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How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal …

How to remove HDCP from HDMI signal …
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I’ve been playing with ambient light for my TV for a while now, as you can see in the “Ambient TV lighting with XBMC Boblight, OpenElec and WS2811/WS2812 LEDs“, to make colorful lights (LEDs) light up matching the video you’re seeing on your TV.

The downside of that project is that it only works for a dedicated HTPC running for example Kodi (XBMC).

But what if I’d like to see this with video from my XBox 360, XBox One, Wii, or … Blu-ray player or cable box?
Besides the fact that we need to grab this video, and all it’s technical complications, we will be running into a copy protection issue called HDCP, a HDMI feature nobody really asked for.

Please note that I’m not writing this article to promote pirating content! This article is solely aimed at using non-HDCP compliant equipment with equipment that seems to require HDCP. So I’m looking at older HDMI LCD/LED/Plasma TV’s, HDMI Projectors, Game Recording (PS3), taking screenshots for documentation and/or articles, and of course my own little project to generate ambient light behind my TV! Please keep this in mind.




HDMI and HDCP – Some background information

HDCP is a copy protection that was added to the HDMI standard, at a later time, by Intel.
The first HDMI versions did not include HDCP, but most modern HDMI capable devices support it.

The content, or content source (where the “output” comes from), determines if HDCP is needed, and is/was intended to prevent content to be displayed or recorded by unauthorized devices. See it as the digital counter part of MacroVision as was used with analog video way back in the day.

HDCP uses authorization and encryption – it verifies (authenticate) the receiving party (Destination or “input”) – i.e. The video sources asks for the secret code from the destination device, before it sends content, so the receiving party is authorized and can decrypt. Even though the master key for decryption has been compromised since 2010 and some smart folks assembled a device for demonstration purposes, HDCP is still in full use. Just like those idiotic region codes of DVD’s and BluRay’s. Non compliant devices, an old (HDMI) TV for example, will simply display a message that the content cannot be displayed or  will display a blank screen.

Naturally a “HDCP remover” or “HDCP Stripper” device is not readily available to the public … or is it?

CAUTION: Not intended to promote illegal copying and/or piracy! 

I cannot emphasize this enough! This article was not written with illegal copying, ripping or to promote piracy.
The sole purpose is to be able to use non-HDCP compliant equipment with HDCP video sources.
This can be you old TV or projector, or trying to record game playing (PS3), making screenshots, or … my little ambient light project.

Bypassing HDCP with the intend to copy/pirate content is MOST CERTAINLY ILLEGAL in most countries!

 

Methods to Remove HDCP from HDMI

Convert to Analog

One of the methods used, yet sometimes complicated and expensive, is by converting the signal for example to VGA, Component or Composite video. This conversion to an analog signal will result in a degraded picture quality, but the result might not be too bad.

Note that some converters do honor HDCP and might not work either.

For my Ambient Light project I’ve considered using this, since I only need a low resolution representation of the video – Ideally I’d prefer a video output of say 160 x 90 pixels . But more about that once I’ve finished that project.

Select a Different (Analog) Video Output

Some devices, like the PlayStation 3 for example, have Component (good for 1080p if your TV supports it!), S-Video or Composite video output as well. HDCP does not support analog connections and you should be able to view the video just fine on non-HDCP devices. The video quality may however be of a lower quality (Component Video is recommended – see also “Connect your PC to TV“) as well.

Firmware Setting

Some devices, like a PlayStation 4 console, offer the option to disable HDCP. The downside can be that some apps, which require HDCP, will not work when HDCP is disabled.

For more details “PlayStation 4 HDCP toggle must be off to record games, on to watch video apps“.

Note that quite a lot of devices, like the XBox OneXBox 360 and for example the Amazon Fire TV, dynamically set HDCP on their HDMI ports. This means that for example the navigation menu of the Amazon Fire TV and certain non-HDCP apps will work just fine. However, as soon as you play HDCP content (Amazon Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc), your screen will turn black.

The way to go is a cheap HDMI Splitter, if you find the right one

Another, much easier and cheaper method, is the use of a HDMI splitter.

A splitter in essence makes it possible to (for example) connect 2 TV’s to one HDMI source, not designed to strip the HDCP, but some actually do exactly that. The example below illustrates a 1×2 splitter.

HDMI Splitter - On source, Two (or more) Destinations

HDMI Splitter – On source, Two (or more) Destinations

Some HDMI splitters (I have seen 1×2 and 1×4 splitters) by accident strip the HDCP encryption, and the funny part is that these are typically very cheap splitters. However, keep in mind: there is absolutely no guarantee that every HDMI splitter strips HDCP. Even the ones listed below might or might not do the trick.

Key with these splitters seems to be that they support up to HDMI 1.3b, which does not need to be a big problem unless you’re planning on blasting 4K or even 8K video over the HDMI cable. Another commonality seems to be that they appear cheap China products.

Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.

 HDMI Splitters that have been reported to strip HDCP

  These are NOT guaranteed to work!

Manufacturers change hardware all the time, so this “feature” might not work with newer models or revisions! HDMI 1.4 (and newer) devices will most likely not work! I highly recommend, definitely at Amazon, to read the most recent customer comments carefully!

  Some splitters need to have the HDMI cables connected BEFORE you power them on!

Below a list with splitters that have been reported to actually strip HDCP.

If you find other models that work, or find out that a model is no longer supporting this, then please report this in the comments.

 

Testing HDCP removal

The way I tested my setup, is by using a non-HDCP device as the destination device, and my Amazon Fire TV playing Netflix or Amazon Video content. Finding such a device shouldn’t be a problem, otherwise you’d probably not be reading this article.

For those with a PlayStation 3 – it seems that the PS3 always has HDCP enabled, unless you have a developer device (unlikely), so that or a BluRay player would work well as a source too. For other devices, the general rule is that HDCP will be enabled when copyrighted content (eg. a movie) is being played.

First test the “failing” setup …

In my case I used a device to record game playing, specifically the Elgato Game Capture HD game capture device (homepage), which shows a black screen when playing HDCP content or an error message, as demonstrated below.

HDCP Error when using the Elgato Game Capture HD

HDCP Error when using the Elgato Game Capture HD

Without the splitter, your video output (Amazon Fire TV in this example, when doing playback of content HDCP) might show a message like this:

HDCP Error Message (Amazon Fire TV)

HDCP Error Message (Amazon Fire TV)

Then test the setup with a HDMI splitter …

After installing the splitter, the HDCP seems to be stripped and video recording or making screenshots works just fine.

Caution … 

I’d like to point out, again, that this method:

  • Might or might not work with the HDMI splitter of your choosing, even the ones listed above, …
  • Do not use this method to copy and/or pirate copyrighted content! It is ILLEGAL in most countries, …
  • This method is solely written with the intend to make screenshots and/or use non-HDCP compliant equipment.

 

 

With Splitter the Elgato Game Capture HD works just fine ...

With Splitter the Elgato Game Capture HD works just fine …

 

Other Resources

I didn’t think of all of this myself, just collected what I had learned and compiled if for Tweaking4All visitors.
Some of the information I did get from the following resources to remove HDCP from HDMI:

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Comments


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  • Mar 1, 2015 - 2:51 PM - Tim Comment Link

    Now I’m really looking forward to which device you’re gonna hook up for that universal ambilight. The fact that I currently need a USB port to connect my Karatelight to is what keeps me from using FireTV as my primary player. Also, ambilight for my trusty old PS3 would be cool. 

    Reply

    Tim

    • Mar 1, 2015 - 3:22 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      Well, it seems the way to go is using one of these splitters, one output to the TV, and the other one to a HDMI2AV converter (convert HDMI to Analog video). The analog video then goes to a cheap $16 USB Video grabber which is compatible with OpenElec on Raspberry Pi.

      I thought I had to reinvent the wheel here, but it seems already available at LightBerry.eu … 

      Anyhow, I have all my HDMI devices connected to a Yamaha receiver, which has one HDMI out for the TV … so I’ll tap off the feed there and all my devices should work, including OpenElec running on my Raspberry Pi (I just got the model 2).

      Less challenging than expected, it seems, but I’m sure there will be some challenges left … ie. use my WS2812 LEDs instead of the WS2801 LEDs used in the LightBerry setup, or see if I can use an old Raspberry Pi model A for just this task. So I do expect to write an article soon …

      Reply

      hans

      • Mar 7, 2015 - 8:36 PM - ray Comment Link

        I tried to do the same setup: 

        PS4 is connected to my AV Receiver, and I was thinking to use a splitter and grabber to connect to my AV Receiver HDMI out. It works BUT I lost my ARC-capabilities of the HDMI port. I don’t know why but I read that splitting the HDMI-out from a receiver could give problems. I also tried connecting the Raspberry Pi to my Yamaha Receiver, but I couldn’t controle Raspberry Pi anymore with my TV-remote…

        Reply

        ray

      • Mar 8, 2015 - 4:42 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks for the heads-up Ray!

        I did not think of that … so I’ll have to decide: ARC functionality or Ambi-light … hmm …

        OK, so I’ll admit that I had to do some Google work on this one … 

        ARC (Audio Return Channel) was introduced with HDMI 1.4, which would mean that with this splitter (HDMI 1.3!) you’d loose ARC … and I only use ARC for the Audio when using the in the TV build receiver (= rarely). However, this is independent of the remote functionality.
        I have been wondering too, if 2 devices would send Audio back over ARC, then what should our receiver do with this?
        At least I’m aware now that I might loose the Return Audio.

        CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) however is why your remote isn’t working that way anymore.
        HDMI 1.3 should support this, but I can imagine that a “splitter” can cause issues here … I’m just guessing that the complication can be found in who controls what … 

        Unfortunately, this (CEC) didn’t work on my setup to begin with – so instead I use a “Smart Powerstrip“. Once the TV goes on, my Yamaha receiver and media devices switch on automatically as well.

        Reply

        hans

    • Feb 20, 2016 - 2:14 PM - Willy Comment Link

      So this IS the BEST and cheapest solution to stripping HDCP from an HDMI source. It works everytime!

      http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011303&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2

      Reply

      Willy

      • Feb 21, 2016 - 3:50 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Willy for posting this one!

        Wow, nice and compact … and cheap!
        Are there any other users who can confirm this?

        Reply

        hans

      • Mar 10, 2016 - 1:15 PM - bb! Comment Link

        i took a gamble on one of these things and it’s not stripping HDCP for me, so to anybody else who’s looking for a cheap solution to this problem, keep that in mind!

        Reply

        bb!

        • Mar 11, 2016 - 3:24 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi BB!

          Thanks for posting your findings here!! 
          Since I do not have one of these, I was just wondering:
          Did you try HDCP stripping while (for example) one port had a HDCP compliant device connected? I have seen and heard about devices that actually require a valid HDCP device on one port for it to work.

          Reply

          hans

    • Sep 7, 2016 - 7:47 AM - Joey Comment Link

      Thank you so very much.  I used the ViewHD with HDMI version 1.3b and it worked without a hitch.  My working setup is Roku 3 -> ViewHD -> Yamaha HTR 3063 -> BenQ SH 910.  The ViewHD is plugged into HDMI 1 and the BenQ is plugged into HDMI Out, which is the HDMI monitor port.

      Prior to this this setup, Roku 3 -> Yamaha -> BenQ produced sound without picture and Roku 3 -> BenQ -> audio out to Yamaha audio, produced picture with no sound and the HDCP error.  It also resulted in significant hair loss.

      I’m happy now and not quite bald.

      Reply

      Joey

      • Sep 7, 2016 - 7:49 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Awesome Joey!

        Glad to hear there is still some hair left 

        Which ViewHD did you use? Do you have a link? Or is it the one listed in the article?

        Reply

        hans

  • Mar 2, 2015 - 8:39 AM - Tim Comment Link

    Any idea how fast that will be? Sounds like there will be a lag between colors on TV and ambilight colors. 

    Reply

    Tim

    • Mar 2, 2015 - 10:54 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      Based on the video’s (for example this one on YouTube), I’d say it works pretty good and the delay is negligible … at least for me it is.
      Specially considering the split, strip, convert, analyze and LED steps …  

      Reply

      hans

  • May 3, 2015 - 6:28 PM - hernan Comment Link

    Thank you for the post. I have a videowall 3×2 when i use it with a PC is working perfect in the six LG monitors. The problem is when i connect the videowall with a playstation or a bluray player. When i do that is not showing images in the six monitors its only showing in one. One technician said its problem with HDCP. What do you recommend to see movies in the videowall with a bluray player or a playstation? Thank you very much.

    Reply

    hernan

    • May 4, 2015 - 2:26 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      Hi Hernan,

      I have never worked with video wall controllers, but I cannot confirm that HDCP would be the issue – although, you can test this notion easily with the HDMI splitters I mention in this article, and they are not that expensive either.

      I assume a video wall controller splits the video feed into sections to the connected monitors. So the video is decoded (HDCP removed) before it can do that. Maybe yours defaults to one specific output when it can’t “decode”?
      Again, I’m no expert when it comes to video wall controllers, but the ones I have found proudly announce HDCP support. Which brand/model do you have?

      Reply

      hans

  • May 16, 2015 - 7:02 PM Comment Link
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  • Jun 30, 2015 - 6:02 AM Comment Link
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  • Aug 31, 2015 - 12:49 AM - Henrx - Author: Comment Link

    Interesting!  The things they are doing now a days to fight for their intellectual property….dang hollywood….you going hungry??  Are you kids getting a well education??  And enough to eat??  Maybe we need to replace the leather seats or completely redecorate your mansion??  What’s that…. and your still rich??… wow…. ok well I’m dead broke.  but I have intellectual ummm.. property too….piece.

    Reply

    Henrx

    • Aug 31, 2015 - 3:37 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      Couldn’t agree more … spending millions on copy protection and so called CopyrightTrolls.
      Dont’ get me wrong; I understand the need for protection of intellectual property up to a point, but sometimes it simply makes normal use stupid and/or impossible.

      Case and point DVD/BluRay region codes, crippling older HDMI equipment, buying a movie but not being allowed to view it on all your devices (ie. cellphone/tablet), etc.

      Anyhow, this article was not written to circumvent copy protection and promote piracy, but to be able to use something like Boblight or and older HDMI projector – things to enjoy watching movies one has purchased legally.

      Reply

      hans

  • Sep 15, 2015 - 3:32 AM - BarnsyBDC Comment Link

    Just wondering if there are any options in order to put a splitter in a vehicle at all ??

    I have an Alpine Stereo now that are hooked up to 2 x DVD Headrests but I can’t get the HDMI signal through to the headrests, thinking it’s almost certainly a HDCP problem, so wanted to put in a splitter.

    However they all seem to be mains powered, so I’m looking for a fix around this or a HDMI splitter that is USB powered, any suggestions guys pleeeeeease !!??

    Cheers

    Reply

    BarnsyBDC

    • Sep 15, 2015 - 3:58 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      Hi BarnsyBDC,

      The splitter that I have uses a 5V, 1A power brick. 

      This would be too much for regular a USB port, but definitely workable for one of those in-car USB chargers for your cellphone that can be bought for cheap.

      p.s. when you look at the pictures of the one I got from Amazon (2nd pic) then you’ll see the round 5V connector.

      Reply

      hans

      • Sep 15, 2015 - 5:28 AM - BarnsyBDC Comment Link

        Thanks Hans. There is actually a USB port coming off the alpine deck as well which is there for fast smart phone charging / connectivity so I am hopeful this will have enough oomph to power a HDMI splitter powered by USB  :) thanks again for your input I appreciate it

        Reply

        BarnsyBDC

      • Sep 15, 2015 - 7:16 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        You’re welcome! 

        Reply

        hans

        • Sep 16, 2015 - 2:32 AM - BarnsyBDC Comment Link

          Hi again Hans

          So I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?

          ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster   ;)

          Cheers mate

          Reply

          BarnsyBDC

  • Sep 15, 2015 - 12:07 PM - Robert Comment Link

    FWIW,

    I ordered three items from the list above:

    • ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D – $24: removed HDCP as advertised
    • CKITZE BG-520 HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher – $25: did not remove HDCP
    • HDMI 1.3 1×2 1 to 2 1080P 3D Splitter Amplifier 1 in 2 out – $20 at eBay: returned b4 shipped (3 business days after ordering)
      Reply

      Robert

      • Sep 15, 2015 - 1:23 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Robert for reporting your findings … did the 3rd one work?
        I’m a little disappointed to hear the CKITZE GB-520 fail – works just fine with mine.
        Do you have any specific model number/serial or other indicator so we can compare it with mine?

        For example: I noticed a few models that silently had update from HDMI 1.3 to 1.4, where the 1.4 models fail stripping HDCP.

        Reply

        hans

        • Sep 15, 2015 - 1:57 PM - Robert Comment Link

          Hans (solo :-)

          I initiated a return with eBay for the 3rd one before it was actually shipped by the vendor (I received the other two items and the shipping company still didn’t have the package from the eBay seller). I don’t know if they’ll ship it to me anyway and make me ship it back to them. If they do, I’ll test it before doing so. FWIW, the 3rd item was the least expensive option by far (not $20 but $11.40 per unit).

          Re: the 2nd item, the CKITZE GB-520, they manufacturer may have updated the firmware but I don’t see anything that would help identify the ones I received vs the one you tested.

          The 1st item, ViewHD, worked great.

          – Robert

          Reply

          Robert

          • Sep 16, 2015 - 2:47 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Thanks again Robert – I’ll update the article to reflect the new info. 

            Reply

            hans

            • Oct 1, 2015 - 10:47 AM - Robert Comment Link

              Hans,

              As I suspected, the vendor did not cancel the order so I was able to test the third item and it works. The housing is plastic vs metal but it can be powered via a USB port which is nice. In summary, item’s 1 and 3 worked but item 2 did not. That’s all I have for now.

              – Robert

              Robert

            • Oct 2, 2015 - 3:20 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome Robert!

              Thanks for the info! 

              hans

    • Sep 16, 2015 - 2:33 AM - BarnsyBDC Comment Link

      Hi Robert

      I will need to purchase a 5V to USB cable to go along with this first item you purchased that worked for you…can you tell me what the exact sizing is of the 5V round socket ?

      ie: the pin size and the overall size, I’m guessing it’s 5.5mm x 2.1mm or thereabouts but guessing could end in disaster ;)

      Cheers mate

      Reply

      BarnsyBDC

      • Sep 16, 2015 - 2:49 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Don’t forget to double check out + and – too … usually the + is the center “hole” of the connector, but some manufacturer do it the other way around (+ outside, – inside).

        Reply

        hans

      • Sep 16, 2015 - 10:50 AM - Robert Comment Link

        There are dozens of socket/pin sizes. That being said, it looks like 5.5mm x 2.1mm as you surmised. To be sure, you can always build the cable using the wall wart that’s included with the unit and a USB cable that passes power by connecting power & ground to power & ground. The wall wort output says 5v 1amp. I haven’t looked into the power output of the various USB standards. I hope this helps.

        Reply

        Robert

        • Sep 17, 2015 - 3:20 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          I’d probably do the same – use the wire that is connected to the power brick.
          Use a multimeter to test which of the 2 wires is +.

          That said: if you have a USB connector that allows you to charge cellphones (which often provide 1A or more, with 5V), then you should probably be fine.

          Reply

          hans

        • Oct 1, 2015 - 7:34 PM - BarnsyBDC Comment Link

          Hi again Robert

          I read that the third item you tested worked fine and could be powered by USB, which is what I am after.

          Any chance you could post in the link as to where you purchased it from so I can order one for myself?

          Would be truly appreciated.

          Cheers mate

          Reply

          BarnsyBDC

    • Oct 1, 2015 - 10:21 AM - JeffG Comment Link

      Hello, I am trying to connect my Xfinity X1 cable box which only has an HDMI out port through my Hauppauge HDPVR2 1512 with component cables (because of the encryption) to my TV then to to my computer to record a ballgame. I did this in the past with my old Xfinity cable box that had component cable out ports. I found a Portta video converter that has an HDMI in port to component out ports and was wondering if anyone knows if it will work to get the game copied to my computer. Thanks.

      Reply

      JeffG

      • Oct 1, 2015 - 10:37 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Jeff,

        I’m not familiar with a Portta Video converter, but your problem is most likely HDMI HDCP protection on the HDMI out of your Cable Box.
        I don’t know if Portta Video Converter will strip the HDCP. However, if you add one of the HDMI splitters between your Cable Box and your video converter (which converts HDMI to component), then theoretically, you should be good to go.

        So HDMI out of Cable Box goes to splitter, one output of the Splitter to your TV (of your cable box has only one HDMI out), and the other output of the splitter to your HDMI-to-Component converter. The Component of your HDMI-to-Component converter to your Hauppauge, and your Hauppauge to your TV. … wow that were a lot of words haha … hope this clears it up … 

        Reply

        hans

        • Oct 1, 2015 - 7:45 PM - JeffG Comment Link

          Thanks Hans, I appreciate the help… I do not have the Portta video converter yet but I think I will order one to see if that works. It sounds like I need to get an HDMI splitter as well since the cable box only has 1 HDMI output.

