounts and as many channels as I need. Recently I lost one $5 discount, but that is still okay. Almost every month there are free movies, so one can record a bunch
for later use. One can add what they want, but so much is available on the ‘Net that it doesn’t make sense to buy more.
To get a good deal on 4K, check out https://www.dish.com/4k-programming/ and let me know and I’ll get you a $50 off coupon.
Telephone comes cheap via VOIP over the ‘Net; as little as ~$8 per month for all the services and coverage one could ever want.
That leaves the Internet. One must simply find the best deal available. That’s how that goes. The standard is that one should be able to get it for $1 per MB of speed and unlimited data. Just see how close you can get in your area.
I am in a very rural area and my experience was the local Frontier phone company and their associated satellite Internet at exorbitant cost. Poor service and high prices. Never go there.
So I bought a generic cellular antennae from SmoothTalker ($130 plus cables and connectors) and a Novatel router from Amazon for Verizon Wireless. I can plug my analog phones into the back of the router, transfer my number to Verizon and get unlimited data. Problem solved for now. Still not cheap, but acceptable in comparison, especially as it is now unlimited.
However, the local electrical cooperative is stringing fiber on their poles. Within thirty days or so, we will have 25MB up and down for $50 per month. Sometimes $2 per MB is the best there is.
This is the current state of things in the expensive USA. Never buy a bundle. Always shop around. Good luck with your search.
Michael
HI Hans, and Guys, Thanks for the great advice.
After I read your article I got my old computer out and tried to wipe it and reinstall Windows 10. The problem is It’s been awhile and I can’t remember my user password. I do remember the user pin but for some crazy reason it keeps asking me for my user password. I e-mailed Microsoft and they said, that was called a digital license for windows 10, that they were giving away for free. They also said if I wipe my computer it will ask me for my windows password when I try to reinstall Windows,and if I don’t know it I might not be able to redownload windows 10. They also said to use my pin now, and if it says I am “Verified” then it will work when I go to reinstall. Of course it didn’t work for me. It wanted my password instead of my users login pin. If Microsoft would of told me this “important detail” when I set up the computer I would of used a password. Now I might have to buy a key from them. https://www.groovypost.com/how-to-use-digital-license-to-manage-and-activate-windows-10-anniversary-update-licenses/
One other question, by using a computer instead of a Android box, do you need to have the computer on all the time? Or do you just put the computer next to your TV and turn them both on when you want to watch a movie from Kodi?
I hope these questions don’t sound stupid to you guys because I am a newbie, and I am also going through Chemo which makes it hard for me to think. I watch a lot of television because I stay in the house all day, but with all my medical bills I just can’t pay Comcast no more. I got a free cell phone for being disabled so all I need is Internet and cable. I kind of have the same problem as you Michael, If I drop my Comcast internet I won’t be able to find anything else where I live. I also thought about the dish and Direct TV but they want me to sign a contract and after the first year the price goes up. The bottom line is if Kodi is as good as they say then that is what I want. I’ll get this computer working or I’ll get a Android box. Hans, I don’t know if I read this right because it’s 5am but are you saying that Openelec and Libreelec are Operating systems which means I won’t need windows? I will definitely have to look into that tomorrow first thing because that would be awesome.
Thanks so much.
Mark
Mark
Mark,
Sorry about all your problems. While this is not a general computer forum, all I can say is download a free operating system like Fedora or Xubuntu, burn it to a DVD and boot off of it to give it a try. It will not do anything to your computer unless you decide, after trying it, to install it permanently. It won’t cost a penny, except for the blank DVD. Play with it for free and read a lot on the Internet.
I have been with Dish for many years and there is no reason that the price should go up unless you keep accepting that. Tell them you are disabled and need the lowest priced deal they have. Ask for the Welcome package. You should be able to get what I have. Speak with them as a friend and just lay out the facts of your existence, asking them what they can do for you.
If you have problems with the person you speak with, ask for a supervisor. If that doesn’t help, call the main number
(303-723-1000) and ask the operator for the executive resolutions department.
If you have problems with getting Internet, be sure to get someone to help you.
I also have the SafeLink phone, so I understand.
Michael
p.s. you can install LibreElec/OpenElec on a USB stick – it will have Kodi and such right away installed.
hans
Hi Mark,
well, to run Kodi, you wouldn’t even need to install a separate operating system like Windows.
So yes, when using LibreElec or OpenElec, they both come with an OS (Embedded Linux) – so both of these include everything you need; OS and Kodi. Nothing else needed, and highly optimized for Kodi use.
Your computer only needs to be on when watching a show or movie. So yes; turn the computer on when watching TV, turn it off when done
.
Since I use my Amazon Fire TV for Netflix and Amazon, I cannot say that I have tried Netflix/Amazon with Kodi – In the past Kodi relied on external libraries/software which just feels a little unstable/iffy. So that’s why I use a $39 Amazon Fire TV Stick for Netflix and Amazon. If you do not have HVEC or h.265 content, then you can even install KODI on the Amazon Fire TV stick.
Oh and never worry about “newbie” questions – we all have been and sometimes still are newbies ourselves
.
hans
I like the idea of a system on a flash drive. That can make some things easier and much more convenient for folks who are away from home a lot of the time. Its a great idea.
Michael
That’s how I started playing with OpenElec … and then I decided that I liked it and installed OpenElec on an SSD which makes it all go a little faster. These days I’d prefer LibreElec though – the LibreElec team (some are former members of the OpenElec team) seem more liberal when it comes to development and such.
hans
I will give you a retail license for Windows 10 Professional for free. It is a totally legit license so you don’t have to worry about any problems. You will need a way to get a Windows 10 installation disk or install Windows 7 or 8.1 then download Windows 10 and install it. I need your email address to send you the license key code.
Brian
Hi Brian,
Sorry I took so long to get back to you but I couldn’t avoid it.
That is extremely kind of you on offering me that license. I know it’s been awhile so you might not still have it, but I thought I’d ask.
My e-mail is generalmark@comcast.net but like I said I totally understand if you don’t have it anymore.
Thanks
mark
Thanks guys,
I’m sorry about not knowing what type of forum this was. I somehow just came across it and everbody was more knowledgeable and polite then all the others forums I’ve been on.
About using that old computer you mentioned does it have to meet any certain requirements to work with Kodi?
The computer I don’t use much is Windows 10 64 bit and has a AMD Phenom{tm} X6 1090T 3.2 Processor. My hard drives have 174GB free on drive C, 300GB free on drive F, 628GB free on drive J, I can always add another 2TB because I think video takes up a lot of space. What I am concerned about is it only has a ATI Radeon HD 4600 Series video card.
This might be a dumb question but do I still have to use a splitter to avoid HDCP? And if so where would I connect it? I don’t see a HDMI in on this computer.
Mark
Mark
No worries Mark!
Thank you for the nice complement
.
As for using an old computer; I guess it depends on the type of video’s you’re playing.
Now a simple computer can play pretty much anything with the exception of so called HVEC or h.265/x.265 encoded videos. Now those are not mainstream yet, but they appear more and more, and making those yourself has become easier as well. So in the long run you’d want a more powerful PC or a video chip/card that can do these codecs in hardware (hardware accelerated).
The computer spec you list will be more than sufficient for running Kodi. I think it might even pull off HVEC/h.265/x.265. The ATI will be sufficient for video’s, and the processor will possibly be capable of dealing with the heavy-duty codecs. All other codes (MP4, MPEG, etc) will work butter smooth on your setup. My old PC has an even lesser video chip and runs just fine.
As for disk space, you will not need much for Kodi + Embedded Linux. I’m guessing that it will take less than 4Gb.
If you want to store your movies on that computer, then you might want to keep that 2Tb drive in mind for the future.
You will not need a HDMI splitter to strip HDCP, unless you’re trying to playback protected content on Kodi – for example when you decide to use a plugin for Netflix or Amazon.
Hope this helps
hans
Mark,
I agree with Hans; you have plenty of computer power for your needs. Don’t worry about that.
I’m more concerned with you being able to take what you need with you when you go for treatment. What is available for you there?
Michael
Thanks Hans and Michael for your quick replies, I really appreciate it.
When I read your replies I am amazed how much you guys know in the world of computers and everything that goes with it.
I don’t know if it’s my medical condition or If I’m just getting older, but I can’t seem to retain information like you guys do. I didn’t even know about android media boxes and Kodi until I seen it on YouTube.
To be honest with you guys I watch so many movies because I’m sick ln bed and I hate having to get up and put in a DVD, and then half the time it won’t play because it’s dirty or scratched. That’s why a android box sounds good.
I am on my way to Allegheny Hospital in Pittsburgh, PA. this coming Monday but when I get home I am going to purchase something right away from Amazon.
But I do want to Thank You guys for all your advice and for being so patient.
Mark
mojoman
Hi Mark
Glad to hear that we could help you – and glad to hear that the setup is helpful for you.
As far as retaining info goes; well we all have our moments where we dig into a topic that interests us – and yes, we all start with limited info. So whenever you have a question; feel free to ask – you’re most welcome (as are others of course).
I wish you improvements on your medical condition and fun watching your movies.
hans
Confirming just purchased ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D and Avermedia EZRecorder 130 (ER130) works for me.
1) Connect source to input of VIEWHD
2) Connect output 1 to TV (mine is Sony Bravia KDL48W600B.
3) Power up ViewHD.
4) Plug in Dvr to output 2 of ViewHD.
5) Plug in output of dvr to another input on tv. (Optional to allow for viewing of menus and output of dvr)
Great thread. Thanks for the education!
AmesJainchill
Hi AmesJainchill!
Thanks for the confirmation, and glad to hear this article and it’s comments was helpful for you!
hans
Hi all
I tried to join this site and keeps will not go through.
Well I purchased 1 of theses ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2M. and I hope it will work for recording hdmi tv from Xfinity.
I plan to take hdmi cable from cable box then to the splitter then to this Premium Stand Alone Digital HDMI HD Componet Video DVR 1080p Recorder. Then to the samsung tv. I have seen some on this forum say the ViewHD will strip HDCP protection. Just looking to record some tv series about 5 episodes per recording. I bought this on the reading in this topic that it worked for others, and hope it will work for me.
Any input appreciated
Bob
Hi all
I just purchased a ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2M. and hope it will delete the HDCP from my xfinity cable box. I also purchased a Premium Stand Alone Digital HDMI HD Componet Video DVR 1080p Recorder to record some tv series maybe 3-5 episodes per recording. I read on this forum topic that some have also bought this Splitter and worked for them. I hope it will also work for me. I also have kodi tv with computer and android box but is a pain to keep updating and doing timeless searching for movies. Half the time movies are not supported on the server and you have to keep searching to find one that works. I have other resources of live tv and movies and was hoping the ViewHD will strip the HDCP form recording from the X1 comcast. I have not tried any of this as I’m still waithing for the items to arrive.
Any advice appreciated.
dss56
Hi Bob,
Sorry you’re running into issues signing up. I did send you an email (not sure if you replied yet).
I have not tested every single splitter, but the ViewHD looks very much like the one I’m using, and it does strip HDCP. But, and that’s how this article started, it’s a hit and miss with these splitters. So far I personally have not had any bad luck with them, but some users report issues (see the list on top, and posts in the comments).
As for the DVR you purchased; I have no experience with that particular model. I actually use an Elgato Game Capture HD – which allows me to record on my computer (Mac in my case, but obviously it works under Windows as well). Naturally, for your scenario, having a standalone seems more suiting. I’d assume, you’d use Kodi for playback, so in that case you might have to manually copy the recordings to your server.
hans
The hdmi recorder will allow a usb HD so I will hook up a 2TB and record my tv to a external HD. I was never one to record video to my computers as I have about 6 of them in various rooms. I like recording to an external drive then I can burn to dvd if I want.
I do have Kodi tv and also IPTV with 1100 tv channels, the iptv at times is unstable so I will have to catch it when it works and do my recordings. On iptv there should be no HDCP. I’m mostly going to record from my Xfinity cable box if possible (still waiting for equipment).
The external recorder is manual so no timer to do my recordings I will have to be close by to start and stop my recordings.
I was looking for this recorder that has built in time recordings IR blaster to change channels, internal and external HD, and will also playback so basically all in one.
AVerMedia EZRecorder, HD Video Capture High Definition HDMI Recorder, PVR, DVR,
I do have an Xfinity DVR but no way of getting the recorded movies or shows off it to burn to dvd if i wish.
So I have too much time on my hands as I’m retired and have always been into dvds, video, satellite tv, and electronics. Worked for the Government for 36 years building satellites and communication systems for the US defense so I have it in my blood, keeps me going toying around.
I’m glad I found this site to inform me of the HDCP problem.
When I burned dvd’s years ago same problem with copy protection I ended up buying a unit that stripped the c-protection from the dvd.s and made full copies with all menus and no loss.
Well I said my piece.
thanks Dss56/Bob
dss56
Hi Bob,
I don’t know what model DVR you have from Xfinity, but if it has HDMI output, then you could of course use it to record your shows, and after having recorded it, record it with the other recorder. This way it’s stored in the best quality, timer and channel are all set automatically.
Connect the HDMI output to one of the HDCP stripping splitters and record it afterwards with one of the recording devices you have in mind.
I agree; recording with a PC is not ideal. Then again; I don’t use the HDMI/HDCP stripping for that purpose anyway. I use it to capture screenshots for articles that I’m writing, and I see others using it with older projectors and such that do not handle HDCP.
It would most certainly work great for your purposes as well.
hans
I’m sure I know how to hook it all up. If any questions I’ll ask here.
I got the splitter today and am waiting for the dvr recorder. Should show up tomorrow some time and will get it all setup and give it a try.
Are you familiar with IPTV which I have but is not reliable at times. Gives you almost every cable channel out there from direct, dish and skyvu. all the tv you could ever want. If it was stable it would be great to record all the VOD channels and movie channels. It kinda freeze’s at times and you never know when that will happen. So my cable tv is the next best thing to record. Most torrents sites are drying up so gonna give it a go.
Kodi tv which I have is low on my list to use.
chow
Bob
Bob, it is interesting that you brought up IPTV (Internet Protocol Television). All that means, for those who don’t know, is that streaming television is transmitted thru the Internet. However, one must still have a subscription or an account with the providers, such as Dish.
If one has paid for the service, there should be no slow down or problem with the signal, unless one’s Internet service provider’s connection is poor. When that happens, check with your ISP to get help. If you’re like me, you demand that you get your money’s worth, and by so doing we all help keep the providers accountable.
Michael
I’m talking of a different iptv read here it $85.00 for the full year subscription and you use a MAG254 STB set it up which is easy its wifi connected or network cable. Here is the site if interested https://iptvzeta.com/ this forum has all the info you need. At times it works great and at times it freezes you never know when. There is a VOD with over 500 current and older movies. An like I said almost every channel dish, direct and Skyvue offer in this iptv mag 254. Lots of foreign channel stations. Also the MAG254 works as a media player if you hook an external drive loaded with movies. Should work world wide with any Internet connection.
If anyone needs info on NFPS IPTV please ask will be glad to help
Dss56/Bob
Bob
Hi Bob,
the IPTVZeta service sounds sketchy at best and does not seem to be legal (unlike the service Michael might be referring to).
I did notice that they have a forum, so if you run into buffering problems (freeze), you might want to checkout their forum. A quick Google search indicates that buffering problems are not uncommon with IPTVZeta and it seems you can select different servers – which might make the buffering issues reduce or even go away.
hans
Does anybody recommend the KDLinks A400 Android Media center which has a slot where you can slide a 8TB hard drive in it to hold all your media files.
And better yet the new ZidooX10 android box which can hold a 10TB hard drive and also has a HDMI input. I have hundreds of non HD DVD’S that I just want to rip them and put them on some media device.
Since the ZidooX10 has a HDMI input, It would be a bonus if I could record TV shows off my Xfinity 1, but the specs on the ZidooX10 say the HDMI in and out are HDCP 2.2 . What exactly does that mean, or should I say is that bad or good for me? I’ve been reading about how these devices have to comply with each other.
Will the HDMI splitter work on HDCP 2.2? I know the ZidooX10 is HDCP 2.2 and I’m pretty sure so is the Xfinity 1 cable box.
So what do you guys think?
Thanks.
mark
I have no experience with any of these media players. What I do know when it comes to Android boxes and media players: if you want to run LibreElec then please stick to the S905/S905x processor series (see also: link). Stay clear from other processor models unless the standard Android setup provided is to your liking ….
I personally would also look at the smaller QNAP NAS models that support HDMI – but it all depends on your budget of course.
As for HDMI 2.2 support; this will depend on the HDMI splitter. Some are only HDMI 1.3 or lower. Some appear to do HDMI 2.2 / 4K etc as well.
hans
[…] the more common approach seems to be a cheap “HDMI Splitter” where some of them “authenticate” on […]
Hi,
I want to confirm that I just bought
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDCP-HDMI-Splitter-Full-HD-1080p-Video-HDMI-Switch-Switcher-1X2-Split-1-in-2-Out/32573135541.html
(ordered 14 of July 2017, 2 weeks delivery).
The HDCP protection was removed. At first the protection was present, but after PC restart, protection was removed.
HDMI output “2” connected to PC (recording)
Thank you for the very useful article, it saves plenty of time :)
Tean
Thanks Tean for posting your findings!
The more confirmations we get, the easier it becomes for others to enjoy this “feature” as well
….
hans
Hans, what is the current recommendation for equipment to copy from a Dish DVR to a computer?
Michael
Hi Michael,
I would (at this moment) guess a Dish DVR/receiver, with HDMI output.
The HDMI output of the DVR goes to the HDMI in of one of these HDMI splitters that accidentally strip HDCP.
The HDMI output of the splitter: One to the TV and one to a video converter/grabber like the ones listed here.
I had great results with the Elgato Game Capture HD (this one), which doesn MP4/h264, but if you want to capture 1080p HD @ 60 fps content, then you might want to consider one of the HD60 models. I assume the newer and more capable HD60 models will do an even better job.
Maybe others have had good experience with other video capture solutions.
Hope this helps …
hans
Thank you so much, Hans. That is much appreciated.
Which splitter is your favorite?
Michael
You’re most welcome
I bought this one, but that has been a while ago. Also, it’s still listed as a $20 item, whereas this one is only $9 and yesterday someone confirmed it to be working (as have others). The one I have, lists a comment from 2017 that HDCP stripping still seems to work and Amazon is probably faster in shipping, but both ship for free, and for $9 not much can go wrong right?
hans
Hello all,
I’m desperate to find a solution for strip HDCP from my signal TVbox…
I have bought 4 splitters some months ago and since then I have no success bypassing HDCP when trying to connect my TVBox to video capture device.
My TV Box is a Horizon box – SMT-G7401XEN (UPC from Switzerland) and by capture device is an internal hauppauge colossus V1 (I use the software Arcsoft Showbiz that came with the video card).
When I connect the box directly to the video card or through one of the splitters I have always the same error. HDCP Issue. Sound but no video and the message HDCP error.
One of the problem is that I’m even unable to identify the HDCP version that my TVbox has… Am I doing something wrong on the connection? Step by step? I have read that the PC must be restarted after the connections done or that 2 outputs must be connected?
I even have bought a HDFury 3 to go to component output but the quality image is not suitable for me.
PS: some of the splitters that I have. None of them work with me.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61yZUqDBRDL._SL1500_.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41NBIu8sy-L._SY355_.jpg
Anyone had the same problem?
Thank you all for any solution to this problem.
david.dgc
Hi David,
sorry to hear you’re running into HDCP issues as well …
First thing I’d do is test the splitters with another video source, for example a BluRay player, or an Amazon FireTV, or a NetFlix device. Most of these devices will use HDCP when playing DRM protected content. At least this way you can eliminate if it’s a problem with the splitter, or a problem with your TV-box using an odd HDMI version.
Also worth trying, while you’re at it, is connecting a HDCP compatible device to for example the first (or the last) HDMI output of the splitter. So for example connect your TV to HDMI output 1, and your video capture device to HDMI output 2. Some have reported that this trick might be needed with some splitters.
Unfortunately, I have not tested the splitters you listed, I have this one (Amazon $20) and I did see confirmation that it works on this one (AliExpress $8). I would test one of those two, if you can wait for it to be shipped then I’d take the one from AliExpress. (shipping is free)
As far as I know, but I honestly have zero experience with it, the HDFury 3 might be able to strip HDPC, but you might need special firmware for that. In the comments one or more HDFury models have been discussed. Unfortunately, I do not have a HDFury.
hans
Thank you for you answer.I just ordered the 8dollars splitter to give it a try.I will try the trick with the Bluray player and with the apple TV. I will also check the trick connecting the TV on one ou the outputs.Thank you.
david.dgc
You’re welcome David!
If you’d like, let us know what your findings are – I’m sure others will be interested as well.
Oh and don’t forget to look for alternative firmware for the HDFury 2 …
hans
The one that I have is the HDFury 3 that outputs on VGA analog format. So it works because of the switch digital-analog format but the final result is not very pleasant. I lost i lot of definition, the colors are not has much vivid.
I just checked the previous posts: anyone confirm that the HDFury Integral with the firmware hack can actually strip HDCP? Which version of HDCP (as don’t know what HDCP version my TVBox supports…).
Thank you.
david.dgc
Haha, as I said: I have no experience with any of the HDFury products.
Maybe one of the other HDFury users can respond to this?
Converting HDMI to VGA and then digitize it again will indeed result in not so great video.
I use a Elgato Game Capture HD (this one), which works great. The newer models (HD60) will do an even better job I assume. It captures HDMI straight from HDMI.
p.s. I suspect that most TV boxes will do either HDMI 1.3 or 1.4. I’m not 100% sure of course, but I was not able to find any info stating it would be HDMI 2.0 either – which I would assume they would be “proud” of.
I did notice that the Dutch cable company Ziggo utilizes these boxes as well. But no specs.
hans
I just received the splitter from Aliexpress (the one at 8dollars) and it works! the splitter bypass the HDCP.
david.dgc
Hi David!
Thanks for posting the feedback that the $8 splitter from AliExpress works (this one for those interested).
The more confirmations we get the better – it will be useful for those considering buying one as well.
Thanks again and glad to hear it works for you as well!
hans
This posting is in regard to some earlier posts from Mark who had a MDR515H 500GB HDD DVD-R and was having some issues with recording from a cable box. I have a similar but newer model that has two tuners and it records excellently from over the air broadcasts. I don’t know Mark if you ever tried it with an antenna or live near enough to tv towers, but the built-in tuner is pretty sensitive. I have an outdoor antenna mounted low with an amplifier on it and it works well. By the way, there are no non-computer DVR/DVD-R units that I am aware of that have an HDMI or component input. But when you record from the internal tuner, you are getting HD quality recorded on the hard drive. When you dub to DVD, it will not be as good but still quite decent.
If you still have the unit, to record from a cable box or DirecTV with HDMI or component output that converts to S-Video which the Magnavox has for an input, you would need something like this: Atlona, AT-COMP500 Component to Composite / S-Video Down-Converter which is the one I use but the quality is not as good as using the internal tuner. By the way, to record from a DirecTV box when using this, I have to disconnect the HDMI output because of HDCP issues. When I hook up a splitter, it works fine but I find that the splitter throws off the auto sensing circuits which switch the HDMI inputs on my Sony tv so I just unplug the HDMI cable from the DirecTV box when I want to record from it. Most of the recording I do comes from the internal tuner for over the air stations in my area where all major networks are available as well as diginet channels. I hope this helps in some way.
Jerome
I may have made an error when comparing the MDR515H to the newer model I have which is the MDR867. From the outside, they look pretty much the same but some connectors have changed. After checking some specs and old web pages, it appears that the 515’s highest recording mode for the hard drive was in standard definition where the newer models such as the 856, 867, 868 can record to the hard drive in HD mode but convert to standard definition when dubbing to DVD’s. However, my old Panasonic DVD Recorder from about 2009 was only standard definition and looked pretty good using the best settings so your machine should give decent results from the over the air tuner but it appears that it does not record in high definition.
Jerome
Hi,
I have been reading the blog and comments, very good. I have purchased a device (not mentioned here, a 4-way splitter mentioned on another site) and have hooked it up to a projector and TV. I get a picture on both, but when removing and reinserting the inputs, I get the HDCP error message for a few seconds, then it kicks back in. This only happens on the TV. I purchased the device because I randomly get the error from my HD cable/satellite box when watching it on my projector. I mean it is random; can happen at any time or not at all. So my theory was if I have the projector and TV working at the same time, I may have solved the problem with the splitter. The only problem is, I’m not really sure if it has worked. Anybody have theory as to how to confirm/test that the HDCP has gone/been removed?
Thanks
SIMON
Hi Simon,
apologies for the late response.
I did my testing with an Amazon Fire TV, while playing one of their Amazon Prime movies or TV Shows. I would assume that any NetFlix or Amazon supporting device would do the same when playback of TV Shows or Movies is being done.
If this works consistently well with your projector then you should be fine.
If not, then either your projector is not supporting HDCP or had an implementation of HDCP that is either not entirely correct or maybe too old.
The trick we used here, using a HDMI splitter, works for one of two reason.
1) This chip used in the splitter is actually a “valid” HDCP chip that validates HDCP security and makes the playback device think all is well, and there for starts sending video.
2) The chip in the splitter picks the first output to identify itself to the playback device as being a valid HDCP device, and there for sends video to the other outputs.
hans
Hey everyone,
I’ve been trying to get my Fire TV Stick to work with my old plasma TV (Panasonic TH-42PZ8E) but all I get is a black screen. My TV’s manual says that it’s HDMI 1.3 and HDCP compliant but it just doesn’t want to display anything. Could this really still be an HDCP problem? I read that the HDCP on the Fire TV Stick is 1.4 and backwards compatible anyway. I’ve noticed that this problem also persists with the HDMI of my PC’s graphics card but if I use the DVI port of my graphic’s card (Dual link DVI-I) and connect it to the same HDMI port on my TV with a DVI-D (single link) to HDMI cable it works.
