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This is a continuation of my question that was posted in the LED strip effects for Neopixel and Fastled page here . I am posting on the forum, since there was just way too much code I had posted on the other page. The issue was that I was having random button errors like pausing the effect or not switching properly (and was actually related to the All Effects in One sketch page), so I definitely apologize for the confusing places to post :)
In response to Hans' helpful suggestions, I seem to have no issues changing effects now. Hans had suggested some code to include in the setup, including a short 100 millisecond delay before attaching the interrupt for the button. As well, he had included a link to information on modifying the button by using a pull up resistor. Since I don't seem to have any issues, I decided not to add it (also I'd rather not add a breadboard to my compact Arduino enclosure), but I it was good to learn about it. I might be using the internal 20K pull up resistor that was built in to the Arduino Uno, but I could be wrong about that.
Anyway, for anyone interested, I have posted my sketch here on pastebin. About half the effects were removed. Might be helpful to others.
As for the pullup; yes there is indeed an internal resistor, which you may be using.
Using a breadboard is something I always try to avoid as well - but they are handy when doing some testing, but not so great for the "final product" haha 😉 . The less external components, the better 😋
As for the pullup; yes there is indeed an internal resistor, which you may be using.
Using a breadboard is something I always try to avoid as well - but they are handy when doing some testing, but not so great for the "final product" haha 😉 . The less external components, the better 😋
Yes I agree; breadboards are not product friendly :) Too bad there aren't more tutorials with 3D printed cases for buttons, etc.
Too bad there aren't more tutorials with 3D printed cases for buttons, etc.
I've been tinkering with several 3D printers as early as 2012, and in the end gave up playing with them around 2015. I'd be more than happy to write more about using 3D printers - I still love the idea to design something on my computer and have it materialize in plastic 😊
After buying and selling 3 printers, I have become quite weary about buying a new one. I do keep an eye on the market for 3D printers, but I still feel that most aren't really suitable for the general public, and promise more than they can deliver. If you have any experience with a particular brand/model, then please let us know ...
Too bad there aren't more tutorials with 3D printed cases for buttons, etc.
I've been tinkering with several 3D printers as early as 2012, and in the end gave up playing with them around 2015. I'd be more than happy to write more about using 3D printers - I still love the idea to design something on my computer and have it materialize in plastic 😊
After buying and selling 3 printers, I have become quite weary about buying a new one. I do keep an eye on the market for 3D printers, but I still feel that most aren't really suitable for the general public, and promise more than they can deliver. If you have any experience with a particular brand/model, then please let us know ...
Breadboards are only fun for experiments indeed 😋
Yes actually my first printer was a used Ultimaker 2, which I believe came out around 2012. It was pretty horrible; constant clogged filament, stepper motor grinding, annoying bowden tube removal (any time you wanted to change or clean something). I was quite surprised considering the extreme expense of those printers and the reputation of Ultimaker. However, printers have come a ways since then.
The technology is still a lot I think for the general public, but I believe printers are consistently improving. I bought a Prusa i3 MK3 from the Czech Republic where they are made (hardly any retailers carry them in Canada) and it was expensive after duties and conversion from American to Canadian dollars but the difference was night and day compared to my old Ultimaker. I haven't had a single problem with filament jams, except one grind. Their print beds are heated and self-level so you never have to worry about manually ensuring the nozzle is aligned with the bed, or having a print not stick to the bed. They are also extremely quiet; like you wouldn't even know it's on if you weren't watching it.
I think for the price, Prusas are comparatively cheaper than a lot of printers and much better for customer service and quality than the knockoff versions from China. They are very tedious to put together (hundreds of small screws and delicate 3d printed parts) but are cheaper than the ready-made ones. P.S. I promise I do not get paid for this recommendation; I'm just really impressed with them :)
I think there's a lot of room for experimentation with Fastled/Neopixels, micro controllers and 3d printing. For example, many CAD files for enclosures for Arduinos exist, but I had to modify them to add a toggle switch and on/off latching switch, which wasn't easy. It might be interesting to start a sticky thread or article on this site for the purpose of developing 3D printed enclosures/projects with Arduinos and the Fastled/Neopixels libraries. Just a thought!
3D Printer: I'm afraid we're going a little off-topic here 😊 ... would you mind continuing the conversation in this forum topic - I am very interested in your findings.
3D Printing and Arduino/RPI projects pretty much go hand in hand 😋
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