          Reply

          JeffG

        • Oct 2, 2015 - 3:18 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi Jeff,

          I’m not sure how expensive a Portta Video Converter is, but … it might be easier to get a splitter (as listed above), and combine it with a Elgato GameCapture HD

          The setup would be easy: 

          Cable Box HDMI -> Elgato -> Computer (suitable for Windows, Mac). 

          Pretty simple setup and works really well and captures in great quality.
          You wouldn’t loose quality by converting either.

          Reply

          hans

          • Oct 3, 2015 - 9:50 PM - JeffG Comment Link

            Thanks again Hans, I already purchased a splitter and a video converter device for $27 so if that doesn’t work I’m not out much, just waiting on them to arrive in the mail… do you know if the Elgato Game Capture Device (which looks to only have HDMI ports, 1 in & 1 out) could be used as the pass through device to record live tv to my computer? That is what I used the Hauppauge PVR for until I got the xfinity X1 cable box that only has the 1 HDMI out port. If the Elgato does that I might get it but I was under the impression that the HDCP protection would not allow you to record programming through HDMI cables like you could through Component Cables.

            Reply

            JeffG

            • Oct 4, 2015 - 3:33 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Hi Jeff!

              Yes, the Elgato Game CaptureHD is a pass-through device, so you can use it to do live recordings from your TV/Cable box. In it’s basic setup, it basically “sits” between your cable box and your TV (for example). The USB cable then goes to your PC so you can record the video on your PC with the provided software of Elgato.

              This works great for a HDMI signal that does not have HDCP protection.

              Since the Elgato cannot record HDCP protected HDMI signal, one of these cheap splitters is needed to remove the HDCP protection before it gets to the Elgato.

              So the splitter will actually take the HDCP protected HDMI input, and then output that same signal minus the HDCP protection on both splitter HDMI outputs. This way the Elgato can actually read the signal.

              That setup would look something like this:

              Cable box –> HDMI Splitter (HDCP stripper) –> Elgato –> TV

              with a USB cable coming from the Elgato, which goes to your PC.
              You could of course also connect the TV straight to the splitter instead of the HDMI output of the Elgato.

              hans

    • Oct 2, 2015 - 10:52 AM - Steve Comment Link

      Hi there, 

      Thanks for sharing this great article; it has educated an otherwise tech-ignorant Luddite!

      I wanted to ask if you know anyway to adapt a HDCP compliant splitter so that it will strip HDCP protocol? I have an Aten VS184 which is being rather uncooperative in trying to split my digital TV box between my TV and a projector, so before I go buy another non-HDCP splitter, I wondered if I could encourage the Aten to play ball?! 

      Any assistance much appreciated! 

      Thanks

      Steve

      Reply

      Steve

      • Oct 3, 2015 - 4:07 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Steve,

        Thank you very much for the compliment, it’s very much appreciated! 

        As for modifying an existing non-HDCP-stripping HDMI splitter … ehm I do not think that would be an easy task.
        I have read somewhere, so this might not be 100% true, that the cheap splitters that do strip HDCP, actually use a chip that belongs in a TV, and therefor is identified as a “compliant” device, allowing to strip HDCP. If that is the fact, then the chip in your splitter would be the wrong one. Probably easier and more feasible to buy one of those cheap ones that do work.

        Reply

        hans

    • Oct 4, 2015 - 8:06 PM - JeffG Comment Link

      Thanks again Hans, When I receive the splitter and video converter I’ll let you know how well it works with the Hauppauge PVR pass through device.

      Reply

      JeffG

      • Oct 5, 2015 - 3:20 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Sounds good 

        Reply

        hans

        • Oct 26, 2015 - 10:14 PM - JeffG Comment Link

          Hans, I received the HD video converter box in the mail and it worked. I was able to get a test program recorded from my cable box to my computer.

          How it looks… HDMI cable out of the Cable box and into the HD video converter box, then component cables out of the HD converter and into the Hauppauge PVR and HDMI cable from the Hauppauge PVR to the TV, then USB cable from the Hauppauge PVR to PC. I actually did not need the extra HDMI splitter, but now I have one in case I ever need one.

          Simple really haha. Thanks again for your help.

          Reply

          JeffG

        • Oct 27, 2015 - 4:07 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Awesome Jeff!

          Glad you got it to work 

          Reply

          hans

    • Oct 28, 2015 - 2:36 PM - Trevor Comment Link

      Hey Guys,

      Does anyone have any experience with any of the 1 x 4 splitters? I have gone thru several different types of the 1 x 2 splitters with limited success. I have gotten the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 powered HDMI Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3D) to work (Mac Mini output to Splitter : Output 1 to TV and Output 2 to Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record). Now home, I hook the splitter up to the HDMI output of my Onkyo receiver (that has various HDMI inputs – Bluray, Apple TV, cable box) send Output 1 to the TV and Output 2 to the LGP. LGP no longer records.

      Does the splitter need to be between the device (Bluray, AppleTV, Cable Box) before outputting to the reciever which outputs to the TV? What are the setups that others are using when a stereo receiver is in the mix?

      I have an HDMI to component converter that feeds a Blackmagic H.264 recorder, and this works fine except the resulting MP4 is skewed to the left resulting in a slight loss of picture and vertical black line on the right side of the file. There’s no adjustment for this and I assume it is partially due to the HDCP. Trying to make this a straight HDMI feed. The LGP is just an easier setup because it can be used as standalone whereas the Blackmagic H.264 is dependent on a secondary computer.

      Thank you for any help/suggestions.

      Trev

      Reply

      Trevor

      • Oct 28, 2015 - 2:52 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Trev,

        I have no experience with 1×4 splitters, but good experience with 1×2 splitters (or I just got very lucky).
        There are a few things I’ve read while researching the topic;

        1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.

        I’m guessing the splitter will use the first device to swap ID’s and such.
        Not sure if the 2nd device can be connected at startup of the source device, or should be connected after things on the first output are up and running.

        2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.

        I have no clue how problematic that could be with 1.4 or newer HDMI devices. Although I cannot imagine that all 1.4+ devices would cripple pre-1.4 devices, can you imagine how many TV’s would need to be tossed? 

        3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.

        In those cases your setup should just work … I’d assume.

        Something I’d try first is connecting a TV instead of the LGP, just to see if there is anything to begin with.

        You did bring an interesting suggestion though; putting the splitter between source and your Onkyo,
        Worth a test I would say, and it would s*ck if this would become the way to work.

        Reply

        hans

        • Oct 28, 2015 - 4:41 PM - Trevor Comment Link

          Hello Hans!

          Thank you for your quick reply. I guess what I need to know, what are guys, that got this to work, doing with multiple devices (Cable Box. FireTV, AppleTV, Bluray, Game Console). Do they put a single splitter after every device? Send all devices into an HDMI switch (Multiple Inputs to 1 HDMI Output) and then to the 1×2 Splitter? Or like me, all devices into a receiver with an HDMI output (in my case the Onkyo has 2 HDMI outputs).

          My original setup was – devices HDMIs to Onkyo receiver. Onkyo main HDMI output to TV. Onkyo sub HDMI to HDMI to Component Converter. Component Converter to Blackmagic H.264 recorder (hooked to a Mac Mini running Blackmagic software for recording). This works great, except for the slightly misaligned picture. If I hook up the ElGato EyeTV HD with component inputs- no signal is seen coming from the Component Converter.

          So, in place of the the HDMI to Component Converter I added the Splitter. Output 1 to the TV, Output 2 to the LGP. No dice. Swapped the Outputs on the Switcher. Still nothing. Tested the LGP and it is passing the signal thru itself to the TV, just no go on the record side. The reasons I’m trying to use the LGP – 1) Video straight thru via HDMI and 2) using the LGP as a standalone unit thus freeing up my Mac Mini for other uses.

          I’ve tried a Sewell, a no name splitter, and the ViewHD, all are 1×2 splitters. So if there is anyone that has had any luck using the 1×4 splitter, I would be greatful to find out which one works and a link to where it can be bought.

          To your responses:

          1) Some of these splitters need a “legit” device on the first HDMI output.

          Yes, I did make sure that the TV was on the first output. Then tried the second output.

          2) Most of the HDCP ripping capable splitters support up to HDMI standard 1.3.

          I have pretty much made sure not to do any firmware upgrades on the devices to avoid HDMI Standard 1.4. But it wouldn’t surprise me if the manufacturers wanted us to all invest in new TVs. HD 1080p was supposed to be enough but now they are pushing 4K sets on us. Great

          3) I’ve read in several places that some of these splitters actually use a legit TV chipset to handle decryption.

          Yes, that seemed to be the case. I have a feeling that I’m just too late to the game getting any of the early splitters that work this way.

          I hope that anyone who has recently purchased a 1×2 or 1×4 Splitter and had it work in the way we’ve been talking about, will add to this discussion. A new list of working splitters, with model numbers, date aquired, date of actual HDCP decryption and links to where the splitter was bought would be fantastic.

          In all my web searches, this has been the best sight with any kind of helpful information in this issue. Highest of praise to the moderators!!

          I’m heading to my parents house for the week, so I’m done trying anything else for the day.  When I get back I will try putting the splitter directly after the device before going thru the Onkyo and get back with the results. Again, thank you Hans for your valued input!

          Reply

          Trevor

          • Oct 29, 2015 - 2:31 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Hi Trevor,

            First of all; thanks for the compliments! 

            I would expect that most would feed all HDMI’s to their receiver, and have the output of the receiver connected to the splitter. From there go to TV and recorder (or what I’m planning to do: to an AmbiLight/Boblight setup). I haven’t had much of a chance to test this though.

            So basically your old setup, with the splitter on your HDMI main output (instead of the the sub). Could it be that the sub output is actually causing the issue? Did you try that?

            As for TV’s, did you see they already started pushing 8K TV’s?
            I don’t think I’ll be upgrading my 1080p TV anytime soon haha. Who knows; by the time it’s dying we might be looking at 4 more generations haha.

            Reply

            hans

    • Nov 4, 2015 - 12:38 PM - milo Comment Link

      To anyone having issues with the black screen for fire tv updates, I’ve tried several splitters. The only one that has removed hdcp was KanexPro SP-HD1X24K 4K HDMI 2-Port Splitter. Got it at my local Fry’s for about 30 bucks. Removes hdcp.

      Reply

      milo

      • Nov 4, 2015 - 1:59 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Milo for posting the link for a working HDMI splitter/DHCP stripper … 

        Reply

        hans

      • Dec 30, 2015 - 4:05 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        Can you please post which model it is? The one at the link says it’s HDMI 1.4 that supports up to 4k so I’m guessing it was updated recently? Thanks. Am looking for a working splitter.. Seems like I’m just a couple months or so too late apparently.. 

        Reply

        dominick_7

        • Dec 30, 2015 - 8:19 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          I have the suspicion that the HDMI 1.4 / 4K models are indeed the models that do NOT work for HDCP stripping.

          You could also look at AliExpress – they shamelessly mention their splitters to strip HDPC, I guess regulations are a little different there 
          I have done some shopping there in the past and it always has been a good experience. Downside is that shipping usually takes about 2 weeks.

          Reply

          hans

          • Dec 30, 2015 - 8:59 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            Thanks for the reply. Yea think you’re likely right. The problem is even the ones that are listed as 1.3 if they’re 1.3b Ive seen those can also be compatible with 1.4.

            That site for some reason confuses me. Do you happen to see any that look promising you could share please? For some reason everything on it looks shady to me for some reason lol. Probably just not familiar enough with it to know what to look for. Haha probably.

            Cool, I can wait… I guess.. have the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 sitting there waiting to be used as of yesterday.

            Reply

            dominick_7

          • Dec 30, 2015 - 9:35 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Yeah AliExpress has a reputation when it comes to confusing customers – very true! 
            Contradicting statements (advertise HDMI 1.4, but listing 1.3b), poor translations from Chinese (I guess), and incomplete info (HDCP stripper in the title, but nowhere to be found in the text).

            What I’d do:

            – look for one that actually states “HDCP Stripper” in the title and in the body (text)
            – look at reviews/comments, see if anyone confirms that it actually strips HDCP
            – contact the seller an ask if it’s REALLY stripping HDCP (you’ll find that option, on the left, just under the “main” picture, under the heading “Sold By”)

            AliExpress has buyer protection and in my experience the sellers are pretty eager to make sure you’re not complaining about them. So if you order one (for example this one – $11 with free shipping) you at least have reasons for them to correct the situation if the splitter is not doing HDPC stripping). So far, and I have ordered stuff with them plenty of times in the past, I have encountered only one instance where I had to complain with the seller. They fixed it pretty quick, and send me a free new item (this was not an HDMI splitter).

            Reply

            hans

            • Jan 2, 2016 - 10:05 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              So it seems :) Glad I’m not the only one that thinks that. The ones I’ve seen on eBay and I think also Amazon will advertise 1.3c but compatible with 1.4. Yea maybe. Mhmm.

              Ended up buying the HDFury Integral because I was the highest quality recordings and a cheapo one from eBay. Bought the Hauppauge HD PVR 60 for me and thinking that I’ll trade in my 1212 for a Gaming Edition one. If the cheap one doesn’t work the AliExpress one looks nice ty for the recommendation.

              dominick_7

      • Dec 30, 2015 - 5:09 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        Do you know the model# and specs? Seems that this one supports 4k so I’m assuming they updated it to where it won’t strip HDCP anymore..

        Reply

        dominick_7

    • Nov 25, 2015 - 10:47 AM - Brian Comment Link

      Anyone have positive experience with the following device?

       http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TF9MCXU?psc=1

      Reply

      Brian

      • Nov 25, 2015 - 4:10 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        That looks like something that could work well … reviews state recording HDCP protected video. Hmm. Interesting.

        I have no experience with it though,… 

        Reply

        hans

      • Nov 25, 2015 - 4:38 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Just saw your post with the link and ordered it from Amazon.  Supposed to be here by Saturday so I will let you know how it does.  I’ve kinda sidestepped my recording HDMI for the moment to record a bunch of old family VHS tapes.  But as soon as the device arrives, I will put it to the test and post my findings here.

        Reply

        Trev

      • Nov 25, 2015 - 4:42 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Ok. Crap. Says that the device might not arrive till around Dec 22nd.  Ok. I will be getting back to you with a report on this as soon as it arrives…

        Reply

        Trev

        • Nov 26, 2015 - 8:28 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          I looked at that expected delivery date as well … Somewhere between Dec 22 and Jan 11?
          I guess it’s being shipped from China ..?

          Let us know how well it works once you’ve received and tested one – I’m curious!!! 

          Reply

          hans

          • Nov 27, 2015 - 2:30 PM - Trev Comment Link

            Just checked Amazon and yes, it is coming from China.  Got the following in an email from the company:

            Thank you for your purchase and prompt payment. Your item has been shipped by registered airmail today. The detailed information of shipping as below:
            Item title: HDMI-Cloner Box Suite  (latest firmware)
            Estimated arrival time:  7-10 days

            In the process of recording certain video sources, TV may display black screen. Please proceed as follows:

            1. Please confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
            2. Please press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.

            If your TV still displays black screen, please proceed as follows.
            1. Power off HDMI-Cloner Box and restart it again.
            2. Wait for 10 seconds, and then confirm LED is solid BLUE or solid GREEN (NO FLASHING).
            3. Press REC button (hold it for about 5 seconds or longer), and then you can see pictures on your TV.
            There are more step-by-step instructions with both texts and pictures at our website.

            HDMI-Cloner Helper is the bonus software of HDMI-Cloner Box Suite, which is a smart program to merge files, trim video, create DVD/Blu-ray movie discs from video file, etc. This is your registration information for the HDMI-Cloner Helper.

            Please download the software on ClonerAlliance Inc.’s official website.

            So as soon as it arrives, I will put it to the test and report back here.  Brian – Thanks again for posting this devices link!

            Reply

            Trev

          • Nov 28, 2015 - 9:44 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Awesome! Kind-a sounds like this gadget would record even HDCP protected HDMI, which would be great.
            Please post your findings, I might order one as well … 

            Reply

            hans

            • Dec 8, 2015 - 11:04 AM - Trev Comment Link

              YAY!!! The HDMI Cloner Box arrived! It actually arrived yesterday but just picked it up today.  It took just under 2 weeks to get here from China, so I’m thoroughly pleased with that (Amazon estimated a Jan 11th delivery). As soon as I get home from work, I will get it set up and get back with some details.

              Trev

            • Dec 8, 2015 - 11:05 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome!!!!!!! Can’t wait to hear your findings!!!! 

              I bet you feel an illness coming up, so you need to go home right away haha … 

              hans

            • Dec 8, 2015 - 11:17 AM - Trev Comment Link

              4 hours and 43 minutes and counting…

              Trev

            • Dec 8, 2015 - 11:17 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              I sympathize and feel the torture of waiting 

              hans

            • Dec 10, 2015 - 4:09 PM - trev Comment Link

              Hey Guys!

              Sorry for the delay in getting back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box. I’ll add on my findings down below.

              trev

      • Dec 10, 2015 - 3:52 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Hey Guys!

        Sorry it has taken awhile to get back to you about the Cloner Alliance HDMI Cloner Box.  Please see the post further down.

        Reply

        Trev

        • Dec 10, 2015 - 4:44 PM - trev Comment Link

          Hello Hans!
          I tried putting up a long post, but it is not posting.  Any assistance is appreciated. Maybe better to put it in a forum?

          Reply

          trev

          • Dec 10, 2015 - 6:03 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            The Forum would be great … Maybe under the “Video” section?
            I would be interested in finding out why the post failed though … 

            I’ll be looking forward to your findings though!!!! 

            Reply

            hans

          • Dec 11, 2015 - 9:49 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            A review by Trev of the HMDI Cloner Box:

            Note: The HMDI Cloner Box is a $100 standalone HDMI recorder, which appears to [not] strip HDCP.

            This is a brief review of the HMDI Cloner Box (referred to as “C-B”) from Cloner Alliance as purchased thru Amazon (link).

            Just looked at the link and now thru Christmas they are offering a 16GB USB2 thumb drive instead of the 2GB that I received.
            I am continuing to test this on 2 separate Samsung LED HDTVs, so bare with me. With both setups, I have a BluRay player and an Apple TV3 going HDMI into an Onkyo Stereo receiver that has 2 HDMIs out. The primary HDMI output going to the Samsung HDTV, the secondary going to my recording device.
            I have 4 different recorders. The Blackmagic H.264 and EyeTV HD, both of which require a software on a computer to record (I’m using a Mac Mini). The Avermedia Live Gamer Portable (using a 64GB SD card after setting the LGP to its highest record setting -8Mbps- using the computer software) and the recently acquired C-B.

            With the C-B, I thought it best to hook it directly to the source and TV. The instructions are very simple and straightforward. I hooked up all the necessary cable (power, 2 HDMI cables – 1 In, 1 Out) then plugged in my 64GB USB 3 thumb drive formatted NTFS. According to the manual, NTFS will record a single file while FAT32 will record as many 2GB files as necessary. I then turned everything on, the LED on the HDMI Cloner box settle on blue (1080i/p), and worked my way thru the Apple TV3 to Netflix selected a movie, pressed record and let it go.
            Netflix started playing but within 4 seconds paused and gave that familiar warning about HDCP.
            I decided to try the trailers app instead and they seemed to play ok so I tried recording Superman vs Batman. The C-B flashed that it was recording, when the trailer finished, I hit the rec/stop button, the C-B flashed a few times showing it was finishing its write to the USB flash drive. Took the drive to my Mac and there was NO file.

            I tried several reformats of the 64GB USB drive and no recorded file after multiple attempts. I then tried the 2GB drive that came with the C-B, and it recorded the trailer perfectly. I then tried Netflix with the 2GB drive and still no go due to HDCP non compliance in the system.
            I then got my 32GB USB 3 thumb drive, formatted it NTFS, tried a movie trailer record and no file. Reformatted it FAT32, tried recording a trailer and it worked. So this far into it, I have determined that I am not able to record to a drive larger than 32GB – Manual says it can handle 2TB storage. I will try a 2TB hard drive thru a USB 3 dock I have later.

            NOTE: The Apple TV3 I am using so far has software version 7.2. The other one I have is running version 6.2. I have tried to keep at least one of them from updating the software since I originally purchased them.

            NOTE: Having a flash drive with an LED helps to confirm that the C-B is actually “talking” to it since you have no other way to confirm it is till the end of the recording process. The 64GB drive had none but the 32GB one I have does and helped re-assure that something was happening.
            So straight out of the box, I am having no luck in doing a straight record from an Apple TV3 with content that has HDCP.

            I decided to try adding a splitter to the mix (specifically the ViewHD VHD-1X2MN3D). I have 3 versions of this splitter and chose the oldest one of the three to experiment with first. So the HDMI pathway that I now have hooked up is Apple TV3 to ViewHD – Output 1 to HDMI In 1 on the TV Output 2 to the C-B with HDMI output to HDMI in 2 on the TV. This allows me to verify the signal out of the Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV and to switch over to HDMI 2 on the TV to verify the HDMI feed thru the C-B.