Another thing I’d like to mention is that beginning of this year I connected a Raspberry pi 3 (which apparently is HDMI 1.3a) and it also worked. At this point i’m out of ideas and completely desperate! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Andreas
Hi Andreas,
I’m not sure if this is a HDCP related issue or not. One thing I have noticed with older screens is that they (for example) only do 720 where as you device (Fire TV etc) might be trying to use 1080p. You could test that by connecting the Fire TV to a TV that does work, and force the resolution to 720p in the settings and then test it on your TV again.
hans
Hi Andreas,
In 2015, my 32″ Vizio lcd worked fine with both of my two Fire t.v.s(Gen 1). I upgraded to Gen 2, Fire t.v.s , plugged each up to the Vizio to be sure they were functioning. The result, no video no audio. Put the Gen 1’s back on line with the Vizio, they each worked no problem. Then it hit me to try out an hdmi spitter I had on hand between my pc and Vizio. The Gen 2’s worked just fine. Good audio and good video. Also, when using my Gen 1 Fire tv’s with a converter on my old analog Toshiba, I had no problem. Not the greatest picture but 3 my yr old granddaughter was happy. Tried using the Gen 2 Fire tv’s, poor picture, green in color, and good audio. What I did was to run the Fire tv through tha digital to analog converter into old vhs player “out” of the vhs player into the tv. Good picture and proper color[again]. I suspect that some type of “upgrade”/”improvement” was incorporated into the Fire t.v Gen 2. Oh by the way, it may take trying out different hdcp compliant splitters or hdmi hubs to determine what will work best on a particular tv. Sometimes you may find, as I did, that you may end up using different manufacturers hdmi splitters or hdmi hubs for different tv sets or monitors. Bad hdmi cables can throw a monkey wrench into the equation. Sometimes they can be defective from the onset. So always keep some backups handy to test out on a known working set/system. just to be sure you are good to go. Just my 2 cents:) Have a good day.
rick
Hi Rick,
Thanks for chiming in and sharing your findings!
It’s much appreciated.
hans
At all, I have a QBell QXL.216WA monitor with DVI output that does not support HDCP. I would use it with my playstation 3.
can you use the ps3 with this monitor if you purchase an HDMI Splitter?
Which HDMI Splitter do I recommend buying for ps3?
David
Hi David,
I’d recommend getting this one from Ali-Express. You’ll also need a HDMI to DVI converter (for example from Amazon).
This combo should work for your PS3.
Hope this helps,
Hans
hans
Thank you for answering.
The problem is that in the country where I am I can not find the HDMI Splitter equal to what you posted to me.
Could you help me to look for the right one?
There are dozens of Amazons in the same form as you posted to me, but they are different.
can you search here please? https://www.amazon.it/
David
Hi David,
the problem with these splitters, is that it’s always a gamble if they do or do not strip HDCP – so the best way to get one of these is by picking one that others reported as working. That’s why I recommend getting the one from AliExpress. They deliver to the entire world, are cheap, and most of the time do not charge shipping costs. I’ve used AliExpress in the Netherlands and in the US, so I assume they would deliver in Italy as well.
hans
I have tried to buy this HDMI Splitter that you have been advised, but unfortunately on Aliexpress is no longer available.
Could you tell me where to find one equal or similar, even at another site?
David
Hi David,
apologies for the late response. The listed splitter is indeed no longer available, thanks for reporting this.
I did see anew listing that looks very similar (at AliExpress as well) – I have not been able to test this model, so it will be a shot in the dark. I suspect though that it’s very likely that this one is the same and will very likely strip HDCP as well.
If you decide to get this one, and test it, then please let us know if it works … others would be very grateful.
hans
I bought this HDMI
Splitter, I tried in all ways, also changing the ps3 video resolution
settings, but my monitor screen remains black. The monitor receives a signal but the screen remains black.
What can be the reason?
David
Hi David,
this sounds very much like a HDCP issue – unless a too high resolution is send that your TV monitor can’t handle (ie. say your monitor can handle only up to 720p but the signal i 1080p or 4K). But you seem to have tested the resolution part.
As for the splitter, unfortunately, the link didn’t come through, or were you referring to the AliExpress one?
Either way; the splitter might not strip HDCP or, as we have seen with some of these splitters you might have to connect a “legit” TV to one of the HDMI outputs before connecting the monitor. Worth a try I guess to see if it is HDCP related. If the latter works, then we know for sure it’s a HDCP issue.
hans
I’ve done several tests to see if this HDMI Slipper works.
I tried connecting the ps3 with the HDMI Splitter to my TV that has
the HDMI ports, and it works, (if I connect the ps3 directly to the TV
with the HDMI cable works anyway, I just did a try to see if it worked).
Then I tried to connect a bluray player to my DVI monitor that does not support HDCP through an HDMI-DVI adapter, and it works.
So my monitor can receive an HDMI signal in the DVI port.
In the end I did another test, I tried to connect the bluray player through the HDMI Splitter to my DVI monitor. Result? The screen receives a signal (green LED) but remains black.
Another
strange thing I noticed, and that when I connect any device through the
HDMI Splitter to my DVI monitor, my monitor receives a signal, but it
is as if it was blocked, in fact, if I press the power off button, the
monitor it does not turn off, and if I press the monitor settings button, nothing happens and the settings window does not open.
This is very strange.
What can be the cause?
David
Hi David,
sounds like you did most of the important tests.
With your monitor I’m wondering if it has a hard time detecting the resolution (720p, 1080i, 1080p, etc) and refresh rate (ie. seems to freeze / get stuck). Maybe the splitter “forces” the video signal to a signal your monitor does not seem to recognize.
I am not familiar with your monitor, but if possible you could try to see if you can force to to DVI and/or a specific resolution (ie. 1080p). But not all monitors offer these kind of features. Since your monitor seems to freeze, I’d set this before connecting anything. Making sure it’s not set to “auto”. Of course … if your monitor has this option, and you might want to force the video source to a similar resolution (ie. like set the PS3 to 720p and the monitor to input DVI and 720p as well – if possible).
hans
Bought an AstroAI HDMI Splitter, connected to an EzRecorder.
It worked well for 6 recordings, then message popped up “Storage Devise not found”.
Maybe source cut me off? any idea why it failed?
Klaus Weichelt
Hi Klaus,
Sounds like an issue with EzRecorder. I’m not really familiar with EzRecorder, but if this is a separate device, could it be that it is overheating, or that the cable to your storage is not the best, or maybe your storage device is failing in general?
hans
Thanks so much for this article and all of the comments. I have two Sanyo projectors in my system which have component video connections. I have an HDMI to Component video converter which works perfectly with my Cox cable box as the source and gives 1080i. However, when I use a Blu Ray player as the source, I get only light grey wavy lines. I suspect this is due to copyright protection. After reading this article and many of the comments, I bought this from Amazon:
SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray
Unfortunately, the splitter that shipped is v1.4. This is only shown on the one page “manual” and not on the unit itself. I am returning to this for a refund. I am now going to try another splitter. Anyone want to share some current guidance on splitters that will work?
Blair
Hi Blair,
it has been a while that I had ordered mine. Seems the AliExpress models are the way to go (also super cheap).
Not sure how important HDMI 1.4 is, it seems these splitters use a chip that is actually designed for a TV and that’s why the HDCP stripping works.
Also note, incase you haven’t returned the splitters yet, that some splitters only work when one of the HDMI-out ports has been connected to a HDCP compliant TV (for example).
Not sure if others have recent experiences they’d like to share.
hans
In the Dutch version of this article, one of the users ordered this one from AliExpress.
Did not get a confirmation that it works though.
hans
Hi all
Sorry for jumping in on this few months later but I was reading this forum (and others!) for hours before I decided which splitter to buy to use with the Elgato HD60 to record PS3 game footage. I hope my experience at least helps one person :)
Being from the UK I purchased this from Amazon. There were a few more recent reviews saying it didn’t work but one at the top from 2014 basically confirms yes it does. I believe this one is the same for sale in the US.
Anyways it came today and the product in the UK link works perfectly! It states on the manual and in the description that it is HDMI 1.4a.
If anyone needs to troubleshoot here’s the equipment I’m using – Elgato HD60, 3x Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI cables, PS3 slim, TV Sony XE8596 series, iMac Retina 5K late 2015.
And step by step (for my own sanity, incase I ever lose my piece of paper of how it was all connected and set up
)
1. Connect splitter to power
2. Connect PS3 to HDMI IN on splitter
3. Connect HDMIOUT1 on splitter to TV
4. Connect HDMIOUT2 on splitter to Elgato HD60 HDMI IN.
5. Connect Elgato to PC via USB
6. Open Game Capture HD software (I used v2.9)
7. Change input device to ‘other’ in Game Capture HD settings
8. Turn on PS3 and you should be good to go!
***Note 1: HDMI OUT on Elgato is unused***
***Note 2: Ignore any light flashes on the Elgato. Test the capture by doing actual gameplay recording. Mines kept flashing red at me but I still managed to record.***
***Note 3: I’ve only managed to capture in 720p so far. Perfectly suitable for our purpose to upload to YouTube***
***Note 4: If you start recording on your home screen then load into a game HDCP briefly cut in just before the game is booted up. Recording will still continue***
***Note 5: If you’re having problems with capturing in game sound – check your audio settings on the PS3. Set it again to HDMI if you haven’t already***
Happy capturing!!
Emma
Hi Emma!
Thanks for sharing this and for the write up! Awesome!
hans
Awesome. If you’re going to record in 1080p could you let us know how it is please.
dominick_7
Hi all
I’ve tried to record a few games in 1080p on the PS3 with no luck. The max I can get is 720p. Reading around I believe it may be something to do with the native game resolution which prevents upscaling.
On the other hand, I tried Hitman on the PS4 and was able to capture 1080p with no issues.
Emma
Could this be a limitation of your PS3? I read (but I’m by no means an expert) somewhere that there are 720p and 1080p versions of the PS3.
hans
My PS3 is almost 10 years old (how did that happen so fast!!!) so that may be what’s happening, although when I play BluRays my TV confirms it is playing in 1080p.
Same here, I’m not an expert but going back to what I said before about game resolutions, it seems that very few games were actually released in native 1080p. From what I can see from forums online, most games were sold as 1080i or 720p although it’s hard to find a definitive list of what game is what resolution. It seems to be a bit of trial and error.
I was throwing in random games when I tried it before so the only game I can absolutely confirm that must be native 720p is Fallout 3. I’ll try keep adding them here as I come across them.
Emma
Hi Emma,
well, if it makes you feel any better; even the newer consoles (PS4/XBox One) do not do all games in 1080p.
in the end, I don’t think it matters much while playing a game (my XBox One X does 4K and I honestly cannot say that I enjoy a game more because of it hahah).
hans
Bought the HDFury Vertex before reading the need for hacked firmware to strip hdcp completely. I’m starting to wish I went cheaper since the hacked firmware for the Integral is easily found (e.g. this forum). Where can I find the hacked Vertex firmware or where should I ask?
As of now, I have to use the wsky splitter which limits quality and therefore less desirable than a working HDfury. Also requires a HDCP enabled device as one of the outputs. The unhacked HDFury Vertex just let’s me reduce hdcp 2.2 to 1.4 which doesn’t really help unless I missed something.
In case the splitter used wasn’t already posted…
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071LPLGG9/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adam
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Ultra-1080P-4k-1-in-2-out-HDCP-Stripper-1×2-HDMI-Splitter-Power-Signal-Amplifier/282713765532
Tested this one from German Ebay, which is actually stripping HDCP (when the target display does not speak HDCP – otherwise, the splitter does not strip HDCP). Maybe similar-looking devices from other sources do that too. (The one review states, it is not a HDCP stripper, but update is pending and should be visible soon.)
notmyname
Thanks NoMyName for posting the tip.
For regular 1080p this should work just fine. Interesting to see that it will not strip HDCP when the receiving device does support HDCP.
hans
Not stripping HDCP for me :( . LED first lights up when plugging in my non-hdcp device, but after a few seconds goes out.
It’s the ViewHD type of box, this time called “easyday”. It’s the plastic box version with the “HDMI v1.4”, v1.1
Drew
Hi Drew,
sorry to hear you ran into one of the splitters that does NOT strip HDCP …
It looks like the HDMI 1.3 versions are the ones that strip HDCP. It looks like HDMI 1.4 (and newer) splitters fail to strip HDCP.
hans
OP here – just opened my (working/stripping) device bought at exactly this link to have a look inside (it’s just glued without noses)
outside its labeled:
“easyday”
“1X2”
“4Kx2K & V1.4”
“HDMI Splitter”
Inside the PCB is labeled
“E6554A6661”
“HDMI V1.4 1X2 V1.1”
“20170321”
“QCW”
The main IC is labeled
“iTE”
“IT6661FN”
“1736-BXA”
“AH08UA”
From the second IC with 32 pins (square, pins on four sides) the marking has been mechanically removed.
notmyname
That’s good info!
So you have a working HDMI 1.4 HDCP stripper that supports 4K … hmm interesting!
I may get me one of those!
hans
Hi all
I just want to let you all know my findings with the View HD splitter. I was looking for another one so here goes.
Bought first off Amazon v1.3 and worked for the HDCP last May 2017
I bought second off ebay advertised it was 1.3 and would do HDCP. January 2018
Well the second did not work so I took the covers off both only 1 screw and the first 1 bought had 2 chips on board. v1.3
Second splitter had 1 chip on board. v1.4
First one on the pc board said v1.3 and the second said 1.4 on the pc board even though advertised as 1.3 and did not work.
I bought another brand cant open as the plastic box has no screws advertised as 1.3v and did not work also.
So now I just bought the same View HD from Amazons as the first time advertised as 1.3v and does HDCP suppose to get in a few days and will report back if it works.
Seems version 1.3 will work but people are selling version 1.4 as version 1.3v.
Well hope this helps if you can open the splitter box and see if you have 1 chip or the 2 chip splitter and look on the pc board for the version
Bob
Hi Bob,
that sounds like my experience as well. Mostly: the not so clear definition in the advertisements that mislead buyers.
Please let us know your findings on the new splitter.
hans
Hi All
Since I got a new 4K tv & switched my Panasonic TC-P50G20 Plasma into the spare room, replacing the old tube TV, I’ve got an HDCP error that doesn’t make any sense to me when I try to record programs on my Pioneer DVR-450 DVD recorder. My Scientific Atlanta Explorer 4250HD cable box is hooked to the TV via HDMI, and I always get a picture. I had the DVR-450 hooked to the TV by HDMI, but that sometimes gave me the HDCP error & sometimes didn’t, so I tried switching to the Component connection so I didn’t miss my shows in the meantime, but that didn’t do it either & here’s where it gets confusing. When I have the TV on, I always get a picture through the component & am able to record fine. If I turn the TV off during the program, I immediately get the HDCP error, which will immediately go away if I turn the TV back on. Otherwise, it’s totally pot luck. If I have the TV off & just have the regular connection setup of box to TV, s-video from box to dvd recorder, & component from dvd recorder to tv, I might get a picture for all, part, or none of the show. Same thing if I pull the component wires out of the dvd recorder & just have the box hooked up to the tv & dvd recorder. I guess the 1 thing I still need to try is pulling the hdmi from the box to the tv, but I’m hoping someone has a suggestion on how to solve this without having to reassemble my setup twice a day! I’m not sure whether sampling w/ splitters suggested here & getting an old hdmi cable is the obvious solution or something else is going on? Many thanks for the advice.
Mike
Hi Mike,
sounds like your Panasonic is not giving the right HDCP “answer”. When you TV is ON, your TV will provide the correct reply to the HDCP request. That’s why it works when the TV is on, but not when it’s off.
I am guessing that HDCP content does not appreciate you trying to record it.
Since you’re working with a 4K setup, using the HDMI splitter trick may or may not work.
Most of the splitters with the HDCP stripping effect support HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 at best.
However, if your content is 1080p or less, then it should work – since your panasonic is most likely not going beyond 480p (DVD), this should work. Depending on the splitter of course. Some pretend to be a 1080p TV, others “borrow” the HDCP reply from a connected HDCP compliant device.
hans
1 thing I don’t understand is why is it even asking the tv if I don’t have any output wires from the dvd recorder to the tv? In any case, I’m not using 4k setup in the room that I’m recording in. The Panasonic Plasma is just the old 1080p. The cable box is 1080i, and the DVD recorder is obviously 480p. The HDMI wires are 1.4, so preferably if there’s a splitter that 1.4 would work w/ that would save me from having to get a different cable for the trial of the splitter, though the cables are cheap, so whatever.
Mike
Hi Mike,
as for asking the TV for a HDCP code; that’s how it “usually” works. The video source (Blu-Ray for example) that is connected to the TV will ask the TV for a code. If the right code is returned, encryption will be removed (as far as I understand) and the “clean” data will be send to the TV.
Now if we use another device (or a TV that is not HDCP capable), then with certain content you will get the message that there is an error and you will see nothing. The data remains encrypted and your “receiving” device will not be able to handle this.
This is where the splitters come in; some of the cheap models will provide the required code, even though they are not a TV or another “legit” device. This will then result in unencrypted data, which the receiving device will then be able to handle.
So far I have seen this with older flatscreen TV’s and projectors. I myself mainly use it to make crispy clear screenshot for my articles here.
In your setup, HDMI 1.3 will work just fine. Since your devices are 1080p or less, I don’t think HDMI 1.4 will add value.
hans
Hi. I dont know if this have already been answered, but I could not locate it. Tried to search, but found nothing in the tread.
So : If the Elgato game capture (or similar or others) is placed between the tv-tuner, the splitter, and the pc – can it capture an EXACT COPY of the tv program ?
The reason for my answer is that I ALREADY have a setup where my tv tuner card gets read throgh software, and delivers a stream that is an EXCACT copy of the tv program I want to record.
So, MY copy is the same as the one the tv channel them selv have. This works ok, but about 20-30 % of the recordings have dropped frames in the stream and other problems.
So, can I use the Elgato/hdmi splitter instead, to get the same copy ?
I mainly use it to record old tv series that is not available on dvd/or subtitled in my country.
Dan
Hi Dan,
I’ve used my Elgato in the setup video source -> splitter -> Elgato.
It captures everything in a great quality and I have not seen any frames being dropped.
When it comes to the question if it’s an EXACT copy; Yes it does make an exact copy especially when using old TV shows and such. The subtitles (when enabled) will be copied as well, as a fixed part of the video – so you cannot enable/disable the subtitles in the copy.
Hope this helps
hans
Here’s another Amazon.com splitter that stripped HDCP for me:
Hdmi Splitter,Ddida Powered Full HD 1080P V1.4 Support 4K/2K and 3D Resolution-1 Source To 2Displays
Adam
Thanks Adam!
Great find!
hans
Hans, it appears that capture is starting to get pretty ridiculous in the requirements category. Check out the article here:
New Capture Card Records 4K 60fpsVideo, If Your PC Can Handle It
Michael
Hi Michael,
yeah … things spin out of control pretty fast haha.
I remember DVD’s being “huge” … but 4K at 60fps … man, I’d start worrying about disk space hahah …
Thanks for posting the link: interesting read!
hans
Hi everyone
I’m stuck!
No idea what has happened….basically, I used to be able to connect my Hauppauge HDPVR to my Sky HD box (DRX890) I used a HD Converter box, and took the cable from Sky box which went into the HD Box. I used to get a signal but no longer see anything just black (no signal) I used the Component cables that came with the HDPVR …Can anyone tell me if I have connected it up right ? I’m guessing I will need to get a splitter ?
Chris
Hi Chris,
it sounds like your Sky HD Box might have gotten an update that now suddenly requires HDCP or any other kind of DRM protection? I’m just guessing here.
I used one of those TV-over-IP boxes at my home for a while. This worked great until Comcast decided that a certain kind of DRM was need on these boxes which made them work only with 1 or 2 channels but all other channels would suddenly no longer work ….
Using a splitter that strips HDCP will most like resolve this for your setup.
hans
I think you may be right Hans/ I’m waiting on 2 splitters right now. I will post and let you know how it goes. Great forum BTW. Please keep it alive. Thanks
Chris
Thanks Chris!
Please keep us posted on your progress, I’d be happy to help where I can …
hans
Hi. I was hoping someone on here could help me out. I have a Sony 1080i television I purchases in 2004 and is still going strong. It only has component and composite inputs. When I purchased the Xbox One X and PS4 Pro to play on them, not having any hdmi port, I just purchased a hdmi to component splitter at Radio Shack. It worked for the Xbox 360 up to the PS4 Pro. But recently when I purchased a Nvidia Shield Pro, I only got audio. I recognized the problem was the Shield couldn’t output 1080i. No big deal, I thought. Then I was told it was illegal to do what I’m trying to do. I just want to make use of a device I bought on the television I like. Can someone help me with a device that could convert/down scale to 1080i AND allows me to not worry about the HDCP (which I literally JUST found out about –my wife and I haven’t had televison, since 2004 and haven’t adopted anything above DVDS for movies, so I realize I seem a little like I’ve been living in a cave.)
Any help is TRULY appreciated,
-B
Brett Barkley
Hi Brett,
actually, you’re not living in a cave
Personally I think you should be able to use your old TV, even though it’s from 2004. Why throw something away, just because some industry goofballs decided to implement an incompatible new “standard”? I wouldn’t! And here the world is concerned about our CO2 footprint while the industry makes us throw away perfectly good equipment? Weird.
I thought the Shield had an option to force the resolution to (for example) 720p. But reading the nVidia forums tells me that this is no longer the case and that the Shield solely relies on the info the HDMI connector provides (ie. based on info provided by a HDMI connector of a TV, which is not available in your case). Bummer.
You could try one of the HDMI splitters listed here.
Legality wise, I wouldn’t think this would be a major crime since you’re just using it to watch content on your existing TV. But I’m not an attorney. I personally use it so I can make screenshots for my articles. Naturally, it would be wrong to use this to illegaly copy and distribute movies – but that’s not your goal.
HDCP may be a reason why you’re not seeing anything. The fact that audio still comes through is throwing me off a little. I thought HDCP would block that as well?
It may also be that your HDMI to component convert simply can’t handle 1080p (or higher), or does not provide the right HDMI info so the wrong resolution is provided, and therefor produces a black screen. Does the Shield indicate what resolution it’s using?
If you’d use a HDMI 1.3 splitter (this probably will not work with a HDMI 1.4!), which strips HDCP, you may get lucky. It’s not a major investment, but it can be tricky to pick the right one.
You could also look for another HDMI to Component converter – these days the can be had relatively cheap (for component this one $23 at Amazon, or for composite this one for $10 at Amazon – I have not tested either of them).
(p.s. I’d love to see this fixed and/or hear how it’s fixed (besides the “buy a new TV” solution
)
hans
Thank you very much for your helpful comments. Last year, in order to keep it from the trash heap, I just soldered a new chip in this television…it was a great learning experience with our two sons on electronics and safety and just being able to say, “I’m not ready to throw a perfectly good television away just yet.”. I’m hoping this set has a lot more life left in it. :) I had thought I might not get a response here and went ahead and ordered this unit from Amazon today. Sorry about that. I wish I’d waited and tried some of the suggestions I got here.
However, I will definitely write back to update anyone interested on my findings. I truly thank you for the responses and the forum for discussion.
-B
Brett Barkley
“The fact that audio still comes through is throwing me off a little. I thought HDCP would block that as well?”
Now that you say it… I wrote here some months ago about my experiences with a Extron HDMI Crossbar, and wondered back then, why I heard audio but not saw any video content – thought it was a special behaviour of the Crossbar.
notmyname
It’s been quite a while that I purchased a HDCP stripping HDMI splitter.
I just looked at Amazon and this model seems to still work and strip HDCP (per the comments – around $20).
hans
In the event the one I just ordered doesn’t work, I’ll try this one next.
Thank you!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hello Brett!
First, you will need an HDMI splitter that can defeat the HDCP protocol. As far as scaling, in my professional video work, I use the DAC-70 for up/down/cross conversions. It works like a champ and has been highly reliable. It is $499 US dollars and I have not seen it anywhere else for less. Amazon has it here:
https://www.amazon.com/Datavideo-DAC-70-Down-Cross-Converter/dp/B00I4ERRO6
trev
One other note to Everyone:
Yes it is getting more difficult to find HDMI splitters that actually will strip HDCP. As someone who has bought multiple splitters only to find some worked and most did not, my greatest find was the HDMI Cloner Box for $99 on Amazon. So not only will it strip HDCP and pass the signal to whatever TV you may be watching, but it gives you the ability to record that signal.
Just something to consider.
trev
Thanks! Is this the unit? If so, I’ll add it to the list.
I’ve been stymied at every point with trying to get this Shield to work. I just want to make use of it.
Thank you!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hello Brett,
Yes, That is the one. I have have three of them now, 2 for both of our home entertainment systems and one I travel with since a lot of the hotels I stay at have hdmi into their TVs.
trev
can this be used with an encrypted hdmi signal from a cable box to a vcr ? SD
Stephen
The Cloner Box allows to record the video signal from you box, straight to an USB stick or USB drive. The recording will be an MP4 file.
I have tested one a while back and it did strip DHCP and the recording is of a good quality.
Playback from this device will be without DHCP, so in your setup (based on your other post), you could connect a HDMI to analog converter straight to the Cloner Box. However, since you’re already recording digitally, you may no longer need a VCR and the quality will be much better than what a VCR would record.
Happy New Year
hans
p.s. the pass through HDMI may be DHCP stripped as well – I haven’t used it in a while.
hans
I’ve seen posts about the cloner box but am not sure if it will do what is necessary. I need to record on vcrs. That means digital to analog and hdmi to standard converters. If a cloner box is put into this system what is the sequence of devices ? the final part is vcr to TV but where does the cloner box fit in if I need to have the converted/striped signal going into the vcrs ? Does the cloner box allow for this ? Would the sequence be cable box, cloner box, then the other two converters into the cable box. Basically I’m asking is the cloner box compatible with a set up that feeds into vcrs ? SD
Stephen DeMay
I haven’t tested a setup like yours, but (assuming Cloner Box will strip DHCP), I’d think this setup:
Sat/Cable Box HDMI -> Cloner Box -> HDMI to Analog -> VCR -> TV
If however your TV uses HDMI then you may want to use a different approach.
Sat/Cabel Box HDMI -> HDMI Splitter Input (with HDCP stripping) …
and then
HDMI Splitter output 1 -> TV HDMI input
HDMI Splitter output 2 -> HDMI to Analog -> VCR -> TV analog input
For your purposes the Cloner Box would only make sense (considering the price) if you want to use it for recording on the Cloner Box instead of your VCR – but that’s just my view on things….
hans
Thanks for the suggestion. Honestly, this is getting to threshold where my wife will proclaim, “It would be better to just buy a new television.” I’m kind of trying to fly under the radar enough to avoid that.
I had considered a HD Fury 3, I think it was, which is about half of this price, I think. But I thank you. If I can’t get anything else to work AND can keep it from the wife, I may just have to consider this.
-B
Brett Barkley
You’re welcome Brett,
As I recall the HD Fury is indeed a great device, just a little expensive maybe for the average purpose (see this list at Amazon). It’s getting dangerously close to just buying another TV (see this list of TV’s where a 40″ TV runs $199).