            Sorry if some of this sounds repetitive, just trying to make sure my thought process is easy to follow.
            Turning everything on, Apple TV3 thru the splitter to the TV comes up with a clean signal (no flashing, no blips of green digital mess like I get when the second output of the splitter is hooked up to a noncompliant HDCP device) so I switched to Input 2 of the TV and verified that the signal coming thru the C-B was fine.

            I navigated thru the Apple TV3 menu to Netflix, chose a movie, started the record on the C-B then started the movie. Two hours and 40 minutes later, I stopped the record, the C-B flashed a few times and stopped. Took the USB drive to my computer and I have a single 11.94GB mp4 file. Checking it, the file is GOOD!! So the 32GB USB3 thumb drive formatted for NTFS worked properly (I thought I had reformatted it FAT32 – guess not). The file is 1080p and looks great – for Netflix. The Avermedia LGP recorder had no such luck in this configuration in place of the C-B.
            When I have the time, I will try other splitters I have with this setup, as well as trying the C-P in line after my Onkyo Stereo and various other setups. I will post my findings as soon as possible.

            So, my quick findings confirm that the HDMI Cloner Box, in conjunction with the ViewHD splitter, will overcome the HDCP coming from content streamed thru my Apple TV3.
            This is great if you want a stand alone recorder. It sucks having to tie up a computer using software and a capture device.

            Reply

            hans

            • Dec 12, 2015 - 4:16 PM - Trev Comment Link

              REVISED 10-12-2015: After reading some other posts about the HDMI Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance, I found that this device will ABSOLUTELY record HDCP signals right out of the box!! I took apart and reset all my devices and cabling.  The A-TV3 HDMI straight into the C-B, to the Samsung LED HDTV HDMI Input 1. I then avigated to Netflix, picked a movie, on the C-B I pressed and held down the REC/Stop button for 5 seconds to change the LED to green (720p record).  I then pressed and held down the REC/Stop button again for 5 seconds to change back to blue LED (1080p record) while selecting play on Netflix. Once the movie started playing I let go of the REC/Stop button and the C-B flashed it was recording.  Once the movie was done, I hit REC/Stop on the C-B, let the LED flash a few times before it went solid, removed the 32GB thumb drive.  I have a nice mp4 file of The Devil’s Advocate at 2 hours 23 minutes and 50 seconds taking up 10.95GB.

              In my post above, I couldn’t get a 64GB thumb drive to work. Upon further online reading, this device seems to be picky about the thumb drive attached.  So I figure I’ll get a Lexar media thumb drive since they do not throttle their record rates like Sandisk does.

              So, if you are looking at this device to record HDCP content without any extra devices hooked up, it absolutely does!

              Trev

            • Dec 13, 2015 - 9:42 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome! Glad to hear it DOES work! 

              Thanks for the update Trev! 

              hans

            • Dec 13, 2015 - 1:58 PM - Trev Comment Link

              So the one shortcoming of the HDMI Cloner Box is that it will not record audio in 5.1, only stereo. Maybe a newer box is in the works that will record 5.1 or hopefully a firmware update.

              Trev

            • Dec 13, 2015 - 2:40 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              That’s a slight bummer … well, I’d assume firmware updates will become available.

              Did they provide a link?

              hans

            • Dec 14, 2015 - 7:49 AM - Trev Comment Link

              Good morning Hans,

              Yes, here is the link to their software and firmware updates.  http://www.cloner-alliance.com/download.html

              The last firmware update was from May of 2015 so I pretty much assume the C-B I have has it already, but it does not address the issue of only stereo records.

              Recording on the box has been going great! No need for any splitter.  The C-B is super light weight and I really thought I’d been sent an empty box, but everything works as described. I do wish the C-B drew its power thru a USB port instead of a power adapter, like the Avermedia LGP since I have plenty of USB ports available.  Would make it a little more portable, not having to pack an extra power supply.  It does get really hot while running and I wish they had some more venting other than the vents on the bottom of the box. I have it elevated and a small USB fan blowing on it to help keep it cool. I’m half tempted to buy another one just as a backup.

              Again, I can not recommend this recorder enough!  Picture quality is great and if they come out with a firmware update to change the audio to a 5.1 record I would give this a full 5 stars on Amazon.

              Trev

            • Dec 14, 2015 - 8:25 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Yeah, I can imagine that people would like the 5.1 Audio …

              As for getting hot; maybe open it up and place a few small heatsinks, and add some holes to the casing?
              Small stuff like that getting very hot makes me nervous as well. 

              Does the power supply state how many Amps it’s pulling? If it gets really hot, I’d assume it will be up there, and a regular USB2 or maybe even USB3 port might not pull it off.

              Thank you very much for the review – please let us know when an update appears for the 5.1 Audio.

              For now, I’ll stick with my Elgato – I’m not using it for recording movies, just for screenshots or short clips and such for articles. Stripping HDPC for me is mostly so I can make Ambient lighting for my TV for ALL sources. 

              hans

            • Dec 15, 2015 - 2:44 PM - trev Comment Link

              No word yet from Cloner Alliance on an update, sadly.

              Output on the adapter is 5v 2.0A.

              I would take the C-B apart and drill holes in the cover if not for the warning about voiding the “waranty”.  Once that time period has expired, I will be sure to modify the case and innards.

              trev

          • Dec 15, 2015 - 4:40 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Yeah 2 A would be too much for a regular USB port.

            USB 1.x and 2.0 can handle up from 100 mA to 500 mA (0.1 A … 0.5 A), where as USB 3.0 can handle 150 mA … 900 mA (0.15 A … 0.9 A),… so 2 A would be too much. 

            A good USB charger for a modern smartphone or tablet could pull it off, depending on brand and model. 

            As for cooling; you could try and see if you can pop it open …?

            Did you try to contact them concerning the firmware?

            Reply

            hans

            • Dec 15, 2015 - 6:15 PM - trev Comment Link

              Yes, I sent them an email this morning, but no response yet.

              Yes, I carry a dual USB charger when I travel that would take care of power to the C-B.  That would eliminate the need for their wall wart.  The AverMedia LGP is a bit heavier than the C-B and basically does the same thing, but is powered thru a USB port.  I can’t imagine the internals are much different.

              Yes, I might be able to just pop the top.  With the fan on it, I feel better about it. 

              trev

            • Dec 16, 2015 - 8:52 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Yeah I suppose most of these devices use the same or similar chipsets.
              The do probably use a different chip for talking HDMI (because of the HDCP stripping).

              A fan would do the trick! I prefer passive cooling because of the noise, but a fan is always more effective.

              My Elgato Game Capture HD is powered through the USB bus as well.

              If I recall correctly; if your device tries to pull too much power from a USB, then simply nothing happens. Something with the circuitry of the USB bus of your computer protecting it from overloading. I’m thinking of all the times I’ve hooked up an external 3.5″ disk that pulled too much power haha …

              hans

    • Nov 26, 2015 - 8:07 PM - Me Here Comment Link

      I have successfully used this to strip HDCP from Foxtel (recorded content on an iQ) and been able to record it.

      ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-VHD-1X2MN3D

      Reply

      Me Here

      • Nov 27, 2015 - 8:43 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks “Me Here”! 

        If anyone else has been using this splitter, then please post confirmations here as well … please 

        Reply

        hans

        • Nov 27, 2015 - 2:40 PM - Trev Comment Link

          Yes, I have 3 of the same model, 1 older than the other 2.  The older one I have successfully been able to use between a Mac Mini HDMI to the ViewHD Splitter sending Output 1 to the LCD TV and Output 2 to the Avermedia Live Gamer Portable to record from Heche Bee OH streaming.  However, I have not been able to get this to work with an AppleTV.

          Me Here – So Foxtel is Australian pay television service.  So you are coming out an iQ cable box/DVR to the splitter.  Nice!  What are you using to do the record?

          Reply

          Trev

        • Nov 28, 2015 - 9:42 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Thanks again Trev! The more confirmations we get, the better.
          I have an (apparently) older version that does work. Maybe they are catching up … 

          Reply

          hans

    • Nov 27, 2015 - 12:30 PM - J W Comment Link

      Good afternoon. I purchased the splitter below in hops that it would be able to bypass the HDCP in a Playstation TV device.

      ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter

      While using it (In collaboration with my elgato), it does not rip the HDCP from it. Using my other devices connected to it (A PS4 (With the HDCP Enabled option turned OFF) and a Wii U System) raised zero problems, and thus, I am able to record gameplay perfectly fine. My connections are perfectly fine, and nothing is damaged/broken. So either the splitter cannot strip the HDCP on a Playstation TV system, or my splitter is possibly faulty.

      Reply

      J W

      • Nov 27, 2015 - 12:42 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks J W for reporting this!
        I’ve updated the article to reflect that this splitter might not work. 

        Reply

        hans

      • Nov 27, 2015 - 2:47 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Thank you for posting your results with the ViewHD Splitter. I too have had hit or miss results with this splitter as well.

        Reply

        Trev

      • Nov 28, 2015 - 9:40 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Trev for confirming the hit and miss situation with this splitter. 

        Reply

        hans

    • Dec 4, 2015 - 3:13 PM - Ethan Comment Link

      I have two HDMI splitters and a Hauppauge HD PVR 2 Gaming Edition. The splitters works fine without it plugged in to the capture device. However, I try plugging the output on the splitter into the input on the capture device, blank screen, yet detected.

      My setup is the PS3 to the splitter to the capture device. I tried both of them with no luck. Can anyone help?

      Reply

      Ethan

      • Dec 4, 2015 - 3:32 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Ethan,

        not all splitters strip the HDCP protection, other splitters require the primary output of the splitter to be connected to a legit device, for example your TV before the second HDMI output actually works.

        If one of your splitters support HDCP stripping, then a PS3 should not cause any problems (according to this forum post).

        I’d try PS3 -> Splitter -> TV (1st HDMI output). Once that works, plugin your Hauppauge in the 2nd HDMI output of the splitter, possibly while your PS3 and TV are running. So TV and capture device should be connected at the same time.

        If this does not work for both splitters, then I’m afraid you have HDMI splitters that do not support HDCP stripping.
        I found that newer splitters do not strip HDCP, the same goes for HDMI splitters that support HDMI 1.4 and newer.

        Not sure if this is helpful, I hope it does.

        p.s. some splitters prefer it that you connect everything before you power up the splitter.

        Reply

        hans

      • Dec 6, 2015 - 9:33 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Hey Ethan,

        Yes, it has been a hit or miss with 1×2 HDMI Splitters and especially as of late. Currently, the only success I have had at TRULY stripping HDCP has been when using the ViewHD HDMI 1×2 Splitter (Model# VHD-1X2MN3d) receiving signal from a Mac Mini, Output 1 on the splitter going to a TV Output 2 going to an AverMedia Live Gamer Portable. I am able to record streaming movies from one of the paid subscriber services. Not having a PS3, I can not tell you if this Splitter would work for you. However, I have gone thru quite a few Splitters that just do not strip the HDCP.  You can read in some of the previous posts what I have that has and has not worked.

        Currently I am waiting on a record device that has said that it overcomes HDCP as well as an HDMI 4×2 matrix switch. As soon as I receive these items, get them set up and tested, I will be posting my findings here.

        Reply

        Trev

    • Dec 12, 2015 - 12:29 PM - vincent Comment Link

      I saw that this item is not available anymore.I searched on ebay for the same thing, but the specs seems a bit off (the bandwith/operating frequency is different which make me worry about a fake one/different one with other chipset).This is the one linked in the article:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/251286040661This one is the one I found:-> http://www.ebay.com/itm/XU-HDMI-1-3-1×2-1-to-2-1080P-3D-Splitter-Amplifier-1-in-2-out-for-Dual-Dispaly-/321609008890

      Reply

      vincent

      • Dec 13, 2015 - 9:40 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Vicent,

        Most splitters look very much alike, so it’s pretty much impossible to find the one that strips HDCP. Unless the list it as such or by … well, buying it and testing the splitter.

        Even models that work today, might not work when you buy the same one tomorrow. Kind-a why we’re listing our experiences here.
        For example, the one I bought works, but the newer versions no longer seem to strip HDCP.

        As for the specs, well, I’m not sure these folks that list them, pay much attention to detail.
        The only thing I looked for is that is should be a splitter supporting HDMI less than version 1.4.

        Reply

        hans

    • Jan 1, 2016 - 1:31 AM - Jeffrey Comment Link

      Hi need some help here.

      I’m an artist that likes to take screenshots from movies and jazz them up for my own personal projects.

      I have an Elgato60HD, but my PS3 doesn’t work with it. I also have an older Samsung Blu-Ray player but when I tried using it with the Elgato directly, I just got blank screen on my computer and TV due to HDCP.

      Now I’ve read when you are able to bypass the PS3’s HDCP, it only outputs at 720p. With my blu-ray player, I want to max out at 1080p to get the best quality image from the movie for the screenshot (which I play around with in Photoshop later on). 

      Will purchasing one of these splitters help me use my Elgato60HD in conjunction with my blu-ray player as in :

      Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder

      And will it maintain the 1080p output from the blu-ray player?

      I have a MacbookPro, and I theoretically could get an external blu-ray drive to watch movies on my Macbook and take screens from there, but since I already have an Elgato recorder, it may just be cheaper for me to get the Splitter instead of an External Blu-ray Drive.

      Reply

      Jeffrey

      • Jan 1, 2016 - 11:53 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Happy New Year Jeffrey!

        The Elgato60HD can do 1080p, so the setup you suggest should enable you to take screenshots in 1080p.
        (Blu-ray Player -> HDMI Splitter -> Output 1 -TV + Output 2 -Elgato60HD Recorder)

        The trick seems to be that not every HDMI splitter strips HDCP, so it’s kind of a hit and miss at times.
        I have listed a few models (mind the warnings) that have been reported to work/fail – this is not a guarantee those models work, since manufacturers update their devices to slightly “improved” specs. Also read the comments here, and with listed splitters, to exclude the ones that have fail for others.

        If you buy one, then definitely look for confirmation in the item description if the seller claims HDCP stripping, or contact the seller to ask for confirmation.

        Besides Amazon, AliExpress seems a good resource as well – again; double check with the seller(s). The ones at AliExpress seem a lot cheaper ($11 with free shipping!), but the listed splitters have incomplete and conflicting information (for example: it lists as HDMI 1.4, but in the details it says 1.3b).

        Oh and if you found one there; please post the link here so others can use the link as well. 

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 1, 2016 - 12:53 PM - Jeffrey Comment Link

          Hey Han, thanks for the response.

          I found this one 

          SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8

          Reading the most recent customer reviews (less than 3 months), it appears customers are getting some success like the ViewHD Splitter.

          Although the seller doesn’t put the claim it strips HDCP, it does say HDMI 1.3, not 1.4

          Again if you read the customer reviews, it looks like many are getting success, some aren’t. But I’m wondering if that’s customer malfunction more than item.

          Reply

          Jeffrey

          • Jan 7, 2016 - 4:35 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            @Jeffrey looks very much like the one I got from eBay that works but didnt label it as HDCP stripping and they didn’t know.

            Reply

            dominick_7

        • Jan 2, 2016 - 8:48 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Reading the comments, I’d say this could be a winner … it looks like a spitting image of the one I have. 
          When looking at the most recent reviews, from November 2015, I’d guess this one might work.
          If you decide to get one, please post your experiences here, so I can add it to the list if it does work.  

          In the meanwhile, I’m still waiting for a response from the AliExpress seller … 

          Reply

          hans

          • Jan 6, 2016 - 9:49 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            Ok so I can officially confirm for you and anyone else interested that while I’m having difficulty getting the HDFury Integral to work fully because it
            requires a firmware and hacked file from them to fully function I guess
            due to how companies have come down on them to block their product from
            being used, this splitter http://www.ebay.com/itm/171569398368 does indeed strip HDCP like a champ.

            Reply

            dominick_7

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 10:20 AM - trev Comment Link

              Hey Dominick_7!

              That’s great news and thank you for posting. If you don’t mind me asking, in what capacity are you using this splitter? Recording a gaming console, recording Bluray, recording streaming media? If any of these, what apps and devices are you using? The extra info will help in determining just what this splitter will do. I have some that partially strip the HDCP (meaning I can get it to work with some devices but not others) and some that do not strip HDCP at all.  Thank you!

              trev

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 10:47 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Hi Trev,…

              just chiming in …

              I use it for Game Recording (no HDCP stripping needed on a XBox One/360), screenshots (from my laptop) and … for my next Ambient Light project where screens are analyzed to control ambient LEDs behind my TV, so it will work all the time.

              For this I use an Elgato HD game capture, with the software that came with the Elgato.
              For my upcoming (if it works) project: Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and 300 LEDs.

              I did test the HDCP stripping with an Amazon Fire TV (streaming Amazon video, and Netflix video), a Roku box, movie playback on an XBox One (BluRay and streaming) and and XBox 360 (DVD and NetFlix streaming), and it worked in all cases.
              The splitter I used however, has been reported to fail with the newer production “batches”.

              Please note though that my purpose for the splitter is not to record movies, but it works!

              hans

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 12:32 PM - Brian Comment Link

              I ordered the splitter on ebay linked to here http://www.ebay/itm/171569398368 Now I’ve read that recent batches don’t strip HDCP. Is that correct for this device? If it is, I may b able to cancel my ebay purchase if I get an answer before it ships.

              Brian

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 12:40 AM - Jeffrey Comment Link

              That’s interesting.

              I’ve asked that seller and many other sellers if their splitter removes HDCP, and only 1 out of the 7 I sent question to (like this past weekend) have answered.

              Unusual since eBay sellers generally answer back in a day. Guess none of these (I only really asked sellers located in America) sellers are going to say it for fear of getting cracked down on.

              Jeffrey

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 4:41 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Trev I’m using it to record in 1080p60 from my Comcast HD DVR through my Hauppauge HD PVR 60. Hope to get the X1 DVRs hopefully that will give higher res video than 1080i. So it’s
              Comcast HD PVR->HDFury Integral to strip HDCP->Hauppauge HD PVR 60->HP Envy 17t. If I get a Blu Ray that does Netflix or the Xbox One I figure I’ll be able to record in 4K in the future. The Integral does all the way up to 4K splitting. Think this should strip everything. Just need to make sure you flash the firmware with the hacked file and change one setting on one of the buttons and it should work.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 4:45 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Jeffrey the other stripper I bought from eBay it works with Comcast HD DVR and the HDTV and my set up I posted. Can’t say if it will strip everything. I’d guess not, like I dont think it can do 4K.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 4:51 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Jeffrey Hmm. Some took days to get back to me, the one I bought it from didn’t know the other that did reply wasn’t in the US but confirmed theirs does do HDCP stripping.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 1:24 PM - trev Comment Link

              @Dominick_7   Thank you for posting your posting the extra info!  It truly helps knowing just exactly how others are achieving the HDCP override.

              trev

            • Jan 8, 2016 - 12:18 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Trev no problem, glad if it helps. Man this response system is confusing..

              dominick_7

            • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:38 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Bryan I hear you, true. 

              Not sure. The only recommended one I saw was the Integral_046022 and saw others complaining  why the others didnt get a hack. 

              Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?

              @Bill the tech said “Move EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, you should be fine then” and it worked.

              dominick_7

          • Jan 6, 2016 - 10:43 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            PS I just got the HD Fury working and it looks awesome, noticeably better picture quality than the other splitter. The other looks a bit washed out by comparison, but still workable/nice.

            Reply

            dominick_7

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 10:47 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome! 

              hans

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 12:41 PM - Brian Comment Link

              Which HD Fury model did you get?

              Brian

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 2:32 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Brian I got the Integral for $179 after doing the twitter and facebook share codes. Had to download the silabs driver v4, connect it to the notebook and flash firmware with an added hack for one of the bin files. I then connected it up to the Comc4ast DVR via the Hauppauge HD PVR 60, switched the EDID button to fixed and it all works awesomely.

              @Hans so it seems, so far :)

              dominick_7

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 4:02 PM - Brian Comment Link

              Thanks for you answer to my question, here’s another one.

              How did you get discount codes?

              Brian

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 4:58 PM - Brian Comment Link

              I just ordered an HDFury, the 4K one: Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz. I paid $170 US with the three discounts applied. I hope Warner Brothers and Intel don’t succeed in stopping their sale before mine is shipped.

              Brian

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 5:19 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Brian No problem, you’re welcome. Oh you just add it to the cart and the options come up on the bottom left. You should be able to see it unless maybe you have some script blocker on or something. You just click share for both facebook and twitter and the codes will pop up. Their warranty and return policy seems pretty nice too. The Integral is a bit pricey but it pays for itself after like 2-3 seasons of tv series you’re not supposed to record and won’t of course ;) Unless you have a TIVO and can do the same thing which makes no sense but yea.. haha.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 5:21 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Brian Sweet! What was the third code?? I heard they shut them down in so many ways. Are they/can they make them close down even if they’re in another country? Think they’re based in China.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 6, 2016 - 5:48 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              Not sure if it’s the same for everyones set up but you need the Silabs driver, the 046022 firmware from the product page and need to get the hack from the forum there: direct link from the tech I talked to because I had problems following the Chinese fonts: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1pJ1o64V and click the GREY download icon where its written 27KB. Install the drivers, connect the Integral to your computer and flash both firmware exes, power cycling after each one and it should work if there was no sound or a static noise before that. I think that’s the only firmware that has a hack to bypass the HDCP nonsense.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 11:26 AM - Brian Comment Link

              The discounts were for sharing/tweeting with Google+, Twitter, and Facebook. They may have added a 3rd discount after you ordered. 