It is a shame that the industry pushes consumers to toss perfectly good working equipment in the interest of DRM or “progress”.
I did notice that quite a few splitters listed pretty cheap at AliExpress (like this one – users in the Dutch version of article confirm it to strip HDCP).
Hope you get things to work
hans
Thank you, Hans!
I got this unit to work! I’m happy happy for the help and assistance on here.
I don’t know if you’ll be able to add the above unit to your list of HDCP strippers, though. In all my research, I came across a post that suggested pre-digital analog televisions (as mine is, made in 2004) don’t even register with HDCP. The current HDMI to component adapter I’m using is working because of this fact alone. So I believe I was very concerned about something that doesn’t even affect me at this point. Truthfully, it hadn’t even been on my radar, until the first guy I spoke with tried to tell me I was doing something illegal.
So, again, THANK YOU to everyone who helped. I’d love to continue browsing this site. One day, maybe sooner than later, I’d like to get a new television. Though I love this set, it’s getting tough to read all the tiny words on the 34″ screen.
Thanks again!
-B
Brett Barkley
Hi Brett!
Awesome!! I’m glad to hear that yo can still use your TV and found a working solution! Thank you for taking the time tompost the link!
hans
p.s. I added the link to the article! Thanks again!
hans
I have had this setup ever since the Xbox One X came out and today it decided to be an A-hole. I turn on the system and I get a HDCP 2.2 error. Xbox One X into Onkyo TX-NR575 to NEC NP4001 via HDMI and then into the DVI port with a small HDMI to DVI adapter. I have NEVER had an issue.
What solved it was using my HDMI splitter BEFORE going into the Onkyo. Xbox One X > Splitter > Onkyo > Projector. I originally bought the splitter to send out to the TV upstairs and projector downstairs. Now it’s protecting me from HDCP idiocy.
HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, NewBEP 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (One Input To Two Outputs)
Chris
Awesome Chris!
Thanks for posting the link of a working splitter!
hans
Hi,
if the content source output hdmi support HDCP 2.2 the plitter must support it again?
Can I use a splitter with support for HDCP 1.3 with a source with support for HDCP 2.2?
I have try it buy 95% of times I see a black screen in other 5%% of times it works.
regards
Martin
Hi Martin,
If you want HDCP 2.2 content to work all the time, you may indeed need a splitter that specifically supports this. I do not know how the implementation for backwards compatibility is. I’d think HDCP 2.2 content should be displayable on devices that support older HDCP versions, but I have seen some issues between the different HDMI versions as well (for example my home theatre system supports HDMI 1.3 but not the newer versions and occasionally that comes with unpleasant surprises).
hans
Hi
I don’t know if this exists…….
I want to feed from a couple of 4K UHD devices (not at the same time so only need one input)
I want to feed out simultaneously to some 4K Monitors (2 minimum 4 maximum) for display purposes, however I also want to be able to get the Audio as an optical/toslink signal to feed into an amp.
I want the output maintained as a 4K UHD signal, not downscaled to 1080p.
Does a single box exist that splits the HDMI and strips the HDCP and also outputs the audio as an optical output?
Thanks
Tess
Hi Tess,
are you referring to a device like this one at Amazon: “Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, Full 3D” ?
I have not tested this device, just trying to get a sense of what you’re looking for
hans
Hi Hans
Thanks for the reply, but that appears to be a 4 in 1 out unless I’ve missed something?
I want a 1 in 4 out……thus the need to also strip if I can as I understand that outputting to multiple devices isn’t supported under HDCP 2.2?
Tess
tessy
The Speaka come close to it, but it is only 2K instead of 4K (mentioned on the NL site).
Henkie60
Hi Tess,
apologies for misunderstanding.
So what I’d try is this setup:
1) From your 4K Source -> a regular HDMI splitter that strips HDCP (like mentioned a few times in this article, like this one)
2) From the HDMI splitter that strips HDCP -> a 1-in and 4-out HDMI splitter
This way you drop the HDCP signal in the first splitter and then repeat the HDMI signal in the second splitter over 4 HMDI outputs. At Amazon I found this device that might do the second step: “Movcle HDMI Splitter 1 in 4 out Full Ultra HD 1080P 4K/2K 1X4 Port Box Hub with US Adapter v1.4 Powered Certified for 3D Support“.
It would have been ideal if you’d needed only one HDMI repeater (1 in, 4 out), but I have not found one that strips HDCP let alone HDCP 2.2. So stripping the signal before it gets to the repeater would be the way to go.
hans
Hi. Probably a silly question: If I buy a DVR to replace Spectrum’s DVR, am I going to have an HDCP problem? I don’t mind paying Spectrum for content; I’m just tired of the monthly receiver/DVR rental. Second question: would my purchased DVR function also as a receiver (and might I have the same HDCP problem there, as well? Thanks for any guidance.
Bill Edwards
Michael is right! (thanks for chiming in Michael)
One note though: in the US cable providers must offer so called CableCARDs. These card, if the equipment you have is suitable for that, will work with your choice of equipment – for example a receiver you purchased from a neighbor or from eBay. See for example the Comcast Explanation.
I have used one once through Comcast, you’d still pay a $5/mo fee to use it.
I did something similar in the past with DirecTV satellite receivers. Again; your device needs to be compatible to the provider and the card they provide. At the time I purchased a couple used Tivo’s for that purpose from eBay.
As for your second question; If the DVR works with your provider and/or the card your provider provides, then yes you’d still have a HDCP issue, otherwise the provider would never approve of your DVR. You may be able to record on the DVR though, but the output would still have HDCP.
hans
Bill, your problem is similar to many of ours. We want the service without the equipment costs. Sadly, the equipment must be recognized by the service provider in their way of doing things; by key card, internal code, or whatever. But it is not like a cell phone where one gets a new sim card.
I will assume that you meant to buy a used vendor-supplied unit from somewhere? What if it is part of an account that was turned off for non-payment? They won’t accept it. What if it were old technology that no longer fits? They won’t accept it or new features won’t work with it. Those would be some of my personal worries. HDCP would be the last of my concerns.
I wish you the best in your search.
Michael
I’m looking for the latest and best working 1×2 HDMI splitter that will remove the HDCP warning. I have the viewHD splitter 1.3v and works well.
It has 3 chips inside. I bought another one on amazon same type and will not work. It has 2 chips inside and pc board says 1.4v.
So if anyone out here has recently bought a hdmi HDCP splitter that works it would be great if you could send the info to me or post here.
I have been following this post and most HDCP post info are old and also seems most splitters now sold say they will do HDCP but do not.
thanks dss56
Dss56
Hi DSS56,
I think your second splitter is actually a HDMI 1.4 device.
The most recent model reported to be working (by Chris) is this one at Amazon.
Since I have not tested this one myself, I cannot confirm this to be 100% correct of course.
Then again; Amazon allows you to return the item …
hans
For that particular model, at least one customer reports:
Very small and (as expected) ‘forgets’ to relay the HDCP info. Have fun using it to record protected content.
Suggesting it strips HDCP. However … not HDCP 2.x …
hans
I have just tried (july 24th 2018) ViewHD 2 Port 1×2… and doesn’t work anymore! I had an old one and had worked fine during years but now it doesn’t work anymore. HDCP blocking is working and I can’t record PS3 screens anymore. Anyone can help me?
Tec
tecnicator
Hi Tecnicator!
Well that sucks …
I can’t guarantee anything, but Chris report this one to work.
(I assume your old one died?)
hans
Hi,
I can also confirm that this splitter still successfully strips hdcp 2.2 (thanks to Chris and Hans for suggesting it).
I have a 2007 samsung plasma tv(without any version of hdcp) and yamaha rx-v385 with hdcp 2.2.
Initially it gave a distorted picture with green and black strips, but after few minutes playing with it, it started to work fine. Did few tests by rebooting rx/tv/xbox/splitter/etc, and so far it powers up without any distortions.
Just a heads up, this splitter looks and feels as cheap as its price.
P.S. I previously tried 2 models from amazon, Sewell hdmi splitter and ViewHD 2.2 to 1.4 converter, and none of them pass through video. Sewell gave black screen with audio, and ViewHD gave green screen with audio.
Eugene
Hi Eugene!
Thanks for posting confirmation on the “NewBEP HDMI Splitter 1 x 2, 1 Input 2 Output HDMI Amplifier Switcher Box Hub Support 4KX2K 3D 2160p 1080p (HDMI Splitter 1 x 2)” offered through Amazon. The more confirmation we get, the better
hans
Hi,
looking for a good hdmi splitter that can successfully strip HDCP protection for Sky Go UK iPhone/iPad app so that I can connect to a TV without needing extra box. There are some strippers that I’ve heard work with Sky’s UK boxes, but there is no mention about this for devices like iPad or iPhone.
I keep researching this as it’s important to get it right.
Any help or suggestions would be appriated.
Thanks,
Max Pell
Max Pell
Hi Max,
I am not aware of any devices offering HDCP stripping with iPad/iPhone connected TV, unless you use a Lightning to HDMI cable (some listed here). In that case a HDMI splitter (mentioned in this article and the comments) may not be needed.
Alternatively AirPlay may work, but you’d need a receiving device on the end of your TV, for example an AppleTV device.
With both options; there is no guarantee the Sky Go app supports it.
hans
Hi,
Yeah they actively try to prevent it. Tried to airplay but only sound and a message for HDCP on the screen, not only that but the iphone to hdmi adapters alone don’t help since nemerous people have stated the same thing happens, I thought if I could get a HDCP bypass stripper device this would prevent the message. After some research I’ve found one where one woman says she got her spliter working with Sky Go so am looking at that as an option.
Max Pell
I did some more snooping around, now that I was thinking of the same thing for Netflix …
I noticed that NetFlix allows this – if you use the correct cable. See this article on the Netflix website.
When looking at cheap converters on Amazon, pretty much all of them state that Netflix and such will NOT work.
Also, I noticed on the Apple website that it’s actually the Sky Go app that is preventing an adapter to work (reference) – so a splitter wouldn’t help. The video is simply not fed to the adapter.
Strange though that sound IS coming through? Suggesting it may be fixable with a stripper.
I did see that Sky Go UK may be available for the AppleTV – if you have an AppleTV (link, you’ll have to scroll down to see the confirmations).
From what I have found so far; Sky is not making it easy …
hans
Hi,
Oh no! Well I guess that’s the end of that. I did think about building a portable box where a web cam would capture the output of the device and then trasmit it to TV (not sure if that would look good haha), would need some way of doing this with the audio too. I guess it’s a lost cause
Max Pell
Using a webcam would indeed look really bad
…
I guess you’re stuck with getting one or the other box – I did see there is an Android app for Sky Go, but I’m not sure what Android boxes/Devices may support HDMI output.
hans
I know this is an old thread but I do have IPTV with a mag box. I record in real time.
I use a hdmi splitter 1 in 2 out, 1 out to tv and the other out to a HD recorder Avermedia 310 recorder. Records great.
I get all the Sky Channels and can record with no problem but you need a hdmi splitter to eliminate the hdcp.
Only problem is IPTV and if KODI are not reliable, as the picture could
freeze stop all kinds of things and ruins the recording. If it does
record completely its great quality in HD using the Avermedia. No time
settings you have to be there to start and stop the recording.
Here in the states we need a splitter that will eliminate HDCP.
If you dont use it will put a logo on screen and not allow you to record.
Lots of people with sony game consoles use this to record them playing the games and need the HDCP splitter.
What is HDCP? HDCP
stands for High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a
copy protection scheme to eliminate the possibility of
intercepting digital data midstream between the source to
the display. The format designed by Intel and licensed by
Digital Content Protection, LLC using an authentication
and key exchange procedure before video and audio is
presented. Products compatible with the HDCP scheme such
as DVD players, satellite and cable HDTV set-top-boxes, as
well as few entertainment PCs requires a secure
connection to a compliant display, the process often described as
the handshake. Due to the increase in manufacturers
employing HDCP in their equipment, it is highly recommended that
any HDTV you purchase is compatible. Although most video
devices support high-definition video over component output,
analog connections are scheduled to phase out in the future
or possibly forced to limited resolutions output.
dss56
Hi,
I enjoy with your exploit, and I have got myself a splitter that removes HDCP protection.
What is your remover and did you bought it recently?
Thx
Tecnicator
Bought my splitter about 5 months ago, they are hard to find now. I have 2. Best is to buy from ebay and try if does not work return. Same thing on Amazon.
Good luck
dss56
Bought 4 and return4. If you could send me by mailebay reference I will apreciate. Thx😉
Tecnicator
The 1 I bought has been updated so the 1 being sold now will not do hdcp look at some of my past post you will find the info there
dss56
You can also check out the links on the Dutch version of this article – November 7th, 2018, Sjoerd confirmed that this splitter bought from AliExpress still works.
It is indeed a hit-and-miss with these splitters. Resellers have become careful in mentioning if their device does or does not strip HDCP, and models get updated all the time, quite often dropping the HDCP-stripping feature. I’ve seen in the posts here that most models that are HDMI 1.4, or newer, compatible seem to lose the HDCP stripping ability.
A product called “HD Fury” (see comments more towards the beginning of these comments) seems to be able to do HDCP stripping, but it’s quite expensive so I never even tried this one. Like the HD Fury 3, or HD Fury 4.
hans
Do you guys know if such setup is possible for 4k@60Hz aka HDCP 2.2?
I already did this HDCP-breaking setup for 1080p as shown in the article years ago, but haven’t found anything for the new HDCP and 4k.
UnknwonAlien
Hi UnknowAlien,
I have read somewhere that this HDMI splitter at Amazon Canada, or this one at Amazon USA, does this for HDMI 2.2.
The comments on the Amazon pages seem to confirm this.
However … I have not tested this myself and have not seen anyone here report it [yet].
Hope this helps, and if you decide to test these devices; please let us know
hans
Did some searching and found the same one mentioned here as well.
hans
HDCP Error Detected:
To play this video, your display and HDMI cables must support
High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP).
You can also try reconnecting HDMI cables or restarting your display. on tata sky web what is the reason
sandeep
This means that your device (The Tata Sky box) requires HDCP support from your TV, Monitor or Projector.
In your case your TV, Monitor or Projector does not support HDCP or does not support the correct HDCP version.
If you’ve used a converter, to convert HDMI to an analog signal (component, composite, VGA, etc), then this device may not be HDCP compliant.
Possible ways to fix this:
– Use a different TV (or converter)
– Get one of these HDMI splitters that strip HDCP
hans
Very useful thread. My situation is that I currently use an analog TV, vcrs and a Samsung box on the Optimum system. I go from the cable box to the vcrs to the TVs. The company is marketing its Altice One box that will eventually be the only option. I will stay with standard boxes as long as they are supported by the company. I have the digital to analog and hdmi to standard definition equipment but customers with the Altice report not being able to use converters for their present equipment as the company is blocking ( encrypting ) the signal. I’ve read the entire thread and need to know : what are the most dependable choices for splitters that will defeat encryption of the Optimum signal and allow for recording on vcrs ? Should I only look at splitters that eliminate HDCP 2 ? No idea what kind of blocking Optimum uses but it is intended not only to eliminate old equipment but anything but a Altice box to hdmi TV set up which is almost useless for me ,which splitters do you recommend based on my requirements and posters experiencess. I will buy at once. thanks, Stephen
Stephen
What splitter is best for a cable box that is hdmi only to enable vcr recording and will be used with hdmi/standard digital/analog converters and will defeat hdcp and hdcp 2. What encription would be used on an Optimum Altice One box ? thanks a bunch Stephen
Stephen
Have ordered four different splitters. including the iSolem from UK tho I’m in the US. A lot of the splitters recommended on the thread got ” does not split ” reviews on Amazon reviews. Aside from 1.3 vs 1.4 problem most possters here are not dealing with cable box hdmi connections. Altice will probably not be the only cable choice for a few years but I’m acting now. Stephen
Stephen
I’ll try to answer your questions in one post
…
I do think you will indeed need a DHCP stripper (HDMI splitter that does strip DHCP).
Modern set top boxes enforce DHCP, and in your case you may want to look for a HDMI 2.x capable splitter that does strip DHCP (see also the post from UnknownAlien just above yours). After the splitter, you’ll have to use your HDMI to analog converter so your VCR can record.
The review on Amazon are (for me anyway) just a guide in the right direction – not everybody is looking for a DHCP stripper
.
And as for the HDMI standard, you may be able to get away with a HDMI 1.3 splitter that strips DHCP (since in your setup 4K support is not needed, as you convert to analog which at best reaches 480p).
Unfortunately, most of the splitters tested here eventually move to a newer model that does not split DHCP. Additionally, most sellers will NOT advertise DHCP stripping. A good source, besides Amazon, is AliExpress.
hans
Hello Hans!
Still follow this site and thank you for all the help in the past!
Yes the pass-thru on the Cloner Box strips the HDCP, so it would work for Stephen’s situation which should look something like this:
Cable Box HDMI output –> HDMI input on Cloner Box. HDMI output on Cloner Box –> input on HDMI to Analog converter. Output of Converter –> Input of VCR.
Just remember, on the Cloner Box, if you are not seeing signal pass and you have a black screen on the your TV, hold down the RECORD button on the Cloner Box for 10 seconds and it should force it to pass the HDCP.
Trev
Awesome Trev!
Thanks for chiming in and helping out – I haven’t use my Cloner Box in a while (still packed after I moved), so I wasn’t 100% sure.
hans
I very much appreciate the replies . The reviews I’ve seen on splitters frequently include that they last a few days, important to get one that lasts. I assume that when you posted hdmi to analog that included the two step process of going not only digital to analog but also high def to standard. The equipment I have now is one converter does one job another one the other. Which cloner box is a good choice, most but not all have remotes? Any reason why a tv signal would not pass through as I believe from what I’ve seen the cloner is used for gaming on consoles ? I could not test anything now as although the hdmi signal from the Samsung box is identical to the Altice One it is not encrypted. SD
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
the splitter I once bought (the listing is now showing a seemingly different model) is still working just fine – but I could have been lucky of course.
From what I have read is that some can become pretty warm, so maybe putting the splitter in a spot where it can vent well may prolong its life.
As for going from HDMI to analog; I have played with one cheap device, which looks like this one at Amazon, does scaling down and conversion in one step. The only thing it (obviously) does not do, is stripping DHCP (which is why we’d want to use a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP or a Cloner Box).
My Cloner Box did not come with a remote (mine looks like this one, but the one I got is no longer listed) – I did see a few models with remote though referred as “pro” models.
Hope this helps
hans
Certainly does help as I’ve tried to gather information from all over tho this thread is by far the best as it gets specific about specific splitters.
A problem I’ve dealt with is why some splitters do not work when at one time the seeming same model did work. Possible answers are differences in the chips in the splitters in subsequent production modifications, early failure of the equipment ( frequent ) and possibly changes in the encryption itself.
Since I’m tech illiterate I can only pick up the possibilities. None of the choices I’ve made in purchases included any of the splitters first listed on this thread or the immediate additions to the universe of ones that seemed to work.
Since I cannot test these splitters as the Samsung cable box hdmi is not encrypted and they are very cheap or at least cheap enough I’ve ordered a lot of them so that if they do work I will maybe have several that will do the job even tho they will not be put in use until at least 3 years from now. Don’t want to pass up ones that are now available that may not be available later on.
I am still unsure about changes in what encryption may be in use in the future. As I understand it a splitter that was good for HDCP 1.2 ? will not be good for HDCP 2.2 ? or is this incorrect The cloner boxes would seem to be OK for use with a cable box but I assume they strip HDCP 2.2 which is currently in use ? If in future years the HDCP in use is say 3.2 would the current cloner boxes be useful or would newer units be necessary ? I assume the cloner boxes are manufactured with the intention to strip HDCP or is this not so ? SD
Stephen
Hi Stephen!
You’re right about earlier models allowing HDCP stripping and newer versions often do not. I suspect the change has to do with fear of the manufacturer or like you said; the use of newer chips that do not do the HDCP stripping.
As for the HDMI versions, I’ve noticed success with HDMI 1.3 splitters, and some HDMI 1.4 splitters.
I have not (yet) been able to test HDMI 2.x splitters (see also the comments earlier in this thread) – but I do suspect they will be available, even if it’s harder to find one.
Since most HDMI standards are backwards compatible, I would think that a HDMI 1.4 splitter would work just fine with newer HDMI 2.x equipment, but there will be some consequences. You can see this for example with my own setup. My TV is 4K and uses HDMI 2.x, but my home theatre sound system is HDMI 1.3. Feeding video through that works, however instead of 4K video it will switch down to 1080p.
On top of that, the HDCP version may change as well – so it is theoretically possible that an older splitter may no longer work. I am however curious how they would want to sell this, as it effectively eliminates the use of TV’s and such that are not even that old yet.
hans
Hi!
I’m quite confused… I want to send my set-top box HDMI output not only to one and only TV. Still, as you all have been pointing out, I have DHCP on the way.
However, my TV is 4K and I did not want to have to use it as just 1080p.
Did anyone tried any splitter that actually alows me to have my 4K running and also have 4K on the other ports, but as a copy of this first output, thus setting themm free from DHCP?
Thanks a lot!
:)
hna
Helder Noronha Alves
Hi HNA,
You’d need a splitter that supports HDCP stripping and at least HDMI 1.4, although HDMI 2.x would be recommended for 4K as it supports 60Hz 4K.
I have not yet had a need for this, and have seen very few posts about this (search for “HDMI 2” on this page).
One that has been reported to work is this one at Amazon US. Unfortunately, if you’re not in the US, it will redirect to a more local Amazon.
Someone reported this one from Fry’s to work as well.
Note: I have not tested either of these!
What “may” work is a getting HDMI 2.x splitter, and have your 4K TV (I assume it supports HDMI 1.4/2.0) on the first HDMI output, and the other device on the second output port.
Again: not tested by myself.
AliExpress is notoriously known for cheap ones, that may or may not work with.
Maybe other users can chime in, in case they ran into a HDMI 1.4 or 2.x splitter that strips HDCP.
hans
Hans, I last posted in Jan 2019 saying that none of the splitters I had tried in recent years would strip HDCP, and I’ve tried three more since then and still no joy. I’m fairly sure the supply based on the old chips has dried up and they’re now unobtanium. It does not help use when you post suggestions but say they are not tested by you – unless we get a positive confirmation of a specific source from someone who has bought one in the last year, it’s a safe bet that any such lead is just going to cause someone to throw more money away. I tried to set up a game recorder system for my brother in law this year (hence the three attempts to find a working HDCP-removing splitter) and it still doesn’t work and is turning into the world’s most expensive birthday present! I have one old working splitter myself (and one dead one) – if the current one ever dies (which is quite likely since these are on 24×7) I have no idea how to ever resurrect it. Note that at least 2 of my 3 purchases this year were from vendors who were explicitly advertising these devices as HDCP-removing. They’re either deliberate liars or reusing old copy that has been cut & pasted without understanding. All were Chinese.
GTX
@GTX: You’re probably right about the supply of working splitters to be dried out, and Chinese sellers just pasting text without even reading what they are pasting in their description. Anything to make a buck I guess.
As for posting; apologies if I forgot about previous posts, but January 2019 has been a while ago. Maybe someone ran into a working model.
I’d just hate to see visitors not getting any reply. The user has 2 options: try to find a working (expensive) HDFury, or try one (for example from Amazon) where a reviewer lists it as HDMI 2.x compatible and where they had success with HDCP removal.
Thanks for chiming in though – it’s much appreciated.
hans
Thank you both, Hans and GTX :).
I guess all we do know for sure is that we need a HDMI 2.x splitter with HDCP 2.2 that can take (at least) one of it’s outputs to work fine without losing any of it’s 4K@60Hz capacities and then replicate it to the rest of the outputs (with no encryption and in 4K@60Hz).
If anyone has tested anything like this and had a nice result, I think the sharing would be quite appreciated by us all :).
Thank you all!
hna
HNA
Hans – I had wrongly assumed that the amazon link was to one of the ones I had tried – many of them contain reviews saying that the devices strip HDCP but on closer examination you notice that the reviews which say that are all several years old… but the one you posted is a new one, so I’ve ordered one and will report back to confirm if it works.
GTX
Hi everyone,
The question remains, has anyone find a system or hardware to strip HDCP? I still have the blank screen on my avermedia recorder!!!
I have tried 4 HDMI Amazon splitters with no luck!!!
Thx
Tecnico
tecnico
Awesome, without testing by others we would never get a good list indeed
It is kind-a hard to determine at what point one is throwing away money indeed – and on top of that reviews are not always as “complete” or recent as we’d want to. Not to mention sellers that bluntly lie, or make up their own reviews.
hans
Oh crap, going through the messages I overlooked your “the one from Amazon didn’t work”
So the question remains … 4K splitter with HDCP stripping; anyone?
hans
Hi Hans and thanks for your answer.
The question remains… To strip, or not to strip… :) Yep, definitely, to strip :).
We really need a HDMI 2.0 splitter with HDCP 2.2 and we need it to use one of the outputs (port1 would make sense, yes) to accept and ‘translate’ the signal and then replicate it, without any encryption, to the other ports. It seems you really understood me :).
Thanks a lot.
And yes, I’m out of US. :)
Thanks again.
hna
HNA
As GTX rightfully mentioned; it always remains a guessing game.
I honestly find it weird that manufacturers get away with crippled hardware and introducing new incompatible standards (for TV’s etc) without a fall-back option. This way we, the consumer, is forced to throw away our investment and to replace it with new equipment. Bad bad bad.
GTX mentioned he’s going to try the Amazon link, and will report back with his findings (thanks GTX!).
The trick to have a HDMI 2.x splitter, with a valid HMDI 2.x device on output 1, used to do the trick with some of the older splitters. I have no idea if this still would work for newer splitters with the newer HDCP standards. worth a try though. Naturally, this could introduce other problems. For example having a 4K TV on output 1 (telling the video “sender” to use 4K) and a 1080p device on output 2 (which now receives 4K video – if this would work – but does not have the ability to display it).
hans
Good morning Hans!
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything here and thought I’d throw this in the mix. I get emails from this company often but have yet to try any of their gear:
https://www.hdfury.com/
It’s expensive and back before I bought a couple of splitters that worked, I was considering saving up to buy one of their HD products to overcome the standard HDCP.
Like you, I have not crossed into the 4K realm yet and as 8K is starting to permeate the marketplace, will probably bypass 4K all together and save for an 8K setup in a few more years as prices drop.
Good luck all with the 4K HDCP and hope someone finds a device that will work.