              If you can, would you please upload the files necessary to modify the HD Fury and make them available. A free file storing service with download may be appropriate.

              Brian

            • Jan 7, 2016 - 1:28 PM - trev Comment Link

              Just ordered the HD Fury Integral!  Thank you for the heads up on its workings.  I’ve tried downloading the Firmware 0.46.0.22 but their website keeps sending me back to the latest update.  I’ve downloaded the “other” file. Can anyone post a direct link to the Firmware 0.46.0.22 update or upload the file to a free storage site? Many Thanks!!

              trev

            • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:42 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              New link for the HDFury files you need: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0.

              dominick_7

          • Jan 8, 2016 - 1:17 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            @Bryan ahh yea they added Google + after I ordered k.

            @Trev Sweet. K np here are the files you need the Silab driver, the firmware, the hack for the firmware and the manual. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cqwqwl8tjeyns9d/AAAPNAzUukjCXTEbTaDtGo27a?dl=0. Let me know what you guys think of the Integral and how it works.. Oh you need to switch the EDID button to the bottom set position then power cycle it after you flash both firmwares.

            Reply

            dominick_7

            • Jan 8, 2016 - 10:24 AM - trev Comment Link

              @DOMINICK_7  AWESOME!!!  Thank you for putting that up!  Yes this reply system gets a little confusing after it gets beyond a few replies, but Hans has done a great job keeping info up to date.  And thanks to everyone that is posting their findings!!  Keep up the great work!

              trev

            • Jan 8, 2016 - 4:00 PM - Brian Comment Link

              Hi Dominick_7,

              Even with the reduction, it costs $250 CDN plus whatever duty and taxes are levied. An expensive device but there’s nothing else like it.

              Thanks for making the essential files available for the HD Fury.

              Brian

            • Jan 8, 2016 - 10:02 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Trev Yvw :) Haha.sure is. True, ty everyone.

              @Brian $250 CDN..? Dang, sorry to hear that. I guess that’s what you get for living in Canada? Wasn’t aware of it being that different in terms of currency. Definitely. Yw glad if it helps. Whoever might be interested in HDCP stripping you may seriously want  to consider getting the Integral while its still available. The powers that be have been trying to shut them down.

              dominick_7

            • Jan 9, 2016 - 1:15 PM - Brian Comment Link

              Living in Canada has a currency value downside now but there are upsides too but even those are being devalued.

              Yes, anyone who wants to strip HDCP better buy the device now, at least in the USA, because there could be an injunction barring US sales.

              Brian

            • Jan 19, 2016 - 12:26 PM - Brian Comment Link

              There are newer versions of the firmware for the HD Fury Integral (Firmware 0.51.0.27 which is UpdateFpga_v27 and UpdateMCU_v51). 

              Is the older firmware (Firmware 0.46.0.22 which is UpdateFpga_v22 and UpdateMCU_v46) the only one which can be used to strip out HDCP or can it be done with the newest version?

              Brian

            • Jan 30, 2016 - 5:08 PM - bill Comment Link

              Thanks for the tips Dominick – I’m doing this to my integral. Wanted to clarify what you meant by switching EDID button to bottom setting, it has automix / custom or fixed. Which do you mean?

              bill

      • Jan 1, 2016 - 11:59 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        FYI: I have just sent an email to one of the sellers at AliExpress … I’ll post their reply once I hear from them. I’m sure others will be interested as well.

        And in case you wanted to know: I use my HDMI splitter/HDCP stripper for screenshot as well. 

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 5, 2016 - 2:26 PM - Jeffrey Comment Link

          Nothing back yet?

          I stopped my Amazon Prime membership, so if I buy the Sanoxy it may take a week to get it and test it out.

          Reply

          Jeffrey

        • Jan 6, 2016 - 8:32 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Nothing yet … and honestly, I don’t expect anything by now. Not sure why it takes that long to reply to a message … but it tells me a lot about the seller. Can’t trust that one, or at least expect slow communication when issues arise.

          Maybe I’ll order one or the other from AliExpress when I get back home, see if there is a deal to be made …

          Reply

          hans

          • Jan 7, 2016 - 12:32 AM - Jeffrey Comment Link

            I went ahead and ordered the Sanoxy on Tuesday.

            Tracking says I’ll receive Monday, but I’ve been surprised before and gotten it a few days earlier.

            I’ll let you know how my setup goes with:

            Comcast DVR > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV

            Blu Ray Player >HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV

            PS3 > HDMI Splitter > Elgato60 + TV

            Reply

            Jeffrey

    • Jan 7, 2016 - 9:53 PM - Jeffrey Comment Link

      Hey Hans,

      Making a new comment separately so someone can see this. As I anticipated, the Sanoxy Splitter came today instead of Monday.

      Give me a few hours to try it and I’ll let you know how it goes!

      Reply

      Jeffrey

      • Jan 7, 2016 - 11:42 PM - Jeffrey Comment Link

        First attempt, I can report the SANOXY splitter has indeed worked.

        First configuration:

        2008 Samsung Blu-Ray Player Output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter Input >>>SANOXY Output 1 >>> Elgato60 HD to MacBook Pro + HDTV

        Success, Output 2 not used.

        I will go try my Comcast DVR (it’s an older one from ’09 or ’10 I believe) next.

        Reply

        Jeffrey

      • Jan 7, 2016 - 11:50 PM - Jeffrey Comment Link

        Second Attempt, SANOXY Splitter has indeed worked with my Comcast DVR.

        Comcast DVR HDMI Output >> SANOXY Splitter >> Splitter Output 1 >> Elgato60HD >> MacBook Pro

        Quality looks amazing on my laptop as well.

        I forgot I let my brother borrow my PS3, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

        So Hans you can update your article now to include the SANOXY® HDMI 1×2 3D splitter v1.3 HDCP 2 ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-ray.

        Works 100% for me. Very satisfied!

        Reply

        Jeffrey

        • Jan 8, 2016 - 2:56 PM - Jerome Comment Link

          Thanks for the information Jeffrey. Two questions: Does your unit look like the first picture in the Amazon display which has the blue and white lettering or the one with only the white lettering in the second and other pictures? Also, which vendor did you order from as there are more than a few listed on Amazon? Thanks again!

          Reply

          Jerome

      • Jan 8, 2016 - 3:37 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Jeffrey! 

        Awesome that you’ve found another splitter! I’ve updated the article!

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 11, 2016 - 3:27 PM - Jerome Comment Link

          I don’t know if the following will be of help regarding the HDCP issues, but here is my recent experience with a splitter which looks similar to others mentioned in various posts.

          Although I’m not sure what Jeffrey’s splitter looks like, the one that I ordered recently on ebay looks like the first picture on Amazon’s description for the Sanoxy model with the blue and white print as opposed to the other pictures with the white lettering only. Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181785675612 for the one that I ordered. While the description says HDMI 1.3, the box and directions say 1.4 but for my problem it works. I cannot say for sure if it removes HDCP as I do not have a Playstation or capture card or similar devices which are mentioned in many articles on various sites. I also do not have a DVR but rather a Panasonic DVD Recorder.

          I have DirecTV and some time last year, a change was made which caused this message to appear: “Your TV does not support this program’s content protection. Replacing
          the TV’s HDMI cable with component cables will allow you to view the
          program.” This is only when you have both the HDMI and component cable connection (AV Out) utilized at the same time. The message only appears on the component output not the HDMI. My component output goes into an Atlona Comp500 converter which outputs an S-Video signal for the Panasonic DVD recorder. The HDMI goes into a Sony TV about six years old. Regular SD channels are not affected, only HD. I had read somewhere that using a splitter might work for this problem and it did. I took the DirecTV HDMI output into the splitter input, the DirecTV component output into the Atlona, then the HDMI 1 output into the television and the error message was gone when viewing from the Panasonic DVD recorder. Switching channels while watching directly from the television or through the DVD recorder did not make a difference. I have my DirecTV resolution set as native so that the picture is shown in its regular format as opposed to an upscaled one. There is a slight delay here sometimes and others have mentioned that this could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. I did power on the splitter first before turning on the television and satellite box. The HDMI 2 output was not used.

          I also tried using the splitter with the same hookup above but also utilizing the HDMI 2 output with an Insignia television about four years old to see if the signal would appear on all three outputs and it did. No error messages appeared. Picture quality through the HDMI splitter looked fine with no apparent difference as compared to a direct connection. Of course, the output from the Atlona box is SD converted from an HD component signal but I use it to record from time to time and for my purposes, it is adequate. The recorder works better when recording from HD or SD broadcast (over the air) stations since it does its own conversion and has its own tuner so the picture looks sharper and more accurate than the Atlona which is a bit softer and tends to increase colors a bit. S-Video is the best connection for the DVD recorder as the composite one looks a tad softer if used.

          Hope this helps someone with a similar situation.

          Reply

          Jerome

    • Jan 11, 2016 - 12:30 PM - trev Comment Link

      So last week after reading some of the posts about the HD Fury Integral, I started hunted one down. They appear to be removed from Amazon now.  Found one on Craigslist for $300 in San Francisco.  Went to the HD Fury website and they had them listed as IN STOCK, so I placed the order on Jan 6th.  My Paypal account has been processed the $179 but I have received no shipping info.  Tried contacting them but no word yet.  Hoping I’m not out $179.

      If you are at all thinking about buying one, be careful at this point in time!

      Reply

      trev

      • Jan 11, 2016 - 1:06 PM - Brian Comment Link

        If Paypal purchased shouldn’t there be a full refund if it isn’t delivered?

        Reply

        Brian

        • Jan 11, 2016 - 1:11 PM - trev Comment Link

          I would like to think so, but I’m thinking I’d really like to have the Integral instead. 

          Reply

          trev

    • Jan 12, 2016 - 4:54 AM - ahmed Comment Link

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw-ezjGag9w

      this  recorder audio 5.1 ????

      Reply

      ahmed

      • Jan 12, 2016 - 9:29 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Ahmed,

        as far as I understand from Trev: Currently the Cloner does not recorder 5.1 audio, and records it in stereo (Trev? Am I saying that right?).
        A future firmware update might address this issue, but that probably has to be addressed with the manufacturer so they would actually release a proper firmware to support 5.1.

        Reply

        hans

      • Jan 12, 2016 - 2:48 PM - trev Comment Link

        @Ahmed,  No this recorder does NOT record in 5.1, only stereo audio. But for my needs, that wasn’t necessary. It is a great recorder and I just ordered another one last night. The Cloner Alliance responded to my inquiry about 5.1 any upcoming firmware updates and gave no indication that it would be happening. Still, as a stand-alone recording device this one is by far the best that I have used. I have NOT needed any splitter to be able to record the HDMI signal from my AppleTV. Hope this helps.

        Reply

        trev

        • Jan 14, 2017 - 1:49 AM - Ron Grimm Comment Link

          Hi..

          I was given an HDML Cloner Box Pro for Christmas…I’ve attempted to record various projects..it DOES record from any source…HOWEVER..

          While it does record..and it says that it’s recording in 1080p….it’s actually recording only in  (less than standard) 420p..

          I’ve tried various methods..while the box INDICATES that it IS recording in 1080p.. in reality, it only records in 420p.

          How do I know this?

          First, from viewing the recorded file.. yeah.. that’s NOT high definition at all.

          Secondly, watch the file on the MEDIA PLAYER CLASSIC video software on your computer.. while the file is playing..press “PLAY”..then scroll down the menu there..then press “VIDEO STREAM”.

          I recorded an episode of GAME OF THRONES …the video looks great; in full  1080p, high definition, WHILE I’m recording it directly from HBO On Demand…

          HOWEVER.. the video stream indicated this =  “video handler [Eng] H264 constrained baseline L4.0  yuv 420p, 1920 x 1080  15854 kb/s (english) ” 

          Do you see that  “yuv 420P”.. yup.. it SHOULD be recording in 1080p..but it isn’t. 

          I dunno what I’m doing wrong….but I can’t get it to record in any higher format than 420p..very soft focus and blurry.  

          I’ve written to Cloner-Alliance about this problem..hopefully; they will have an answer.

           

          Reply

          Ron Grimm

          • Jan 14, 2017 - 5:11 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Thanks Ron for the heads up! 

            I have no experience with the HDMI Cloner Box – could it be related to the media you’re using to store the recording on? (ie. a slow USB stick or memory card). Trev however (see his comments here) has been playing with one of those – maybe he can comment on this and help you in the right direction?

            Reply

            hans

          • Jan 14, 2017 - 5:57 PM - Trev Comment Link

            Hello Ron!

            That is odd and you should contact HDMI ClonerBox about it. More than likely they will swap it out. I’ve had issue with one of the 3 that I have, where it just stopped recording no matter what i did, and they sent me a new one. I just finished a recording, opened it in both Quicktime and VLC. Here are links showing the item properties from both apps:

            Quicktime – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joVTUxODVUWFhMQjA

            VLC – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jaEXcVp3joSi1tcmljREN2Nkk

            I’ve never been able to choose any other settings than 720p and 1080p on the HDMI ClonerBox, so hopefully swapping out for another box will solve your issue.

            Reply

            Trev

            • Jan 15, 2017 - 12:04 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Thanks Trev for chiming in – it’s much appreciated! 

              hans

    • Jan 12, 2016 - 3:09 PM - Bob Comment Link

      I bought the ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D – $24 at Amazon and received it today (1/12/2016) It does NOT bypass the HDCP! I still have the same problem.

      Reply

      Bob

      • Jan 13, 2016 - 5:21 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Bob!

        Thank you for reporting this ….

        First off, we already listed the ViewHD quite a while ago as “confirmed, but recent models fail!!!”. 

        Having said that … in the Dutch version of this article a user observed that using different HDMI cables might resolve the issue. In his case he used a shorter HDMI cable, but I’m starting to wonder if it has to do with the quality and certification (HDMI version) of the cable(s) used.

        Another observation is that all HDMI cables should be connected before powering the HDMI splitter.

        And finally, what might help as well, is having a HDCP compliant device on the first HDMI output of the splitter (for example your TV).

        Please let us know if any of these 3 (or all of them) resolve the issue, I’ll be keeping y fingers crossed. 

        Reply

        hans

        • Nov 10, 2016 - 5:37 PM - Charles Comment Link

          I’ve had a similar experience with the View HD 2 port for the Xfinity X1 cable box.  Does anyone know what will strip HDCP from X1?  Thanks.

          Reply

          Charles

        • Nov 11, 2016 - 7:20 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Funny thing is that I just moved and am stuck with Xfinity as my cable provider.
          I just needed Internet but it came with free basic channels for TV as well.

          The guy from Comcast delivered a “new” box (not the X1) which didn’t even have HDMI. When looking at the bottom of the box it said “Manufactured May 2009” … 2009!!!! So I asked him for a HDMI box, which he could deliver (the X1) for $69.99/mo … so I told him to go put the X1 where the sun doesn’t shine … grrr…. 

          So bottom line; I can’t test my splitter with the X1, unless someone knows a neat trick to get an X1 without paying $69.99/mo. 

          Reply

          hans

          • Nov 11, 2016 - 9:55 AM - Michael Comment Link

            Hans, are you meaning to say that you had no choice with the package from your provider, or the bundling of services?  I find that bizarre.  It is contrary to proper business practices when trying to serve the customer’s needs.  (Of course greed often trumps customer needs.)

            I have never heard of that.  There is always a basic package in any service category.  Well, at least here in the USA.

            Is there a monopoly where you are?  Does the government allow monopolies?

            Reply

            Michael

            • Nov 14, 2016 - 10:20 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Hi Michael,

              I’m actually in the US … Houston.
              I could choose plenty $$$ packages, but I don’t really need TV, just the basic channels would be sufficient – which comes with my Internet at no extra charge. What baffled me is that they assumed I’d have a TV with a build in tuner (which I do not). Everything is connected through HDMI these days, but their box forces me to use either coax or composite (not component or HDMI). Not to mention that the box is ancient (2009) and only shows video in 4:3 format (horrible on a modern TV). 

              I’m already looking into other options – I’m definitely not going to recommend ComCast to anyone … their Internet is fine though, even though they limit your download to 1Tb/mo (which is probably enough) – let’s see what NetFlix and Amazon chew away on a monthly basis  … 

              hans

    • Jan 15, 2016 - 7:18 AM - Greg Kneeland Comment Link

      I have a question specific on my setup and appreciate any help.  I was given a Gateway 42″ Plasma (Model # P42M203).   It unfortunately, only has a DVI-D input which is NOT HDCP compliant (no HDMI).  I am trying to connect a Roku to this TV but am getting a flickering screen when using the Sanoxy splitter listed above. My setup is as follows:

      Roku 3 HDMI output >> SANOXY Splitter (found here)>>> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: black flickering screen

      Roku 3 HDMI output >> HDMI to DVI Cable (found here)>>>Gateway Plasma. –Result: Menu loads fine, streamed content displays HDCP error.  

      Does anyone know an appropriate way to go from HDMI to a “non-HDCP” DVI-D port?  I plan to run audio separately using the 3.5mm output on the remote. I’m not trying to record content, etc. I just want to use this display in a workshop and don’t want to buy another TV. 

      Much appreciated!!

      Reply

      Greg Kneeland

      • Jan 16, 2016 - 5:37 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Greg,

        now this is exactly one of those applications why I posted this article! 

        First thing I’d try is switching your Roku to 720p (if possible), and test it with a regular HDMI capable TV if you have access to one. Or even better, a HDMI game recording device, just to test is HDCP is indeed removed.

        Second thing I’d try is different HDMI cables. In the Dutch version of this article, one user discovered that one of his HDMI cables failed, where as an other one (not sure if that;s relevant, but it was a shorted HDMI cable) worked just fine.

        These would be my first 2 steps … of course not having a HDMI recording device to test makes it pretty hard to test.

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 16, 2016 - 8:33 AM - Greg Comment Link

          Thanks for the advice.  I switched the Roku to 720p (which I totally didn’t even think about) and tested it on a newer plasma w/HDMI.  It worked as it should.   Then I took it back out to the Gateway plasma and it did work, but with a really choppy picture and the sound had constant static on both menu screen and when streaming Netflix.   I tried multiple HDMI cables between the Roku and splitter.  I also tried  multiple HDMI to DVI cables between the splitter and TV and the result was the same.   My initial thought on the root of the problem are:

          1) The splitter is faulty – I then tried the splitter on a couple other TV’s and it worked normally via HDMI to HDMI input.  

          2) You cannot run an HDMI to DVI cable from the spiltter 

          I do know the DVI input does work on the TV as I have been successful in getting a computer working on it normally.  

          Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?

          I am stumped!

          Reply

          Greg

          • Jan 16, 2016 - 8:38 AM - Greg Comment Link

            “Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP?”

            Sorry, I meant:  “Do you think it’s a faulty splitter or do you think there is no way to go from HDMI source to non-compliant HDCP  DVI?”

            Reply

            Greg

            • Jan 16, 2016 - 11:13 AM - Zach Comment Link

              Hey there so with the Dvi to hdmi the cable ur where using I had a similar problem I had a cable vga to component and it work from the computers vga port to a regular tv component but then I plugged the vga  into a monitor and tryed to plug my PS3 into the vga adapter into a monitor but no luck I believe it is cause the computer powers and drives the adapter where when I tryed the adapter and the PS3 into a monitor no luck I will see if I can find u one that might work hopefully   I am hoping i did not confuse you if I did message me and I will see if I can explain it better 

              Zach

          • Jan 16, 2016 - 11:02 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            You might be right about the HDMI->DVI “conversion”, not to mention the difference between DVI-I and DVI-D … I suspect that most “converters” actually only do HDMI->DVI-D (ie. only digital signal). I’m not sure if you TV takes DVI-D … or just the analog signal …?

            Reply

            hans

            • Jan 16, 2016 - 11:22 AM - Zach Comment Link

              I believe something like this will work and support 1080p and it is a powered unit which will actually convert the signal not just wire one plug to another cause one signal is digital and one is analog so this adapter it should convert the signal from digital to analog to the dvi port on your tv but look into this one hopefully what I said makes sense here’s the link 

              http://m.ebay.ca/itm/271888278622

              Zach

            • Jan 16, 2016 - 1:47 PM - Greg Comment Link

              Zach/Hans,

              Well I figured it out!!  Luckily I had initially purchased an HDMI to DVI converter (not the HDMI to DVI cable) when I first got the TV. I had to run the setup listed here:

              Roku>>HDMI splitter  (to strip HDCP)>>HDMI to DVI converter>> Gateway TV.  

              I don’t think I would have figured it out if I didn’t get help here. Thanks guys we are up and running!!