Trev
I really shouldn’t be surprised any more. Another $34 down the drain. I have a working setup that records well to a game recorder. I swap out the old splitter for the one referenced above. No longer records. Try both output ports. No difference. Swap back in the old one. Records again no problem. Therefore the splitter is not removing HDCP. I doubt the vendor will take it back for this reason because it is not advertised as an HDCP remover. (actually I think it’s now illegal to advertise that any product does this, so you have to rely on dog-whistles and third-party comments to even suspect that a product removes HDCP) and I expect Amazon will be getting tired of me returning splitters for no acceptable reasons since this is the fourth one I think. And the most expensive one. The only thing I haven’t tried yet is attaching a 4K TV to the first output and using the copied feed on the second output, which I’ll do when the TV is free. (Wife is watching it just now in the other room, and we only have the one actual TV – our main viewing has been on a projector since our last living room TV failed four or five years ago. It’ll take some effort to carry that TV into the room where the game recorder is hooked up so I may not get to it today). If you don’t hear back from me assume it also failed. I’ll definitely report back if it works.
GTX
Attaching a TV to the splitter did not help. Tried both ports, both positions of EDID switch. Powering off and repowering the splitter between tests. So remove the Revesun from the list of potentials and all the badge-engineered similar units.
GTX
@Trev:
Good morning to you too!
I’ve heard good things about HDFury, and yes it’s expensive and it seems they have been in some legal disputes.
I’m also not sure if one would need a specific version of the firmware?
As for 4K vs 8K – I think I’ll skip 8K. I have an 82″ Samsung (4K) and have to admit that while watching a movie (compared to my old 80″ 1080p Vizio), I’m not seeing the added value. I’m not regretting switching to 4K, but the advantages were more to be found in the “Smart TV” and design of the TV than anything else. And I lost the (rarely used – so not a big loss) 3D capability.
@GTX:
Yeah, I’m not entirely surprised either. I was keeping my fingers crossed though.
Interesting that in this day and age where we want to be more conscious about the environment and have landfills full of TV’s loaded with heavy metals, that manufacturers get away with this all in the name of the mighty dollar.
Haha, you definitely do not want to upset the wife
.
Sad to hear that the output-1 trick didn’t work.
Did you try to first connect output-1 and start watching, then connect Output-2 to your game recorder.
Having said that; does your game recorder do 4K?
I can only imagine that a 1080p device may confuse things (in your case, for the game recorder).
This project started for me, so I can record videos like walking through BIOS settings and such, and some laptops seem to even put HDCP over that (insane). So I have not had the need (yet) for any 4K recordings. I use an Elgato Game Capture HD (does 1080p max), and am very pleased how well it works. Now I mostly use it for converting old family videos from VHS-c – with very acceptable results (considering it is coming from VHS).
hans
I’ve posted here before on this issue which seemd to get more complex as time passes. Back in 12/18 I purchased several different splitters . Have not had the opportunity to test any of them as my cable company still has old boxes available, ones that do not use an encrypted signal.
Public is not eager to go for new model boxes with built in modem so I should be able to use the old equipment for some time to come.
When my current modem needs replacement I’ll probably again get a pair of old boxes as backup which is cheap enough. Will have to keep an eye on any news of changeover to a time when only the new boxes will be available.
I was, or thought I was up to date on the variables but seems not so I’ll put up some questions and see if I can add to my information.
First does anyone here use a splitter that now works ? If so whwn was it purchased ? I have four different models purchased in 12/18 including the Revesun. A recent post here states his Revesun does not work but not the time of purchase. Amazon revies from early 1019 state it does work. As was mentioned before seems manufacturers may be taking out chip needed for strpping.
Going back to the header post seems those splitters were for an earlier level of encryption ( 1.4 ? ) and reports that they do not work may be due to removal of chips from later manufacturing runs or their inability to work with a new level of encryption or they just broke after use.
I thought that cloner boxers were seen as a good choice for stripping…can they be used for cabe boxes as well or limited to games. Anyone have experiece with them ?
I would still be using a set up with an anolog vcr and an analof tv or hi df with the coaxial analog input connection. If I ever had to see what I could do with an encrypted signal would I absoluted hace to use a high def TV connected to one of splitters outputs to get the splitter to work with an anolog vcr or is this nor known for sure ? Would I first have to attach the splitter to the new encrypted box then the digital to analog/hi def to standard def components or could I also do the change from hi def to standard analog and then have the splitter in the chain going to the vcr ? Don’t know a thing about electronics though I can trouble shoot vcr and cassette tapes. As I wrote I have four different companiies’ splitters all purchaded in 12/18 after confirming on Amazon at that time that they did strip.
I see some posters are concerned about not losing quality of picture and discuss 4K and 8 K , I’m not sure if my more basic/antiquated set up would have more or fewer concers but have you guys tried all of the splitters that were stated as able to strip in customer reviews in 12/18.
I don’t recall seeing any posts here for splitters that should have stripped per Amazon customer revies that were purchased in 12/19 or earlier.
I guess that for even the splitters that do work, again sorry I can not confirm if mine do or don’t as I do not have to deal with an encrypted signal , cable companies will in the future ” upgrade ” the encryption and then current splitter that do now work will then not work.
I would appreciate answers to any of these questions Stephen
Stephen
Hi Stephen!
I have bought several of the HDMI Cloner Boxes, from Cloner Alliance, starting back in 2015. I am still using them on occasion. I’ve used them to record content from our Xfinity cable box, AppleTV 3, and Amazon Firestick as well as Amazon FireTV. Everything is 1080p. I do not have a 4K setup and don’t plan on updating to a 4K setup since it cost so much for our 1080 HD setup, so I have no idea how the Cloner Box will deal with a 4K signal.
But as of now, the Cloner Box has been able to overcome the HDCP on 1080 content thru all of the above devices.
Trev
Thx trev
Tec
Here is a copy of my post earlier on on this subject and found the same looking splitter but 1 was different from the other read and see.
Jan 5, 2019 – 9:19 AM
Comment Link
Many sellers on ebay say their splitter will do HDCP but
most will not so best is to hope someone here will report a good working
splitter and where it was bought from. I have 2 splitters that work
bought from Amazon. I have posted in an earlier post here. Well I
decided to buy another and does not work. I opened a working one and a
non working one the newer one had another on board chip and both were
advertised as 1.3version. When opened the pc board on new said 1.4
version so most sellers are not telling the truth about stripping the
HDCP. I have like a said an earlier post with the models. I’m sure its a
view-HD >VHD-1X2MN3D. Its the newer one and I sent back. Both have
same model # and Look the same but If you open up the pc boards will
have the version of the splitter.
Someone has to of bought one recently and has worked. Hope they will report it here.
Mine is a simple setup Cable box> to in of splitter>1 port to
tv HDMI 1> 2nd port to a an Aver Media 310 HD recorder and the
recordings are great recording HD material> and to TV HDMI 2 so I can
bypass going to the recorder. Also have IPTV Satellite setup and can
record that also with the Aver Media 310. All recording are to an
external 4TB hard drive. I have quite a library some recorded and some
downloaded and moved to the 4TB HD.
Also have a Cable box dvr that can record 5 channels at same time.
But have to record to the Aver Media 310 in real time to have my own
recording. That is where the splitter comes into play recording live tv
or DVR recording.
I have given up looking for a splitter as I have 2 and 1 that I got refunded and was told to keep the splitter.
Good luck for the HDCP hunt if I see anything I will report here.
dss56/Bob
dss56
dss56
Hi dss56/Bob!
I quit spending money on splitters a few years ago after buying 2 that said they’d work at decrypting the HDCP, and they did not. My recommendation to you is the HDML Cloner Box on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/HDML-Cloner-Standalone-Lag-Free-Past-Through-Required/dp/B00TF9MCXU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hdmlcloner+box&qid=1570053753&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Do not go with the more expensive ones. This stand alone recorder has been great for me in decrypting HDCP. I bought my first one back in 2015 and have 3 altogether.
I think we will not have another splitter made that will decrypt HDCP and I feel sorry for all those people still foolish enough to buy them. The industry stepped in, put the squeeze on the manufactureres and all the good splitters are now gone. Just accept it and move on.
Even if you want to still record on your AverMedia, the signal going thru the HDML Cloner Box has been stripped of the HDCP, if you have followed the directions that are included with it. Cloner Alliance says that if you hook everything up right and still no signal passes, to hold down the RECORD button for 10 seconds and that should bring it up. It is what I had to do with each of the boxes I have and they’ve worked ever since.
Hope this helps.
Trev
About the cloner box : i I need to pass the signal through to a analog vcr. . A few questions : do you need to press and hold down record button for it to work ? I’ve read that it just keeps recording unless the butto is pushed again . Is the principle here that the piece records stripped HDMI > I need to pass the signal thru to an analog vcr , does the box allow attachment of the digital to analog/ high def to standard def wires/components ? I’d appreciate it if you’s give me an understanding of how it does or cannot do what I need from it. If it worked my set up would be : encrypted digital signal to cloner which then strips encryption the cloner attached to high def/digital to analog/standard def signal which is connedted to input of analog vcr. then vcr to analog or high def/analog tv. Would this work.? How many hours does the box record beforeit is full and after it is full is another box needed. I need to know if my application for it is something it can do and I cannot figure it out myself . Stephen
stephen
In your setup, you have already tried various splitters going HDMI into some kind of downconverter to get to Analog. I am assuming that you have and HDMI to Analog downconverter.You’re setup is easy to diagram:
Source Output HDMI –> HDMI Input on Cloner Box. HDMI Output on Cloner Box –> HDMI Input on Downconverter. Downconverter Component Output –> Component Input on VCR.
So yes, as you described your setup with the Cloner Box, should work.
trev
I believe investigation has shown current cloner boxes do not strip. My vcrs have composire ( RCA ) inputs
Stephen
I have ten splitters from four manufacturers all of which got comments that they strip. but I’m very interested in knowing if a cloner box will work for me. Most of my recording is done over night so I can’t press a button to let a signal pass through. Do these cloner boxer fill up with data ? I’m only interested in vcr recording. There is a confirmation that the BEP splitter tho not a sturdy item works, anyone disagree ? Stephen
Stephen
Its not clear if the cloner alliance boxes strip HDCP only for recording internally or whether the stripped signal is passed through and their internal recording feature can be ignored. If they do pass a signal through, what’s the cheapest of their many units that supports this, and do you have to keep pressing the button every time the input signal changes from 720 to 1080?
I presume these guys do not have a legitimate HDCP key and are using the master key which was cracked about 8 years ago – would that imply they’re going to have problems with 4K and HDCP 2? And that they’re likely to be leaned on like the splitter manufacturers were (or blocked on import since I assume they’re Chinese?)
GTX
If you take the time to go back through the comments I made years ago about the Cloner Box, I’m pretty sure you will find the answers you are looking for.
The first time I hooked all the cables up with the final HDMI cable coming out of the Cloner Box to the TV, all I got was a black screen. In the email I received from Cloner Alliance, they said to hold the REC button down for 10 seconds and your picture should appear. It Did.
I’ve only had to push and hold the REC button once when I first set it up with my system. Everytime you push the REC button it starts recording even when you are just getting it started the first time to strip the HDCP. It’s not the end of the world. Push the button again and it stops recording. From that point on, in my setup, I have not had to go thru this process.
Holding the record button down for about 5 seconds will change whether you are recording 720p or 1080p – but if your input signal is only 720p, recording in 1080p is not an option.
trev
Yes, once you’ve followed all the instructions and you no longer have a black screen but the actual Video, the Cloner Box is passing a non-HDCP signal, so if you wanted to record on another device, watch on an older TV or even put it into a splitter to watch on several TVs, you can.
I’m not an industry or government guy, so I have no idea how the Cloner Box is still on the market. I just know that the 3 I have work and I take good care of them.
trev
This is for TREV or anyone elsewho an help. I’ve looked at the recent reviews for the Cloner Alliance box and I’ve seen that some customers cannot get a strpped signal tho they did not spefically say if they did or did not hold down the record key. I have to discount earlier reviews as the box may not be the same. Also one review stated only pro model did the stripping. When did you buy your cloner box. Also again does anyone have information about the BEP splitter ? rA review here in early November 2018 said it works . Stephen
Stephen
I bought my first Cloner Box in November 2015.
The second one in January 2016 and the third one in November 2016.
One of my friends bought a higher end Cloner Box than the lowest priced one that I have and said he could not get it to work, so I have stuck with the plain model that now appears to be $109 vs the $99 I paid for each of mine.
It’s all hit and miss at this point. Would like to hear from anyone that has purchased any of the HDML Cloner Boxes over the last year.
Trev
BEP splitter I have 4 of these so I gave a good look to Amazon Q & A , nothing in reviews about stripping This is the kind of morass only electronics can bring. In the Q & A thhee people said it was not a pass through though without any foundation all responses were from 2018 . In this thread 3 out of 3 people wrote that it worked tho one erson wrote he had to connect and disconnect TV splitter a few times then it worled fine so how’s that for dis information from either this thread or Amazon ?
The other cloner boxes I checked do not look at all promising. The one that is /was recommende by TREV may work but the current reviews are looking bad. You’d think people would have some command of language and be able clearly include what is the basis for their opinon ? Actually the one here that stated the writer had to play with it was the only post that contained any real information about passing through. And even that is weird.
Stephen
Two questions : assuming any of my splitters will work ./….( i will be as careful as possible to check on progress of my cable company’s swith over to the modum/cable combo encrypted boxes, The completion of the change over will probably take many years before the old equipment is no longer available and company will not support old equipment )…. is it absolutely necessary to have a high def device attached to output 1 of the splitter to have encryption striped if the second out put is to an analog device ? Or is this an educated guess ?
Second question : I use an analog TV also have high def small tvs all have the RTF ? screw in post for coaxial ( analog ) cable.
I believe ? that most high def tvs do not have this coaxial post. Is it possible to have an analog signal go into one of these TVs that lack the coaxial screw in input post by using some type of converter that will allow the coaxial cable to plug into a hdmi ( high def )input on one of these TVs ? thanks for any responses Stephen
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
Question 1: This is an educated guess, based on some of the older (1080p) splitters that would only work that way.
Question 2: You’ll need a HDMI to analog converter (Composite or Component, depending on your TV inputs).
You can find a few at Amazon, but most of the ones listed (at the time I’m writing this reply) seem to only support 1080p, OR they only extract analog audio. So they would be no good for 4K to analog video.
I did happen to see a HDMI 4K to RCA analog (Audio and Video) at AliExpress – of course I didn’t test this one, and keep in mind that your 4K picture will be downscaled to 480p or something like that, and a lot of the quality will be lost.
I do recall some of the older analog TV’s actually supporting 1080p through component video, but I was unable to find a HDMI 4K to “1080p component analog” converter.
You may have to do some searching to find a suitable converter.
Since you mentioned RTF (I think you mean “RF”, since you mention coax); I’d look and see if the TV has a composite (RCA yellow) or component (RCA red,blue,green) video input.
Pushing analog video, after conversion, through additional RF “conversion” will probably degrade the quality even more.
If you really do want to go this route: I think you’ll find it hard to find an analog video to RF converter, since nobody really uses them anymore.
Additional warning: your RF input is probably for an old-school analog video tuner.
Modern TV’s also can have an RF input, however their tuners are often expecting digital TV signal, which is not the same and often these tuners may not even support analog TV RF.
hans
thanks so much for the post. Your comment that new TVs may have the rf post but may not take an analog signal was something I did not consider so I , for the first time, tested one of the small HDMI TVs I bought. I bought them as I have only two spare analog sets and in addition I can’t count on them to operate forever.
I put the coaxial cable from a vcr into the threaded post input on the HDMI set and of cource I got a ” no signal ” screen. Don’t know if I have the instructions for this set or not ( bought it about four years ago ).
Hit the source button and with some difficulty highlighted the ” TV” icon pressed that and with more difficulty found a load cable channels icon and pressed that option and the channels loaded although the TV only racognized the frst four channels but ehen it finished loading the picture was passed through.
I.m not sure if I had made my question clear in my post I’,ll try again. I bought three small HDMI TVs a couple of years ago that had the coaxial post so I’d be able to play the vcrs into these TVs. If in the event all of my current tvs are no longer useable do to age I would then need to get another tv.
I note that on the front and back of the vcrs there are the red white and yellow RCA plugs but on the HDMI TVs there are the six plugs so if in the future I need another TV and none of them have the coaxial threaded post I would need to send the output from the vcrs using either the three RCA plugs or the coaxial cable into a TV that would normally only accept HDMI.
Is there any converter that would have on one end inputs that accept either a coaxial or RCA analog signal and on the other end have a HDMI or 6 plug RCA out put that a TV that does not have the coaxial screwed post input but only the HDMI port and 6 plug RCA ports ?
In other words is there a converterthat goes from analog signal to something that will plug into a new TV and the set will recognize and play ?
I expect that I cannot convert a standard def analog signal to HDMI but can I use any parts that will fit into the TV and play the analog vcr output ? Stephen
Stephen
I’ve contacted HDFURY corp. to ask if their equipment does what I will need it to do. Company also has a chat room so when I get my registration completed I’ll run up some messages to people who have the equipment and possibly get definitive answers to this HDCP problem as I cannot test my splitters at this time as my cable company will probably not switch over to the new equipment for years. Stephen
Stephen
I got on the support chat section of the HD Fury site but can’t make heads or tails out of it to ask my question about HDCP stripping. need to know if their products pass through ( strip ) an encoded 1080 hdmi signal and if the box stores the stripped material or just passes it through. I would not be able to remove stored material with my senior computer as it has limited capabilities and their box would fill up.
Can someone more tech savy get on the board and get this information . ? I’m sure most here would want to know what’s what with this equipment. This is the best way to go at this point. I’ve sent an email to the company with this question but who knows if I’ll get any answer or a meaningful answer . Stephen
Stephen
Got a repy from HDFURY but it did not answer my question about strpping. Can someone get on their support message board and get a definite answer on what their equpment can do ? SSD
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
considering the grey area legality-wise, I highly doubt they will make a clear statement.
Maybe you’d want to explore Reddit (check out this Reddit-search) or a not-affiliated HDFury user form (I’m not a HDFury owner, so I don’t know any).
hans
Think I got the answer from them in a follow up mail. It says it will if aided by ” aftermarket firmware ” which I assume must involve a computer…I use a senior computer that has limited downloading abilities ( Amaon, Netflix ) and I can even down load you tube videos using some sites on the web that do not require application down loads.
This firmware topic was covered on this site starting with a post dated 2/3/18.
Can anyone explain in non tech wording just what has to be done with regards to a computer the download and whatever device such as the HDFURY is to receive the additional information ? Stephen
Stephen
I have a no longer made HDFURY device which does strip out the DRM but it uses hacked firmware.
Grim Reaper
In the Dutch version of this article, a user reported a (1080p!) HDMI splitter that still works: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000282511030.html
They still seem to have plenty of stock and it’s € 8,53 including shipping (app. $8).
hans
Awesome! Thank you for the update Hans. I don’t have need of a new splitter, but hopefully someone else who needs one, will purchase this on the US site and verify that it is a splitter that breaks HDCP.
Trev
ordered, for better or worse.
I guess for $10 I can risk it one more time. No free returns with these guys though.
GTX
Well, pretty much as expected… not only no DRM removal, but when I swap out my working splitter-stripper for the one which arrived just now – no picture at all! There’s a blue LED on the hdmi input and output side which is new, and they are both flashing continuously. But no picture on the TV.
Chances of the problem being user error – minute verging on NIL – there are no switches on this device, it is totally plug and play, and an older splitter worked before trying this one and worked again after trying this one. Checked and removed/reinserted all 3 HDMI cables and the new power supply.
So I call BS on this being another working stripper.
GTX
Don’t have an encrypted signal to test this on.
Does the Dutch poster state that it removes encryption from a TV signal or just that iit splits the signal ? I’ve seen reviews of spliters that did not even split but that’s rare.
Did you have the piece unplugged before putting in the HDMI cables ?
Seems strange to get a blank screen instead of a message to state programing is protected or a bunch of colors on the screen.
What are the two outputs connected to ? . Are they a HDMI TV and a recording device, or 2 HDMI tvs or what ?
Can you try to connect to just one HDTV from output 1, that’s a legitimate use ? If this does not work splitter may be damaged as it is conventionally made to do this. If you have the extra TVs try a HDTV on both outputs. Again this is what it was made to do. It should split the signal and get a handshake with each TV even if the piece does not strip. If it does not work with HDTVs then could be a damaged asplitter…seems strange but try at least with one HDTV.
I’ve read a review with another splitter that I have which states the reviewer had to try several times to get the piece to work , unplugging power source, especially , but then it worked without further ado.
Do try with at least a TV , if there’s a problem there it could be a bad unit. SD
Stephen
That sucks
– sorry to hear about yet another failure.
I’m adding your findings to the Dutch post – others should know this.
Surprising to hear though, since the Dutch guy posted it October 22nd 2019.
This goes along with the findings of most recent models.
Since you get no picture; did you test the splitter with a HDCP source and a HDCP capable monitor/TV? (obviously a silly question, just had to ask).
hans
Was your splitter not just “Dead on arrival”? Just a faulty one?
Because I would expect a message like “Protected” if HDCP was not removed.
Tim
I know they will probably fail, but I’ll give these 2 a try from AliExpress:
I just ordered them.
One (the 1080p model) is only $2.41, so for that money I can take a gamble.
The other one is supposed to be HDMI 2.x (with 4K@60Hz support) – so I’m pretty sure it will fail, but I’d have a use for that one anyway
Once I receive them (several weeks I’m afraid), I’ll post my findings.
hans
Just ordered several. I found another working splitter by Supersun but it is now unavailable on Amazon. Problem is also that reviews state it breaks in hours or days. Better to stock up. Don’t see electronics companies dropping HDCP ever even tho people who do the copying and selling crack the encryption codes immediatey SD
Stephen DeMay
These HDCP strippers are becoming more and more rare – stocking up is not a bad plan
hans
I just caught this one in the Dutch version of this article – thank Sjoerd for finding it
hans
If you can read Dutch just what does the post say ?
Stephen
The Dutch poster said (not very helpful – just for those curious about the translation):
hans
What is the date of the Dutch post ?
Stephen
October 22, 1029 – so pretty recent I’d say.
hans
Tried my hand at translating the Dutch posts. Am I correct that the Dutch guy at first recommended a splitter that is no longer available ? Probably becuase it does strip.
Then he recommends another splitter that he believes is available and works but does he test it ?
Stephen
Sjoerd actually states that he had purchased that particular model for a friend, and it worked.
Note: I do not to contact folks that post here directly based on their email address – only by replying to their message.
First of, most posters use fake email addresses anyway and if I’d be posting here, I’d appreciate my email not being used in that way as well.
Feel free to respond to his post in English though – you’ll find that most Dutch people do speak English).
But like I said: most folks post with a fake email address, so he may or may not get the notification of your question.
Also: I did verify the link he posted (before posting it here), to make sure it is not somesorts of affiliate link, which it isn’t.
(no harm in asking me though)
hans
Hans could you ask Dutch poster if he’s used the new splitter. A year passed between older and recent posts so he could have bought the new one and tried it or maybe he is guesing it would work. Technical information on Ali site for old spliter and manual foe new one have identical wording. Maybe netherlands does not have restrctions on striping ? Old spliter has a name not on new one.. Try just passing through to one then two HDMI tvs to see if it works in conventional way. Try plugging and unplugging power on splitter several times to try to goose it. Don’t plug in hdmi cables when splitter is plugged in. Try having all equipment in chain turned off before inserting hdmi cables into splitter then turn on everything but splitter then splitter.
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
in his last post (10-22-2019) Sjoerd says he had purchased a different model (the Ali-Express link) for a friend who needed a HDCP stripper as well.
I don’t think the seller has a region specific splitter, and as far as I know, stripping HDCP may be considered questionable in the Netherlands as well
Good thinking though.
hans
Given all the variables at this time I do not consider the test of the spliter to be thorough…a follow up along the lines suggested has not appeared. Tho I am clueless as to how the nitty gritty of the electronics work I would think that the process of removal of the encryption would be subtle and might have to be handled in just the right way to nudge the connection to work.Older spliters that work would be using a different chip that might be hardier than updated ones. I do recall reading Amazon reviews about spliters that don’t pass any signal at all but those reviews were oddities in other reviews for the same product in which reviewers did not have the problem.I’ve read a lot of reviews for a lot a products. the ones that stated the products did not strip almost always did not contain what did happen.The only real test of the Ali Express spliter is t o first get an encoded signal played on another TV or Monitor, then to go thru the variations of set up I’ve already outlined. Apparently the result with a spliter that does not split is some sort of message or blotchy colors…a blank screen does not seem right. as previously written at least one splitter at first did not seem to work then it did after a lot of fussing. Why would the Dutch poster write it seems to work unless there was some feedback from the user. ?Everything considered things still seem up in the air., trouble shooting is part of the game with electronics, I’ve been doing it since the early 70’s.My cable company is trying to market a glitch filled monstrosity that combines cable box, modem and recorder in one machine. Few people have any interest so the old boxes will probably be around for years. I’d stock up on them but I’d have to keep at least one spare modem as well and get charged for the service so I’ll replace the modem and boxes when needed.
Stephen
Guys, I’ll do a more exhaustive test in a couple of days when the painkillers have worn off – I posted a quick summary and then had to go to hospital for a scheduled operation so haven’t had time to do anything more detailed. Just got back today. Regards, G from TX.
GTX
Hi G from TX (I used to live in Houston!
),
Take your time and recover from surgery.
Wishing you a speedy recovery!
hans
Hi Stephen,
From what I recall reading somewhere, back in the day, is that the older HDMI splitters actually use a TV chip – which would identify the splitter itself as a valid HDCP device.
I suspect that with the money hungry organisations coming down on them, these manufacturers changed to a different chip to handle this by passing through the HDCP request.
That’s why I would suspect AliExpress to be more likely to have splitters that strip HDCP – knowing that China doesn’t take Copyright all that serious.
Then again; most of us here are not trying to circumvent copyright. We just want our “old” equipment to work with newer devices.
On that note (I’ll try not to step on my soapbox here); In a world where we are all very concerned about the environment, I’m very surprised to see that society is totally OK with us throwing away perfectly good working equipment in favor of lining companies pockets while filling landfills with more plastics and heavy metals. Weird.
hans
OK I got it working with 3 phones now so this tells me any phone with usb-type c connector this most likely will work
Steps
You will need a capture card for PC, Camlink 4k usb (works clean hdmi)
You needed a usb type-c to hdmi
high quality HDMI cable
then go to the market and download open camera
go into the open camera settings / on screen GUI / Immersive Mode and select hide everything. done
now plug everything in and use the broadcasting software of your choice!
Have a great day!
SteveOOO
SterveOOO
Thanks Steve000 for sharing!
I had not yet heard of the Elgator Cam Link 4K – interesting!
Too bad it doesn’t have analog input (which I do use on occasion to capture old VHS tapes), but it looks nice!
I presume you’re referring to Android phones? Is this the right version of “Open Camera”?
hans
you are correct with the link to open camera…. I was informed this does work with a iphone as well from a co worker, will look into it later this week
I record construction safety training videos as well was what you don’t do for a living
The cam-link allows me to do a live record in the field other wise I’m in my office and use a black magic card with multiple cameras
Its nice not having to carry heavy camera gear now. This would work for gamer’s or newbe vloggers
SteveOOO
Knowing Apple, this trick will probably never work on iPhones.
This is where Android shines I guess
I still have an Elgato Game CaptureHD (does 1080p) which has component, composite en S-Video input besides the HDMI input.
The Cam Link looks pretty cool though, so I may get me one of these.
I use these mostly for instructional videos or screenshot captures where I cannot get screenshots (eg. BIOS settings and such).
I can see this to be very useful in your application and for gamers as well.
I should let my brother in law know, he’s creating safety instruction for construction at times as well!
hans
HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included
I found this one that works. I can record using my Elgato 4k60. Also confirmed using my HDFury downstream to show no HDCP.
Dave
Hi Dave!
Thanks for reporting! A 4K splitter (30Hz) for $14 that works! Wow!
I hope others can confirm this as well (since manufacturers seem to keep changing their hardware).
hans
This one also works, although it’s sneaky in that it will output hdcp if you connect it to a hdcp compliant device. But if you connect it to a non compliant device like my Elgato capture card, it strips hdcp. I was able to get 4k60 420 8bit out of it. Won’t do 10bit without going to 30hz.
4K HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out by OREI – Ultra HD @ 30 Hz 1×2 Ver. 1.4 HDCP, Power HDMI Supports 3D Full HD 1080P for Xbox, PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Blu Ray Apple TV HDTV – Adapter Included
Dave
And just to clarify, I’m capturing Netflix and Amazon from my Nvidia Shield with these.
Dave
One more thing, I just bought them this week.
Dave
Awesome! Thanks Dave for the details … so no 10-bit recording, but definitely least 4K
…
I’ll have to figure a purpose to get one of these (most equipment here is still 1080p).
hans
It explicitly states that HDCP bypass is not possible. How come it works for you?
Holgersson
Dave,
Is your full configuration? I’ve been using a ROKU => HDMI cable => El Gato HD 60S => USB C => PC USB input with El Gato Game capture or OBS to do channel setup tutorials. As of today it doesn’t work anymore. Specifically, if I plug in an output hdmi cable from the EL Gato to my TV without the software running, it plays without errors however, the moment I turn on any of the capture software, it throws the error s screen. If I close the software, it resumes playing on the TV. Really trying to find a solution. Please share any thoughts. Thank you.
Quicksilver
Greetings,
This thread is loaded with great information. I would like to add my experience.
I have been trying to get my Roku Ultra 2019 to communicate with my projector with DVI input without giving a purple-tinted screen. I tried everything including splitters, adapters, cables and settings. After much frustration I bought a Amazon FireStick 4K on black Friday. It properly communicated with the projector right off the bat. The Roku will be returned.
~John
John Meggie
Hi John!
Thanks for sharing! Sounds like the Roku was a lemon … good to hear you found the culprit!
hans
Hi Hans,
The Roku could have been a lemon, but it worked fine when hooked to a regular TV. I understand a purple screen indicates an HDCP error. My hunch is it didn’t like the DVI connector on the projector.
Thanks
John
Hi John,
from what I read, this could als be related to the color spectrum being used. Since DVI appears to only support RGB, but HDMI seems to be able to do RGB or YPbPr.
…
My best guess is that the Roku firmware (or hardware) would throw out YPbPr instead of RGB, and your HDMI to DVI converter would not be able to convert that to RGB. So when you get a magenta or green screen, there could be a miscommunication over HDMI and/or an incorrect setting on your device (Roku) or display (TV) for that type of color spectrum.
But … I just had to read that somewhere else as well
Glad it is resolved though, and I hope other Roku users benefit from your experience!
hans
I’m confused by the last few posts. I will need a splitter that will remove HDCP from a TV cable box to be played on an analog TV after changing HDMI to analog standard definition or to possibly use with HDMI tvs purchased in the last 2 – 4 years. I see th uses for the last two splitters were for applications other than the ones I would need. Can anyone tell me if the OREI and/or techole splitters will work for my needs and if a HDMI TV that handshakes the HDMI signal is necessary to connect to the splitter to remove the HDCP. Please use as little tech talk as posible as I will get confused Stephen
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
It wouldn’t matter for what purpose you’d need HDCP removed. My personal goal was to record instructional videos, from a HDMI with HDCP source.
Others need it (like yourself) to be able to use their existing TV or Projector, that are either analog or do not support or do not support the latest HDCP version.
And others want to record their shows like they used to do with their DVR or VHS recorder.
All require the same thing: remove HDCP.
In your case the next step would of course be conversion to analog.
Having said that, as you can read in most posts here, it will be a hit or miss when buying a splitter that has been reported to strip HDCP.
Some models “used to” strip HDCP, but newer versions of said splitter suddenly no longer split HDCP (probably for legal reasons).
Since I haven’t purchased a splitter in a while (still waiting for my new ones to be delivered), I hope one or the other user can confirm a recent purchase to work.
Dave (link) seemed to have found one that even works for 4K/HDMI2.x, but you won’t know for sure until you actually purchased one.
Your best bet would be AliExpress or Amazon (read the most recent reviews at Amazon for a possible hint if it can strip HDCP).
Some splitters have been reported where on one output port (often the 1st one) should be a valid HDCP capable device – those are probably not useful for you.
hans
Thanks Hans. Ordered a few of the Oreis. Now I have about 25 untested slitters by I think 6 manufacturers. They’re cheap so cost is not any factor. I would need two to be in place for the 2 vcrs I have in the set up I use. I only look at reviews from the past year on Amazon. User reviews frequently say products did not work at all or failed after a short time. I suppose I could use a splitter that needs a HDMI compliant device in output 1 butthat would be a mess. My cable company probably will not convert to HDCP fror years as it( Optimum ) now owned by Altice a Dutch company iis trying to cut every corner to save costs. Its new product ( Altice 1 ) which is a combination of cable box and modem is such a fiasco virtually nobody wants it. Have only about 6,000 hours of blank vhs tape left ( probably have over 1000,000 hours recorded ) so I will have to cut back on amount I record in in future but I don’t want to be unable to tape. Have so many splitters and analog converters it’s a jumble. May not live long enough to need to use them.
Strphen
ordered some of the orei piece , that will give me about 25 untested splitters by 6 different manufacturers. In a worst case scenario could attach hdmi tvs to output 1 and use output 2 for vcrs. Have checked recent Amazon reviews for all the pieces. In every case at least one buyer said it stripped HDCP. My cable company , Optimum , is trying to push a combo cable box/modem that is so full of glitches vitrually not anyone wants it. You culd look on Amazon under Alitice 1 to se how much companies are putting costs ahead of quality. May not need the splitters for years but sure is a bear to get confirmations of what’s what.
Stephen
I’m intrigued that you’re using VHS tapes … is there any particular reason for this?
And yes, most cable companies cut corners or forget to do a proper user acceptance test
– anything for a buck I guess.
hans
Started taping in the first days of betamax. Back then round 1980 the tapes only recorded one hour and were $35 retail but could be had at Crazy Eddie’s ( electronic discount store ) for $ 20 each.
Prices dropped sharply when beta was replaced by VHS. Still have beta tapes and players.
Tape is an easier medium than disc for copying. in bulk. I have about 1000,000 hours of material. Mostly animal documentaries and films. It’s a lot easier to tape and store with tape , no need to finalize and much easier to locate a program just by looking at the reels. Tape is durable as are the machines which can last 10s of thousands of hours of recording and playing. A lot of space is needed to store tho. Also record off You Tube . Only have about 5,000 hours of tape left, always record in EP mode. I play on small screen tvs so the quality is fine with me.
Stephen
Oh wow, that sounds like a major undertaking. Impressive!
hans
The You Tube stuff I record with my Desk Top but it’s a Tekilin senior computer with limited ability to use apps so I have to use sites that don’t require downloads.
I used to buy tapes at the local Target and Walmart, then had to go to these stores throughout my area. Later I was only able to find them at bulk internet sellers . Tapes are long since gone. But I should have enough for a while. Do’t know id recording DVD players are still made would not like to use them . Probably have more animal docs and old TV movies ( the ones from the 80’s and 90’s were frequently more pleasing than theater films as they stressed dialogue and acting). Uk Tv films were also great until about ten years ago.
Stephen
Hello All,
I’ve been using an El Gato HD60S to create tutorial videos on adding/editing channels on ROKU, FireTV etc. As of today, the configuration no longer works. I keep getting the HDCP error each time I use it. After troubleshooting for some time, I have discovered that it’s only triggered once I turn on any middleware like El Gato Game Capture software or OBS etc.. I found that if I connected the EL Gato via HDMI to my TV WITHOUT any capture software running, it works fine however, the moment I turn any of it on, the error pops up. (This configurations looks like this: ROKU => HDMI Cable => El Gato HD 60s => USB C to PC USB Input AND => HDMI OUT on El Gato => TV) If I close the software, it resumes playing like normal. My configuration is: ROKU => HDMI Cable => El Gato HD 60s => USB C to PC USB Input. Are there any solutions that would remedy this? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you.
Quicksilver
From a completely non technical POV possibly the component in the Egalto that strips hdcp has worn ot and no longer strips thus allowing the encrypted signal to pass thru. If that’s the case you’d need a replacement Egalto
Stephen
Hi QuickSilver,
I’m actually surprised to hear the Elgato worked before. As far as I know the Elgato does not have the ability to strip HDCP. Mine never was able to strip HDCP, this is why I started looking at something to remove the HDCP (by accident found that some HDMI splitters would do this).
So what may have happened is that your Roku box got an update pushing HDCP now, where it may not have done so in the past?
hans
Hans,
I suspect you are correct. I will order a splitter to see if this corrects the issue. Thank you for your feedback. I will report back my outcome here for the benefit of others.
Quicksilver
hans
I’m not sure why the Elgato ever worked either. Possibly an update to the Roku as Hans suggested. The streaming boxes are annoying in that they require HDCP to be active at all times, not just when you are playing copy protected content. Maybe all all players work that way, I’m not sure. Possibly the Roku only required it during content playback at one point?
The capture cards/boxes have a pass through only mode. I suspect that works as HDCP is intact in that case. As soon as you start the capture software, it’s probably broken on purpose to stop recording of copy protected content. If all you need is 4k30 or less, either of the splitters I posted should work.
I ordered one more in the hope of finding a good 4k60 10 bit splitter. No Amazon reviews say it would work, but 2 or 3 people claim it works on Reddit. So we’ll see. I’ll report back if it does.
UltraHD HDMI 2.0 Splitter 1×2 Mirror Powered Auto Scaling Wall Mount, 4K60Hz YUV444 18Gbps, HDR/Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, EDID, Low Heat, Cascadable, Upgraded Firmware, ESD Protect 2 Port(1 In to 2 Out)
This Orei also works, but it is very finicky with 4k60. I only managed to get it stable by putting my HDFury Linker in front of it. Not sure why that works, although the HDFury I think does some signal conditioning. I am currently using it, but do not recommend it due to the finicky nature. It will work for a few seconds and then go green screen without the HDFury in front of it in the chain. It’s possible it just doesn’t get along well with the Elgato. Not sure.
OREI UltraHD 4K @ 60 Hz 1 x 2 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out 2 Port 4:4:4 8-bit – HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, 18 Gbps
Dave
Hi Dave,
I suspect the pass-through will literally skip the video grabber, so your TV will handle the HDCP request and returns a proper reply.
When the software activates the video grabber of your Elgato, HDCP suddenly will not be authenticated/handled, hence the HDCP error.
Looking forward to your findings!
hans
Dave,
Anxious to see if if the UltraHD HDMI 2.0 works.Please post here and let us know. Thank you.
Quicksilver
Dave can you confirm what splitters you have tested with a first generation HD cable box TV signal work ? I’m confused by all of the devices that have been mentioned in various posts. Very often a poster will write ” should work ” but which splitters have you used without any other devices in the chain to go from cable box signal to recording device ?
Stephen
I’ve tested all 4 now. Unfortunately the first 2 are the only ones that worked reliably for me. The last one below exhibits the same odd behavior where it will sync and get a pic, but then the screen goes all green in about 10-15 seconds. I suspect it has the same basic electronics as the OREI.
UltraHD HDMI 2.0 Splitter
So no joy on a 100% reliable 4k60 HDR splitter. I can get either the OREI or AVAccess to work using my HDFury in front of them, but it’s not a very stable connection when the display mode changes.
So if you don’t need 4k60, then either of these are still the best choices:
Techole 1 in 2 Outs HDMI Splitter 4K
4K HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out by OREI
Dave
Hi Dave,
unfortunately, the Amazon links you’ve posted won’t work internationally.
Reference links will try to find something matching in other countries, which about half the time does not result in the correct item
You’ll have to set Amazon’s OneLink to “Exact Match”.
hans
I had to update the links ro link to the correct items for those not living in the US.
hans
Thanks will probably order some more of the OREIs The Tcschole can’t be delivered to the US. Hans or Dave could you clarify if possible the part that involves the ELgato and capture card manipulation ? Does this seem to you to mean that a HDCP handshake hi def TV needs to be plugged into port 1 of the OREI in order for the port 2 to pass through an unencrypted signal ? I could do this if necessary with 19 inch hi def TVs on port 1 to be able to use port 2. Or does it seem the OREI will strip HDCP without ate assistance of the hdtv/port 1 connection ? Or is it not possible to know ?
Stephen
Hold on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I figured it out. When this 2nd 4k60 splitter did the green screen problem too, I started really wondering if it was something with my capture card. It was!
I didn’t have a display connected to the pass through HDMI port on the card. I didn’t need one, so didn’t think too much about it. Connecting one instantly made it work because the card passes the TV’s EDID through. The EDID mode on the Elgato software was set to “Merged” which was basically merging it’s internal EDID with a non-existent display.
So all FOUR splitters work!!!!
You’re welcome. :)
Dave
Awesome Dave!
Thanks for posting!
The approach you’ve used, looks a little like the “connect the first HDMI output port of a splitter to a legit device” trick that works with some splitters as well. Same thing: it abuses the EDID of the legit device to authenticate HDCP
hans
OK I found the Techole on Amazon. Just so I understand. The Techole splitter Amazon listing has all sorts of applications ( Playstation 4 etc ) but will it for sure work with standard HD TV .?
Stephen
The splitters aren’t specific to any type of tuner/player/cable box. As long as your source meets the specs of the splitter (doesn’t exceed them) then it should work. Of course like a lot of this stuff, YMMV as you’ve seen with my efforts. Although about 90% of my problems have come from trying to do 4k60 10-bit. I’ve even got a really old 1080p splitter that I bought for another reason and it works as long as the source is 1080p or less.
Dave
Sorry if I’m contradicting myself somewhat. I’ve done a little more testing today and found the AVAccess is the most stable of the 4k60 splitters. Definitely get that one if you want 4k60 rather than the OREI.
Dave
which is the AVAaccess splitter ? I don’t see it in your posts.
Stephen
It’s this one.
https://amzn.to/2suyUtc
Dave
If you’re in Australia, I had luck with the following splitter for removing HDCP:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/antsig-2-way-hdmi-4k-splitter_p0083493
I did find that it didn’t display a picture on one of my 2 amp phone chargers but the other 2 amp adapter worked. May’ve been a bad charger.
I’ve got it setup where my projector is run off the hdmi 1 output and my elgato hd60 s is running off the hdmi 2 output, works everytime, tested with PS4. Doesn’t work if the first hdmi output device isn’t connected or it’s turned off.
GoroUnreal
Thanks for sharing GoroUnreal!
Most posts are (because of Amazon) geared towards the US. Having a link for a local supplier is much appreciated (even though I’m not in Australia).
hans
Learned that the Altice 1 cable/modem I would have to use in the future uses 4K HDCP 2.2. Anyone using an old splitter with a 4K cable box, satellite company ? Techoe will only strip 1.4 HDCP or lower per manufacturer. Will call cable company but doubt they will know enough to answer question.
Stephen
Just spent a fool’s journey taking to the offshore reps who work for Optimum to try to find out if a 4K HDCP 2.2 signal can be accepted by a 1080 HDCP 1.2 or 1.4 hdtv, Was tod it could. Don’t know if this is correct. The manufacturer of the Tehole splitter states the product will not srip above 1.4 HDCP. Why would a HD TV made for HDCP 1.4 accept HDCP 2.2 and a splitter not able to ? Anyone have any ideas ?
stephen
I’ve become more confused about everything since I discovered that the Altice 1 by Optimum which is the device I would probably need to use in the future outputs 4 K only at HDCP 2.2.
I was getting set up for a standard 180 1.4 HDCP trasitioon. So my questions are this :
I have the digital / hi def to analog standard def converters but will the component that changes digital to analog work with 4 K as well as 1080 ? Tried to find listings on Amazon for digital analog converters and could not find a listing to review customer reviews. Could someone help me here /
If I would need to do yet another conversion from 4K to 1080 so I could do the digital to analog conversion I would need something that allows the 4 K signal to get to the digital o analog component so it would have to pass through HDCP 2.2. I tried to find asuch a component on Amazon but the listings were for audio converters. If there is such a component on Amazon could someone give me a link ?
As I wrote before the manufacturer in the Q & A section clearly states that the Techole splitter only strips HDCP up to HDCP 1.4 . Is anyone stripping HDCP 2.2 with it ?
One last question in the description to the AVAccess splitter the description states it is HDCP 2.2/1.4 cmpliant. I thought tht meant it passes the HDCP signal on. Is it certain that the AVAccess splitter strips the HDCP ?
Unless I can clear every problem I will not be able in the future to use Optimum equipment with my vcrs. I need help in finding solutions to these questions/problems.
Assistance with each of these difficulties would be gratefully accepted.
I did see a review for the Altice 1 in which the reviewer stated he was trying to get the Altice 1 to work with an analog TV. He called in tv repair people who hooked up a analog/standard def converter but it did not get a picture, don’t recall what was on the screen. I assumed the problem was HDCP but could it have been the 4 K issue as well and the TV guys either did not know as much as they should or were just pulling a con job.
I want to order the AVAccess splitters but maybe I’m facing more problems than there are component parts to do a work around ?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
That’s a lot of questions haha – but no problem! 😊
With HDMI capable devices (TV, Monitor, Projector, and Digital-to-Analog converters, etc): When connected to a HDMI source, a handshake will take place to determine the capabilities for the receiving device. So in your case, the source that can deliver 4K will ask the convert what it’s max resolution is (1080p), and in most cases the source device will then switch to the max resolution (1080p). So effectively you will be converting 1080p if your Digital-to-Analog converter can only do 1080p.
If you’re running into issue, you could try setting the source device (forced – in some kind of setting menu) to 1080p. I’d assume most devices can do this, since not everybody has a 1080p TV.
Note: Most splitters do not down-scale 4K -> 1080p. The resolution all depends on the HDMI handshake.
For example, my XBox One X can do 4K, but when connected to a 1080p TV, it will automatically switch down to 1080p.
By the best of my knowledge, if a device can only do HDCP 1.4, then it most likely will not work with a HDCP 2.2 source.
Unless of course, the source somehow can shift down to 1.4. But I have to admit that I may not be the best person to ask this.
Sounds like you need this setup:
Source (set to 1080p) -> Splitter that strips HDCP (1080p) -> Digital-to-Analog converter (1080p) -> VCR
Having said that; in your unique situation, converting 4K to VCR may not result in an better picture quality when compared to a 1080p source.
As with all of these splitters, your mileage may vary – so it may require some testing and possibly the purchase of a splitter that may not work.
hans
Need information about AVAccess splitter. I’ve been reading as many reviews as possible. Came across two that in combination confuse me.
First does this splitter strip HDCP 2.2 ?
One review stated the piece downscaled the signal from 4K to 1080 and user was able to view programing on 1080 HD TVs. which I have to think means that the HDCP 2.2 was stripped as 1080 tvs should not have HDCP 2.2…correct ?
But an answer from the manufacturer to another question stated that this spliter would not work with a HDCP 1.4 monitor which sounds as if it does not strip HDCP.
If the spliter does downscale 4k to 1080 how does it do that ? is there a setting ? that would solve half my problems, if it strips HDCP 2.2 that would solve the other. An answer to these questions would be much appreciated
Stephen
Oh wow – Having seen this description on the AV Access splitter, it seems this splitter does indeed support downscaling? Interesting!
If you scroll down on that page, you can find a contact address there: services@avaccess.com (phone US: 626-840-8817).
You could try contacting them, I’d consider trying by phone first if you’re in the US.
hans
Hans, in the description of the AVAccess splitter can you tell if this device strips HDCP 2.2 ? not any of the posts mention HDCP at all. DEvice is listed as HDCP compliant…does this mean it passes through( does not strip ) HDCP ?
In the proposed set up you listed for my needs you first have Source set to 1080 p …how would I do that if the Altice One cable box is 4 K ? then there’s the HDCP 2.2. . You wrote that there should not be a problem in dealing with all of the questions I presented but if the AVAccess does not strip HDCP 2.2 and this must be my origional source how can I strip the HDCP 2.2 ?
Stephen
Hans I read your post again and I see that you would expect the Altice One to automatically convert to 1080 when connected to a splitter. Do you think this would require that a HDTV be plugged into the splitter in port 1 to make the hand shake or is it possible that the splitter alone will make the handshake ?
I called Optimum ( Altice ) to ask about the 4K HDCP 2.2 problems if I were to use an older 1080 HCCP 1.4 TV. After a lot of confusion I was told that the Altice One will work with a 1080 HDCP 1.4 TV but I can’t trust that information.
Stephen
I don’t know the AVAccess, so I’m not sure what it is all capable of. Since it downscales 4K -> 1080p, I’d assume the input port uses at least HDMI 1.4, and maybe this is a requirement for the output ports as well. We don’t know how it authenticates HDCP … does it use its own or does it use the HDCP authentication of the connected TV/Device?
HDMI 1.4 supports 4K (@30fps if I recall correctly), so I’m fairly confident it would work. But older HDMI standards (HDMI 1.3) will possibly fail.
My recommendation would be to check out the return policy of said device, order it, test it, and return it if it doesn’t do what you’d want it to do.
The lack of information (most manufacturers will NOT publicly advertise stripping HDPC, even if their device does, and even if it would boost sales), is what we run into with all splitters that we order.
Some will work, some won’t …
hans
Am awaiting information about th AVAccess splitter as it is connected with HDCP 2.2. In the meantime I’ve purchased the ViewHD mn 3d splitters. Many reviews on Amazon about will it or nor remove HDCP about 2/3 state it will. Seems to have to do with the device that is receiving the signal. Can’t make out the lingo but would be worth a tech savy person’s time to read the detailed revies. Seems particular devices work with it and others will not. Maybe someone can sort this out.
Bought it because finally I found a reviewer who uses a splitter with Altice one. The review is from April 2019. Uses states he bought a Tv to use with Altice one . The TV and Altice did not work, he put in this splitter and the set up works. Says it only does 1080 which I don’t understand since Altice One is listed in the net as 4K. ( as well as HDCP 2.2 ) . ….any way I have to go with someone using a source I would use but still want the downscaling to 1080 and striping HDCP information on the AVAccess splitter so I can try to cover all the bases.
Stephen
I suspect that splitters that do strip HDCP, have some sorts of HDMI HDCP authentication “build in”, and since the AVAccess downscales, I’d assume this may have one as well.
I’m not sure if any of the visitors here has experience with the setup you’re looking at, but someone has to be the first to try it
Happy New Year and please keep us posted on your findings!
hans
I was looking through my posts and could not find the comments I left for the splitter I will now siscuss so I will do so now at length.
I just ordered the VIEW HD 2 port 1 x 2 powered HDMI mini splitter for 1080 p and 3D Model 3DH – 1 x 2 MN 3D from Amazon
Unlike other listings the many reviews for this product essentially do nothing but discuss its ability to strip HDCP.
About 2/3 of recent reviews say it will the other 1/3 say it will not.. The difference seems to be what it’s connected to.
Unlike the reviews for other splitters the reviews go into great detail about what set ups are used.because that’s the key. I do not have the tech knowledge to decipher the information but you guys shouls. This is the splitter to consideras so many recent reviews say it works. Perhaps one or more oy you can understand what it works with and what it does not work with…there are many, many examples in the various reviews.
I bought them because it is the only splitter for which there is a review from 4/19 about an Altice On cable box user who would not get his TV to work with Altice One. He put in this splitter and the TV and Altice One connected.
This splitter sould cover all of the uses you guys might have for it but I’d like to know what its lmitations are as far as what it does not work with, it should be there in the reviews for tech savy readers.
Meanwhile I could if I absolutly have to I cancall the AVAccess splitter people to ask them if their product strips HDCP 2.2 but ca someone who has the product tell me if it does or does not and how this knowledge was obtained ? From Hans posts I think various devices can clear the 4k/180 then to analog/standard definition problem by using the analog/standard definition converters after the source signal is dropped to 1080 by te Altice One dropping to 1080 in a handshake with a 1080 splitter but…
I am still concerned about dealing with HDCP 2.2 especially if the AVAccess splitter does not strip it. Can anyone explain how I might deal with this with the information they have come across.
Sorry for all of the questions but possibly my lead to the VIEW splitter may cear up most people’s needs here as I did want to make a positive contribution.
Stephen
The AVAccess absolutely does strip hdcp 2.2. It’s the one I’m using to record 4k60 HDR which requires hdcp 2.2. But as you said in one of your posts, success depends somewhat on the device you are connecting to, so YMMV.
There is always a way though. Worst case you could buy a HDFury device that will convert 2.2 to 1.4 and downscale. Bad news is that they are expensive. And somewhat complicated to use. This would be a last resort.
https://hdfury.com/
Dave
Dave thanks for the post. On what device are you recording ?
I looked carefully at the Q & A for the AVAccess with the answers provided by the company rep. It’s confusing but by combining two or three Q and As perhaps tou or someone can clarify wht I’ve read.
Company says this splitter will not get around HDCP protocols but says if it is connected to a HDCP compliant device it will work with say a 1080 HDCP 1.4 TV. Do you know if your recording device uses HDCP at all ? Company thus says it downscales the HDCP to 1.4 . but it obeys HDCP protocols that is does not strip.