              Greg

            • Jan 17, 2016 - 5:12 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome! 

              hans

      • Jan 16, 2016 - 2:51 PM - Zach Comment Link

        Glad to hear anytime have fun with it:p

        Reply

        Zach

      • Jan 16, 2016 - 3:00 PM - Zach Comment Link

        If you don’t mind me asking is the converter the one you have plug into the wall to power it kind of like the one I linked just curious :) thanks

        Reply

        Zach

        • Jan 17, 2016 - 7:13 AM - Greg Comment Link

          Thanks again for the help. I used the set up listed below:

          Roku 3 HDMI output >>> SANOXY HD Splitter(HDCP Stripper) Input (Found here)>>>SANOXY HDMI Output 1 >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter HDMI input (Found here) >>> Revesun HDMI to DVI Converter DVI output >>>Gateway TV DVI input

          The only issue I found with the Revesun HDMI to DVI converter is that it is supposed to convert digital audio to analog.  The analog audio outputs on the unit supply NO sound in my scenario.   The Roku 3 remote has a 3.5mm audio output, so I just hook that to my stereo receiver instead.  I am not sure if running the HDCP stripper outputs a signal that cannot have audio/video separated but I will run some tests.  I’m also going to see if I can’t have another unit sent out and hopefully it will correct the problem.  

          Reply

          Greg

    • Jan 15, 2016 - 6:59 PM - Zach Comment Link

      Hey everyone I bought the veiwhd this is the link ViewHD 2 Port 1×2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | VHD-1X2MN3D

      I received it I tested it on my ps4 but before anyone says anything I turned the hdcp ON my ps4 and recorded Netflix which you can not do with hdcp OFF. I use the Algato hd60 to record and I have tested the hd60 without the veiwhd hooked up to the ps4 and hdcp ON and the hd60 recording software says it can’t record cause hdcp is ON but when I plug the veiwhd in and try it work perfectly strips the hdcp I will keep this update if I try on different devices feel free to ask question. So in my case the veiwhd works and strips the hdcp  

      Reply

      Zach

      • Jan 16, 2016 - 5:14 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Zach!

        Thanks for posting your findings. I had the same experience with the ViewHD/Elgato. 

        For those where the ViewHD fails:
        In a post at the Dutch version of the article, one of the users actually noticed that this seems to depend on the HDMI cables used. In my case it worked right away, but in his case it did not. When he swapped his HDMI cable for different ones, it suddenly worked. He was guessing it had to do with cable length, but I suspect it has to do with the quality or HDMI version the cable was made for. So it’s worth trying different HDMI cables (between video source and splitter).

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 16, 2016 - 10:56 AM - Zach Comment Link

          Ya I agree it could be the cable but I will admit that one of the cables I am using in my setup is a 3ft HDMI  that I bought at dollarama which is a dollar store in Ottawa Canada so for anyone that is looking for a cable to use with this setup it should work and the best part it only cost 3.50$ but it is just really short but I do believe it could do with the version of Hdmi that is why I believe the dollar store one works because it works with older versions but I could be totally wrong just letting u guys know my experience and question feel free to ask and thanks Hans I never though it could be the HDMI cable but now that u mention it I can see that happening 

          Reply

          Zach

        • Jan 16, 2016 - 11:10 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          I just updated your link, for some reason Amazon gave me an error message when I tried opening the link you originally posted.

          Reply

          hans

          • Jan 16, 2016 - 11:27 AM - Zach Comment Link

            Thanks very much sorry for that 

            Reply

            Zach

          • Jan 17, 2016 - 5:13 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            No problem …. I just wanted to double check if it was the same ViewHD I have … 

            Reply

            hans

    • Jan 18, 2016 - 6:08 PM - Brian Comment Link

      Today, I received the Integral 4K60/600MHz HDMI device. The packaging was a bit worse-for-wear but the device is ok, no dents, scratches, etc. It didn’t take long to be delivered. It cost me $250 CDN for the Integral and $22 CDN duty/taxes/handling/collection charges.

      Is there anything necessary to do to the Integral to strip out HDCP with it such as: //www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/#comment-164225

      Reply

      Brian

      • Jan 19, 2016 - 4:17 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Brian,

        by my knowledge, this would be HDMI 1.4, and I have not seen HDMI splitters that support this AND strip HDCP … unless you’re having a 1080p source, which still might work. 

        Reply

        hans

      • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:48 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        @Brian You need the hacked firmware files I posted below plus the directions I posted with them. I had to repost the dropbox link because I reorganized them in a different folder.

        Reply

        dominick_7

    • Jan 23, 2016 - 12:02 PM - Brian Comment Link

      I received an Integral HD Fury a few days ago and have just got around to using it. I “updated” the firmware files and that supposedly was successful but I haven’t been able to get it to work with my DVI input monitor. The setup is: Laptop HDMI output –> Integral HD Fury –> HDMI cable with HDMI to DVI converter –> Computer monitor DVI input. I ran the Integral GUI on my computer but I am unable to determine what the settings should be to enable the DVI input computer monitor to work. Does anyone know how?

      Reply

      Brian

      • Jan 23, 2016 - 12:23 PM - trev Comment Link

        Hey Brian – From all that I have read about the Integral, I think you are going to have to instal the hacked firmware 046022, which is a few versions back from the current firmware that it sounds like you have installed. Someone else posted the files in one of the other replies, so look thru them. Due to carrier issues, mine has not arrived yet so I can not help much, but I think you are still dealing with an HDCP issue thru the DVI, therefore installing the hacked software your issue should be fixed. Someone else may have a better idea, but I hope this helps.

        Reply

        trev

        • Jan 23, 2016 - 12:52 PM - Brian Comment Link

          I installed the hacked firmware 046022, twice, just to be certain that it “took”. I ran the Integral GUI software and it appears to recognize the Integral HD Fury but it doesn’t show the firmware version number.

          Does anyone know why? I hope I didn’t get a lemon.

          Reply

          Brian

        • Jan 23, 2016 - 2:38 PM - Brian Comment Link

          I reinstalled the latest firmware which INTEGRAL GUI v1.8 works with. I reinstalled the hacked firmware and the INTEGRAL GUI v1.6 works with it showing the firmware version 0.46.0.22 and the source info Sony, 1920x1080p60 HDMI; Output: none; Color Space: YCbCr 4:4:4, ITU-R BT.709

          Still nothing appearing on the DVI input computer display.

          Reply

          Brian

      • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:44 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        You need the hacked firmware: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0

        Then you need to switch the EDID button to to fixed and restart the source by unplugging the USB power source and replugging it in. 

        Reply

        dominick_7

      • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:46 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        @Brian you’ll need the firmware files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0ju6jai39hko240/AAA8mIIvypH-nEzAwB8EuJkna?dl=0 then you’ll need to move the EDID slide switch to fixed and restart the source, it should work then. If that doesn’t work then tech support should be able to help you. Took me a while to reply because I got locked out somehow. 

        Reply

        dominick_7

    • Jan 26, 2016 - 5:51 PM - trev Comment Link

      UPDATE: HD Cloner Box from Cloner Alliance.

      After having the HD C-B hooked directly up to my AppleTV, AppleTV to the HDMI input on the TV, to record Netflix streaming, I decided it was time to hook things back up thru my Onky Receiver (AppleTV to HDMI 1 input on Onkyo Receiver, Blu-Ray to HDMI 2 input on the Onkyo.  Onkyo output 1 into C-B, C-B out to TV). No matter what I did in this set up, I could not get the C-B to record nor pass a solid signal thru to the TV. I then tried out how I had originally had success in recording on the Blackmagic H264 recorder (Onkyo HDMI output 1 to the TV, HDMI output 2 to the C-B).  I also hooked up the output of the C-B into the 2nd HDMI input on the TV.  As I write this, I am in the process of recording a BluRay to the C-B.  All seems to be working fine and I will try the AppleTV thru this setup next.

      So yes, this is a great little standalone recorder that does overcome HDCP in 99% of the configurations I have tried.

      Reply

      trev

      • Jan 26, 2016 - 5:59 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Trev for getting back with this info … although I’m a little confused haha …
        So the Onkyo seems to be functioning as a stripper as well? Just only when a valid HDCP device is connected to HDMI out 1 …?
        (sorrry it’s late here haha) 

        Reply

        hans

    • Jan 31, 2016 - 11:33 PM - SimKard Comment Link

      Hello to all,

      I’m actually looking at some conversion for an Intel Compute Stick that I would like to use as a mediacenter in my car.

      The fact is I bought the (in)famous HDMI2AV adapter from eBay, but when I try it on my TV, nothing shows on screen (I tried different resolution but nothing helps).

      So basically, I think about the fact that this HDMI2AV adapter is not compliant with HDCP (I get a black screen anyway with any resolution).

      If someone knows/can tell me how to achieve this, it would be very nice.

      Thanks.

      Reply

      SimKard

      • Feb 1, 2016 - 3:56 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi SimKard,

        First thing I’d try is using the HDMI output of another device, for example a laptop (just displaying the desktop of Windows for example) or a media player box (like tha Amazon Fire TV without playing any content). Just to make sure the HDMI2AV works … that’s definitely the first thing I’d test.
        I would not think the HDMI output of your Intel Compute Stick had HDCP, unless you’re playing particular content like NetFlix etc.

        According to this forum thread, the stick might experience HDMI detection/handshake issue as well. Not sure if that’s the case in your situation.

        If HDCP proves to be an issue, well, then you’re stuck with one or the other HDCP stripper, like some of the HDMI splitters mentioned in this article. Is a hit and miss at times to see if one of these splitters will work though. The “good” news is that these strippers are relatively small, roughly the size of a package of cigarettes, and you should be able to power it in the car (see this comment above). 
        Before buying one, make sure the HDMI2Av actually works, and read the posts here to see the findings of others.

        I wouldn’t mind testing one of these sticks, but unfortunately, I do not have one … 

        Reply

        hans

        • Aug 12, 2016 - 4:07 PM - Justin Goldberg - Author: Comment Link

          Also how does Google get around with violating the DMCA with its Chromecast audio devices with analog outputs?

          I just want to use a Chromecast 1 device on my tv. And roku is OK but the YouTube roku app is so unreliable.

          Reply

          Justin Goldberg

      • Aug 12, 2016 - 3:58 PM - Justin Goldberg - Author: Comment Link

        Here’s a conversion with an ebay seller about the white hdmi2av:

         Me:

        Does this decrypt HDCP 1.x content? I purchased a standalone cable with HDMI in and component with rca audio out, which does not with a Chromecast.

        Seller:

        I don’t believe it decrypts HDCP. It just converts HDMI to RCA. We have noticed issues recently with this product working with newer HDMI devices though.

        Reply

        Justin Goldberg

        • Aug 13, 2016 - 3:43 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi Justin,

          I think that most sellers (on western world marketplaces) will not easily state or admit that their hardware removes HDCP.
          A lot of HDMI->RCA converters however, do not strip HDCP – which is unfortunate for situation you’re looking at. This is actually the same situation I started out with as well. I needed HDMI -> RCA and none of these converters work when HDCP is involved, which is unfortunate. 

          Since I started out with a project to create Ambilight for all my video sources, I needed a HDMI splitter anyway (to catch all the video that goes from my Home Theatre system to my TV). That’s when I found out that certain cheap HDMI splitters actually strip HDCP.

          So the setup will become:

          video source -> HDMI Splitter -> TV
          And the second output of the HDMI Splitter -> HDMI-to-RCA converter -> analog video grabber -> AmbiLight device

          As for your ChromeCast question; I’m not sure what you mean with the analog Audio question.
          I’d assume that connecting a ChromeCast to the HDMI-splitter, and one output of the HDMI splitter to any HDMI->RCA device would work.

          Reply

          hans

    • Feb 3, 2016 - 12:09 PM - Brian Comment Link

      This will be of interest. Use the bin file here with firmware version 0.51.0.27 to “solve” HDCP problems. http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin

      I used it with the following settings to enable an non-compliant computer monitor to display HDCP content from my laptop.

      edid automix mode

      audio auto [bt]

      hdcp 1.4

      Post your results please.

      Reply

      Brian

      • Feb 3, 2016 - 4:23 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        @Bryan you try it? 

        Reply

        dominick_7

        • Feb 4, 2016 - 4:35 AM - Brian Comment Link

          I tried it and it worked to enable viewing HDCP protected content on a computer monitor which  wouldn’t show it previously.

          Reply

          Brian

          • Feb 4, 2016 - 8:10 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

            Sweet so I guess I’ll add that the next time I update the firmware. Thanks.

            Reply

            dominick_7

            • Feb 5, 2016 - 9:50 AM - Brian Comment Link

              You can update the firmware now. I know the new .bin file ‘fixes’ the HDCP problem because the computer monitor doesn’t comply with HDCP and won’t display an HDCP protected HDMI signal. The new firmware has features and fixes that previous versions don’t have and you can always revert back to the firmware you are now using. Trust me, it works.

              Brian

            • Feb 5, 2016 - 9:51 AM - Brian Comment Link

              Also, I don’t know how long the new .bin file will be available, so download it now.

              Brian

            • Feb 6, 2016 - 3:06 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Maybe this is helpful, or not, but I downloaded the bin file and made it available here for download.
              It’s Integral HD Fury firmware version 0.51.0.27 from this link http://www.filedropper.com/integralmcu051bin.
              It’s only 30 Kb in size so I have no idea if this is correct (please confirm).

              The link for download from Tweaking4All is: INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin.zip

              If anyone could provide the full specs (ie. Device info and/or missing files) then I’d be more than happy to post them here as well … 
              Feel free to let me know if this is not the right file, or if anything else is missing, since I do not own the Integral HD Fury.

              hans

            • Feb 10, 2016 - 5:58 AM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Brian definitely downloaded it as soon as you mentioned it, will use it for the updated firmware when I get a chance ty. Makes me curious to know what sort of changes were made as far as menu options. 

              dominick_7

            • Feb 10, 2016 - 1:23 PM - Brian Comment Link

              Install the firmware and you’ll see the changes.

              Brian

            • Apr 13, 2016 - 1:26 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

              @Hans do I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware? Also is that the best one currently? Thanks.

              Dominick

              dominick_7

            • Apr 13, 2016 - 3:09 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              As far as I understand, from Brian (please correct me if I’m wrong), the posted firmware is the one you need – I don’t think you need to “hack” it. Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral to confirm this … 

              hans

        • Apr 13, 2016 - 1:28 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

          @Hans wanted to add that I got a Tivo through my Integral, to Hauppauge HD PVR 60 then to my HP Envy 17t but it isnt displaying right. Want to rule out the Integral hence the question about if I need a hack file for the INTEGRAL_MCU0.51.bin firmware file. Thanks.

          Reply

          dominick_7

          • Apr 13, 2016 - 3:07 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Hi Dominick_7!

            Unfortunately, I do not own an Integral. I just made the file from Brian available directly from Tweaking4All. 
            Maybe Brian is the better person to answer this question … or one of the other Integral users?

            Reply

            hans

    • Feb 3, 2016 - 7:23 PM - Tim Comment Link

      I just wanted to comment.  Thanks to this website I bought the SANOXY HDMI 1by2 3D Splitter v1.3 HDCP 2ports switcher 3 4 5 8 PS3 DVD BluRay.  There is a link to it on this website.  It is the top entry of the bullet list of possible hdcp strippers.  This list is a little ways above the comment section.

      I have an old Sony HDTV with one HDMI input.  I can’t watch any premium DISH TV programs because of the hdcp error screen.  With my tv if you navigate into the menu you can eventually get to a page that has a field named: HDCP.  On my tv it always says HDCP:No .  I just hooked up the Sanoxy hdmi splitter and now the field says HDCP:YES .   My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stipper. 

      I bought another hdmi splitter off of ebay and I should get it next week.  In the title of the listing it says that it is a hdcp stripper.  I emailed the seller and asked him if it was a hdcp stripper.  He emailed me back and said it can strip hdcp.  If it works I’ll post it here in the comment section.

      Thanks,

      Tim

      Reply

      Tim

      • Feb 4, 2016 - 4:58 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Tim for reporting!

        I had no idea that a TV could report this … Did you mean when the splitter is used it says “HDCP: NO”, versus when the splitter is not used where it says “HDCP: YES”?

        The link Tim is talking about: Sanoxy HDMI at Amazon.

        Reply

        hans

    • Feb 4, 2016 - 2:05 PM - Tim Comment Link

      Hans,

      In yesterdays comment I mistakenly said that I navigated into my Sony TV menu to a page with a field labeled HDCP: NO or HDCP: Yes.  It was actually my DISH TV menu I went into.  For those of you with DISH TV here is the path:  menu – system setup – installation – system info – next.  The page is titled System Info Two .  Evidently, HDCP:No means you can’t watch hdcp protected programming and HDCP:Yes means you can. 

      The HDCP field of my DISH TV System Info Two page has always said HDCP:No.  I can’t watch premium DISH programing because of the hdcp error screen.

      Yesterday, when I hooked up my new Sanoxy HDMI splitter the field switched to HDCP:Yes. 

      About a week and a half ago DISH offered me free Epix for a month.  It wouldn’t work because of the hdcp error screen.  Today I called DISH and resubscribed to Epix.  It works perfectly with the Sanoxy HDMI splitter.  The HDCP field of the DISH TV System Info Two page says:  HDCP:Yes.  My Sanoxy hdmi splitter works as a hdcp stripper.

      Reply

      Tim

      • Feb 5, 2016 - 4:18 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Tim for the clarification – I was a little confused the other day haha.
        Awesome, yet another valid reason to get a HDCP stripper … isn’t it idiotic that companies will “push” the consumer to buy new electronics just because they decided to add some new? Oh well, I’m very glad to hear this worked for you! Awesome! 

        Reply

        hans

    • Feb 5, 2016 - 8:17 AM - Chris Comment Link

      I’m using HDfury devices never had any problem since many years now. They are expensive, but work perfectly well and picture quality is outstanding.

      Reply

      Chris

    • Feb 9, 2016 - 6:28 PM - summerboy Comment Link

      this one Portta 2 Port 1×2 Hdmi Splitter V 1.3b Compatible c1.4 3D 1080p Swither 5 8 PS3 XBOX360 DVD Blu-Ray and this one ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto  work ! and Sewell Direct SW-23500 HDMI Splitter fail !

      Reply

      summerboy

      • Feb 10, 2016 - 3:05 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Awesome – Thanks SummerBoy for sharing your findings! 

        Do you happen to have links to these HDMI splitters?

        Reply

        hans

    • Feb 9, 2016 - 9:30 PM - Tim Comment Link

      Just a follow up.  Last week I commented on the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter .  It works! I’m able to watch Epix which I purchased from Dish TV.  Without the hdmi splitter I get the hdcp error screen.

      I also commented that I bought another hdmi splitter from an ebay seller.  It arrived yesterday.  I just hooked it up.  It works too!  Here is the link:  ebay hdmi splitter/hdcp stripper  .   The seller states in the title that it is a hdcp stripper.  I emailed him before I bought it and he confirmed the same.  The original price was $12.48.  About a week ago it went up to $14.48.  Now it is $16.48.

      For the money the Sanoxy HDMI Splitter is a better deal at $15.90.  It is a much better construction with a steal case and a heavy duty power cord.  The hdmi splitter I bought off ebay is a cheap plastic thing with a cheap power cord.  Interestingly, the Sanoxy hdmi splitter pictured on the Amazon website looks like the hdmi splitter I purchased from the ebay seller.  The actual Sanoxy hdmi splitter I received in the mail looks totally different and it has a much more solid construction.

      I hope this is helpful for someone!

      Reply

      Tim

      • Feb 10, 2016 - 2:36 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        That’s good news Tim!
        Thanks for taking the time to post your findings – the more folks post their findings, the better …

        I have the suspicion that only a very few splitters are made, just relabeled a lot.
        The Sanoxy looks exactly like my ViewHD (older, working model). 

        Reply

        hans

        • Feb 10, 2016 - 12:17 PM - Brian Comment Link

          I bought two ViewHD splitters that look exactly the same as the Saxony from a different source and they don’t strip HDCP. I opened one and compared it to the circuit board of one in a review that does strip HDCP. The circuit boards are identical, even the markings on it, but it doesn’t strip HDCP.  I looked up the chips used on the board and they are identical too but there must be something that changed in the firmware settings used on the HDMI chip that deals with HDCP. I searched for the data sheets for that chip but only found product briefs, no information about programming the chip, it is proprietary information which a non-disclosure agreement is required for. 

          The 3 chips on the board are:

          STM8S003F3

          Sil9187BCNU HDMI processor (This is the chip which deals with HDCP)

          https://www.semiconductorstor.com/pdf/newsite/SiliconImage/Sil9187_DB.pdf

          PI3HDMI412ADZBE

          Reply

          Brian

      • Feb 10, 2016 - 11:20 AM - Brian Comment Link

        $30 U.S. for shipping to Canada makes it prohibitively expensive from that source.

        Reply

        Brian

    • Feb 26, 2016 - 10:26 PM - CBM Racing - Author: Comment Link

      CONFIRMED 02/26/2016 “VIEW HD MINI” STRIPS HDCP INSTANTLY!!!

      I bought this little guy from Amazon with a hope and a prayer that it would solve all of my HDCP issues and Hallelujah it was a miracle from the Video Capturing Gods!!!! This little box came in today and the HDCP Demons left with the Priest or maybe it was the UPS guy lol. I tested on Direct TV’s Gennie Mini with my Elgato for about 7 Hours. 4 straight on Fox Sports 1 and 3 on and off on multiple channels from Sports to local, pay per view and premium channels, everyone worked like it did before this crap came along!! Best $25 I ever spent!! Here is the Amazon Link took 1 day to get here with Free Amazon Prime 2 Day Shipping! View HD Mini HDMI Splitter

      If you have any questions feel free to send me a message on my Facebook Page here at CBM Racing


      Reply

      CBM Racing

      • Feb 27, 2016 - 4:21 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks for confirming CBM Racing! 

        It’s the exact same model that I tested (2nd in the list), which seemed to fail with some. Good to know though that there are still versions that seem to work! 

        Reply

        hans

        • Feb 28, 2016 - 7:28 PM - CBM Racing Comment Link

          Your welcome. Ya I had no clue which one to buy because who knows if by the time you get it they fixed itml I felt like I was drowning in a sea of HDMI Splitters and converters so I literally picked and prayed! I use it for a livestream so if it didnt work I would have had 20,000+ pissed off people sending me digital hate mail and comments. So it works with the Direct Tv Genie Mini paired up with a Elgato HD capture card. Really simple to setup plugin the power supply then take the HDMI cable coming out of the Genie Mini and plug it into the HDMI input on the box. I used  HDMI Output 1 into the Elgatos HDMI Input then another cable from the Elgatos HDMI out to my 2014 Vizio smart tv and everything worked like a dream. I personally wouldn’t leave it setup 24/7. Use it only when you need it then unplug the splitter and put it back into its box until its needed again. I ran two 3 hour streams with it and it got warm so to have a good long life I recommend shutting it off when not in use because I have no clue if it will last a day or 10 years that is for another post I guess. But yes its confirmed as of February 27th 2016 it strips away HDCP encryption instantly. Hope this helps someone. Cheers!!!

          Reply

          CBM Racing

        • Feb 29, 2016 - 4:15 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Awesome! 
          Thanks again for sharing! 

          Reply

          hans

    • Feb 27, 2016 - 4:25 AM Comment Link
      PingBack: www.tweaking4all.nl

      […] English […]

    • Mar 1, 2016 - 6:50 PM - Shane Comment Link

      Hi 

      Does anyone have a link to a splitter from a UK seller that strips HDCP? 

      Thanks. 

      Reply

      Shane

      • Mar 2, 2016 - 4:07 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Shane,

        I’m not aware of a specific store in the UK, but Amazon delivers (certain articles) to Europe, and you might get lucky on eBay.
        AliExpress is a potential good resource as well – although I have not tested any of these splitters, I would presume there are only a few factories actually building them (pay attention to the description and possibly ask the seller for confirmation).

        Hope this helps a little bit …

        Reply

        hans

        • Mar 2, 2016 - 10:41 AM - Shane Comment Link

          No worries, I’ve ordered one from Amazon UK that has conflicting reviews, guess I’ll try it myself to find out. I’ll report back whether or not it was successful. 

          Reply

          Shane

        • Mar 2, 2016 - 2:39 PM - Shane Comment Link

          Hi Hans,

          I’m very happy to report the one I purchased from Amazon UK works perfectly. 

          Here is the link for anyone interested. 

          http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006KZBC92

          Reply

          Shane

          • Mar 2, 2016 - 3:12 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Awesome!!! 

            Thanks for posting the Amazon link as well! Looks like most of the other 2-way splitters listed above. Great to have confirmation that this one works as well!

            Reply

            hans

          • Mar 7, 2016 - 6:51 AM - SimKard Comment Link

            Hello and thanks, I just ordered one.

            I will update and post a new message as soon as I receive it and make some tests.

            Thanks !

            Reply

            SimKard

      • Mar 2, 2016 - 9:39 PM - dominick_7 Comment Link

        @Shane- Here you go:

        digi4u.co.uk link

        Reply

        dominick_7

    • Mar 6, 2016 - 3:17 PM - dazzer169 Comment Link

      Have I got some questions!

      Firstly, thanks everyone on this post for the helpful comments, and advice re: HDCP removal, the sheer genuineness of the those who have helped others is very heartening, its rare to see a forum where sarcasm is the least of our worries!

      My problem is that I have the following kit:-

      BTSport YouView device (I am in UK) >> HDFury Integral >> Intensity Pro 4K……..

      I am only interested in recording a 3840 x 2160 4K signal, and after a week of having all the above kit together (the HDFury Integral was the last to arrive), I have tried simply everything with this combination of kit, including trying the hacked 04622, but to no avail, Media Express only ever shows 1920 x 1080 50 at best. A few years ago, with my trusty Hauppauge PVR 1 and then 2, I got used to having no problems at all with 1080 using a 1080 splitter to remove HDCP v1.3, but right now, the last thing I want to see is a 1080 signal showing on Media Express!

      I know that the removal of HDCP v2.2 encryption and, subsequently via the Integral, HDCP v1.4 encryption, needs to happen for a 4K capture device to have a decrypted signal, but I am not sure if I have it correct in my assumptions that the hacked firmware 046022 is meant to be removing HDCP v1.4 from the HDFury Integral’s output. 

      I know the HDFury Integral by defaults helps to remove HDCP v2.2 and output with HDCP v1.4, and that also by default, HDCP v1.4 encryption isn’t being removed.

      Tests as per comments on here using the hacked firmware 046022, whilst setting the EDID switch to the bottom position, and reinserting the source etc are making no difference, because the Intensity Pro 4K is not seeing any 4K signal whatsoever, aside from the audio channels in Media Express being “alive”.

      As a side note, I am using an older firmware for the Intensity Pro 4K that is recommended on Blackmagic’s forums, but still no joy.

      This is failing I think for one, or maybe both, of the following reasons:-

      1:- The Intensity Pro 4K is only able to accept up to 3840 x 2160 30, whilst the BTSport YouView device outputs ONLY at 3840 x 2160 50. I am not sure, and need help with this, as to whether the Intensity Pro 4K (and other similar capture cards) would, if they see a 3840 x 2160 50 signal incoming, drop the signal down to 30hz and work with that lower refresh rate if that is the highest refresh rate they can cope with, or do they simply have no chance of using a signal with a higher refresh rate?

      2:- The hacked 046022 fw for the HDFury Integral is not working as I think it should be………because I am assuming the hack is supposed to be removing the HDCP v1.4 encryption from the output of the Intregral? Is it, and I hope this isn’t the case, that the hacked fw 046022 only removes HDCP v1.4 for lower (1080) resolutions and not 4K signals?

      I am unsure as to whether what I think should be happening in 1: and 2: above are correct, so would be very interested to hear from others who might see where the issue is here….

      If its correct that my only issue here would be that the Intensity Pro 4K is never going to be able to work with the 50hz 4K signal that my BTSport YouView box outputs at (and therefore meaning the HDFury Integral is doing everything correctly), then I might need to return the Intensity Pro 4K and get one of the £500 extra capture cards from Blackmagic, that are listed as being able to work at up to 4k @ 60hz, expensive and frustrating if so, but if I need to do that, then so be it.

      Help!  (copious amounts of Beer can be forwarded to anyone who manages to get me over this frustrating hurdle!)

      Reply

      dazzer169

      • Mar 7, 2016 - 3:48 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Dazzer169!

        Thank you for your kind words – staying kind and helping each other is most certainly the most important thing for my website! 
        Unfortunately, I do not have the HDFury or 4K video sources for that matter.
        I’m sure one of the guys here can help though.

        Reply

        hans

      • Mar 11, 2016 - 5:22 AM - Dominick Comment Link

        After you flash the firmware you have to unplug and replug it in to reboot it. Why are you using the Integral and the other device? Just use the Integral. Because you need 4K you likely need another firmware. You’ll want to ask a mod at the HDFury forum for which one youll need. If you get the right answer please do let us know what you find out that works please. Hope to do the same with 4K in the future. The storage space needed will be insane though.

        Reply

        Dominick

    • Mar 8, 2016 - 6:13 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      This model, available at AliExpress for only about $8 with free shipping, has been reported (on the Dutch version of this article) to strip HDCP as well.
      It’s also reported that this one does NOT get hot, unlike some other models. 

      Reply

      hans

      • Mar 28, 2016 - 12:25 PM - james Comment Link

        Thanks for the heads up.  I’ll give that one a shot.

        Reply

        james

      • May 4, 2016 - 4:40 PM - J.B Comment Link

        Do you know if there is a US electric plug version?

        Reply

        J.B

        • May 5, 2016 - 3:35 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Very good question, I had not thought about that. The ad doesn’t say anything about it, so you might want to contact the seller.

          A side note though;

          – Quite often these are simple 5V power supplies, and quite often they work in the 100-240V range,
          – The poster (beneath the Dutch article) even used it without power supply (use short HDMI cable).

          But asking the seller is definitely recommended – please let us know if they are available with a US plug in case you find out.

          Reply

          hans

    • Apr 22, 2016 - 1:40 AM - Don Comment Link

      Hello. I am in need of a bit of help here. I have a Sony KD65-9004A 4KTV. It is HDMI 2.0a compatible but according to Sony not HDCP 2.2 compliant. Is the HD Fury Integral what I would need to get the 4K signal to my TV?

      Reply

      Don

      • Apr 22, 2016 - 5:25 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Don,

        since I do not have a HD Fury, maybe one of the visitors here that actually do have one, can comment on this?

        Reply

        hans

      • Apr 22, 2016 - 9:57 PM - Brian Comment Link

        Yes.

        Reply

        Brian

        • Apr 22, 2016 - 10:21 PM - Dominick Comment Link

          You need the hack too right, to put it in the same folder as the original firmware but replace it with that one. Sucks HD Fury got shut down tonight.. First Slysoft now them :/

          Reply

          Dominick

      • Apr 22, 2016 - 10:15 PM - Dominick Comment Link

        Think its the firmware posted above but not sure. Currently asking them that now. Want to hook up a Tivo Bolt to record in 4K potentially. BTW HD FURY IS BEING SHUT DOWN.. actually its done TONIGHT, so if anyone here got an Integral, you just made it..

        Reply

        Dominick

        • Apr 25, 2016 - 12:33 AM - Don Comment Link

          Just ordered one now from their website so I think it hasn’t quite been shut down yet.  Order went through so I’m assuming it’s all good. Thanks for the help.

          Reply

          Don

    • Apr 30, 2016 - 1:28 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

      For those interested: two users confirmed that this HDMI splitter from AliExpress ($10/free shipping) works and strips HDCP.
      The unit does not even seem to get warm, and one user even runs it without a power-supply. 

      Reply

      hans

      • May 9, 2016 - 5:55 AM - Nils Comment Link

        Thanks for this info, should I be worried though that in the description of the specs its says

        HDCP pass-through

        or

        HDCP compliant

        ?

        Reply

        Nils

        • May 9, 2016 - 6:42 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi Nils,

          well, the Chinese merchants are horrible when it comes to a proper description, and on top of it, I suspect they’d like to not mention HDCP stripping too clearly. The one linked here has been tested by at least 2 people, but since these splitters have a come-and-go pattern when it comes to HDCP stripping, it will always be a little gamble if it will work properly. Then again, the price is right I would say for a gamble like this one, and seeing confirmations here would give me more comfort as well.

          Reply

          hans

          • May 19, 2016 - 4:45 AM - Nils Comment Link

            Hey,

            I can confirm that I bought the same splitter form Ebay and I was able to remove th HDCP and record from PS Vita throughh the Elgato HD.

            Here is the link:

            http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262348290326

            Thanks for everyones help :-)

            Reply

            Nils

            • May 21, 2016 - 3:23 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Awesome Nils!

              Thanks for posting and sharing! This will most certainly help others. 

              hans

    • May 11, 2016 - 1:19 PM - Fuller Comment Link

      About 6 months ago I bought one of the “cheapie” splitters (forget the brand, $19.95) and it worked fine for about two weeks. I did notice it seemed to be pretty hot. Then one day I saw weird flashes on the TV, and before I could do anything the screen went blank.  Apparently something shorted in the splitter, and it fried the HDMI input in the TV.  Had to resort to using the Composite connectors to use the TV.  So just be aware!  I did read a real horror story about  use of a multi-port splitter in a Bar with multiple TVs where several of the big screen TVs were wiped out.–  Just FWIW.

      Reply

      Fuller

      • May 12, 2016 - 3:51 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks for the heads-up Fuller!

        I had not heard such horror stories before, I have however heard about a Raspberry Pi and a Pine64 blowing up HDMI ports, somehow.
        Just being curious, but is all your equipment grounded?

        Reply

        hans

      • May 12, 2016 - 8:04 AM - Brian Comment Link

        The ARC hdmi input on my 60″ plasma tv was fried by the Rogers Nexbox pvr when it malfunctioned and died. Rogers won’t pay for repair because I can’t prove their equipment caused the damage. Is there something available to protect hdmi inputs?

        Reply

        Brian

        • May 12, 2016 - 8:35 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Man that s*cks … 

          Since I have never experienced this (knock on wood!);

          1) Connect everything while all devices are powered OFF
          2) Make sure all your devices are grounded if possible

          That last one still baffles me, since a lot of TV’s have NO ground pin on their power cord. Maybe there is a smart reason for that, of which I’m not aware.

          A friend of mine fried his HDMI ports by plugging the HDMI cables in while the devices were ON. Well, at least that’s the theory. Even though HDMI is supposed to be hot-swappable, manufacturers (Sony at least) state in their manuals that all devices must be OFF before connecting things (see this SuperUser.com post).

          Then again, grounding might introduce HDMI ground loop hum. Never experienced that one either, but there a plenty posts online discussing that.

          Reply

          hans

    • Jul 5, 2016 - 9:19 AM - Julie Hart - Author: Comment Link

      I have had problems with this too.  I ended up buy new cables from https://www.firefold.com.  This helped.  Not sure what happened to the old cables as they worked fine before.  Anyway, I am good to go now!

      Reply

      Julie Hart

    • Jul 21, 2016 - 7:57 AM - Rob Comment Link

      Hi guys!

      This Article was a life saver for me! I switched televisions when I moved and suddenly my PS3>Onkyo>LG TV (used to be a samsung) didn’t work anymore! Whereas the A.C. Ryan>Onkyo>LG TV still worked fine… So I didn’t have a clue what was happening. Didn’t even know there was copy protection protocols through HDMI!
      I have just received the splitter below and got PS3>splitter>LG TV working in 2 minutes :D
      THANKS A LOT! I will also try all devices>Onkyo>splitter>LG TV to see if that works (because in the meantime I also bought a Chromecast which also ‘denies’my tv)

      http://www.aliexpress.com/item/HDCP-HDMI-Splitter-Full-HD-1080p-Video-HDMI-Switch-Switcher-1X2-Split-1-in-2-Out/32545017175.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.51.JRqsDO

      Reply

      Rob

      • Jul 21, 2016 - 8:44 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Awesome Rob!

        Thank you and good to hear that you’ve got things up and running again – and thank you so much for posting the link of the model you purchased! 

        Reply

        hans

        • Sep 8, 2016 - 2:35 AM - Rob Comment Link

          just wanted to say that connecting the splitter after my onkyo receiver solved the problems with both the chromecast and the Playstation. So I didn’t need 2 splitters. Thought this might help some people. Thanks again!

          Reply

          Rob

          • Sep 8, 2016 - 8:08 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Thank Rob for letting us know.
            That’s awesome!!  Glad you’ve got it to work!

            Reply

            hans

    • Jul 21, 2016 - 7:35 PM - Kurt Comment Link

      Glad to hear some other are having success with other solutions but just to throw my 2cents in here, I have chased this dragon for years. My big hangup was video conferencing content share from devices that we own specifically but arent hdcp compliant. Some of these are hardwares being tested and created. The only solution I have found that consistently has allowed me to conduct my business…..is the ViewHD 1×2 MN3D. I have tested and tested over last few years now and for me, the only solution I have had faith in is that specific model 

      Reply

      Kurt

    • Jul 24, 2016 - 4:15 PM - Chet Comment Link

      I am a little bit concerned. After reading the article and ALL or the responses above, I just learned that people believe that HDFury got shut down, but I came across this page after I ordered the Integral 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz from their web site. The order went through just fine and I read some other recent news that they have filed a suit against Warner & Intel (http://www.digitaltrends.com/movies/legendsky-counterclaim-warner-bros-digital-content-protection/). So maybe they’re still alive and manufacturing new products. I don’t need to strip all HDCP, just go from a 2.2 device to a 1.4 TV. I am not sure that any of the splitters mentioned above would strip 2.2 because the article was written a while ago.

      Can anyone confirm any splitters that remove HDCP 2.2 for 4K that don’t require something else to be hooked up to the other output of the splitter? 

      Reply

      Chet

      • Jul 25, 2016 - 3:06 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Chet,

        I’m not a HDFury owner, so maybe some of the other HDFury users can answer your question.

        Also note that this article is indeed not intended to “rip” DHCP protected content, but to playback video on devices that are not HDCP compatible (like you do).

        Reply

        hans

        • Jul 25, 2016 - 6:16 AM - Chet Comment Link

          Thanks Hans. I received confirmation that the Integral has shipped. I will report back my findings. I am definitely not trying to pirate anything, just simply trying to get 4K content onto my 4K TV with HDCP 1.4.

          Reply

          Chet

          • Jul 26, 2016 - 3:52 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Hi Chet,

            I’m curious if they are still shipping, so any info would be useful for other users 

            I realize you’re not using it for illegal activities, just wanted to write it below your post, so others might not get the idea that it was intended for that purpose. I myself am planning to make an ambilight project with this, and I have seen others with problematic HDMI equipment who found a good use for this as well,… so no illegal stuff either. 

            Reply

            hans

            • Jul 26, 2016 - 7:27 AM - Chet Comment Link

              I received a shipping notice first thing Monday morning. I am expecting it to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday). I will hook it up immediately, try some 4K content and report back. :) 

              Chet

            • Jul 26, 2016 - 7:54 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              I’d be excited as well …. nice stuff you got there!

              hans

            • Jul 26, 2016 - 9:07 PM - Chet Comment Link

              Well, it arrived today (a day early) and really surprised me.

              After spending the last 3 hours trying to get this thing to work with my 4KTV, I FINALLY got it set up properly. This was NOT a plug and play device. Honestly, I did so many things to try and get this thing to work. So many combinations of settings. Updated firmware, updated software, uninstall and reinstall of Netflix on the Roku, resetting to 4K UHD on the Roku, going between a Vudu UHD movie and Netflix just trying to get “Ultra HD 4K” to show up as an option…. I couldn’t even replicate my steps. BUT, I finally think I have been able to get the handshake to work.

              The Roku now recognizes the Integra as a 4K device. The TV now recognizes the Roku and a 4K signal. 

              • I am able to get the TV to display 3840×2160 / 60Hz
              • I am able to get YouTube to display 3840 x 2160@24
              • I am able to get Vudu to display “UHD”
              • I am able to get Netflix to display “Ultra HD 4K” as an option and 15.3 Mbps/15.3 Mbps/15.3 Mbps / 3840 * 2160

              So, I don’t know how I did it, but this TV is finally displaying beautiful 4K content!

              Chet

            • Jul 27, 2016 - 3:48 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              At least it’s good to hear that you’ve got it to work, and we now know that the device is capable of doing it!

              Thanks for sharing 

              hans

    • Aug 8, 2016 - 10:40 PM - Ted Comment Link

      A very interesting article – and lots of great input/replies to it, however, I couldn’t find anything that addressed the situation I’m about to built, so I wonder if you and/or your other readers could answer this question for me:

      If a HDCP 1.2 Protocol Compliant splitter is used between a P.C. and a home theater video projector, would this permit the video file to play – regardless of the protection that may or may not be on the source video/DVD/BluRay??

      Thanks

      Reply

      Ted

      • Aug 9, 2016 - 4:27 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Using a HDMI Splitter, a PC and a projector, might or might not work.

        This all depends if the projector is HDMI compliant and if the content played is HDCP protected or not.
        If there is no HDCP protection used (and your PC is not adding this either), then it should just work.
        However, with each PC/OS/Mediaplayer software combination, this can be different.

        As for the standard, HDMI 1.2 vs 1.3, it’s a little unclear to me as of which standard HDCP is being added (see also this Wiki page).

        This is exactly the reason why I started experimenting with these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP. It solves all the incompatibility issues – if you pick the right splitter. The latter is why we post our findings here with the cheap splitters we find all over the Internet.

        So if you do not yet have a HDMI splitter: try one of these cheap ones listed here in the article and in the posts.
        If you already do have one, then just hook it up and see what happens.

        Reply

        hans

        • Aug 9, 2016 - 8:41 AM - Ted Comment Link

          Thanks Hans.

          The projector does have HDMI in, so this is not an issue.  In the past I have connected a lap-top to a TV via HDMI without any problems.  I’ve also connected a HDD to a TV via USB, without any problems.  This will be different in that I’ll be using a splitter so I can share the signal from my desk-top computer with a video projector, my PC monitor and a receiver (where one HDMI line will carry the audio).