As usual I seem to run into hard to understand information. On the phone a company rep ( offshore ) checked with someone then told me Altice One ( 4K HDCP 2.2 ) would play on a 1080 HDCP 1.4 set. I would not put much faith in this. As I wrote earlier I saw a review that stated Altice One and a new large screen TV were incompaible then the user put in a ViIEWHD splitter and the connection worked. It could have done that due to a down scaling of the HDCP.
Possibly the splitter company does not want anyone to know its product does strip ? otherwise I might have to use a HDTV 1080 on port 1 as well as the digital to analog 1080 to standard definition converters on port 2 to get to my analog vcrs ?
Dave is there any way for you to know if your recording device is HDCP protected ? If it is not then the AVAccess must be stripping. Is the source material to your recording device HDCP 1.4 or HDCP 2.2 ?
I feel I’m getting close to an understanding of what’s what but I’m not there yet.
Thanks to anyone for any further assistance.
Stephen
I had contacted the Fury people about this device. Got back an email that stated it needed a download to have it strip which would not work for me as I don’t think my Telikin PC could download that, the Telikn had limited downloading capability. A member of this group, might have been Hans posted a link for the needed download that the poster thought might still be working.
Are you using the Fury to strip HDCP without the download ?. For me this has ben a process of discovering unknowns and trying to make them knowns.
Stephen
Just to scale things down : the AVAccess agent who answers Q & A on Amazon stated that the splitter will not work with a device that is not HDCP compliant so if Dave you are recording on a device that is not HDCP protected from a source that has HDCP the AVAccess must be stripping. Since an Altice One user cleared up his new tv Altice One compatability problems with a VIEWHD splitter that splitter must also downscale HDCP as the Altice One with 4K will automatically downscaleto a 1080 TV. I might not need the AVAccess splitter but I will buy if I think it can do something the others won’t. I’m now up to about 25 splitters but they are cheap. I want the AVAccess splitter and really need to know if your recording device is HDCP protected. If it is not the AVAccess seems a good choice as it must be stripping.
Stephen
This is my device,
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-4k60pro
I guarantee that it is not HDCP compliant though. None of those cards are for good reason. I tried connecting my Roku directly to the card originally just to verify it would not work before staring my splitter buying spree. But feel free to research it if you want.
And yes, as I said, my content must be hdcp 2.2 as hdcp 1.4 does not support 4k. Any 4k capable tuner/player/etc… will be hdcp 2.2. Some may fall back to 1.4 for 1080p though, which may be why they told you the Altice will work with an older TV. I’d say there is a good chance of that, otherwise they would be forcing everyone to buy new TV’s to just use the new cable box. Seems unlikely.
And no, the splitter manufacturers are never going to advertise it. HDFury got sued in 2017 over that. Many years ago HDFury devices all stripped HDCP, but somewhere along the way to removed that capability and started only doing a 2.2-1.4 conversion. They won the lawsuit thanks to that.
https://torrentfreak.com/4k-content-protection-stripper-beats-warner-bros-in-court-1605xx/
Dave
About the AVAccess stripper, Dave do you know if the Elgato has HDCP of any kind ? The company guy who answers questions about it on Amazon at one point states it only works with 4K HDCP devices, in another he states it will work with any HDCP device. Woulf be very useful for me to know if there is any HDCP device in your chain other than the source. If there is not it must strip. Based on a post here it appears that old splitters will not down scale from HDCP 2.2 to HDCP 1.4 which means that having a lot f them stored up will not help in the future when all sources will have HDCP 2.2 or higher. Ay this point appears that a HDCP TV may be needed in port 1 of splitters to use my vcrs unless some splitters have HDCP in them ? Sound right ?
Stephen
I’m going to order some of the AVAccess splitters if only because it is HDCP 2.2. To need to use a HDTV for each of the two splitters I would use may be more trouble than I want to take on but I’ll go this far anyway.
Sometimes a piece of electronic equipment will be stops working after a time. Something that truly deserves this description is the Altice one by Optimum. Contraption is a combination of recorder, cable box and modem. It has so many major glitches the few people who try it send it back. Service for Optimum has gone from fair to atrocious sine Altice bought the company. Few people in the consumer base want anything like the Altice One . Will probably take years before some improved version of the Altice One is forced on customers so I have a long period to try to understand what I’m dealing with, HDCP will probably be upgraded by then so may have to start over. Curiousreaders may want to read the Amazon customers reviews for the Altice One. 10 % of the reviews are from users who say they like it when it works , the other 90% say its one star junk. And the company is still marketing it to clueless people who don’t think to check reports on the net.
Stephen
I had to at least temporarily cancel my Amazon orders for the AVAccess splitters as I was able to find a Q & A set of Questions about the ability of the AVAccess to strip HDCP.
The only person who wrote that it does never mentioned the source material or recording device he based his vien on.
Company rep whose English is shaky still claims will not send pcture to a non HDCP device.
Dave you clearly write that it strips HDCP 2.2. My tech knowlege is practically zero but I believe you are using ELgato to record ? and you believe your source material and the recording are HDCP 2.2. Is this correct ? If so how do you now this.
What is the source material device ? Is it possible that the AVAccess splitter imparts a HDCP 2.2 compliant code to the ELgato that gives it a handshake with your dource device ?
There isn’t any reliable Q & A response on Amazon that states the AVAccess splitter will work with a divice in the chain that is not equipped with HDCP 1.4 or 2.2.
From what I can gather you think your source is HDCP 2.2 ? Can you be sure ? Is it possible for the Elgato to become HDCP 2.2 equipped by being in the chain with the AVAccess and thus have the recorder and source make a handshake ?
Between my lack of knowledge , the inability of Amazon posters to properly use English and above all the posters not having a set up like mine I cannot sort things out.
The one poster about the ViewHD splitter who needed it to cget his new TV to work seems to indicate that splitter can scale down the HDCP but even the I can’t be sure will have to read the specs on his TV to see what HDCP it supports.
Stephen
I’ve given up on trying to make sense out of what splitter does what or what goes with what under what circumstances. . Ive put up the AVAccess question on the Amazon Q & A section o the listing. Can this device strip out HDCP 2.2 and send it to a device that des not have HDCP. Sounds pretty simple The manufactuer’s answer can be anticipated. Maybe someone can help with detailed example. Then there’s the conversion from HDCP 2.2 to HDCP 1.4 problem. The AVAccess manufacturer says it can do this but even if I put a small HDTV into port 1 have no way to know if HDCP is stripped on port 2. Unless it is would have to use another splitter that does not work with HDCP 2.2 but can strip 1.4…sound crazy.
Stephen
Even th Amazon Q & A is BS. Could not find Q & A that deals with HDCP. typed in question which took me to Q & A s not on listing page. After submiting my Q went back to Q & A section and my question s not there nor any way to get most recent questions. I recall seing such an icon when I put in my Q but it’s gone too along with the whole HDCP discssions.
Stephen
I’ve read that the ELgato cannot record HDCP material. is it possible that the AVAccess splitter makes the Elgato HDCP compliant rather than strip ?
Stephen
Probably going to give the AVAccess gizmo a pass as I won’t need to strip for years and by then I’d probably be dealing with HDCP 4.4. Would be nice to really have the data to know if the 2.2 version strips or not for future reference. The Altice One Experience is a great example of where America is today. Corporate sham and scam trying to peddle a botched on the cheap experiment to customers who instead of being treated as assets are insulted by a workforce that is there because it will work for not much.
If the Fury box were something I could understand I’d get a pair and be through with this splitter crapola. But complicated electronics is not my area of expertise so doubt if I’ll ever be able to avail myself of it.
Stephen
This may be a foolish idea but…I’m awarethat efforts to connect a HD to standard definition digital to analog converter have failed when people have tried to connect these converters to the Altice One cable box. I was always thinking that the problem was the HDCP. Maybe it was the 4K that the converters could not handle ?I’ve just reas that analog cables cannot carry HDCP. Anyone have any ideas about a splitter iadded to the chain, one that downscales 4K to 1080 that the analog/standard definition converters would now accept the signal but not carry the HDCP ?
Stephen
Have not been able to find a 4k to composite cable converter. At this point am thinking small HD TV on port 1 of a splitter with port 2 for vcr is the most likely possibility for me. One of the many questions I have is will any of my splitters allow a 4k signal to play on a 1080 small tv, that is will anything but the AVAccess downscale from 4k to 1080. Anyone have any ideas ?
Stephen
Here’s an even more Rube Goldberg set up : Altice one 4 K 2.2 HDCP to AVAccess slpltter with small HD on port one causing AVAccess splitter to deliver 1080 1.4 HDCP to small tv, then , if the AVAccess splitter does not strip the HDCP a second splitter to strip out the HDCP 1.4 then to analog/standard defintion converters, then to vcr. Best I can think of …or I’ll do video games, books and my vcr apess and drop TV. My VHS tapes will probably run out before Optimum comes up with something customers will accet…years away.
Stephen
My previous post didn’t make it. I’ll try again.
Yes I’m using an Elgato 4k60 Pro. No hdcp support.
Stephen I think you should just go with a 1080p splitter. I think there’s a good chance the newer cable box will work with it.
I emailed HDFury about updating my linker to strip HDCP. We’ll see what they say.
Dave
Oh and you can’t do 4k over analog AFAIK. So there will not be a cable or adapter to covert it to analog unless it downscales.
Dave
If I use thee 1080 splitter with the 4 K box ( may have to use an extra tv to put in port one ) will that 1080 splitter downscale the 4K to 1080 . My cable company said the 4K box will work with a 1080 TV ? If the splitter does not down scale 4K to 1080 I would have to use the AVAccess . As for the Fury , there is a post on this thread , maybe from about 6 months ago that has a link to the site that has the download required to strip, I remember seeing and going to it. The poster Hans ? did not know if it will still work. THe Fury company will probably send you the same information it did to me , that a download is requied to strip but did not give further information I can’t find the post on this thread that had the link to the Fury download for stripping. I know I saw it.
Stephen
I’ve done some investigation and thinking about the HD Fury products. I company did have a product that could strip HDCP 2.2 from 4 K …the integral 4K 60 4.4.4. but it’s discontinud due to lawsuits . I doubtif the link I mentioned for the HDFury to strip HDCP would be any good now as it was probably only for HDCP 1,4
Stephen
I’m going to order the AVA access splitters after all. They may down scale HDCP 2,2 to 1.4 . Company representative states splitter will work with 1080 1.4 output but other remark about it from him get squirley. I don’t thin the HD Fury products can stip 4K HDCP 2.2 now no matter what is done ,the one that could is no longer available
Stephen
I’ve gone ahead and ordered the AVAccess pieces . Since splitters are inexpensive no big moss money wise if they do not work.
After some additional searching today on other forums I’ve come to the conclusion that the possible AVAccess way of downscaling to connection to another 1080 splitter is the only way to possibly defeat 4K 2.2 HDCP…. This may not work but seeing as lawsuits are preventin marketing of anything that will strip 4K HDCP 2.2 directly further efforts to find splitters that will defeat HDCP 2.2 seem useless as Warner Brothers is looking for anything that can strip 2.2 . The removal of the HDFury Integral 4K 4.4.4. from their product line shuts the door on that.
I won’t be able to report on what I find due to lack of an ancrypted signal. So I’m staying with my set up until I can’t get repacements which will probably not be for a few years.
The information about the HDFURY Integral converter was available at least two years ago but until today I’d never come across mention of it. TWo years ago I was not even thinking about HDCP problems only analog/standard definition problems and the forums I was on never specfically mentioned HDCP at all just stuff like ” it may not wor “. ,
If I had been looking at forums with ore knowledgeable people who could actually comunicate in English I would have bought the HDFURY Integral devices . Hard o believe it’s not until today I became aware thet existed.
I expected something like this. Anythime something new comes along it brings problems. Not only do I have to use a Telikik PC to get online but were it not for the excellent suport the company provides I would have never have bee able to deal with internet issues they solved. Could not even follow what they did even when they were doing it.
Stephen
From what I’ve read in other forums tech savvy people were not having a problem with HDCP ntip 4K stopped tem in their tracks. Have not seen anyone with a solution now, just mention of the now discontinued HDFURY Integral
Stephen
I have an HDFury Integral 4K I may be willing to sell. It has the “special” firmware installed.
Grim Reaper
is this the now discontinued HD Fury Integral HK 60 ? or the Integral 2 still offered for sale. If the latter I assume it did not strip HDCP 2.2 out of the box as does/did the 60 model. If it is not the Integral 4K 60 model but the replacement which will I assume not strip out of the box how was the unit changed to strip 2.2 ? How have you tested it to strip ?
Stephen
It is the earlier version, not the current Integral 2. I installed specially provided firmware supplied by HD Fury.
Grim Reaper
I would have thought that the unit was HDCP stripping capable ready to go out of the box seeing as a law case was bought by Warner Brothers against HDFury which ended its availability.
Stephen
It did not strip HDCP when I got it, so I contacted HDFury and they supplied the firmware.
Grim Reaper
Well my AVAccess splitter is working perfectly for me. No handshake problems, no green screens. I’m able to record directly from Amazon Prime and Netflix.
I do think the newer cable box will down convert to 1080p Stephen. Even all of the 4k streaming boxes do that (Roku, Fire TV, etc…).
Dave
I don’t mind if I wind up with redundancy , just need what I need. Good job to let us know anout the AVAaccess The Atice One will down grade to 1080 the company was iffy if it down grades 2.2 to 1.4 .
Stephen
What device are you using to record with?
Grim Reaper
Just talked to HDfury guys on their support server and they were super helpful, drove me thru the process of updating one of their latest unit with special firmware and it works like a charm !
Malone
Hi Malone!
That is great to hear the HDFury folks are helpful!
It seems less and less companies actually care to support their customers anymore …
What type of setup are you using? 1080p or 4K?
hans
Dave what model # splitter is working for the 4k HDCP removal?
thanks
Bob
Dave
Forgot will the AVA also do 2.0/2.2 HDCP
Bob
I have several of the AVA . As I wrote earlier can’t teast due to lack of encrypted signal of any kinf. Company poster answered me that item will not strip 2,2 HDCP, don’t know if this is correct but in an answer to another question from another poster stated it will downscale to 180 and may downscale HCCP to 1.4. I have other splitters that shouls/may strip 1.4 so maty have to use two splitters, but that’s years away
Stephen
Yes it strips hdcp 2.2. It has to for me to be able to record UHD streams from Netflix, etc…
I even bought a 2nd AVAccess splitter I linked above and it works just as well.
Dave
Dave are you taking a 4K source and recording with a 4K device ?
Stephen
Dave
Is there a model # AVAaccess and where can it be bought? Any pictures??
Bob
Bob
There’s a link above but it’s a bit buried already. Here you go.
UltraHD HDMI 2.0 Splitter 1×2 Mirror Powered Auto Scaling Wall Mount, 4K60Hz YUV444 18Gbps, HDR/Dobly Vision, HDCP2.2, EDID, Low Heat, Cascadable, Upgradate Firmware, ESD Protect 2 Port(1 In to 2 Out)
Dave
Does not ship to Canada.
Grim Reaper
I just checked Amazon Canada. Found the eSynic 4K hdmi slpitter . In the Q & A sction the seller states it does bypass HDCP 2.2. Other posts confim this . Seems that a HCCP 2.2 compliant device needsto be connected to port 1 and port 2 is stripped. Othe users have confirmed this. Canada is ntsc same as U S
Stephen
Seller will not ship to US but seems this is the real deal tho may be less than durable
Stephen
If anyone is testing the one available in Canada; please post a link
.
p.s. NTSC/PAL/SECAM – none of these matter anymore with HDMI.
hans
Looks like the same one. You get ripped on the price though.
HDMI 2.0 Splitter
Dave
Canadians always get robbed.
Grim Reaper
The same eSYNC splitter is on the Amazon US site. I thought it looked familiar. The one on the US site does not have any reference to HDCP stripping but many reviewers complain it is not HDCP compliant but that it does break quickly. Seller is either purposely not going to HDCP matters for fear of lawsuit or these are different models.
Stephen
By way of thanks for all the great information I found here let me add a data point. The “Techole HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver 1.4 HDCP Powered HDMI Splitter” from Amazon for $11.99 as of 1/19/20 works fine.
The original setup:
Roku Premiere+ -> Avermedia ER310 DVR -> 2008 model Samsung Series 7 750 HDMI 1.3 DLP TV.
Trying to record on the Avermedia results in “Recording prohibited” error.
Then with
Roku -> Techole HDMI out 1 -> TV &
Techole HDMI out 2 -> Avermedia
the DVR is happy to record the output of the Roku. I made all the HDMI connections before applying the USB power to the splitter, if that matters. It then takes maybe 10 seconds of blank screen while the splitter is booting up or whatever it’s doing and then the video appears. I didn’t do any quantitative measurements but subjectively I don’t see any difference in video or audio quality.
Note: the listing says “support HDCP 1.4 (will not bypass HDCP)” whatever that means but it does indeed let the ER310 record video.
Michele
Hi Michele!
Thanks for sharing, it is very much appreciated. I presume you mean this HDMI splitter at Amazon.com.
Since there is no conversion in the splitter, audio and video quality will not be affected by the splitter.
One observation:
This splitter is up to HDMI 1.4 compatible, which means it can do 4K, but “only” at 24 frames per second.
HDMI 2.x can do this as well, but also allows up to 50 or 60 frames per seconds.
You will probably not see the difference – my guess is that most people will not notice the difference in frame rate.
It also depends on what you Avermedia can handle and what the settings are on the Avermedia software.
Additionally, HDMI 1.4 only seems to support 8 bit video (16,777,216 colors), where as HDMI 2.x supports 10 bit (1,073,741,824 colors) and 12 bit (68,719,476,736 colors) colors.
In short: 8 bit means 256 gradations (or levels) per color (red, green, blue), 10 bit means 1024 gradations per color, and 12 bit means 4096 gradations per color.
You may see the difference when there is a color “fade” from one color to another, say a really fine grey fade.
With 8 bit you may see a clear number of “steps” in the fade.
With 10 or 12 bit, if your TV supports this, and if you Avermedia supports this, you will see less of this or you will not see this effect at all.
1080p will be supported to its full extend though (assuming the reasonably standard 8 bit colors for 1080p).
Thanks again for reporting – this will be helpful for others.
Hans
I had to chuckle a little about the product page for that video recorder. It has a statement “Please do not use hdmi splitters to bypass copy protection”. Almost feels like they are really giving their customers a hint. Lol
Dave
Heh heh. Yes indeed, I took that as more of a suggestion than a warning. It appears in a bunch of places in the user manual and on the box too. But I’m only interested in recording content that might appear at 3 AM or if I’m not home so I can watch it at a more convenient time. I’m not in the video piracy/torrent posting business.
Michele
I presume you mean this HDMI splitter at Amazon.com.
Yes, that’s the one. Since my 12 year old TV is only HDMI 1.3 and 1080P, the limitations of this device weren’t a problem for me. The Avermedia ER310 should also be able to handle 1080P (though I’m still trying to figure out its obscure UI).
Michele
Awesome – thanks for confirming
Hans
These two paragraphs on the product page seem to contradict two of the points above:
✔Wide Compatibility – Compatible with HDMI 1.4/ 1.3/ 1.2, support HDCP 1.4(will not bypass HDCP), Techole HDMI splitter suitable for most devices with standard HDMI interface. Input: Computer, XBox 360, XBox one, PS3, PS4 Pro, Fire Stick, Blu-Ray DVD player, Satellite Receiver, Route Roku, Chromecast, PC, Projectors etc. Output: HD-Ready, Full HsD TVs, Apple TV, Samsung TV, monitors etc.
✔4K Crystal Clear Picture – Techole 4K HDMI splitter supports resolutions, including 3D, 4K x 2K@30hz, 1080P @30hz, 1080P @60hz. You can share the most luxurious video and audio with your friends or families.
I’m willing to risk this one more time but am afraid of getting on Amazon’s shit list if I have to return yet another of these devices. (They *do* have a shit list and I was on it once some years ago – took a couple of years to get off it. When you’re on their shit list they do *nothing* nice for you by way of service… Not worth losing privs over a $10 purchase…)
So you’re saying that https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07YZFHCLR/ definitely strips HDCP despite explicitly saying it doesn’t?
G from TX
Maybe this clarifies the contradiction:
HDMI 1.4 supports up to 4K @ 30Hz.
HDMI 2.x supports 4K @ 60Hz.
I can imagine Amazon not being thrilled about returns hahah … and I wouldn’t want to be on their shit list either
Hans
All I can say is that it strips HDCP with my setup: a Roku Premiere+ feeding a 2008 HDMI 1.3 Samsung DLP TV and a 2020 Avermedia ER310 PVR. I don’t know enough about HDMI and HDCP to know if that means it will also work with later versions of HDMI, 4K and all the rest of that stuff. YMMV, I guess.
Michele
I have 2 splitters I bought about 2 years ago and take care of the HDCP problem.
The Aver Media310 works great for recording as I have 2 of them problem is the box getting set to my Xfinity box I cant program the 310 to control my cable box for recording to change channels. And 3am in the morning recording would be nice to not have to be at the 310 to push the record button.
If anyone has found a way to program for Xfinity cable boxes with the Avermedia 310 please let me know.
thanks
Bob
Forgot to add AverMedia company was of no help and no support very bad
Bob
That’s a good point. I don’t mean to drift the thread but I have the same problem with the Roku and since it doesn’t even have an IR port, the 310 can’t control it at all. My plan is to write a little Arduino program that will control the 310 via its IR port and the Roku via its LAN interface. Add a nice UI and it should work.
Michele
Is there an analog signal to digital converter on the market ?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
there are actually quite a few … I assume you mean component or composite video to HDMI.
For example Amazon (USA, Europe) offers quite a few variations, and I’m sure AliExpress as well.
Hans
My exact situation would be to have the analog signal from a vhs player via coaxial cable going into a HD TV by way of the screw in post on the TV. Hans I recall that you wrote in a prior post that on at least some newer HD TVs this post takes only a digital signal. I presently hae several analog and HD tvs that will take an analog signal but in the far furure I possibly need other TVs to take the output from an analog vcr. THis would assume a TV that only takes a diigital signal thry the side screw in post would accept a digital standard definition signal…would this be so or would the TV only work with 1080 diigital ?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
The coax cable may not be the best or easiest route to go, mostly because of the poor audio/video quality and because of the need for extra devices to convert (lowering qualit potentially even more).
Most VHS players have a component or component output (both use RCA connectors, sometimes also called “tulip” connectors) and in the interest of complexity and picture quality I’d use these … if your VHS player has these.
There may also be a S-Video connector on your VHS. These days it seems used less commonly, and the connector carries a video quality between Component and Composite.
If your VHS only has S-Video, then you will have to look for a HDMI converter that support S-Video – there are a few listed here.
Note: if you’re in Europe, then your VHS may have a so called SCART connector, which actually holds composite and/or component signal (depending on the implementation of the SCART connector). This connectors is something you will not encounter in the US or Canada.
So In that case you’d be done with either a Component-to-HDMI converter or a Composite-to-HDMI converter (that does, or does not support S-Video).
In order of quality:
The loss of quality is related to “component” signals being mixed (S-Video and Composite). With RF audio is mixed in it as well.
So lets say this is not an option and you need to stick to coax, then your TV must has to support the “old school” RF signal (analog TV receiver).
The RF signal from your VHS is intended for UHF or VHF “analog” TV signal – as if your VHS player was a TV station – and that is why you will need to find the signal of your VHS on your TV as if it was a TV station (the channel used by the RF modulator in your VHS to “broadcast” the audio and video).
If you TV has an RF connector, then I’d try that first – I think there is a reasonable chance that this work right away, and if it doesn’t work it will not cause any damage (by the best of my knowledge).
You TV may or may not support this though … I’ve noticed that most modern HDTV’s started including a digital TV variant, and more and more seem to be dropping the support for analog TV signal.
So if you TV has an RF connector, and hooking up the VHS doesn’t work, and your VHS does not have component, S-Video, SCART or composite output, then you would need a RF Demodulator.
These RF demodulators will typically pull composite video and stereo audio from the RF signal.
So the resulting output can be plugged in your TV as composite signal (yellow RCA for video, and red and white RCA for audio).
I suspect that in the near future analog video will be removed from TV’s. More and more new TVs no longer come with analog inputs.
If that is the case, then you’ll have to invest in a small analog-to-HDMI converter as well.
Too much info?
Hans
Thanks Hans. I’ll try to further clarify my situation. I have some beta tapes as well as vhs tapes. The beta recorders are simpler than the VHS recorders. The beta ones only have the coxial cable inpu/out put . I have three small HD tvs that will take an analog signal thru the RF screw post so the beta recorders will work with them. If these TVs should no longer work and new HD tvs will not tale analog thru the RF pst what kind of analog to HDMI convetter will work ? I am in the US . Is such a converter listed on Amazon USA ?
My VHS recorders all have the three plug , red white yellow RCA outputs , I assume they are outputs, never tried them., in the front of the machine. I assume these would be similar to the coaxial cable output. The HD tvs I have all have the five plug inputs but do not have 3 pluf inputs . What device will allow a connection from the analog 3 plug RCA piece to the 5 plug digital RCA piece so that the analog VHS signal can be played on a HD TV thru the 5 plug input on the TV ?. Is such a connector/converter ( 3 plug to 5 ) available on Amazon USA ?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
If you want to make sure everything will work in the future, you may want to invest in a so called RF-DEmodulator.
Something like this device at Amazon USA (about $80). Caution though: I have not tested this device (I don’t think I even have an RF device to test with)
It will convert your Coax/RF signal to composite video. Converting to better standards (component, S-Video or even HDMI) will probably have no added value, since RF signal is already of a lesser quality than what composite video can offer.
This device will (theoretically) would solve the issue for your Beta VCRs.
Next I’d get a composite-to-HDMI converter. They can be found at Amazon US for $10-$15 a piece (list at Amazon).
I do have one that looks like this one at Amazon US and it works (I use it with an old Commodore 64) … but other models may be better or cheaper. Your mileage may vary.
I’d recommend this approach, which covers both scenarios and would be the least expensive:
Betamax -> RF-Demodulator -> Composite-to-HDMI converter -> HDMI TV
and
VHS -> Composite-to-HDMI converter -> HDMI TV
All using the composite format and all resulting in a HDMI signal (any HDTV should support this).
Coming back to your question to convert it composite to component video (5 plugs).
Personally I would not invest any money in that. The quality of composite video (yellow RAC) is below that of component video (5 plugs).
Converting it will not only not add anything to it, it most likely will even degrade the quality even more (every conversion step potentially degrades quality).
Also note: I didn’t see such a converter at Amazon, and probably for the exact reason I’ve just mentioned.
TIP:
If you have the needed technical skills: you may be able to skip getting the RF-Demodulator in your VCR and get composite right away, even if the VCR doesn’t have a composite output. In most VCRs, composite video signal is most likely being used (internally) anyway. This signal is internally fed to the build in RF-modulator (together with the audio) and converted to RF by an RF-Modulator (see picture below).
So theoretically you should be able to bypass the RF-Modulator in your VCR and get the composite video signal straight from there – and if so: this will result in a better quality than using the RF signal.
To do this you’ll need the technical skills, or find someone who has (someone who repairs VCRs maybe? most experience HAM radio people will probably know how to do this as well).
I’d pick this route if I could. But again; be warned that you’d need the skills to do so (or have a spare VCR where you don’t mind that it breaks), or find someone with the skills to do it for you.
An internal RF-modulator typically looks something like this (typically vertically placed):
Hans
A user on the Dutch version of this article just reported a dirt cheap (about $2) splitter from AliExpress that seems to work:
HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080p 4K 1×2 HDCP Stripper 3D Switcher 2 Port Hub For HDTV DVD PS3 Xbox TV BOX Monitor
If other can confirm then please post here.
Hans
Trying to purchase, says “can not deliver to United States”. Even after changing shipping methods.
G from TX
Oh wow, AliExpress saying it cannot deliver to the US … that is a new one for me …
Hans
Seems To be just what I would need . Much thanks
stephen
I hope this one works, since I didn’t try it myself. But for $2 one can take the risk, right?
The postage normally would be even more than $2
Hans
I just purchased this HDMI splitter on Amazon and it tricks my PC into seeing uninterrupted signal when I switch my HDMI KVM:
1×2 HDMI Splitter by OREI – 1 Port to 2 HDMI Display Duplicate/Mirror – Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P High Resolution & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) – Adapter Included
I use the Silicon Dust HDHomeRun app and without the splitter between my PC and the KVM, every time I switched PC’s, the HDCP would trip and interrupt playback of any DRM channels.
I’m a happy camper now with Windows 10, although I still miss the TV guide that Windows Media Center had on Win7.
Erik N
Hi Erik,
thanks for taking the time to confirm this splitter is working for you (to effectively strip HDCP).
I’ve used HDHomeRun in the past as well in combination with KODI, there is a special HDHomeRun Addon for that.
KODI itself has several Addons that support EPG (you may have to Google that or look in the KODI addons repository on your KODI setup) – but I’ll admit; I’ve never used EPG in KODI.
May be worth a try to look into though.
Hans
Lively discussion here about this. As some have observed, perhaps I got “lucky” and received a working unit on first try. Others clearly have not been so fortunate.
This unit is constructed in a sturdy metal housing. 20200205_171132_resized_1.jpg
181589
Here is a view of the PC board: 20200205_171104_resized_1.jpg
178350
And a close-up of the chip: 20200205_171051_resized_1.jpg
234331
Hoping this helps others as I learned a lot from reading this discussion.
Erik N
Hi Erik!
Unfortunately, your links seem to refer to your INBOX so we can’t look at them …
I can embed them manually if you’d email me the pictures (webmaster at tweaking4all dot com).
Hans
That’s weird, because I bought one from that exact link just over a year ago and it did *not* work.
G from TX
Yeah, sellers/manufacturers keep changing things … so finding a splitter that strips HDCP does require some luck
Hans
Lord help me, I’m a glutton for punishment. This is my final effort and if this doesn’t work I’m giving up. I’ve ordered all 3 of the splitters that supposedly currently work and are available from Amazon at a total of about $70. Will report back on Thursday as to which actually worked. I doubt my brother-in-law will ever appreciate how much effort has gone into his 2018 Christmas present :-/
1) https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Certified-Duplicate-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B00F5R9TNM/
2) https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Splitter-Out-Aluminum-Supports/dp/B07DQBY5TX/
3) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5R9TNM/ (which didn’t work when I tried it a year ago so I really do not know why I should expect it to work this time.)
GTX
Your brother-in-law is a lucky guy …. since 2018? Haha wow!
Hans
GTX,
I went thru the same same. Spent way too much money trying to track down a splitter back in the HDMI 1.3 and 1.4 days, so I appreciate you taking the plunge.
I don’t have any 4K gear yet to be able to test these out and await your findings. So, Thank You, from all the people who come to this thread looking for answers but don’t leave a response!
And a hearty THANK YOU to Hans who started this dialog several years ago and continues to follow thru with it!!
Trev
And also, THANK YOU to all the people who have participated in reporting their findings on the working and non-working HDCP stripping HDMI splitters!
Trev
Thanks Trev, you’re most welcome!
Hans
By the way I do now have a 4K TV ( https://www.amazon.com/seiki-se39uy04-1-class-ultra-hdtv/dp/b00q2vfc4u ) although I don’t believe any of my video sources generate 4K, so really all that TV does for me is upscaling of a 1080p picture. But at least it’s 4K compatible so may add value to my testing. It was a spare TV I had in my bedroom that I moved to the living room when our old 65in plasma finally died. But mainly I’ve been using a projector as my main screen for the last several years. I’m actually on my third projector now, that’s how long I’ve been using them. It gives a 100in display on one wall of my living room. Just to complicate things a little more, the projector is fed over a wireless extender! (And to make my setup even more complicated, my windows PC feeds into my HDMI switcher using a VGA to HDMI cable, which means no audio, so I have to feed the computer audio through a small amp and an hdmi audio injector – but that causes audio lag so I have a separate set of speakers for when I use the PC for net video (eg occasional viewing of TV from Europe or Canada via VPN). Makes for a total system that is way way too complex and so the only sensible place to put the splitter & recorder is on the output side of the 8-input HDMI switcher, with the consequence that I do at least have the opportunity to test the splitter with multiple input sources, not just the legitimate ones like the gaming system. (fire tv, roku, chromecast, iPazzcast, PC, Blu Ray, etc)
GTX
Haha, yes that is a pretty complex setup you have there.
But I very much can imagine how you got there …
Hans
Wanted to point out that two of the devices mentioned as being available at Amazon are the same device:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ (HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included) $13.99
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZFHCLR/ (HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included, Grey) $11.99
Grrrr.
GTX
The picture and description indeed suggest they are the same.
Probably all China stuff anyway.
On that note:
1) I have ran into situations where 2 products looked the same, but in the end were slightly different when they arrived.
2) I also noticed that some sellers start listing another item (sometimes an item not even related to what they are selling) so they can piggy-back along on the high ratings the original product got at Amazon.
Hans
Two things : If I had an encrypted signal cable box I would sort out all this , what has become nonsense, about what works and what does not and what needs to be done to get things working. Can’t believe that after all these posts you guys are still fumbling around WITHOUT DEFINITIVE ANSWERS !!!I must have 35 splitters from maybe nine different manufacturers. As to the Orei splitter : go to YouTube, put in how to strip HDCP. There is one user whp dmonstrates that the OREI DOES work as he shows in the video. He’s using a PC I believe and he shows how without the OREI he gets a ” will not play screen ” due to copyrite, Then he puts theOREI into the circuit and it plays., this was done in the past few months Like the man said : check it out. I’ve discovered that in today’s world customer service reps for companies will provide anything but correct answers, but I always sort it out and get the actual lay of the land. I’m, the ultimate pessimist but I suspect that several of the pieces I have will work if handled in the appropriate manner . This thread resembles an Abbott and Costello routine. btw I would not trust copany statements on what a piece of equipment can and cannot bo. I just asked a company if a demodular will accept an an analog signal ; the answer…they don’t know. Definitive answers to the possibilities of every splitter entioned in the thread shouls have been clearly defined by now. When I first found this thread the early posts listed about six splitters ” that worked ” later posts showed that all of them did not work, at least at the time of the posts, which were maybe two years after their first mention. . I’d think that as part of poster’s investigation You tube videos would be viewed. If memory serves the You Tube poster tested two different splitters recently and both worked . Since he was not using the set up I have I could only know that with HDCP protected signals both splitters worked. That’s more concrete evidence I’ve come across than the years I’ve been viewing this discussion.Stephen.
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
I fully understand and feel what you’re saying …
The issue with fumbling around and no definite answers is because manufacturers will never list or guarantee that their HDMI switch strips HDCP.
On top of that: Manufacturers often change the internal electronics in their HDMI switches, and often these changes may or may not disable the HDCP stripping.
Naturally, the manufacturer is not going to advertise these changes either.
To make it even worse: the seller may have a mix of devices in stock: some are the model that does strip HDCP, and some do not strip HDCP.
So in the end: it always remains a guess.
Here we are just trying to share with others, which models we found to do the HDCP stripping.
But even then, it seems to require some level of luck to actually get the one that strips HDCP.
The YouTube video you’re referring to: if this guy would order the exact same splitter again, today, then he may find that one to work or not work as well.
To maintain a list of working devices, we’d have to take them apart and see what particular components (chips and/or firmware for the more advanced and more expensive devices) were used. I assume that most users may not want to do this, but even if they all would: when ordering a HDMI splitter, you’d still not know (at the time of ordering) if you got the exactly right model/version or not – the seller wouldn’t know and the manufacturer would not reveal this information anyway.
Like you said: companies can not, or will not, provide this level of information.
Hans
Stephen, I’m a little confused by some of your posts. You say you have 35 splitters but from what I understand you to have said, you haven’t actually tried any of them? This is all in preparation for getting a new cable TV box, right? Why not just wait until you get the new box and then try your 35 splitters and see if one works, before looking for even more hardware. Also unless there is something really magical about this expected cable box, don’t you have a single HDCP encrypted HDMI source in your home that you could test against right now? And I don’t get the relevance of your slow PC that you keep mentioning – where does the PC come in to the HDMI path? And you’ve mentioned that you’re on a slow dialup – everyone I know in the Netherlands has high bandwidth data – even the poor souls in deepest Limbabwe – is it really not available where you live? If I’ve misunderstood your situation, maybe you could summarize for us because I bet there is a solution available for you that we could suggest if only we understood the underlying situation. Is there a current problem, if so, what is it? If the problem is in the future, why do you not expect one of those 35 splitters you already own to work? What HDMI sources do you currently have and if the answer is None, wouldn’t buying a cheap dvd player with HDMI out to test with make more sense than buying 35 splitters on spec? (Not criticising; genuinely trying to understand in order to help)
GTX
I, too, wish to thank all the good participants for bringing the valuable feedback to the forum, and to Hans for keeping it going.
Hans, maybe there is a way to maintain a lists of the models which have worked so far. What do you think?
Michael
I’ve thought about this a few times (and I think Stephen would appreciate this as well).
The issue would be that we’d need to take apart the HDMI splitter and determine the used chip (including version number) and/or firmware.
This is all very possible of course, but I’m not sure how to collect all the models. I for one do not have the time or funding to just buy every single model on the market. As you can see: back in 2015 I tried starting such a list … but it’s a challenge to maintain.
If anyone has a good suggestion, then I’d be happy to see what I can do on my end (website) to implement this.
Hans
Hans, thanks for that. The light is beginning to dawn in my head.
Of course that makes a lot of sense. I had forgotten with component changes in the very same model.
So my suggestion to everyone is to listen to the very latest purchase that solved the problem and quickly order from the same place and from the same stock. That would be the most logical way to get a good one.
Thanks again.
Michael
You’re welcome!
Listing the last successful purchase is kind-a what is happening in this thread, but it’s not really a guarantee that it will work.
.
Identifying used chips or firmware (or model number and/or serial number – which on my splitters do not seem to exist) isn’t either, since one would only find out after having purchased a splitter
Maybe we should look at the complexity of a splitter and start an Open Source project so we can build them ourselves (yikes!).
Hans
Well, there is https://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=5308 …
GTX
Cool find!
I wonder how far he got with this project.
Hans
Well blow me over! The first of 4 has just arrived and *IT WORKS*. Swapped it in (for an old working Orei) and instantly my TV picture came back. Although that is not an exhaustive test[*], it is the first time that has happened in several years. I actually have a working stripper from many years ago – originally bought to allow me to show TV on a projector and subsequently found other uses; one of which was to use with a video-game recorder… which my brother-in-law who is a heavy gamer saw, so I bought him a game recorder as a Christmas present some years ago along with an Orei splitter. Needless to say that splitter was one of the later generation that did not strip HDCP and thus started the saga reported here. I can now give him this splitter to complete his present. Another happy customer.
Oh – I almost forgot – it was the Techole device which I got at this link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZFHCLR/ ( HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included, Grey )
Tomorrow I should have another delivery coming with a second Techole from a different link (a mistake on my part) and two others. So I expect at least one of those to work and maybe 2 more. If they do I’ll hang on to them as spares in case there’s another purge.
G
[*: 8-input HDMI switcher with various devices -> splitter, splitter -> projector, splitter -> game recorder -> TV. So quite a lot still to test]
GTX
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
Your brother-in-law will be happy!
Keep us posted on the other models you’re about to receive.
Hans
OK guys, here is the final word on the 4 devices that have been posted in the last month:
BOTH the techole devices worked out of the box.
The Orei device and the AV Access device DID NOT.
Now it may be that the other two can be made to work if you jump through hoops and connect just the right devices and power stuff up in exactly the right order, but any solution that requires such shennanigans is not for me. Too many power-outs and stuff coming back up in random orders. For me it has to work every time regardless of power-up order and right now the *only* one that seems to behave that way is the Techole.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQBY5TX/ (HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included) $13.99
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZFHCLR/ (HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out – Techole 4K Aluminum Ver1.4 HDCP, Powered HDMI Splitter Supports 3D 4K@30HZ Full HD1080P for Xbox PS4 PS3 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player Apple TV HDTV – Cable Included, Grey) $11.99
So I recommend that folks still needing one of these get the Techole now before they remove this facility from it. The two above appear identical apart from the price and the colour. Btw ‘grey’ is actually silver and IMHO looks marginally better than the black one. And $2 less doesn’t hurt either.
GTX
Thanks GTX for confirming!
So the Techole device seem OK at the moment. Skip Orei and AV Access.
Also good to know that $2 is charged for the color difference
Hans
The video on You Tube tat has a wworking OREI is only 5 months old and there is a very recent post here to state that the AV Acess works without mention of stipulations. For me it’s problematic to note that to my recollection nobody is working with a cable box signal so I cannot make any determinations as what I have would work. I do have several Techoles . There are at least four variables to consider : source material, batch of splitter, age of splitter and way in which pevices are connected. The poster who found the Techole to work may have had a different experience with different source material. The Aaccess does down scale from 4 K to 1080, manufacturer was not sure if it downscaled HDCP from 2.2 to 1.4 , if it does it would allow earlier splitters that strip 1.4 to work if used in tandem.
Stephen
You’re right; there are quite a few aspects to consider.
As for a source, I’m guessing that any device that can play Netflix, will have HDCP enabled (I believe it is a requirement of netflix).
When it comes to downscaling, I think this only affects the video resolution. I doubt it will down-convert HDCP version.
Hans
I just checked reviews on Amazon for the OREI from three weeks ago. At least two users wrote it stripped HDCP without any fuss. And one was using the Altice 4K cable box. In that case the Altice was going into an older plasma tv but the connection did not make the required handshake with the plasma tv without the OREI.
Stephen
Maybe this can be batch related? That user may have gotten an “old” one?
It will remain a guessing game of course.
Hans
Different connections can result in different results for minor reasons. I’m concerned about losing data on my PC which is a silplified computer. I copy from pc to system storage at the company’s computers, local stage on external hard drives and external hard drive to external hard drive. Some files will copy in one scenarion but not in another in different ways which requires usually a change of the description of the file to be used ( renamed )
Stephen
Another area I’ve now considered is the speed on my pc which is 7 years old. It is slower and has more freezes on the net than in former years. I’ve discussed it with the company reps. While the amount of e mails and favorites and theinreased ads on the nets are factors all the reps think the pc’s age is the biggest rason…no atempt to try to sell me a more recent model/. If the way circuits handle signals can be influenced by age would not surprise me that different signals tally affect how chips handle them . I’m aware that source material has been cited in this thread as a consideration for splitter effectiveness, t has been downplayed. After thinking abour everything I’ve read I believe the source material and the device on the other end of the splitter are more important than the batch from which a splitter is shipped. The guy on Amazon using the Altice 4K cable box and an older plasma tv with the post having been written 3 weeks ago is the closet set up to the one I would use. I cannot really put too much value in any test that does not start with a 4K HDCP 2.2 cable box that goes into an old ( no handshake ) TV. All tests mentoned here must have the whole chain of connections to be a good gauge of what I should expect,. Stephen
Stephen
The most import part of “the process” is between the video source and the splitter.
The “source” will initiate a HDCP handshake (incase HDCP is used) with the splitter.
The splitter can go two routes (depending on splitter design);
1) The splitter itself handles the HDCP handshake
2) The splitter forwards the handshake to the connected device(s)
The trick with the splitters that do strip HDCP are the ones that use the first method.
The destination device (and older TV for example) will not play a role in the handshake.
As I understand, after the handshake was successful between source and destination (the splitter in our scenario), the video data will be send unencrypted from source to the splitter and then forwarded to the end destination (TV).
Hans
I’ve possibly looked at more Amazon reviews than anyone else here, for aqwhole lot of splitters. Very cmmon to see. it works and it does not work posts in the same time frame. Why ?
Two reasons I suggest : the splitters were being hooked up to different devices and in different ordes . Example Plug in splitter Turn TV on or Turn on TV and plug in splitter either on or off. Not unusual to imagine results would be a lot different with newer splitters which probably have a different chip than older ones tho both old and new can work.
I noted a total absence of details in the revoews as to whow the source and splitter were married. most negative reviews do not even contain the souce information.
Why anyone would think it a bid deal to try all variations in connections and consider doing things in a particular way to get good results is weird.
I ‘ve looked for splitters that had positive recent reviews, I now discount ” don’t work ” reviews as situation, not splitter determined. One area to consider is durability. Newer piece may not last forever so stock up if it works for you. Other than that unless someone has run through several connection possibilities and tested with sevral sources and support devices a report that a splitter does not work when other reports state it does to me means more that a comprehensive testing program has not been accomplished. than that the unit indeed does not strip.
Hans could you answer this for me ? When a splitter ” strips ” does that mean the encryption has been removed and the signal then can pass or does it mean that the splitter does the handshake so that the signal goes through or is it a case of the handshake strops ( removes ) the encryption.
Stephen
While a little hard to follow, I totally agree with the basic ideas. Without an exact setup and procedure each time, comparison testing is meaningless. Most “does not work” is usually OE (operator error) either by order of steps involved or odd equipment combinations.
Michael
I’m not Hans but I can answer that question. The splitter drops hdcp on its output. The connection between the source player and the splitter is still encrypted. If it wasn’t you’d get an hdcp error from the source player.
Dave
I think you’re right Dave.
I originally understood that only an initial handshake is needed. Once HDCP handshake has been successful, encryption is completely dropped. But I may have been wrong about that.
The Wiki explanation is a little vague, and it seems there may be more than one mode of operandi.
The entire HDCP story reminds me about the use of region codes on DVD players and good old MacroVision – pretty much useless and a hinder for folks that want to use this in a legit way.
[start soapbox mode]
I’d like to emphasize again that this article was NOT written to promote the illegal distribution of copyrighted content, but rather intended to be able to use use our “older” equipment.
In this day and age where we should be more conscious about the environment, I believe it to be almost criminal that tech companies force us to dump perfectly good working equipment in a landfill, just so they can make a buck.
[end soapbox mode]
Hans
Hans : I may not get the demodulator as themanufacturer cannot answer what I would have thought was a basic questio. If the 3 plugs on all of the vcrs do output the signal from the vcrs I would think that they might out put whatever signal is going into them maybe ith th recording process or not and there fore a coaxial cable from beta max player into the coaxial intput of a vcr should result in the beta max signal coming out of the RCA plugs in the front of the vcr which can then be connected to the composite to hdmi input end.
I remember when high definition vcrs came out but never was interested in them . Since HD tvs can input both analog and digital signals do you know if the digital vcrs could play analog recorded tapes. The digital vcrs as far as I know used the same cassette tapes.
I’m always wary about anything new and the differences between old and new. I don’t listen to music anymore for at least two reasons but way back when I was considering getting up to date ( transistor ) equipment I was surprised to se that te tuners were digital and could not get weak signals as did analof tuners ( that is the ” dial ” that goes through stations. The digital tuners would only pull in stronger stations , the weaker ones could not be received.
Stephen
I’m not familiar with any digital VCRs, HD or otherwise.
I’d assume that HD VCR’s will store video analog as well, and one would need special tapes for this (to handle the higher bandwidth).
The pro and con of digital radio signal is indeed “digital” – it works or it doesn’t.
This was the beauty (IMO) of analog radio signal.
Even a crappy signal could be heard (radio) or seen (TV).
Obviously this is not the case with digital radio signal.
As for your (de)modulator question; I’m not sure what you’re asking, but maybe this helps:
The VCR will generate a analog audio and video signal (internal) and this signal is often “directly” connected to the RCA connectors (Composite video, Audio Left and Right).
At the same time (!) these signals are also connected to a RF modulator, which is used to transport this signal, as if it was a TV station, over a coax cable.
Your TV will have to be tuned in to the right channel to receive this “TV station” so you can view your video.
Now … if you’d connect a TV on the TCA connectors, AND another TV on the coax connector, then both TV’s will receive the signal at the same time.
Since you mentioned “RCA plugs in the front” – as far as I know, RCA connectors at the front of a VCR are input only connectors. So you can feed for example a video camera out to your VCR and record it.
Hans
The question I put to the demodulator compay was simple : will their product take an analog signal outputed by a vcr. From what I could understand the main use for their demodulator was to take something other than an analog signal and turn itinto an analog signal via rca plugs My concern is not with the outputed signal of the beta max or vcrs but is the demodulator able to just pass the analog signal coax to rca plugs . You’re correct the rca openings on the front of the vcr are inputs. There are additional rca inputs and outputs on the back of the vcrs.As I wrote the AVA access person wrote in an Amazon post that he did not know ifthe piece downscaled the HDCP signal. Some one here posted that the parts I have to change HD digital to analog standard def could not handle 4K so I might need the HD downscaling to accomplid what I would need to do ( might need a 1080 tv connected to the AVaccess piece to do this. That’s why I asked about the digital vcr . I’ll have to look on the net to see if they would play analog tapes. Could possibly get some old ones on ebay.I had not considered high def radio signals before. My audio receivers are hybrids analog for playing records , cds and tapes but digital for FM reception with a knob that is turned to go across the FM channels which are accessed by moving a n indicator across about a foot wide channel selector which is similar to a yard stick with station numbers instead of inches. Never thought of this before but if the FM section of the receiver were analog would that mean it would not receive the radio signals of today ?
Stephen
Isn’t this: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Techole-Composite-Supporting-NTSC-Included/dp/B07SY748N9 what you need to convert from a VCR to an HDMI display? (Can’t believe you’re using betamax. Thought those died out in the 80’s!)
What display device are you using that doesn’t have composite video inputs? Even HDMI TVs and HDMI projectors usually have a single AV input for old equipment.
GTX
I guess they got confused about your question.
Just a recap;
Your VCR has potentially outputs for RF (coax from the modulator in the VCR) and/or Composite Video (analog, RCA connectors).
If your VCR only has the RF (coax/analog) output, you’d need a demodulator to bring the RF signal back to composite.
By the best of my knowledge, all of the modulators/demodulators are not affected by digital or analog.
As for radio; at the moment most stations are still broadcasted in analog. Some station broadcast additionally in one or the other digital format.
If they’d switch to all digital, then the amount of angry consumers will probably much worse than when they did this for TV’s. Not to mention that a convert would not work well for your car radio … so I suspect that analog radio will not be replaced by digital-only for quite a while
Hans
I think I answered my ownquestion abot digital VHS recorders. I could have used one to avoid the analog standard def from diigital going into the VHS recoreder. I wanted to knowif this digital vhs recorder would record tapes playable on a standard vhss. Don’t record in beta do have recorded beta tapes. Beta recorder does not have rca plug connections. Hans recommended another rca to hdmi converter before.
Stephen
Should have written that my receivers are hybrids tubes and transistors not analog/digital
LOng story short : anyone know of a device that will convert 4K to standard analog. I was preparing for 1080 to analog. Right now I have on item that does digital to analog and one that does high def to standard def. Failure to have a converter that does the 4K to standard def might require using the AVaccess downscaler and another splitter to deal with the encryption.
Stephen
I was looking for a 4K to 1080 downscaler on Amazon that would not require the addition of a 1080 TV to do the job. Did not fid one. Is this product available ?. Did find the Monoprice 11524 Blackbird 4K HDCP converter 2.2 to 1.4. Looks like it only works 4K to 4K tkough
Stephen
I would assume that these devices may not exist. The majority of potential customers probably would like to focus on upscaling rather than downscaling.
The device you mention is probably only tweaking HDMI 2.2 specific details to make it compatible with HDMI 1.4.
So a few thought with this;
– Quite a few video source devices allow you to set the desired output, so you could “force” the device (in Settings or Preferences) to 1080p.
– If the splitter you’re using only supports 1080p, it will “tell” the video source that it can only do 1080p at best, and the video source (usually) by itself switches down to 1080p.
In both scenarios downscaling wouldn’t be needed.
To illustrate this: I have a device (nVidia Shield) that supports 4K output. When playing a 4K video (from NetFlix for example) it will output 4K video.
I used to have my receiver as the central point to switch the different HDMI inputs for my TV (my TV used to be 1080p, my newer TV does 4K).
However, my receiver can handle HDMI 1.3 at best. So it will not support 4K.
In that scenario, the nVidia Shield (the video source) switches down to 1080p automatically, since the connected device (my receiver) can handle 1080p at best.
I’ve tested this with a cheap HDMI splitter that strips HDCP (only HDMI 1.3 compliant) as well, and it still automatically switches to 1080p because of the limitation on my receiver.
The trick here being that the splitter strips HDCP and seems to identity itself as “max. 1080p” compatible.
Your mileage may vary of course, but it did make me wonder if you’d indeed need a 4K->1080p downscaler, under the assumption that the splitter is HDMI 1.3 and identifies itself as such.
Hans
Since I’m tech non savy I’m at a disadvatage here. On my current cable boxes which are used with an analog TV I can adjust the resolution nd picture format. Strangely I need to choose the 4 : 3 picture ration to get widescreen.