          As for “cheap” splitters – – I’m a firm believer that higher priced items don’t necessarily mean better – so I have no problem with this suggestion.  That being said, I haven’t been able to find a low priced one among those listed on this site, that offer 1 in and 3 or 4 out (they all only have 1 in and 2 out), and the only ones that I can find which offer this make-up also are HDCP compliant, thus my question about the signal from the PC (which isn’t HDCP compliant) being able to pass through without any blockage problems from the splitter.

          Reply

          Ted

        • Aug 9, 2016 - 9:02 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi Ted,

          I can confirm that my cheap splitter, 1.5 years later, still works great … so cheap does indeed not always mean “junk”. 

          As for finding a 1×3 or 1×4 splitter,… I see that most just want a 1×2, so you’re right that you could not find much on larger models. However, when looking at AliExpress, I did find some. The result of my search can be found here.

          I have not been able to test any of these, so it remains a gamble. This one however looks a lot like mine, just bigger, and advertises HDCP as well. Now I cannot guarantee that this one works of course, but it’s $15. It might be worth a try.

          I did find a couple on Amazon as well, again: no guarantee that they will remove HDCP, but not super expensive either.
          With this model a user suggests it strips HDCP, not sure if that is still the case of course. You might want to go through the reviews of the splitters presented in this Amazon Search and look for HDCP.
          Amazon might be a few dollars more, but when located in the US, shipping will be a lot faster.

          If you find a model that works, please let us know, so I can update the list in this article … 

          Reply

          hans

          • Aug 9, 2016 - 2:31 PM - Ted Comment Link

            Thanks again Hans,

            I believe I’ll check out the PORTTA 4PET0104 splitter (from Amazon).  I’ll let you know how this “cheap” unit works.

            Ted

            Reply

            Ted

            • Aug 10, 2016 - 4:26 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Thank Ted! That would be great! 
              I’ll keep my fingers crossed that this one does the trick.

              One thing Ive noticed with 1×4 devices, as far as I could find info online: At least one of the output ports might need a HDCP compliant device. I understand that this typically should be port 4 or 3. But again; I have not had the chance to play with a 1×4 splitter. So your input would be great, even if that particular model fails.

              hans

    • Aug 14, 2016 - 1:00 PM - Ted Comment Link

      Hi Hal,

      I’m about to disappoint you – – I’ve decided not to use a 1:4 splitter, so won’t be able to test out the one I was going to get.  The reason for this change of plan is because further research has shown that I can get the same results by running a HDMI line from the PC to the receiver and then run a new line from the receiver to the projector – – apparently with-out any signal loss…

      This brings me to a new question for you:

      my current choice for a 1×2 splitterr is the VHD-1X2MN3D – – however, I notice that ViewHD has another splitter that has similar approval ratings – the Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1×2 Mini Splitter | Model: VHD-Pluto.  Do you have any experience from this unit – and if so, even though I don’t plan to move up to 4k in the long range future, do you think it would be a wise choice, or would I be better off sticking with the older model (the MN3D)??

      Ted

      Reply

      Ted

      • Aug 14, 2016 - 8:30 PM - Trev Comment Link

        Hey Ted,

        Just be aware that the route you are about to take may not work.  I have several Onkyo receivers that I was trying to take the main HDMI output, as well as trying the secondary HDMI output, into a splitter with it’s main HDMI output going my Samsung LED TV and the secondary output to an HDMI video recorder.  For whatever reason, I could never get it to work.  Only when I took the HDMI output from a device (AppleTV, Amazon FireTV, Bluray player) into the splitter, it’s main output to the TV and the secondary output to a recorder did it work.  You may have better luck with a different AV Receiver (and please post your findings here as well as model numbers for all the equipment used) as well as just going into a projector.  Good luck and let us know how it goes!

        Reply

        Trev

      • Aug 15, 2016 - 4:26 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        No worries Ted – you’re not disappointing me 
        After all, we all have to find our way to a working solution, and in the end that’s all that matters.
        Sharing your findings here is appreciated though, since others might run into a similar scenario.

        As for 4K splitters: I have no experience with those, since I have no use (yet) for 4K video. Maybe in the future when I decide to invest in a new TV . Considering the price of a working 1×2 HDMI splitter (non 4K), I’d go with that one, unless the 4K splitter strips HDCP as wel of course and only if it’s affordable.

        @Trev: Thanks for sharing!
        On my old (5 years old) Yamaha this worked: HDCP source into HDMI-input of the receiver, and the HDMI output of the receiver to a splitter and the splitter to my TV. But I have heard of others running into the same situation as you did where the splitter had to be connected directly to the source that had HDCP protection.

        Reply

        hans

      • Aug 15, 2016 - 8:45 AM - Ted Comment Link

        Further research has steered me away from the unit I was considering – not because it won’t work, but because, where I live (Canada), it was going to cost more than double, at Amazon.ca, than what Amazon.com sells it for…. 

         I’ve since settled on a different unit, that’s also available from Amazon in both countries (link – supports HDMI 1.4, 4K, keeps audio te same as the source). One customer review said it will strip out the HDCP protection, but, for their purposes (gaming), it caused other problems. 

         We shall see…

        Reply

        Ted

    • Sep 2, 2016 - 11:17 AM - Michael Comment Link

      Hey, Everyone!  Thanks for the great info.

      I am wondering about the following:  Dish DVR > splitter > dual output (TV and computer storage).  (My DVR is too full, and is not really for archiving.)  I do not want to lose any content quality when copying for personal use later.  All done by HDMI of course.

      1. Any specific recommendations?

      2. Any definitive word on keeping surround sound capability?

      Thank you very much.

      Reply

      Michael

      • Sep 3, 2016 - 7:34 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Your setup will work.
        A few things you’d want to pay attention to, if you’d like to keep the surround sound:

        1) The splitter will have to support surround sound (AC3/DTS/etc/etc).
        Some of these splitters seem to downsample to just stereo, so you’ll have to pay attention to that.

        2) For recording on your PC, you’d need some sorts of video grabber.
        There are several different brands and models available, and I’m sure that not all of them support surround sound like AC3/DTS either. So you’ll have to pay attention with that one as well. Here is a list at Amazon for example, listing the HDMI “recorders” they have available. I recommend reading the specs (which rarely mention surround sound) and check the user comments.

        Hope this helps.

        Reply

        hans

        • Sep 3, 2016 - 7:46 PM - Michael Comment Link

          Yes, that helps a great deal.

          I think the problem is going to be finding an inexpensive video grabber.

          Thank you for the good direction.

          Reply

          Michael

        • Sep 4, 2016 - 10:50 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Hi Michael,

          I know it’s not top of the line, but I have been very pleased with my Elgato Game Capture HD.
          It’s not the cheapest I have seen, app.$150, but it has performed very well for me on both MacOS X and Windows 10.

          So far I’ve used it for:

          – HDMI recording (tests for this article, and some game recording),
          – screenshots from a HDMI input (for documenting some of my articles here),
          – converting VHS to MP4. 

          It is not often mentioned that the Elgato has the option for analog input as well (component, super video and composite – if I recall correctly, for s-video a separate cable needs to be purchased). My sister had an echo of her first kid, and received it in 2003 on VHS and DVD. The VHS recording with the Elgato actually proved of a better quality than the DVD that had been made at the time.

          In the past I have had Hauppauge, which used to have a stellar reputation, but long term driver support has been disappointing – not sure what the status is these days. 

          Pinnacle used to be my favorite on the Windows platform, but since I have switched to Mac, I can’t use it anymore. It also has been relatively quiet with that company, not sure if that’s a good or a bad thing.

          I have tried a few cheap grabbers from eBay, AliExpress and the likes – they work, but in the end drivers become a problem and the quality isn’t the best.

          I have found that searching for a “game capturing” device, shows quite a few good options.
          Another good option might be one of these upcoming “video recorders” – a little box, that runs standalone, grabs video and the stores it on a USB drive.

          Reply

          hans

          • Sep 5, 2016 - 9:47 PM - Michael Comment Link

            Thanks for that.  How do you feel about the products from Epiphan?  Not that I’m going to buy one; just curious.

            Reply

            Michael

            • Sep 6, 2016 - 6:54 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Their website looks great and gives a good impression … but unfortunately, I have never had the pleasure of seeing, using or even hearing about their products. This obviously doesn’t mean their products are bad … I just have zero experience with them.

              hans

    • Sep 4, 2016 - 11:32 AM - Heiko Langrehr Comment Link

      I trying to use Directv on a video wall prossesor but the darn DCHP keep messing it up. Any ideas to get around it. Thanks I can really use some help 

      Reply

      Heiko Langrehr

      • Sep 4, 2016 - 2:01 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Heiko!

        I’m assuming you’re using HDMI to go from your DirecTV receiver to your video wall processor, and your video is 720 or 1080 (not 4K), then you could try one of the cheap HDMI splitters mentioned in this article. 

        You would not use it to actually split HDMI, but rather to remove the HDCP protection, so it will not interfere with your video wall processor.
        So DirecTV receiver -> splitter -> Video wall processor.

        The splitters have become very cheap, I’d guess around $10.

        Reply

        hans

      • Sep 6, 2016 - 4:36 PM - Joe Comment Link

        This might be a little late for you, but I was trying to do the same thing. The only way I could solve it was to downgrade the signal to component and then back up again to HDMI. Video Wall looks great. From 20 feet away, the difference between that signal and a pure 1080 HD signal is almost negligible.

        Reply

        Joe

        • Sep 6, 2016 - 9:30 PM - Heiko Langrehr Comment Link

          Thanks Joe. So the HDMI strpper thing didnt work for you? I have ordered both since the directv boxes have component out. Sure hope I can get this finshed and have my customer of my back. Dont know why the vido prossesers have it build in that they don’t cause the problem. I will up date as soon as I have the problem solved. FYI DIsh dose not have the same problems.

          Reply

          Heiko Langrehr

        • Sep 7, 2016 - 7:59 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Not all splitters strip HDCP – I think that’s one of the major issues when picking one.
          So before doing anything complicated, test if it really strips HDCP.

          Please keep us posted on how things work out! I’ll keep my fingers crossed! 

          Reply

          hans

    • Sep 6, 2016 - 11:18 AM - herboer Comment Link

      Thanks 4 your info

      TIP:

      I got the  CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DHCP

      Reply

      herboer

    • Sep 6, 2016 - 11:28 AM - herboer Comment Link

      Thanks 4 your info

      TIP:

      I got the CKITZE BG-520 splitter V1,3 and it successfully removed the DTCP

      But watch out, the more recent V1,3b model doesn’t work

      Reply

      herboer

      • Sep 7, 2016 - 8:01 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Herboer! 

        Seems the CKITZE BG-520 is a hit and miss. I noticed that the HDMI 1.3b compatible models seem to fail stripping HDCP.
        Note: a good (and cheap) alternative source for splitters that strip HDCP is AliExpress.

        Reply

        hans

    • Sep 12, 2016 - 11:19 AM - Robby Comment Link

      This thread has been really helpful to me. Thanks everyone! 

      I wanted to share some info for my specific situation. I have a nice Apple computer display that I wanted to use to watch Blu Rays from my BD Player. I’m playing only discs I’ve purchased and I’m not interested in copying them. 

      The monitor uses DVI-D and of course does not have HDCP. Typically, hooking things up it will flash thrice, which means “wrong video format.” Computer monitors and TVs are not the same devices in all ways. Based on the great info here I was able to get a setup that works pretty well. 

      Basically it’s BD player > Portta HDMI 1.3 Splitter > E-More HDMI to DVI & Audio Extractor > Apple Cinema Display. 

      I get good 2-channel audio from the Audio Extractor, which is as much as I need. You can probably get 5.1 cia coax digital but I have no way to test that.

      It’s not perfect but it works. The aspect ratio of my display isn’t the same as 1080p, it’s a 1920×1200. The video image is at the top of the screen, with a strange repeat of the frame on the bottom 1″ of the screen. It’s easy to ignore and I haven’t figured out how to avoid it. In terms of color, I suspect it’s not quite right. Based on some research it’s likely that the display expects to get full-range 0-255 RGB. My BD player doesn’t have a ton of settings and it’s most likely sending it limited-range 16-235 RGB. No Deep Color possible via DVI Single Link. Still it looks fantastic generally. I’m going to put a piece of paper over it and call it done. 

      Here’s what did NOT work for me:

      Sanoxy 1.3 Splitter – PCB says ‘HDMI 1.4 1to2 with 3D, Rev1.1″ even though listing was for HDMI 1.3. Generic and branded chips. Seller was not Speed LLC, should have tried that.

      Ali Express 1.3 Splitter – PCB is different from above, says “20150710 , 0102”, Branded chips. Might work for you, though.

      HDMI to DVI adapter (general type) in any configuration. Well, when used as follows I got a signal but it had lots of horiz pink lines. Not acceptable.  BD Player > Portta Splitter > HDMI to DVI adapter > Apple Cinema Display.

      Sony BD player. I got lucky and got a Samsung that worked. I believe it uses HDMI 1.4 vs the Sony’s 1.3, but it’s not listed in the manual.  I was surprised that would make a difference. 

      Anyway I hope this helps anyone in my same situation. Based on my googling for my display, there are others out there. 

      Cheers

      Reply

      Robby

      • Sep 14, 2016 - 4:15 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Robby for sharing your findings and contributing to the conversation!
        Awesome!

        And of course: great that you’ve got things to work.
        Thanks again for sharing! 

        Reply

        hans

    • Sep 22, 2016 - 3:42 AM - Turom Comment Link

      Thanks for this very informative article and comments.

      I’m currently looking for an HDMI splitter that will remove HDCP and manage EDID. I explained in detail my case on this post: 

      https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/comments/53uokh/need_help_finding_the_hdmi_splitter_that_suits_my/

      Do you have any suggestion for a suiting model?

      Reply

      Turom

      • Sep 22, 2016 - 3:16 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Ehm … I’ll admit that I had to lookup EDID … 
        Maybe some of the visitors have a suggestion, I honestly wouldn’t know. 

        Reply

        hans

    • Sep 22, 2016 - 12:24 PM - russ collins Comment Link

      Hi chaps,

      What im trying to achieve doesn’t seem to be listed here so far.

      I have a 28″ viewsonic VX2880ml 4K monitor which will only do 30fps for 4k. 

      I am trying to find a way to use my amazon 4K firetv box on this monitor, but even with a couple of the switch boxes listed here (cant remember what they are im at work so will look later, the iSolem is one) I am unable to get this to work yet.

      Question is, because the monitor is HDMI 1.4 am I out of luck anyway, or could this still be possible to get working?

      Reply

      russ collins

      • Sep 22, 2016 - 3:15 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Russ,

        I do not have any 4K equipment, but as far as I recall HDMI 1.3 only supports up to 1080p (see Wiki, which indicates that 4K starts as of HDMI 1.4).

        Now, this doesn’t mean you’re out of luck, it will just be a matter of finding the right splitter (if it exists).
        Maybe others here have suggestions, since I cannot test this, but I’d assume AliExpress is the most likely source – read the comments, if any are available on AliExpress underneath the product info. The descriptions can be pretty bad.

        If you find one, please post it here! I’m sure others would love to see one of those!

        Reply

        hans

    • Sep 26, 2016 - 12:42 PM - Jeff29 Comment Link

      I’ve been successfully using the SANOXY:

      I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD connected to a DirectTV satellite receiver with the SANOXY.  I suspect DTV changed their encryption last week to stop support covered by the SANOXY.  I initially bought 2 of the SANOXY splitters (in case one failed).  When I received them I verified both work.  The 1st thing I did was test with the 2nd and now both fail.

      It is very frustrating that broadcasters can now work with manufacturers to determine when your TV stops working.

      I’m still researching and also in the process of testing an alternate solution and will post, here, with new information.

      Reply

      Jeff29

      • Oct 1, 2016 - 5:14 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Jeff,

        thank you very much for reporting your succes. 

        Strange though that they no longer seem to work now …
        I’m not sure that DirecTV can add to their firmware to not work with certain equipment.
        As far as I understand how HDCP works, a “license key” (see: Wiki HDCP) is requested. Such a license is obtained by the TV manufacturer, and I would assume that blocking such a license, would mean that potentially a lot of TV’s will no longer work.

        I can also not imagine that firmware of for example the DirecTV box has all possible [valid and invalid] licenses available, this would mean constant updating of the firmware since new licenses will be released frequently, not to mention that one would not know how many licenses would be available in the next year(s).

        Maybe this FAQ gives ore info, but as far as I understand, when the license expires, the manufacturer simply must stop using the keys – so I assume that the expired key will still function. The manufacturer is simply not allowed to use it anymore in newly manufactured equipment.

        Did you connect everything as you had done before when the splitter did work?
        Did you try connecting a valid HDCP device (ie. your TV) to the “other” port on the splitter?

        Reply

        hans

        • Oct 3, 2016 - 9:03 AM - Jeff29 Comment Link

          Hans,

          First, thank you for your time!  You have taught me more about HDCP and what you say aligns with my  results.

          I have a Pioneer Elite 1540HD.  When DTV initially turned on HDCP it stopped working.  I know this because I spoke with DTV and they told me the day they turned on HDCP (which matched the time the 1540HD stopped displaying video and gave me the HDCP error).

          When it stopped again I just assumed DTV changed their version of HDCP and eliminated systems supporting older versions of the spec.  Yes, I know the spec covers backwards-compatibility but I have read that coverage can be inadequate.

          I ordered several other HDCP strippers and tested.  All failed.

          In the process of testing and pulling my hair out I finally went back to a basic premise for testing and removed my scan-converter (DVDO iScan Duo) to direct-connect my DTV HR20 and TV (over an extender).  The TV started working, again.

          I immediately plugged back in the original SANOXY (from the link, above) and it worked, too.

          Last year the DVDO engineer told me I needed to upgrade my firware because of an HDCP issue.  Everything was working so I didn’t bother–and I forgot until this process queued the memory.

          I will be upgrading my DVDO, ASAP!  I anticipate it will resovle the issue given everything appears to be working when I remove it from the chain.

          I will post my results.

          Thank you, again, both for your initial post sharing valuable information and for your care in following up and continuing to help!

          Reply

          Jeff29

          • Oct 4, 2016 - 6:10 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Thanks Jeff29, for the compliments, and you’re most welcome. I actually enjoy writing articles and interaction with visitors. If only I could do this for a daytime job ….

            Good to hear you’ve got the issue resolved. I guess the faulty firmware with DHCP issue could cause unexpected results, as in your case. Glad it’s fixed now,… 

            Reply

            hans

    • Oct 2, 2016 - 7:16 AM Comment Link
      PingBack: coolquentin.com

      […] bit tricky because not all HDMI splitter have this “feature” more about that here link. Alternative 1: you can you use this kind of HDMI to SDI converters link and extend the range a […]

    • Oct 3, 2016 - 11:01 AM - Michael Comment Link

      No link or references showing up in your post.

      Reply

      Michael

    • Oct 4, 2016 - 8:51 AM - Michael Comment Link

      The one directly above from PingBack: coolquentin.com

      Reply

      Michael

    • Nov 6, 2016 - 2:16 PM - timman Comment Link

      Sorry if this seems to be a repeat ?, I just don’t see my application. I wish to record from my PC’s HDMI video output. If I put the easycap HD video capture box after the video card, then into the mentioned 2 port HDMI splitter, with 32 gig flash drive, it seems this setup would work… ( I realize the splitter is not a guarantee fix) I also have a receiver with HDMI inputs & an HDMI output, so not sure if I could use this in place of the splitter since it grabs the HDMI source then pushes it out to my flat screen. Thanks for any help/advice in advance…

      Reply

      timman

      • Nov 7, 2016 - 7:37 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Timman,

        I’m not 100% sure what you’re trying to do, so forgive me if I misunderstood.
        You’re trying to record HDMI out from your PC on a HDMI capture box. Seems to me that PC -> Spliiter -> Capture Box, should work, if the splitter strips HDCP. Your receiver most likely will not strip HDCP though. You could have the 2nd output of the splitter go to the receiver though, to monitor the output rom your PC.

        Reply

        hans

        • Nov 7, 2016 - 6:57 PM - timman Comment Link

          Spot on! Thank you! Yea this is what I am trying to accomplish, without using software, since they always want you to upgrade, what ever version of capture software one may purchase + a fee. Just didn’t know about hdcp till now. Thanks again!

          Reply

          timman

    • Nov 13, 2016 - 2:50 PM - Mike Comment Link

      Trying to get video out of an X1 Comcast cable extender box that only has hdmi out to an older plasma monitor that does not have hdmi.  Understand the hdcp issues but looking for a source to make this work without spending a lot of $$$.  Anyone find a reliable fix?

      Reply

      Mike

      • Nov 22, 2016 - 5:05 PM - Michael Comment Link

        This seems simple if I understand it correctly.  You need to convert your HDMI signal into whatever signal the old monitor accepts.  Just get an adapter of the appropriate type.

        Reply

        Michael

      • Nov 23, 2016 - 9:57 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Mike might be right though that HDCP will cause issues …
        So I’d recommend a HDMI splitter that strips HDCP, and then from there have the adapter as suggested by Michael.
        Most of these adapters do not handle HDCP … unless one or the other Chinese company produces these haha – if you find one: please post it here!