Have no idea that would be possible twith the Altice 1 4 K cable box which is in ts fourth generation. The customer service at my cable company is hopeless. One of the reps told me he has the latest Altice at home and it works fime. I checked the latest customer reviews and according to them it sure doesn’t.
Had not thought about chaning the resolution signal outputed from the box just got information from the company that it is compatible with 1089 HDCP 1.4 but I would question anything they say. They’ve gone to a Byzantine price structure formulated to gouge out as much as possible from the customer. The othertwo providers in my area have also adopted a damn the customer approach so there isn’t ant where to go for good service.
Since the AVaccess piece may srip HDCP 2.2 according to posts here ( but contrary to informaion sent to me by the company ) I may have a straightforwaorward ( kind of ) way of getting to the 1080 to standard deg / digital to analog divices needed to get to the analog vcr. All depends what comes out of the AVaccess and wht settings I can rig for the Altice cable box ( which according to the company will not be forced on customers for some time, old boxes are still acvailable from the company store nearby00
May be the only provider in the US that still has ” old ” boxes.
I spent some time talking to a CR about wireless ( no cable box ) transmissions and cloud storage as opposed to DVR storage. Probably won’t live long enough to try to deal with that.
An irony of thi is that in the US the programing has been dumbed down in many ways but I would not want to be without a way to keep cettain material.
Stephen
A call to the cable company confirmed that the Altice 1 4K can be turned off. This is a big plus. The biggest concern about the splitters may be how long they will last. ld ones seen to be good for the duration.
Stephen
That’s good news! I hope this helps resolve the issue at hand
Hans
Hans the rca plugs to HDMI adapter needs to be connected to a 5 volt adapter per the desctiption. ( usually used for a phone ? ) Could you show me a listing on Amazon for this adapter. ?
Stephen
Hi Stephen,
Yep, the need for a 5V adapter is probably related to the fact that RCA is not giving a 5V feed.
I did think HDMI does provide 5V, but maybe it’s not enough to power one of these.
If you look here (Amazon), you’ll see quite a few listed. I think this model ($15) and this model ($12) will do fine, and to me they look identical.
I have one of these and it works very well.
As far as I know they are commonly used for older video equipment (eg. a VCR or old CamCorder), I’m not aware of these being used with phone though – but it’s not impossible
Hans
Hans, a question about the RCA to hdmi cable adapter that need the 5v connection. : I recall that you said that newer HD TVs may not accept an analog signal even though the sets may have the coaxial cable screw in post. I’m a bit confused about this. If the newer TV sets will not accept an analog signal from a coax cable will they accept an analog signal passed through the hdmi cable from the rca plugs to hdmi cable adapter connected to the analog vcr recorder ?
Another question is for anyone who has a knowledge about DVD recorders. I’ve always stayed away from these machines as they are more problematic to use than a vcr but I may in the future need to use them as I could run out of blank tapes which I use in great numbers.
Would anyone know if the ones available now, probably the only ones would be used from ebay, ate all digital in, digital out or do some have analog in and out puts ? I woud think the the connection would be the same as with a cable box, that is box to dvd recorder to tv, or is there a difference from the vcr ? I expect I could find blankdiscs on ebay but I’d like to have some knowledge about what I’d be looking for. Anything I should know about ” finalizing ” Ti think it’s called, a program I would record. Is ‘ finalizing ” something that needs to be done after each program recorded or can it be done after the disc if full ? Basically how is finalizing done ?
It is so much easier to put video files on an external hard drive connected to a pc. Each hard drive could contain about one thousand full length movies and if the external hard drives a duplicated as I do the material should be secure tho not as much as vcr tapes ,which like the vcrs are remarkably duravl;e. Then beta first came out there was a concern about the length of time the durability of the recordings. I have tapes from around 1980 that look as good as when recorded. Audio reel to reel tapes can degrade especially from changes in temperature.
Stephen
OT : I use You tube a lot and the recommended videos lead me to other related pieces, much like Amazon book recomendations. Is there any way to have Vimeo show related videos by other contributors on the same theme as the video on screen ?
Stephen
Hi All,
Thanks for all the great information. I am interested in the AVAccess unit (link). According to some of the folks it can be used with 4K60 Pro MK.2 and HDCP 2.2. Can you tell me if your unit was advertised as “Upgradate Firmware”? I’m worried that something is different between the Feb feedback and the current version of the firmware. Thanks.
Paul
Unfortunately, I do not have this particular model.
Also keep in mind: most manufacturers, or their customer service for that matter, will never publicly say or announce if their splitter strips HDCP.
Maybe one of the users here has this more recent model and can confirm it to work or not, but in the end it always remains a gamble.
Having said that: Amazon has a return policy, and so do most suppliers. You could check out the “rules” and if they allow a return, then just give it a try and return it if it doesn’t work.
Hans
I’m not sure if it said upgraded firmware when I bought it. Late to the party anyway I guess. I suspect it still works but no way to know for sure. Some others on Reddit bought that splitter and it worked for them too.
BTW not splitter related, but Elgato finally updated their software and resolved the audio sync issues I had. My setup works pretty much flawlessly now.
Dave
Yeha, unfortunately, I do not have access to one of those, so I can’t really assist with that one
Good news on the Elgato software though!
Hans
Hey,
Maybe I just got lucky, but I ordered a CKITZE BG-520 HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 from a 3rd party Amazon vendor in June 2019, and it works a treat stripping HDCP.
Sadly not available now.
Daev
Awesome! You got one!
Yeah, this is the story for most of us here … find one and within no-time they are either no longer available, or being replaced with newer models that do not strip HDCP
Hans
I just ordered a couple of cheap 4K splitters, along with an HD Fury Dr HDMI 4K. I’ll report back if they are able to pass HDCP-protected content through to non-HDCP-compliant capture devices.
Edison
Hi Edison!
Reporting back your findings would be greatly appreciated!
Hans
Today June 20th I was watching Comcast TV when the automatic reboot happened. Since then no picture through my SANOXY spliter to my TV. Also when I send the picture to my HDML-Cloner Box Pro it just records a no signal message. The cable box is fine since if I connect it directly to the TV it has a great picture. Is there any way around this new Comcast update? thanks!
Erin
Hi Erin,
I do not have access to any Comcast equipment. Since the splitter seems to have worked before: Consider unplugging everything (power included), wait a few seconds, and plug it all back together again to see if it makes a difference. That’s all I can say about this.
Maybe some fellow Comcast users here have tips?
Hans
p.s. for other users it may be helpful if you give some more details about the device (brand/model/etc) …
Hans
Many thanks for your answer Hans.
I have tried unplugging all the components and rebooting directly and indirectly with web-based refreshing of the cable box through my Xfinity account and still no picture. When the system reboots I see the normal Xfinity welcome message and then a blank black screen. It seems that the new HDCP signal kicks in a second after the message. The Xfinity cable box is a PXO series box and the Sanoxy splitter is the base model 1X2 HDMI splitter. Previously, I was able to make good recordings using my HDML-Cloner Box Pro. I assume other Xfinity customers are having the same problem.
Erin
I wasn’t able to find your specific Xfinity box, but it occurred to me that the new firmware may have switched it the HMDI 2.x, whereas your splitter only supports HDMI 1.x. Granted: I do not know if this is even possible with a firmware upgrade, but it could explain the issue you’re running into.
You could eliminate this guess by hooking up a HDMI 1.x TV (one that does not support HDMI 2.x).
This way you could complain with Xfinity, stating that their update crippled your TV watching.
Another reason could be that the device ID of your splitter has been blacklisted.
Again: I do not know this for a fact, and I do not even know if this is commonly done in firmware at all.
Something you may have already tried:
Connect your TV (assuming it works with the Xfinity box after the firmware update) to the first output port of the plitter. Power on the TV, then power on the splitter, and finally power on the Xfinity box. Some splitters seem use the first (or last) HDMI out port for HDCP identification. So this trick may work for you as well (assuming the first 2 potential issues are not relevant).
Hans
Hans, thank you for your very clear detailed answer.
I followed the steps but still no luck.
Do you know of any HDMI 2.X splitter models? Is it possible that I need a newer type of HDMI cable (I have tried different cables I already had with no luck).
Many thanks!
Erin
Some thoughts,
The cable box may be switching to a video mode not supported by the splitter. Have you tried connecting directly to the TV to see what resolution and refresh rate the box is sending?
My guess is this is an EDID problem of some kind.
But also verify the splitter still works with another device if you have one. DVD player, streaming player, etc… It should be but who knows.
Does the splitter have any settings/switches that change how it passes EDID? Some do. Fiddle with that if it does.
Dave
Hi Erin,
Dave makes some valid points (thanks Dave for chiming in!).
As for a HDMI 2.x splitter that supports HDCP stripping: I haven’t seen one yet, and as far as I recall only one has been reported to work here (search this page for “HDMI 2”). However the one reported is now listed as a HDMI 1.4 device.
This doesn’t mean they do not exist, just not many have been reported or found.
There are few reports of the HDFury working with custom firmware, but I have never owned or tested one.
Hans
Dave and Hans thank you for your thoughtful and clear responses. I tested the splitter using the Cloner Alliance box and it works perfectly. It seems that with the new Comcast update the Sanoxy splitter is no longer able to strip the HDCP signal. The box has no switches on it so there are no settings that I can play with.
I have checked the RCA output of the Comcast box with and an old Magnavox DVD recorder. The DVD recorder is still able to record a clear signal from that output.
My question is would a RCA input to HDMI output converter
(Input AV RCA to HDMI Output Video Converter Adapter 1080p Upscaler+ USB Cable)
allow me to use my Cloner Alliance box again? Or would the HDCP signal block its use?
Is the HDCP the same through the component output?
Or does the old Magnavox just ignore the HDCP signal and nothing else attached to that output could record?
Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Erin
RCA outputs/inputs are all low def video. Even going thru the best upscaler will not look great. That said, if you did this, RCA–>HDMI upscaler–>HDMI Cloner Box, should work.
Trev
Thanks Trev, what would be the best RCA input to HDMI upscaler model?
Erin
They must have changed hdcp versions or something like that I guess. One of the newer splitters we posted previously might work. This one has been working for me.
Amazon: 4K HDMI 2.0 Splitter 1 in 2 Out, Auto Scaling, 4K60Hz YUV444 18Gbps, HDR & Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, EDID, Low Heat, Wall Mount, Not for Audio Extraction
Dave
Thanks Dave I will give it a try and let you know if it works with Xfinity Comcast.
Erin
Thanks Trev and Dave for chiming in
Erin; please let us know if the splitter Dave mentioned works (and make sure you can return it, if it doesn’t
).
I agree with Trev; grabbing low def RCA signal will result in a rather poor image quality.
Hans
Erin,
Several years back I had to figure out how to save a bunch of the families VHS tapes. I ended up purchasing the Atlona AT-HD850 Scaler. Dumping the VHS tapes from my S-VHS deck, using an S-VHS cable w/RCA audio, thru the AT-HD850 upscaling to 1080p and recording on the original HDML Cloner Box gave me good quality files. The AT-HD850 was able to clean up some dark videos, adjust colors and saturation besides upscaling. At the time I paid around $395 for the Atlona. Pricier ones might get you an even better qulaity. I just don’t think spending the money to upscale the RCA’s out of the cable box is the way to go.
Also, in all honesty, what exactly are you recording from Xfinity cable box, TV shows, Movies, Sports? I only ask because you can find a lot of TV shows and Movies on many of the file service sights out there. If you join one of those sights, be sure to run your Internet thru a VPN, but I still argue that “they” still know what you’re up too. 😉
Trev
Thanks Trev for the information on the Atlona AT-HD850 Scaler I too need to copy over a bunch of home movies from old VHS tapes before the memories are lost forever.
I have been recording news stories for a current events class and I like to provide the best quality video so that image quality is not a distraction. I combine together various interesting clips from news segments. I don’t know how I would manage to capture video, let alone edit it together from online sources.
Erin
Hi Erin,
I’ve done quite a few VHS home video conversions myself and used an Elgato Game Capture HD for this (it comes with a special cable for composite video and S-Video). This device is no longer sold by Elgato but still very well supported by them. The link will bring you to an Amazon page where you may find a used one, but you may also look on eBay or Craigslist to find much better prices (I’ve seen a few listed for $100 on eBay).
The quality with the Elgato Game Capture HD is very impressive though (upscales by itself to 1080p).
Note: The Elgato HD60s is not a good alternative, as it doesn’t come with any analog input options.
The Atlona AT-HD850 Scaler will do a great job as well of course, it’s just a lot more expensive (from what I could find).
Hans
Thank you Hans for suggesting the Elgato Game Capture HD. I looked on Ebay but the only one I could find that had S video or RCA connections for my old VCR came with external cables that converted the connections. How is the quality if you copy the video through such converting cables? Is this what you had in mind or a different base model? Thanks!
Erin
My Elgato Game Capture HD came with a specially adapter cable which provides Composite (yellow RCA), Component (4x RCA) and S-Video.
I didn’t realize I had that vable for the longest time, since I recorded mostly of HDMI. So I can imagine that most owners are not fully aware of this as well.
So when buying a used one: make sure the cable is included.
As for the quality: The quality is very good.
I had a VHS tape, and back in the day it came with a DVD copy of the same video.
When comparing the recording done with the Elgato (from the VHS tape) with the provided DVD version, I can only say that the quality of the Elgato recording was much better. I’ve converted several home videos (VHS and VHS-c) with the Elgato and can only say that I’m very pleased with the results.
Make sure you get the “Elgato Game Capture HD” (image below), since the other models may or may not have the analog video input option (fop example the HD60 does not seem to have this analog input!).
Hans
DSS56, Thank you for your suggestion.
I could not find the model you were talking about on Amazon.
What terms should I search for? Thanks!
Erin
Hans, thank you for your very clear explanation of the “Elgato Game Capture HD”.
Would any RCA to S port converter work or does it need to be an original to the Elgato?
Is there a difference between a component and a RCA to S port converter? Do both also carry sound?
Many thanks!
Erin
I think if anyone can find a HDMI unit that will produce component red blue green and then back to HDMI in a recorder it will work as RGB use no HDCP encryption. I had to do that on my Sling box to view my cable tv box on all my Ipads and iphones> There is a small unit Amazon sells that You plug in the hdmi cable and it has RGB and audio extraction. So all you will need is a box thet will take the RGB back to HDMI and then to a recorder to record, thus bypassing the splitter and all the data on the hdmi cable that would detect the HDCP warning screen.
If i ran the hdmi cable from my comcast box into my Slingbox direct it states a possibility of HDCP dedction and some cable channels might not display. So the HDMI box whit HDCP was $70.00 from Amazon hooked up the RGB and all is Fine. Hope this helps
dss56
Erin
try this HDMI to Compornent + L/R Audio and HDMI to HDMI 1080i Video Converter/Adapter with USB Power Cable for Slingbox
Im sure you can get 1 much cheaper also then you will need to convert the RGB component back to hdmi.
dss56
With the “Elgato Game Capture HD” you wouldn’t need anything extra (no analog to digital converter and no upscaling needed) – The Elgato will handle it all.
One end of the cable that comes with the “Elgato Game Capture HD” goes into the round connector (see the previous images).
The other end of the cable has a few female RCA connectors which you’d use to feed the analog video to.
It has a little black block for analog audio (RCA red/white) and 3 RCA connectors (blue/red/green) for component video.
The red RCA connector of the component input can also be used for composite video (usually this would be a yellow RCA on your VCR for example).
If you’d like to use s-Video connection on your VCR, you’ll have to watch what kind of s-Video connection it is. Some only carry composite signal (lesser quality – the same as the yellow RCA) and some have the ability to provide component (better quality).
Adapters for this are typically very cheap, some examples: s-Video to Composite ($6), or s-Video to component ($10) (recommended if your VCR supports it).
Hans
p.s. You’ll need the cable that originally came with the “Elgato Game Capture HD”.
Of course you can connect any adapter to that original cable, like when you want s-Video to component conversion.
And: Audio is included.
Hans
DSS 56 and Hans, Thanks for the wonderfully explicit clarifications! You are born teachers putting yourselves into the shoes of the learner and explaining things in a way they can understand! I hope both you have a great and safe 4th of July weekend!
Erin
Thanks Erin (and DSS56) – you’re most welcome!
Hope you had a good 4th as well
Hans
ViewHD. June 2020. Worked well. Older wireless video so I can watch tv in 2 rooms. New cable box would not talk to wireless. Would only display HDCP error.
With all HDMI disconnected, power on TV, Wireless, ViewHD. Plug TV HDMI into ViewHD Out1. Plug Cable Box into ViewHD IN. Wait for TV to display cable channel. Plug Wireless HDMI into ViewHD Out2. Keeps working if cable or TV turned off and on.
Charlie
Cool!
Hans
Thank you for the ‘Thanks’, Hans!!
And thank you for all the time, energy and input you spent on this website!!
Trev
Hans
Me, too. Thanks for your ongoing work, Hans. Always much appreciated. There is always more to learn on the subject. Please stay safe and virus free.
Michael
Thanks Michael!
It’s really much appreciated! Stay well and stay virus free as well
Hans
I have been following the HDCP splitter post here and still I have not seen anyone post a confirmed splitter that is working to strip HDCP.
I have 2 old View HD and work well.
I’m looking for a 3rd splitter that will work, so if possible can someone post if you recently bought a working HDCP splitter.
thanks
dss56
Excellent request!
I haven’t purchased any splitters in a while now.
If anyone reports: please add the link to where you purchased the splitter and report the supported HDMI version.
(since more people are now looking for HDMI 2.x models)
Hans
Hi,
This is an excellent thread… both the original post and all the follow-ups.
I am still unclear what “stripping” actually means in practice.
I’ve been searching high and low for an explanation of the stripping process… but so far not found one! :-(
This amazing project came close to helping me understand… but still I was unclear… https://hackaday.com/2015/03/12/hdmi-splitter-is-also-a-decrypter/ and https://hacks.esar.org.uk/hdmi-splitter-hack/
And some devices like the Kramer PT-1C (https://www.kramerav.com/ca/product/pt-1c#Tab_Overview) and the very similar Gefen HDMI Detective Plus (https://www.gefen.com/product/hdmi-detective-plus-EXT-HD-EDIDPN) appear to be able to turn the stripping on and off via a DIP switch – if I’ve understood their manual correctly. (Manuals downloadable from these websites). This appears to do what the HDMI splitter hack above does…
In my case i have an Apple MacMini as my HDMI source which I understand will *always* make an HDCP request to the HDMI sink connected to it if the sink is HDCP capable. It doesn’t matter whether or not the content being sent from the Mac to the sink requires HDCP or not. (For example a word processing document clearly doesn’t need an HDCP connection, but a high definition iTunes move does)
So….. If I install a splitter that strips HDCP what does the mac do?
Does the Mac ‘see’ the splitter as an HDCP capable sink and negotiate an HDCP connection, and then when the content leaves the splitter to the ‘real’ sink is no longer encoded with HDCP? i.e. the HDCP is “stripped” by the splitter and any content requiring HDCP sent from the Mac is displayed by the ‘real’ sink.
FWIW in my use is in a home situation where I now have the dreaded and normal HDCP incompatibility problems between the Mac and TV’s but also want to still be able to watch content that requires HDCP :-(
Thanks to anyone who can help us all understand better!
Thanks
Antony
Hi Antony,
thank you very much for the compliments
The phrase “HDCP stripping” may be a little confusing.
In essence, whichever device you’re using, will handle proper HDCP authentication (instead of the connected device like a TV). This makes it that the HDMI output can be displayed on a device that does not support HDCP, or doesn’t support the right version of HDCP.
As I understand, yes your Mac will have HDCP enable over the HDMI connection – I believe this is a requirement for apps like NetFlix and the likes to even work on your Mac.
If you pick the right splitter, then yes, that should work for your Mac as well.
Having said that: over the years quite a few splitters used to have the ability to strip HDCP, to then have a “new” version being released that suddenly no longer works for HDCP stripping. Hence the long list of what folks found and reported to be working, and then a few months later other buyers of the same splitter (newer model) to report that the newer models no longer work.
If I understood all the technical details correctly (so I could be wrong): these cheap splitters that do “strip” HDCP, actually use a chip which generates a valid EDID. So the connected video source gets a proper reply back and the signal gets send unencrypted. For a splitter to work this way makes perfect sense – after all, which of the connected devices (eg. 2 TV’s) should be used fo the EDID.
Since this seems to be the grey-zone of what is and what isn’t allowed (very much depending on regional laws!), quite a few [Chinese] manufacturers remove this “feature” in newer models, just to avoid lawsuits and other legal problems.
Now the other links you posted are very interesting as well.
Much less complicated than an actual “hack” and much cheaper than the other devices.
Most splitters work up to HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 – which means that if 4K video works, then it will be at a max of 30fps (which doesn’t need to be bad).
At the moment, finding a model that supports HDMI 2.x and strip HDPC seems a challenge. But then again, you may not need HDMI 2.x.
As mentioned before, quite a few did get reported to work, to only see that newer versions do not. You’re heavily depend on experiences of others. Especially at Amazon, go through the most recent reviews and look for HDCP. You can also scroll through the large amount of comments here (starting at the bottom) to see if a model can be found.
I believe Amazon has a good return policy (make sure the seller allows this), even though most of the working splitters are really cheap.
Even with AliExpress, mixed results have been reported, but since the copyright laws are pretty much non existing in China (as far as I know), I can imagine splitters to be stripping HDCP more likely (and typically they are dirt cheap).
Hans
Hi Hans,
Yes… very helpful. Thank-you.
The Geffen is available from various places prices in the $50-$100 range. The PT-1C device… which as far as I can tell is identical… is considerably more.
I’m going to try one of the HDMI/HDCP 1.3 ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D devices. From what I can see from comments people seem to be saying still works…. its the newer v1.4 or v2.0 that don’t.
I’ll report back.
Thanks again
Antony
I think you’re right about the PT-1C and the Geffen – at least it wouldn’t surprise me.
Yes, please report back your finding, and if possible a link to where you bought it!
Hans
Hi all
Well here goes it might be long but sure you all will have a good results on my post.
I have been following this post for the past 2.5 years. I was able to get 2 View HD 1×2 splitters that will strip HDCP 3 years ago. Then I was looking for another one to record my Satellite. My other 2 are being used in different rooms. So that is why I needed another for the Sat. recording. I have 2 Avermedia 310 recording unites that will record upto 1080 HD and its a great playback picture. Of course all splitters were updated and did not work
So I searched and searched and bought some splitters over the past 2 years and no luck all never worked to strip the HDCP screen.
I got in contact with ViewHD and I was told to try the new 1×2 ViewHD Model U9-Pluto. It has a 2 position dip switch to turn on and off the copy protection. Also it does 4K, my aver media does upto 1080 and thats good for me.
So I hooked up the splitter and tested recording with the Aver Media and works great no HDCP warning.
The Splitter works great taking care of the HDCP warning Screen on my Aver Media screen saying copy protection screen.
From my Satellite I put to the input and then splitter 1 back to tv HDMI input and the other splitter 2 port to my aver media and again recording is great, I cant see any degrading in quality.
The Pluto splitter says its ver 1.4
So the splitter cost $19.99 plus shipping. Model U9-Pluto v1.4 and was ordered on Amazon, had it in5 days.
Ebay does not sell these as I searched and no luck only Amazon sells them from what I found
I hope this will make some happy that a splitter has been posted that is working with my Satellite box and also with a Aver Media 310 recorder.
Im sure this should work for your system to strip the HDCP problem
Any questions please ask away
dss56
Hi DSS56!
This is excellent info!
I presume you’re referring to this “1×2 ViewHD Model U9-Pluto” model at Amazon.
Note :
HDMI 1.4 does support 4K, but as I understand only at 30 fps, where as HDMI 2.x supports 60 fps at 4K.
Personally I think 30 fps is good enough, but one or the other purist may want to see 60 fps.
Also note (and I’m not sure about this) that HDMI 1.4 may not be good enough for devices that require HDMI 2.x (different HDCP version?). YMMV.
Excellent info though!
Hans
Hi Hans
Like i posted i record upto 1080 with my avermedia 310 and is excelent picture on playback. So Im fine with that, its been 2 years looking for a splitter that will work for HDCP on my Comcast cable box and now my Satellite system.
I have a 50 inch plasma tv so no need for 4k at this time and no way to test 4k.
So now I have my Cable box to avermedia, my Satellite box to avermedia using a Hdmi switch box and miles of cables LOL
In another room
then I have VHS to VHS or DVD
DVD to DVD with a special stripper to remove unwanted screens.
HI 8mm to DVD
Just about any combo of video transfer to any media format.
Then I can convert it all on my computers to most any format.
Have 8TB drives loaded with movies/shows.
Thing is with all this is its all done in real time thats the only problem.
My best compiling of movies is SCI-FI movies older types and love space movies, running out of trying to find ones I dont have.
I recommend the AverMedia 310 as it has a schedule timer built in so you can set up a time to record. Only problem is it will not change the channel on my cable box. I tried everything and got no support from AverMedia on this problem. So I put on the channel I want to record set the timer and all is good.
Most of my recordings are done late at night.
When this is in record mode I just change my input to cable and can watch cable while recording my Satellite box.
If anyone out there has a AverMedia 310 and got it to change your cable box for timed recordings please chime in and let me know what you did to get it to work for Comcast X1 box.
thanks all have a great day
dss56
Awesome!
Having a big 4K TV, I can say that honestly 1080p is good enough for me. Especially on larger TVs, I can not really see the difference unless it is a still picture.
Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Avermedia 310.
The only Avermedia device I have is a very old video capture dongle (which I do not even use anymore).
I hope somebody here has the same model and can chime in, seeing the description of the product I’d expect scheduling and switching channels to work …
Hans
Have been looking at the recent post for the new View Pluto splitter, I have the older View Pluto splitter. Still will not need to use a HDCP splitter for years as my cable company ( Optimum ) is planning to keep its basic non encrpted Samsung boxes available for the foreseeable future. Will still always use non digital VCRs for recordind. Have the hdmi to standard definition and digital to analog converters as well as the AVaccess splitters that downscale tho I’ve been told that when Optimum does go to a 4K box it is possible to set the cable box to 1080 instead of 4 K. Still use analog TV but have the analog to hdmi converter for newer 1080 tvs that might not take an analog signal. Unless I’m missing something I don’t think I need to buy the new View Pluto as it seems to be designed for newer TVs that I will never use. AM I correct ? Stephen
Stephen
If everything works as-is, then you’d probably don’t need a new splitter.
Having said that, and knowing that manufacturers keep changing things; it never hurts to have a working unit in stock. But that’s completely up to you.
Hans