        Reply

        hans

        • Nov 23, 2016 - 10:09 AM - Michael Comment Link

          Of course, that is correct.  However, IMHO, we first need to figure out the physical connection problem.  Any converter to address HDCP issue would come next, as finding an all-in-one solution is more difficult.  Further, we do not know if the old monitor can even handle HDMI, and old monitors do not usually do so.

          Reply

          Michael

    • Nov 13, 2016 - 9:51 PM - twincam Comment Link

      I have an Xfinity X1DVR connected to a Hauppauge PVR2 through a ViewHD (VHD-1X2MN3D) splitter just purchased from Amazon (Nov 2016).  At first I couldn’t get it to work, but then I remembered what was said in the “Cheap HDMI splitter section” of the article:

      ****”Another observation, by others, only with some other splitters, has been that only one of the two connect HDMI devices has to be HDCP compliant so that one of the connected devices already authenticates and “opens” by accident the digital video stream for the other output.+****

      As soon as I completed the connection from the splitter’s empty output, to my TV, all worked fine.  Earlier,I had gone into the X1 settings and set it’s output to 1080p60, which I think is a necessity for the PVR2 box to work.

      So in summary, my connections are:

      X1-HDMI-output>ViewHD-input>ViewHD-output2>PVR2-input  (PVR2-output stays empty and does not get any connection)

      and

      ViewHD-HDMI-output1>TV-HDMI-input  (This “bypass” connection to the TV was the key for my success)

      Reply

      twincam

    • Nov 22, 2016 - 9:30 AM - KJELL JANSSON Comment Link

      This working just fine for me HDMI 1.3 1×2 1 to 2 1080P 3D Splitter Amplifier 1 in 2 out for Dual Dispaly . 

      Reply

      KJELL JANSSON

      • Nov 22, 2016 - 3:18 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Kjell!

        Thanks for confirming – awesome and happy to hear it worked for you!
        Anyone wondering where this link is: here.

        Reply

        hans

    • Nov 30, 2016 - 9:20 AM - Joe Comment Link

      I tried to make my Elgato HD60 game capture work via HDMI with my PS3 using just a 4 x 1 HDMI switch and it worked perfectly! I didn’t have to buy any converter or HDMI splitter. Also, I don’t even need my Elgato software open or running to use my PS3 through it so that’s another reason that I don’t need any HDMI splitter.

      Reply

      Joe

      • Nov 30, 2016 - 3:25 PM - Michael Comment Link

        What brand and model switch did you use?

        Reply

        Michael

        • Nov 30, 2016 - 7:15 PM - Joe Comment Link

          Etekcity model number  025706344616. The manufacturer Etekcity is on eBay with the same exact member name “etekcity”. It’s a real bang for your buck for only $30. It supports 4K and 3D. It has PIP (picture in picture) option and even a wireless remote control (battery included).

          Reply

          Joe

        • Dec 1, 2016 - 8:38 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Thanks for reporting Joe! 

          Do you happen to have a link? When I looked for this seller, I noticed quite a lot of HDMI splitters and switches, some looking very familiar haha … but anyhoo: would you mind posting a link here?

          Reply

          hans

    • Dec 1, 2016 - 10:55 AM - Joe Comment Link

      I only found 13 results on eBay when searching for the model number which all show the exact same product. The lowest price on there is directly from the manufacturer.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etekcity-4K-x-2K-4-Port-High-Speed-HDMI-Switch-with-IR-Wireless-Remote-Control-/311750591375?hash=item4895c8838f:g:7aQAAOSwcUBYPUzc

      Reply

      Joe

    • Dec 3, 2016 - 10:38 PM - Robert Lucas Comment Link

      This web page has saved me an enormous amount of grief. In Australia, 11 years ago I bought a very expensive Pioneer Plasma HDTV (cost $6,100 in 2005). At the time, everyone said pay extra for a 5 year warranty, which I did. It is still in perfect condition with a great image. However, with advances in software & most of what I watch is satellite TV, suddenly a couple of years ago, I was unable to watch anything using a HDMI cable, because of HDCP blocking the signal. So for a couple of years, I have had to be content with SD TV. I contacted Pioneer, who no longer manufacture HDTVs, & they had no solution other than to go and buy a new TV. Unable to purchase the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter (Model VHD-1X2MN3D) here in Australia, I ordered it online through Amazon. Within a week it arrived (had to pay $10 for postage but worth every cent). Also had an incompatible electrical plug, but easily solved. Now I have perfect HD viewing on all my satellite channels (about 150, most of which are HD)…… so happy with the outcome & this smart little device!…. highly recommended :-)

      Reply

      Robert Lucas

      • Dec 4, 2016 - 12:00 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Robert,

        see, THAT is just awesome!
        This is exactly the reason why I started digging into this topic.
        Nice, and super cool to hear that this fixed you problem, and made your TV all good again. 

        Reply

        hans

        • Dec 24, 2016 - 2:37 PM - Tom Comment Link

          Hans, I have followed this with great interest. I do not quite understand however if the ViewHD 1X2 HDMI Splitter will do what I need. I have a Comcast cable box that I want to connect to a Sony BDVE580 HDMI in and then from HDMI out to a HDFuryII on a Pioneer TV. The cable box and the Blue Ray player both work separately on the HDFury. If I plug the cable box into the Sony input I get nothing and I assume it is about HDCP. May I think that the ViewHD will take the output of the cable box and give it a handshake so that it can then pass clear HDMI out on just one output with the other not connected?

          Hopefully, Tom

          Reply

          Tom

          • Dec 24, 2016 - 4:50 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Hi Tom,

            It took me a while to realize that the Sony BDVE580 is actually a home theatre set.
            So you have multiple HDMI devices connect to the Sony, and the HDMI out to your TV.

            Now certain home theatre devices is not the best when it comes to HDMI and HDCP.
            So this could very well be related to your problem.
            You could hookup a regular HDMI capable TV to the output of your Sony to see if your Sony is to blame or not.

            I’m not familiar with the HDFury2, but as far as I can see here, it could be loaded with specific HDCP stripping firmware.
            (any HDFury user who would like to chime in here?)

            It could also be that your Sony is to blame. In that case you’d want to feed the video signal (from the Comcast box for example) through one of these cheap HDMI splitters that strip HDCP, and have the output of the splitter go to your Sony. I’d suspect that the output of your Sony’s HDMI-out would then work with your HDFury.

            What also might work, is grabbing the output of the Sony -> Splitter -> TV.
            It will take a little experimenting to see what is causing the issue to begin with.
            The good news though is that these splitters are really cheap.

            Reply

            hans

    • Dec 3, 2016 - 11:06 PM - Ken Comment Link

      Hi,

      Thanks for this article!

      I got the BYTECC HMSP102K 1×2 HDMI 3D 4K2K Splitter at the local Fry’s. I tried the Bytecc with the AverMedia EzRecorder 130 and Sony Blu-ray BD-BX37 player (trying to copy a wedding video).

      Unfortunately, the Bytecc didn’t work. EzRecorder could see the wedding video, but complained that the copy protection wouldn’t let it record it.

      Guess I’ll try the SANOXY from Amazon.

      .

      Reply

      Ken

      • Dec 4, 2016 - 11:58 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Ken for reporting that the BYTECC did not work for you.
        Keeping my fingers crossed the SANOXY does work … 

        Reply

        hans

      • Dec 4, 2016 - 1:00 PM - trev Comment Link

        Hey Ken, What exactly was the way you set up your system? I’ve found that with some of the 1×2 splitters, if you do not hook up output 1 to an HDMI port on your TV that the encryption still passes and will keep you from recording. My LED HDTV has 5 inputs, one of which I use for the splitter’s first output with the 2nd output going to my recording device.

        Let us know as much info about how you have everything configured. Thank you…

        Reply

        trev

        • Dec 5, 2016 - 10:12 PM - Ken Comment Link

          Hi Trev,
          Thanks for replying!
          I had the BYTEC set up this way: Sony Blu-Ray player -> BYTECC -> Acer Monitor.
          If the BYTECC needed to be connect to a TV, then the setup wouldn’t be very convenient for me.

          Reply

          Ken

    • Dec 4, 2016 - 1:02 PM - trev Comment Link

      Again, Many thanks to Hans for setting up this blog!! I still follow every new post, even after posting my findings and solutions…

      Reply

      trev

    • Dec 5, 2016 - 1:34 AM - Jordan Comment Link

      I got a 4K Amazon Fire TV and a Seiki SE42UMS 4k TV.  The ad for the TV said HDCP v2.2 support, but it ended up not having it…  Was very frustrating.  I ended up taking a discount refund and kept the TV in hopes of getting it to work.

      Any suggestions?

      Reply

      Jordan

      • Dec 5, 2016 - 9:17 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Jordan,

        I don’t know about HDMI 2.2, since I do not have a device that requires this. Does the Amazon FireTV 4K need this?

        My 2 Android boxes that do 4K might require it, so in that case I’d say using a HDCP stripping splitter, or a HDCP stripping HDMI switch, might work for your scenario just fine.

        Reply

        hans

    • Dec 5, 2016 - 9:21 AM - Joe Comment Link

      Try using an Etekcity 4 x 1 HDMI switch. It supports 4k and 3D. I use it to connect my PS3 to Elgato game capture to 4k TV. It works flawlessly. According to known HDCP handshake via HDMI, it shouldn’t work but IT DOES.

      Reply

      Joe

      • Dec 7, 2016 - 1:47 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Thanks Joe!

        The more confirmations and new info we get the better! Thanks for posting! 

        Reply

        hans

    • Dec 12, 2016 - 6:42 AM - Tyler Comment Link

      So is there an updated hdcp fix firmware for the integral?

      Reply

      Tyler

      • Dec 12, 2016 - 8:15 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Tyler!

        Unfortunately, I do not own a HDFury Integral, hopefully one or the other HDFury owner here might be able to provide info for you.

        Reply

        hans

    • Dec 16, 2016 - 5:13 AM - Mokona Comment Link

      Portta PET0102 HDMI Splitter 2 Port 1×2 v1.3 work fine whit Sky Italy decoder and Atomos Ninja 2 recorder.

      Hi quality 1080p 25 fps. Second output like TV HD not necessary. HDCP is removed whit 1 input and 1 output.

      Reply

      Mokona

    • Dec 24, 2016 - 1:16 PM - Janne Korpela Comment Link

      Hello.

      Any idea if my problem can be related to hdcp? I have pretty old video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e. It works fine with ps4. However, with brand new wbox hd3 digital receiver (terestial) I’m able to see only black screen. Signal strenght and quality is perferct. Test and Program guide comes rhtough but as soon as start wathing actual tv Program, black screen!!! Just switching HDMI cable to by older digital receiver Topfield tf5100pvr the tv is just fine. I have tried with splitter 2 to 1 (as I would need ps4 and wbox) to my video projector. 

      Reply

      Janne Korpela

      • Dec 24, 2016 - 4:56 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Janne,

        This does sound like a HDCP problem. I could be wrong of course, but your Program Guide and such are visible, just as soon as you watch regular TV it produces a black screen.

        If you’d be using a splitter to remove the HDCP protection, then keep in mind that the splitter is designed to connect 1 video source (PS4 for example), which’ video signal then is repeated over two output (for example 2 TV’s).

        In your setup you’d probably want something like this:

            WBOX -> HDMI Splitter (as mentioned in this article) -> HDMI switch (input 1) -> Projector

          and

            PS4 -> HDMI switch (input 2)

        This way the HDCP is stripped from the WBOX, and you can use the HDMI switch to switch between the 2 video sources (PS4/WBOX).

        Reply

        hans

      • Jan 15, 2017 - 9:11 AM - Janne Comment Link

        Hi,

        just want to summarize my case here. You can see some discussion about the topic in this forum but as said, here is the summary about the initial problem and the solution!!! Yes, I got it working.

        So I have pretty old video project Panasonic pt-ae700e with 10m long HDMI cable. It has only one single HDMI input. I have 2 input devices PS4 and wbox hd3 digibox for tv programs. Naturally I needed HDMI switch so I purchased http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en. With that only wbox hd3 is working. PS4 gives black screen.

        So I purchased (based on the recommendation by Hans in this forum) Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9642JS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). With this I’m able to stream from digibox and PS4.

        wbox hd3 HDCP v.1.4a and PS4 2.x (I think).

        Thanks Hans!  

        Reply

        Janne

        • Jan 15, 2017 - 11:46 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          Thanks Janne for posting “the solution” here!
          Glad to hear things are working now! 

          Reply

          hans

    • Dec 25, 2016 - 4:24 PM - Janne Comment Link

      Hi Hans,

      thanks for motivation kick You gave via this forum! I have had the splitter for some weeks but get tired as it did not work. Now I tried it again, and maybe I did something differently. Now Wbox is working. But PS4 is not!

      I have Delock http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_61788/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en

      Maybe I need to try some other PS4 compatible. Some googling with “PS4 compatible hdmi splitter” gave for example

      https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS

      Reply

      Janne

      • Dec 26, 2016 - 9:29 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Janne,

        I do not have much experience with the PS4, but I would assume that any HDMI splitter that strips HDCP should do the trick.
        If you scroll up, one of the users uses a HDMI switch instead if a HDMI splitter to strip HDCP – I have not been able to test this though.

        I can imagine that there are 2 major groups for HDMI: Those from before HDMI 2.0, and those starting at HDMI 2.0 – maybe your PS4 prefers HDMI 2.0. (not sure if you have a PS4 or PS4Pro)

        Reply

        hans

    • Dec 27, 2016 - 3:15 AM - Janne Korpela Comment Link

      Hi,

      Thanks Hans. So I might have an issue around v2.0? Now with Delock splitter PS4 is out but Wbox is working…

      Options to go on:

      1) Firmware upgrade for video projector Panasonic pt-ae700e

      2) Find some HDMI switch that might work

      Reply

      Janne Korpela

      • Dec 27, 2016 - 8:09 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Janne,

        How exactly did you wire everything?
        My guess is you would need two HDCP strippers (either a HDMI splitter or HDMI switch). One for the PS4 and one for the WBox.

        Reply

        hans

        • Dec 27, 2016 - 8:37 AM - Janne Korpela Comment Link

          Hi,

          is it about hdcp versions?

          wbox is 1.4a. This is a fact. Needs stripper in order to work.

          PS4 probably is 2.0a (not a fact but PS4 supports HDR according to tech specs and HDR support is in 2.0a). PS4 does not work with stripper but without does.

          So I would need 2 strippers and probably they should be a different brand. Did I get it right?

          – Janne

          Reply

          Janne Korpela

          • Dec 27, 2016 - 9:05 AM - Janne Korpela Comment Link

            Current setup is (with Delock 2 to 1 splitter):

            WBOX -> Delock input 1,

            PS4 -> Delock input 2 

            from Delock 10m long HDMI to Projector input 

            I have only HDMI 1 input in video projector.

            Reg,

            Janne

            Reply

            Janne Korpela

            • Dec 27, 2016 - 3:03 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Hi Janne,

              Ehm, I’m a little confused … sorry …
              Did you mean “Delock High Speed HDMI Splitter 1 in > 2 out” – offering 1 input and 2 outputs,  
              or a switch “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output?

              The devices we talk about here are the “splitters” (1 input, 2 outputs). 
              The intend of these splitters is to have one video source, and two devices to display (TV/Projector/Recorder). Since it strips HDCP (with certain models), quite a lot of folks use this just as that: a stripper – meaning that only one input and one output is being used (the second output nit being used).

              The only device that switches between 2 inputs, that has been mentioned in the comments as it might strip HDCP, is the Etekcity 4K x 2K 4 Port High-Speed HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote Control.
              It seems to me that you’re looking for something like this (2 video sources on one projector)?

              Also note: I have not been able to find any confirmation that any of the “DeBlock” branded models will strip actually HDCP.

              hans

        • Dec 27, 2016 - 8:48 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

          If the PS4 works without stripper, then you would not need one …

          How is your setup right now?

          PS4 goes to HDMI-in of the Sony,
          WBox to HDCP stripper,
          HDCP stripper to Sony HDMI-in,
          and finally Sony HDMI-out to TV?

          Reply

          hans

          • Dec 28, 2016 - 8:08 AM - Janne Korpela Comment Link

            Hi,

            I need and I have the device “Delock High Speed HDMI Switch 2 in > 1 out” – offering 2 inputs and 1 output”.

            Well, at least seems, that the switch is helping with Wbox. Now it is working. But PS4 with the switch is not working (as it is when directly connected to projector).

            It is strange that PS4 is not working with the switch. Cna it be actually something else than HDCP issue? Like switch causing some noise or quality so that PS4 signal does not get through? As I said, wbox DHCP is version 1.4a and seems that PS4 is 2.x. I have 10m long HDMI cable between switch and projector.

            Probably I will try Etekcity.

            Reg,

            Janne

            Reply

            Janne Korpela

          • Dec 28, 2016 - 8:17 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Hi Janne,

            Unfortunately, I have no experience with switches like that.
            It’s even stranger that the PS4 just works without switch, but refuses to work with switch.

            Does the PS4 work with just the 10m HDMI cable? 10m is quite a long cable.
            Maybe you can run a quick test with a much shorter cable?

            You could be right about HDMI 1.2 and 2.x – maybe the switch is not HDMI 2.x compatible.
            Seems you’d might have to test another HDMI switch, this EtekCity switch claims to be PS4 compatible, and at least one user here confirmed it to strip HDCP. If that switch does not strip HDCP, then you could still add one of the HDMI splitters mentioned here to strip HDCP for the WBox.

            Reply

            hans

            • Dec 28, 2016 - 8:22 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

              Hi Janne,

              I was just digging through the comments at Amazon and found that 2 users complained about HDCP issues with the EtekCity – and others seem to have zero issue with HDCP. Since one of the users here confirmed this EtekCity at eBay to work, which looks identical, you might want to get that one. Then again; with Amazon you’d be able to return the product in case it doesn’t work … but if you’re not in the US, then that might still be problematic. (this is the same product with Amazon in Germany)

              hans

    • Dec 28, 2016 - 1:26 PM - Ripley Comment Link

      Wish me luck!
      I have no intent on recording but I want to use my second monitor/capture card as a pass-through so I can watch my chrome cast or apple tv while playing some grindy games. I’ve tried just running Netflix at the same time but it causes lag as it’s taking some bandwidth from my PC and running iTunes does me no good because my movies are saved onto the same hard drive and that destroys my frames per second.  

      Reply

      Ripley

      • Dec 28, 2016 - 1:55 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Ripley,

        Let us know when you get it to work and what splitter (link) you’ve used! 

        Reply

        hans

    • Jan 1, 2017 - 6:40 PM - Milton Waddams Comment Link

      I purchased the Portta PET0102 from Amazon recently, and I can report that this device is fully HDCP-compliant.

      Both output ports are passing HDCP.

      For reference, the board is marked ‘HZ’ and ’16 15′ on the top side, and ‘213 PCB v2.0’ on the bottom side, and uses the Lontium LT86102SX chip

      Reply

      Milton Waddams

      • Jan 2, 2017 - 9:22 AM - hans - Author: Comment Link

        Hi Milton!

        Good to hear this worked for you and thank you so much for the very detailed confirmation and confirmation on the Portta PET0102

        Reply

        hans

        • Jan 2, 2017 - 12:16 PM - Milton Waddams Comment Link

          Sorry, this was not a confirmation that the Portta PET0102 strips HDCP.  Quite the opposite.

          Reply

          Milton Waddams

          • Jan 2, 2017 - 2:39 PM - Michael Comment Link

            Milton, I believe you’ve gotten the wrong idea about this subject.  It is not about the many products that conform to the HDCP restrictions, but about finding the few that allow full signal to pass thru without restriction.

            Reply

            Michael

          • Jan 2, 2017 - 4:33 PM - hans - Author: Comment Link

            Sorry for misunderstanding – it’s all in the fine details …
            I assumed you meant that it did strip HDCP, my bad.

            Well, as Michael said: we’re here trying to find units that do strip HDCP …
            In that light: your information is still very good!  
            Knowing that a particular model does NOT strip HDCP. 

            Reply

            hans

    • Jan 21, 2017 - 10:40 PM - Dave Comment Link

      I bought the Portta PET0102 new off Amazon from seller


      JOBSTEVETTT
      on Dec 25th 2015 and it worked great to strip HDCP. I liked it enough I bought 2 more Jan 15, but this time via Amazon Warehouse deals, and they did not work. I order again from Amazon Jan 18, from JOBSTEVETTT and that one strips HDCP. It appears there are 2 different hardware versions of the Portta. I opened them both up and it appears that the one that DOES strip has 2 chips in it with silver aluminum heat sinks on both. The one that does strip only has 1 chip and no heat sink. So watch out and I would not buy any Warehouse deals for this item.

      Reply

      Dave

    • Jan 21, 2017 - 10:44 PM - Dave Comment Link

      Also, when plugged into my PC the Portta that DOES strip showed up named “Silicon Image”. The splitter that did NOT strip showed up as “LONTIUM”

      Reply

      Dave



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